Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 sensitivity

2004-07-30 Thread Eric Ward
Try swapping the rubber grips.  My craftsmanship left the wire on the dit
side is a little bumpy, even after squishing it with needle nose pliers-it
sends continuous dits with one of the rubber sleeves, but not the other.
Also, make sure the spring steel levers are aligned so that they fit into
the cavities molded into the rubber grips-if they are out of alignment even
a little, they will be trapped against the contact wire-I had this momentary
problem when I first assembled mine.  (Also, at the risk of telling you
something you don't need to know, check that your dit wire is not
accidentally grounding to the aluminum bracket somewhere.)

73

Eric

N0HHS 



I just got done with my KX1 construction, including the KXPD1 paddles.
Another very nice setup from Elecraft! My question is how do I make the
paddles less sensitive to touch. I find that the left side (dits) is very
sensitive, and at one point, it started sending dits all on its own. I have
squeezed the wires inside down as close to the PC board as they can be, but
that didn't help. The right side of the paddle is working fine. Anyone have
any other suggestions??
 
Thanks, Dan W1RDB

 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft KXPD1 paddle -- minor upgrade

2004-07-30 Thread Jay Blass
Hi Wayne,

I've been kicking around several designs to mount a KXPD1 paddle to the right 
side panel of a K1, and later, a K2. 

Before I get too sporting, are you thinking of some sort of mount that would 
allow the paddle to be affixed to your other rigs?

Thanks,

Jay
N5ACM
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[Elecraft] The Solder is flowing ... KX1 #631 is coming to life soon!

2004-07-30 Thread Jeff Hetherington
Hello Everybody!

KX1 #631 is starting to be built.  Yesterday we actually got out the
soldering iron and accessories and started melting solder!  My first
Elecraft kit experience, and Wendy's first soldering experience.  Should be
fun.

Hopefully no problems will be forthcoming and we can make the announcement
soon that #631 is on the air!

73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
Wendy - VE3TKS
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[Elecraft] KXPD1 Sensitivity

2004-07-30 Thread Eberhart, Russell
...My question is how do I make the paddles less sensitive to touch. I
find that the left side (dits) is very sensitive, and at one point, it
started sending dits all on its own. I have squeezed the wires inside
down as close to the PC board as they can be, but that didn't help. The
right side of the paddle is working fine. Anyone have any other
suggestions??

Thanks, Dan W1RDB

One possible problem is that one or both of the rubber covers is/are
installed incorrectly.  The raised portion of each cover must be on the
outside of each paddle.

Russ, N9IV
KX1 #742
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[Elecraft] AGC and AF gain

2004-07-30 Thread Greg Storms
Hi Elecrafters:

I turned the AGC off the other day and was suprised to note a very noticible 
increase in audio volume.  I had to back the AF gain down by a quarter to  a 
third turn to get it at a reasonable listening level.  I tried this on several 
signals and it was the same.  It has always seemed that my K-2 has been weak in 
audio volume. Doesn't seem like this should be so.  Any thoughts?  Recheck the 
AGC threashold setting?

Thanks in advance,

Greg, KD7SRC, K-2 #3434
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[Elecraft] XV144

2004-07-30 Thread David Pratt
I have a few queries on the XV144 transverter and would appreciate any 
comments from others who have built this fine addition to the Elecraft 
range.


1. The XV information sheet states that the maximum power of the XV50 is 
20W and that of the XV144 and XV222 is 25W. The manual does not mention 
25W. Has the XV144 and XV222 rating been increased since the manual was 
printed?


2. I notice that the top cover that came with my kit is made of steel 
rather than aluminum like the rest of the case. Is there any reason why 
aluminum is not used for the trop cover? I should have thought it to be 
undesirable to use dissimilar metals for the cabinet construction.


