[Elecraft] KX1 fun
Just had to pass on that I was able to get out in the sunshine in Oregon for the Labor day Spartan Sprint with the KX1. The weather was perfect, and conditions on 20 weren't too bad. I was able to work cross country (MD,VA,NJ,NY) as well as the usual stuff from the west coast with just the internal batteries and a long wire tossed up in a tree branch. My total weight was 1.1 pounds-the rig, not me :).Great way to wrap up summer ( though in Or summer is July thru mid October). -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.talljazz.com 503-232-8244 Cell 503-701-3871 fax 503-232-4271 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K1 Filter Board Questions
Snip Martin wrote: ...I built a 4-band board for 40/30/20/15 and a two band board for 80/40m Hi Martin, Is your frequency of operation on 40m accurately shown on the LCD for *both* filter boards? The problem with having the same band on two different filter boards is that the K1 front panel MCU can only store *one* display calibration constant for each HF ham band (as set using the OPF function). The calibration constant is not stored in the filter board MCU. Unless the hetrodyne crystal oscillators for that duplicated band on both filter boards operate at the same frequency, the LCD frequency display for that band will be inaccurate for the filter board which was not installed at the time of the OPF frequency display calibration. Judging by three Elecraft 40m hetrodyne crystals I've tried, the variation between crystals can be several kHz. The effects of hetrodyne oscillator frequency variations do *not* automatically show up on the K1 LCD frequency display. The LCD display is driven by a frequency counter program in the front panel MCU that senses *only* the raw output of the VFO before it is mixed with any other oscillators in the K1. 73, Mike / KK5F Snip You are quite right Mike, the frequency calibration is only correct for one of the boards but the error seems to be fairly small (as you say it depends on the frequency difference of the crystals) and doesn't bother me. I just keep away from the band edges hi. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Encoder wiring
After a long delay (who says that retirement gives you the time to do all those things you want to do!) I have started to build K2 #4019. I'm at the point where I am about to wire the encoder to the front panel PCB. The manual talks about wrapping 4 wires around encoder lead-outs and there had been some (much) earlier posts about this - I tried something else. I have some old PCs in the garage - I salvaged some of the cables between the computer front panel and motherboard including a 4 pin flying socket which fits the encoder perfectly. All I had to do was cut the lead to length, solder to the front panel PCB and I have a neat connector to the encoder. This will allow removal of the front panel without removal of the large tuning knob and encoder first. Phil G8JQH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Enclosures
Hi all, Does Elecraft sell the smaller enclosure on it's own? (EC1?) I mean the enclosure used for the KAT100 and Transverters. I want to build a 4 way headphone splitter with independent volume controls and the smaller enclosure would be ideal for this. Ian -- Ian Maude G0VGS Morecambe Lancs UK | [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sysop of GB7MBC, the Morecambe Bay Cluster Running Linux and DXSpider | K2 #4044 Find out about Summits on the Air! Visit the SOTA web site at http://www.sota.org.uk ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS232--No connection between radio and computer.
Is the PORT turned on in the K2? I think it is on the SEC menu. Also, the amp must be powered up first, if it is separately powered from the rig. NRE/COLE Test Center OH-3 pcarteratgcfn.org or wd8qwratarrl.net Philip L. Carter, WD8QWR [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS232--No connection between radio and computer.
On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 08:26:22 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: The problem is more likely to be in the computer connection than the K2 port. I suggest downloading and installing the excellent Ham Radio Deluxe software that controls a lot of radios very well, including the K2. It is freeware. Use this as a known good element of the control chain. Use the default settings. Writelog also works very well the K2 (but it isn't free). Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Wire
On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 16:36:07 -0400, Phil LaMarche wrote: Just lost all my wire antenna's in the hurricane just passed. The wire broke in the wind. What should I purchase to replace what is lost? Sorry to hear of your bad luck. If you want to stick with dipoles, go to Home Depot and buy the biggest copper wire that you think you can support. I like #8 or #10 for long runs that are fed by RG8 or RG11, or #12 for shorter runs and runs that don't need to support as much weight. I would also look at WHAT elements failed. Was it the wire, the attachment points, the insulators? Whatever those weak points were, do them beefier than what you did before. IMO, anything #14 or larger is a fraction of a dB from #8, and many of us have made lots of QSO's with wires as small as #18 to #22 (although you may see a dB or two of loss for the small wire size). If you're a DX chaser, a vertical with a decent ground system is a fine alternative. So is a good long wire with a decent counterpoise. Many folks swear by something called an inverted L, or even tying both sides of a feedline together and feeding it as a long wire with the dipole providing top loading. The latter configuration works VERY well for me on 80 and 160. To make this work, there can't be a balun at the antenna, because this would disconnect the top section from the vertical section. So if and when you use this dipole as a dipole, you need a balun between the tuner and the feedline. Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Wire
