Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
I have an early L7 (serial 184) that does not have chimneys and uses 3-500Z's. If you don't block the airflow in the rear, the fan doesn't hit high gear often. I replaced the caps in the PS and placed a slow turning fan on top of it. That should go a long way toward component lifetime. Dennis AE6COn 1/11/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: MyL-7 came with chimneys and the seller made a big deal about telling me that they were included. After looking things over, I realized that they were not helping anything due to the fan placement and the heat from the amp dripped appreciably when I removed them. They were almost touching eachother, too. I am really surprised that I didn't melt the solder outof the pins.Guess he didn't use it much and I didn't either before removing the chimneys. At least I have a pair of spares in case I get butterfingers when playing with the L-4B. 73, John, W4AWM-Original Message-From: Ron Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netSent: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 23:03:01 -0500Subject: RE: [drakelist] Drakes wanted Ron Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang --Are you sure the L7 had chimney's for the 3-500Z. I have a later versionwhich did not have then because the rear mounted fan blew air directly across the tubes.I Know the L4B had chimneys, but the L7,???Also, check out my TR7A article. I have a later release on my website withlots of updated information. I'm not sure if the other sites having my article have the latest version. Here is the link.http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Comparison_Article/TR7_Idenity -01.htm73, Ron / WB4HFN-Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:59 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netSubject: Re: [drakelist] Drakes wantedHi Richard,One thing you need to watch for when purchasing a TR-7A is that it is notactually a TR-7 in disguise. For a period of time, Drake sold spare face plates for the A model to anyone who wanted one. Many folks bought one toupgrade their TR-7. Other than the face plate, there is no outwarddifference in appearence between the 2 models on the front panel. There is a small difference on the rear panel and several items were added insidewhich were accessories on the A model. Here is a link to WB4HFNs page inthe Drake museum which will explain all this in detail: Click here: Page 1 http://www.dproducts.be/DRAKE_MUSEUM/page_1.htm Depending on where you get your TR-7A and the physical and electrical coindition it is in, any additional filters and the PS-7 power supply, Youcan xpect to pay anywhere from $800.00 up. Obviously, a rig that is notpristine will sell for somewhat less, but frankly, a TR-7 is a much better deal, especually if it has the NB-7 noise blanker installed. That and the AMfilter were the most expensive accessories.The L-7 is a fine little amplifier, but be sure to get one that has theoriginal power supply if you can. The amps were shipped with either 3-400 or 3-500Z tubes. If you can find one with 3-500, they are the betterchoice, but I would not turn down one with 3-400s at a slightly lower price.If it has been well cared for, the amp is pretty bullet proof, as long as the finals are in good shape. The original caps in the PS should be replacedat some point for safety and the fusable resistor power rating shouldincreased. A replacement capacitor kit may be available from The Heathkit Shop. Be sure that the glass chimneys are present. Here again, condition ofthe rig and tubes go a long way in determining the price, but a bottom lineof 800 and up is reasonable.If you find one and have it shipped, be prepared for sticker shock because the PS weighs a ton! Have the seller remove the finals and chimneys andpackage them separately and do not have them shipped in the same box withthe amp.The tubes should preferably be shipped in a vertical configuration. Hope this helps.73, John, W4AWM--Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netUnsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of messageZerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net--
Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 11 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The tubes should preferably be shipped in a vertical configuration. Be prepared to tap the tubes on their side to straighten the anode. Every 3-400Z I've bought and had shipped via brown trucks wound up getting bent. When you go to straighten them out again you'll realize how much abuse those packages take during their shipment. Hint: use the post office priority mail instead. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Drakes wanted
Richard Holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I have a friend not on this list whose current wish list includes the following: Drake TR7A Drake L7 What price range may he expect for these rigs and does anyone have one for sale? Thanks 73 Richard VE4QK -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
Hi Richard, One thing you need to watch for when purchasing a TR-7A is that it is not actually a TR-7 in disguise. For a period of time, Drake sold spare face plates for the A model to anyone who wanted one. Many folks bought one to "upgrade" their TR-7. Other than the face plate, there is no outward difference in appearence between the 2 models on the front panel. There is a small difference on the rear panel and several items were added inside which were accessories on the A model. Here is a link to WB4HFNs page in the Drake museum which will explain all this in detail: Click here: Page 1 Depending on where you get your TR-7A and the physical and electrical coindition it is in, any additional filters and the PS-7 power supply, You can xpect to pay anywhere from $800.00 up. Obviously, a rig that is not pristine will sell for somewhat less, but frankly, a TR-7 is a much better deal, especually if it has the NB-7 noise blanker installed. That and the AM filter were the most expensive accessories. The L-7 is a fine little amplifier, but be sure to get one that has the original power supply if you can. The amps were shipped with either 3-400 or 3-500Z tubes. If you can find one with 3-500, they are the better choice, but I would not turn down one with 3-400s at a slightly lower price. If it has been well cared for, the amp is pretty bullet proof, as long as the finals are in good shape. The original caps in the PS should be replaced at some point for safety and the fusable resistor power rating should increased. A replacement capacitor kit may be available from The Heathkit Shop. Be sure that the glass chimneys are present. Here again, condition of the rig and tubes go a long way in determining the price, but a bottom line of 800 and up is reasonable. If you find one and have it shipped, be prepared for sticker shock because the PS weighs a ton! Have the seller remove the finals and chimneys and package them separately and do not have them shipped in the same box with the amp. The tubes should preferably be shipped in a vertical configuration. Hope this helps. 73, John, W4AWM
Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
This is the first Id heard of the L7 ever comingwith 3-400z tubes?I knew the L4 did, but thought L4-B's and above were 3-500z? Mark W0NCL