3. What is the recommended frequency coverage of the XV144 when it is 
used with the K2?  The frequency range of the K2 on 10m is given as 28.0 
to 28.8MHz in the specification. Does this mean that the XV144 should 
only be used on 144.0 to 144.8MHz? The XV144 manual suggests alignment 
be done at 145MHz, yet perhaps this is outside the recommended range 
when it is used with the K2.


4. What is the recommended warm-up time of the XVOVN crystal oven? I 
presume there will significant of the XV144 while the oven attains the 
75C operating temperature?


5. With the 28MHz band pass filter aligned as in the manual, I notice 
that the cores of L15 and L16 are protruding out of the tops of the 
cans. Do others find this? Perhaps it is a tolerance thing.


Many thanks; all comments will be gratefully received.

73 de David G4DMP
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Re: [Elecraft] KI6WX...Backpacking w/KX1

2004-07-30 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Lynn:

At 12:19 PM 7/30/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Anybody got a status report on KI6WX backpacking in Wyoming mountatins
with his KX1.


Earlier today... maybe it was last night, I forget, I posted that John's 
OUT of the WY mountains (BAD WX) and en route home via automobile. Safe and 
sound.


The weather was just too horrible for him to get much done, I think.

I suspect we'll hear from directly John within the next few days.

73,

Tom   N0SS

NEWS FLASH - JUST received this e-mail from John's XYL...

  Hi all, I spoke to John last night.

  He passed through Farson, Wyoming and headed back after he does
  some vacationing along the route.

  I understood correctly that John will not be transmitting on
  the radio now.

  He appreciates everyone who monitored his locations.

  Yes, the weather was bad! He could hear you all but you
  couldn't hear him.

  He'll have more of the technical details for you later. Thanks
  for monitoring him.

  Mary



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[Elecraft] power connector size?

2004-07-30 Thread Lloyd Lachow
  What is the spec for the plug for the DC jack on a
KX1 (K1, etc.)?

  TIA

   LL




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[Elecraft] Noise Blanker for K2

2004-07-30 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD

Hi,

I just finished another module for my K2, the Noise Blanker. I added a 
few photos in my website, for those who wish to see what it looks like.


http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum30.html

73

===
Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Elecraft K2 #4130

Amateur Radio Club of Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

Web site: http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard
===
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Re: [Elecraft] power connector size?

2004-07-30 Thread Tom Hammond

Lloyd:

From a pretty old posting:

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:19:20 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Tom Hammond NØSS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Coaxial Power Connector - More info
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Rod Cerkoney, N0RC, wrote:

The plug is 5.0/2.1mm OD/ID respectively. RS has them, but I don't
have the P/N. In store packages have size marked on them. The part
Elecraft supplies is from Switchcraft and is available from Digikey
part number: SC-1052-ND (I think the Switchcraft item is of superior
quality).

The Connector in the radio (probably Switchcraft) is Digikey item:
SC1155-ND

Digikey online page for these items is:

http://info.digikey.com/T013/V5/177.pdf


Note: The URL above no longer works!


More info:

   Switchcraft #S760, Mouser part #502-S-760

   Technical specs:  ID  .080 (2.03mm), assume 2.1mm
 OD  .218 (5.5mm) See NOTE below
  Barrel Length  .375 (9.52mm)

Note: Switchcraft does not list a 5.1mm (0.20) diameter
  barrel coaxial power connector. It appears that ALL
  of their coaxial pwr connectors are 5.5mm (0.218)
  in diameter.

  I used a caliper to confirm the outside diameter of
  the barrel of the plug I'd received from Elecraft.
  0.218 (5.5mm) on the button.

For more info on this Switchcraft connector, go to:

   http://www.switchcraft.com/

and search for S760. The plug dimension specs are at the bottom of this 
page, and if you click on selection #2 (760/S760) from the list at the top 
of the page, you can download a single-page PDF which shows to detailed 
engineering drawing of the plug, with references which will match to the 
specs on the page noted above.