Sorry to hear that Phillip. Just about any wire is fine. Insulation makes no difference. Since you are subject to strong winds there, you might want to go with the stronger types of wire designed for antennas. You want to stay with something at least copper-clad. RF flows in the surface of the wire so the insides don't matter at all. Hard-drawn stranded copper is very common and sold by HRO and other outlets. Stronger yet is copperweld, a single-strand steel wire jacketed with copper. It's very strong but kinks easily. It's like handling a giant slinky once you get it loose but not under tension. One kink is deadly; it drastically weakens the wire at that point. Be very careful as you pull the wire straight to make sure no loops turn into kinks. Are you stringing wire between trees or even a long span between solid supports? If so, you might want to consider some strain relief. When I lived where high winds blew, I secured one end of my antenna by running a rope from the end insulator over a pulley at the top of the support and down near the ground. There it looped through another pulley and was run back up several feet and tied off. To the floating pulley near the ground I hooked a bucket with some rocks in it - enough to hold proper tension on the wire. When the wind blew, the antenna could sway and the bucket of rocks would move up and down. It had about 4 feet of travel, but I never saw my 150 foot wire move it more than a foot or two, even in 70 to 80 MPH gusts. If you do that, be sure the bucket has lots of holes in the bottom. A strong storm with lots of rain can fill it and make it too heavy or rust out the bottom over time so the rocks fall out! If you have a tree that sways, you might consider such a flexible attachment at each end, and make sure the feed line has enough give to it doesn't limit the travel. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 1:36 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna Wire Just lost all my wire antenna's in the hurricane just passed. The wire broke in the wind. What should I purchase to replace what is lost? Thanks in advance. Philip LaMarche LaMarche Enterprises, Inc. www.instantgourmetspices.com 727-944-3226 (800) 395-7795 pin 02 Cell 727-510-5038 N.A.S.F.T # 30210 W9DVM -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.262 / Virus Database: 264.8.0 - Release Date: 9/6/2004 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] HI CUR LIMIT
On my K2/100 I have set the HI CUR to 3.5 but get warnings on some higher bands. The manual says HI CUR should be set to at least 3.5. Can anyone recommend what a typical value should be and what value I should not go beyond. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antenna Wire
Phillip, I agree with Ron. I used the Hard-drawn stranded copper from HRO. Made a dipole, 100ft per side, 450ohm ladderline. Had it up 3 years for 160 meters. No stretch in the wire. Measured when I took it down. Still wuthin 1/8 of an inch after 3 yearsAlso Universal Radio sells the Steel center/Copper clad by the foot. Great stuff.. Good Luck, Art W6KY K1-2 K1-4 Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry to hear that Phillip. Just about any wire is fine. Insulation makes no difference. Since you are subject to strong winds there, you might want to go with the stronger types of wire designed for antennas. You want to stay with something at least copper-clad. RF flows in the surface of the wire so the insides don't matter at all. Hard-drawn stranded copper is very common and sold by HRO and other outlets. Stronger yet is copperweld, a single-strand steel wire jacketed with copper. It's very strong but kinks easily. It's like handling a giant slinky once you get it loose but not under tension. One kink is deadly; it drastically weakens the wire at that point. Be very careful as you pull the wire straight to make sure no loops turn into kinks. Are you stringing wire between trees or even a long span between solid supports? If so, you might want to consider some strain relief. When I lived where high winds blew, I secured one end of my antenna by running a rope from the end insulator over a pulley at the top of the support and down near the ground. There it looped through another pulley and was run back up several feet and tied off. To the floating pulley near the ground I hooked a bucket with some rocks in it - enough to hold proper tension on the wire. When the wind blew, the antenna could sway and the bucket of rocks would move up and down. It had about 4 feet of travel, but I never saw my 150 foot wire move it more than a foot or two, even in 70 to 80 MPH gusts. If you do that, be sure the bucket has lots of holes in the bottom. A strong storm with lots of rain can fill it and make it too heavy or rust out the bottom over time so the rocks fall out! If you have a tree that sways, you might consider such a flexible attachment at each end, and make sure the feed line has enough give to it doesn't limit the travel. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 1:36 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna Wire Just lost all my wire antenna's in the hurricane just passed. The wire broke in the wind. What should I purchase to replace what is lost? Thanks in advance. Philip LaMarche LaMarche Enterprises, Inc. www.instantgourmetspices.com 727-944-3226 (800) 395-7795 pin 02 Cell 727-510-5038 N.A.S.F.T # 30210 W9DVM -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.262 / Virus Database: 264.8.0 - Release Date: 9/6/2004 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