[drakelist] Drakes wanted
Hi Mark, I got that info right off the description page in my L-7 manual. I wasn't aware of it either until I saw that. Both my L-4M and L-7 came with 3-500Zs, but IA know that the original L-4Bs were shipped with the 400s. 73, John
RE: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
Ron Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Are you sure the L7 had chimney's for the 3-500Z. I have a later version which did not have then because the rear mounted fan blew air directly across the tubes.I Know the L4B had chimneys, but the L7,??? Also, check out my TR7A article. I have a later release on my website with lots of updated information. I'm not sure if the other sites having my article have the latest version. Here is the link. http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Comparison_Article/TR7_Idenity -01.htm 73, Ron / WB4HFN -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:59 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted Hi Richard, One thing you need to watch for when purchasing a TR-7A is that it is not actually a TR-7 in disguise. For a period of time, Drake sold spare face plates for the A model to anyone who wanted one. Many folks bought one to upgrade their TR-7. Other than the face plate, there is no outward difference in appearence between the 2 models on the front panel. There is a small difference on the rear panel and several items were added inside which were accessories on the A model. Here is a link to WB4HFNs page in the Drake museum which will explain all this in detail: Click here: Page 1 http://www.dproducts.be/DRAKE_MUSEUM/page_1.htm Depending on where you get your TR-7A and the physical and electrical coindition it is in, any additional filters and the PS-7 power supply, You can xpect to pay anywhere from $800.00 up. Obviously, a rig that is not pristine will sell for somewhat less, but frankly, a TR-7 is a much better deal, especually if it has the NB-7 noise blanker installed. That and the AM filter were the most expensive accessories. The L-7 is a fine little amplifier, but be sure to get one that has the original power supply if you can. The amps were shipped with either 3-400 or 3-500Z tubes. If you can find one with 3-500, they are the better choice, but I would not turn down one with 3-400s at a slightly lower price. If it has been well cared for, the amp is pretty bullet proof, as long as the finals are in good shape. The original caps in the PS should be replaced at some point for safety and the fusable resistor power rating should increased. A replacement capacitor kit may be available from The Heathkit Shop. Be sure that the glass chimneys are present. Here again, condition of the rig and tubes go a long way in determining the price, but a bottom line of 800 and up is reasonable. If you find one and have it shipped, be prepared for sticker shock because the PS weighs a ton! Have the seller remove the finals and chimneys and package them separately and do not have them shipped in the same box with the amp. The tubes should preferably be shipped in a vertical configuration. Hope this helps. 73, John, W4AWM -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
I use to think the L4's had the better tube cooling, but all it is is quieter air flow. Not really adequate actually. The L7's dropped the pressurized concept and went with the SB220 method. It just blew the air across the naked tubes. It might be louder but its simpler and more effective. I have the L4B, wouldn't mind having a L7 either. This has been a good thread.
Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
MyL-7 came with chimneys and the seller made a big deal about telling me that they were included. After looking things over, I realized that they were not helping anything due to the fan placement and the heat from the amp dripped appreciably when I removed them. They were almost touching eachother, too. I am really surprised that I didn't melt the solder outof the pins.Guess he didn't use it much and I didn't either before removing the chimneys. At least I have a pair of spares in case I get butterfingers when playing with the L-4B. 73, John, W4AWM-Original Message-From: Ron Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netSent: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 23:03:01 -0500Subject: RE: [drakelist] Drakes wanted "Ron Baker" [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Are you sure the L7 had chimney's for the 3-500Z. I have a later version which did not have then because the rear mounted fan blew air directly across the tubes.I Know the L4B had chimneys, but the L7,??? Also, check out my TR7A article. I have a later release on my website with lots of updated information. I'm not sure if the other sites having my article have the latest version. Here is the link. http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Comparison_Article/TR7_Idenity -01.htm 73, Ron / WB4HFN -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:59 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted Hi Richard, One thing you need to watch for when purchasing a TR-7A is that it is not actually a TR-7 in disguise. For a period of time, Drake sold spare face plates for the A model to anyone who wanted one. Many folks bought one to "upgrade" their TR-7. Other than the face plate, there is no outward difference in appearence between the 2 models on the front panel. There is a small difference on the rear panel and several items were added inside which were accessories on the A model. Here is a link to WB4HFNs page in the Drake museum which will explain all this in detail: Click here: Page 1 http://www.dproducts.be/DRAKE_MUSEUM/page_1.htm Depending on where you get your TR-7A and the physical and electrical coindition it is in, any additional filters and the PS-7 power supply, You can xpect to pay anywhere from $800.00 up. Obviously, a rig that is not pristine will sell for somewhat less, but frankly, a TR-7 is a much better deal, especually if it has the NB-7 noise blanker installed. That and the AM filter were the most expensive accessories. The L-7 is a fine little amplifier, but be sure to get one that has the original power supply if you can. The amps were shipped with either 3-400 or 3-500Z tubes. If you can find one with 3-500, they are the better choice, but I would not turn down one with 3-400s at a slightly lower price. If it has been well cared for, the amp is pretty bullet proof, as long as the finals are in good shape. The original caps in the PS should be replaced at some point for safety and the fusable resistor power rating should increased. A replacement capacitor kit may be available from The Heathkit Shop. Be sure that the glass chimneys are present. Here again, condition of the rig and tubes go a long way in determining the price, but a bottom line of 800 and up is reasonable. If you find one and have it shipped, be prepared for sticker shock because the PS weighs a ton! Have the seller remove the finals and chimneys and package them separately and do not have them shipped in the same box with the amp. The tubes should preferably be shipped in a vertical configuration. Hope this helps. 73, John, W4AWM -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