I believe this to be the power plug which we are using on our K2s and K1s. 
They ARE better quality than the plugs available from R/S, if for no other 
reason that the fact that the center cunductor of the Switchcraft plugs is 
slightly recessed within the insulator, thus making it more difficult to 
accidently short the positive lead to ground.


The apparent R/S equivalent (at least with regard to dimensions, NOT 
quality) is their 274-1569 (5.5 x 2.1 mm).


The apparent DigiKey part #'s are:

 Plug SC-1052-ND (as Ron has stated)
   Socket SC-1153-ND (the SC-1155-ND is SMT)

NOTE that the 1998 DigiKey catalog from which I got this info had the 
Switchcraft part #'s for the plug and jack SWITCHED. However the DigiKey 
web site (www.digikey.com) had everything listed correctly.


Users are urged to RETAIN this information for the future when you will 
surely need it. And WILL eventually need it... almost guaranteed!


Thanks Ron,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] Antenna questions

2004-07-30 Thread Francis Belliveau
I am currently evaluating a trap antenna design that is described in the
19th edition of the ARRL Antenna book.  There are two different dipoles
represented there: one using a 60pF capacitor and twin-lead feed, the other
using a 100pF capacitor and coax feed.

The described advantage of both of these antennas is that they operate on
80, 40, 20, 15 and 10 meter bands to some degree.  I have modeled these with
little success using EZNEC.  I expect that this is partly because I do not
know how to add in the resistive component of the trap design.  Please also
note that I only have the DOS version of EZNEC.

Any way my reason for all this is that I would like to build a portable
vertical antenna for field use that has the touted characteristics.
Obviously I would need to provide and attachment point for guy wires as well
as an appropriate number of radials.  My expectation is that the radials
would be mounted about 2 feet above rock at the top of a mountain (East
coast definition) where there is little or no support for a horizontal
antenna.

My question is:  Does anybody know of a commercially available antenna that
might serve?

I have looked at a couple and find that they are very expensive ($100) and
very short (30 feet tall).

Alternate question is: Does anybody know why EZNEC does not seem to confirm
that this design works well on all 5 bands?

Fran


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Re: [Elecraft] Receive Problems

2004-07-30 Thread Tom Arntzen
I had a small solder short on this plugg on the mainbord near the filter
area that gave this symptoms.
I had to magnify to se it. Could not see it with eyes only.
Tom LA1PHA

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Gregg Lengling [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 2:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Receive Problems


 Gregg,

 I would suggest looking carefully in the IF filter area.  You found one
bad
 solder joint, so another one is quite likely.  The last one I worked on
with
 similar problems had a bad solder joint on the SSB board at one of the 3
pin
 headers - which reduced the signal getting to the IF amplifier a LOT.
 Remove the SSB board and put jumpers into the 3 pin headers (jumper from
 pins 1 to 3) and see if it comes to life again - if so, the problem is on
 the SSB board.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 - Original Message - 

 I've got a Rev A K2 (#529) that a friend brought to me to upgrade to all
the
 Rev B mods ect.  Before I did the mods I fixed some problemslow audio
 out (bad solder joint) and other minor probs.  So before I started the
 upgrades it was working.

 Here's the problem now.  The radio works great except for the following on
 receive:
 Very low recovered audio and low S meter reading
 I'm looking in the preamp/mixer and receive VFO areaI found on
 the VFO (Q18) the original owner put another 1N4148 on the bottom of the
 board across D13 in the opposite polaritywas this something I didn't
 hear about (with or without I still have the problem).  I've checked the
 voltages on the VFO and Buffer and the preamp and everything looks good.
So
 does anyone have some ideas.



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[Elecraft] For Trade FT-897D for K2/100

2004-07-30 Thread NZ8J
Looking to trade a less than one week old Yaesu FT-897D for a late serial
number K2/100. The FT-897 is as new with all the stuff that came with it
plus the optional 500hz cw filter already installed. If you have one you'd
like to trade please send details of what you have.  I might consider a very
late K2 (#4060 or higher) with all options. I'll be away from email until
Sunday afternoon, but I'll answer all responses when I return.
Thanks
Tim
NZ8J


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[Elecraft] 2004 TAC Sprint Results

2004-07-30 Thread Ron Polityka
Hello,

 Here are the results of the 2004 TAC Sprint. We had a total of 29 entries.
This is almost double the entries from last year. So we do plan on having
the sprint next year. We might change the month that we hold the contest to
promote activity in the sprint. If you have a month you think the sprint
should be changed too, please let me know via a direct e-mail.

 Check out www.n3epa.org for the 2004 TAC results and soap box.

72
Ron de N3EPA
EPA QRP Club El Presidente'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.n3epa.org


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Re: [Elecraft] AGC and AF gain

2004-07-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Greg,

Yes, it certainly seems like your AGC threshold could stand to be
re-adjusted.  The recommended 3.8 volts will be close, but is not any magic
number - the proper setting will vary from one K2 to another.  I have seen
good results with voltages as low as 3.6 volts, but none higher than 3.8
volts.  If you have the XG1, you can also set the S-9 point on the S-meter
at the 50 uV level (with the pre-amp on) by changing the AGC Threshold, S-HI
and S-LO - it usually takes me about 3 times 'round the horn' to get
everything lined up, so plan on some trial and error.  I find that simply
adjusting S-HI to set the S-9 level often limits the full range of the
S-meter.

Before you get started, be certain that you are evaluatiing the AGC on/AGC
off difference on a band that is quiet - remember that an S-3 noise level
will create some AGC action just from the noise.

If you are working on a noisy band, the best 'cure' is to simply turn the RF
gain down until the noise no longer activates the receiver AGC.  (Reducing
the RF Gain in the K2 does the same thing as reducing the AGC Threshold).
The AGC will still work on signals stronger than the noise, even though the
S-meter will not be as 'lively'.

73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 

I turned the AGC off the other day and was suprised to note a very noticible
increase in audio volume.  I had to back the AF gain down by a quarter to  a
third turn to get it at a reasonable listening level.  I tried this on
several signals and it was the same.  It has always seemed that my K-2 has
been weak in audio volume. Doesn't seem like this should be so.  Any
thoughts?  Recheck the AGC threashold setting?



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[Elecraft] K1 Woes

2004-07-30 Thread Rich Lim
Hey guys, I'm helping a friend Al, W9AFR with his K1 and were have run into a 
problem. Here is the deal. We have built upto and including the RF board Part I 
with no problems. The first set of resistance checks checked out ok until we 
installed the electrolytic caps c33, c39, c35, c54, c31, c67, c9, c10 and c53, 
as well as U5 (voltage regulator) and jumper on RFC8.
 
Now when we do the DC voltage checks we have a short to ground on the power 
jack. We have double checked the polarity of the caps and they are correct. 
Furthermore re-doing the resistance checks on p29, we now get P1 pin 16 shorted 
to ground and U4 pin 7 at 10 ohm. 
 
Would some Elecraft Guru out there give us some advice as where to look? I 
think that one of the caps is bad, but don't know which one to start replacing. 
I also wonder if D16 is bad too. If anyone can give us some advice, I'd sure 
appreciate it. Thanks alot guys!!
 
Rich
KQ9L
---
K1 #1669, K2 #3232, KX1 #21
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Re: [Elecraft] 2004 TAC Sprint Results

2004-07-30 Thread Ron Polityka
Link is repaired.

72
Ron de N3EPA
EPA QRP Club El Presidente'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.n3epa.org 

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[Elecraft] K2/100 ALC or Power problem

2004-07-30 Thread J F
Hello All,
I've had a problem crop up that has me scratching my
head. 
I have K2 #3311 with the KPA100 and the KAT100. It's
possible this problem has existed for a while, but
I've just noticed it when trying to rebuild my
antennas after a microburst attack. I can set the
power level, according to the front panel from .1 Watt
to 110 Watts, the relay clicks in at 10 Watts and the
indicator on the ATU shows the change from high to
low. Unfortunately, the low level is about 20 Watts
only on a power meter, and high power is only 110
watts, no adjustment. I'm not getting a Hi Current
message as well. Any suggestions where to look? I've
checked for burnt components, open R50, I don't appear
to be getting any KPA100 bias voltage. The Cal Cur is
set at 2.00 (did try adjusting it to 3.50 Amps, per
the KPA manual). It had been operating correctly, but
have only operated sporadically for the past few
months.

Thanks in advance,
Julius
n2wn 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Woes

2004-07-30 Thread Jim Wiley

Rich -

If you have a power short, there are various ways to fix it.  First, 
look for solder bridges around components, IC's, etc.  If you don't find 
any solder splashes or bridges, you may have a bad part.  Now, how do 
you find it?  If the set was OK up until your last steps, then you only 
have to look as the steps that were mad since the last good tests.



One very effective way I use is to use find shorts makes use of a 
digital ohmmeter,  on it's lowest ohms range, set to display as many 
digits as possible.  Hook one lead to the - (negative) power bus, and 
search around with your meter, touching various + points (such as IC 
power feeds or + leads of electrolytic caps)  until you see the lowest 
ohms indication.  There will be very small differences as you move 
around the circuit, and the closer you get to the short,  the lower the 
ohms reading will be.  This probably won't work with an analog ohmmeter, 
because you are looking for differences in the .001 Ohms area.  Here is 
one area where a 5 or 6 digit meter really helps. I helped a friend find 
a DC short in his QRP kit this way.



Good luck!


- Jim, KL7CC



Rich Lim wrote:


Hey guys, I'm helping a friend Al, W9AFR with his K1 and were have run into a 
problem. Here is the deal. We have built upto and including the RF board Part I 
with no problems. The first set of resistance checks checked out ok until we 
installed the electrolytic caps c33, c39, c35, c54, c31, c67, c9, c10 and c53, 
as well as U5 (voltage regulator) and jumper on RFC8.

Now when we do the DC voltage checks we have a short to ground on the power jack. We have double checked the polarity of the caps and they are correct. Furthermore re-doing the resistance checks on p29, we now get P1 pin 16 shorted to ground and U4 pin 7 at 10 ohm. 


Would some Elecraft Guru out there give us some advice as where to look? I 
think that one of the caps is bad, but don't know which one to start replacing. I also 
wonder if D16 is bad too. If anyone can give us some advice, I'd sure appreciate it. 
Thanks alot guys!!

Rich
KQ9L
---
K1 #1669, K2 #3232, KX1 #21
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 ALC or Power problem

2004-07-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Julius,

You will likely find the problem associated with the VRFDET signal
somewhere.
Also, if you recently did the keyclick mod, look at that work carefully for
proper components, good soldering, and parts added in the correct spots on
the back of the control board.

73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 

 Hello All,
 I've had a problem crop up that has me scratching my
 head.
 I have K2 #3311 with the KPA100 and the KAT100. It's
 possible this problem has existed for a while, but
 I've just noticed it when trying to rebuild my
 antennas after a microburst attack. I can set the
 power level, according to the front panel from .1 Watt
 to 110 Watts, the relay clicks in at 10 Watts and the
 indicator on the ATU shows the change from high to
 low. Unfortunately, the low level is about 20 Watts
 only on a power meter, and high power is only 110
 watts, no adjustment. I'm not getting a Hi Current
 message as well. Any suggestions where to look? I've
 checked for burnt components, open R50, I don't appear
 to be getting any KPA100 bias voltage. The Cal Cur is
 set at 2.00 (did try adjusting it to 3.50 Amps, per
 the KPA manual). It had been operating correctly, but
 have only operated sporadically for the past few
 months.



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[Elecraft] Assembly Has begun

2004-07-30 Thread James McNichol
Hi all, 

Assembly has begun on KX1 sn 00759.

Jim
N3LBY
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