[Elecraft] Desoldering
Thanks for the comments guys regarding the 808 (China) I have decided to give it a go and have ordered direct from China!!! It will be interesting to see what the quality is likeand how well it performs I have some PCB boards here to reclaim components from. I will report back to the list when it arrives. The type I have ordered does look similar to the Circuit Specialist desoldering tool on their site. there appears to be a number of versions on the market all coming from China. Thanks again Rowland K2 K1 KX1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2: Update on 160 problem and looking for some help with K2IO
Got the problem with 160 fixed. I did not solder the pin that turned on the 160 relays in the KPA100. On the K2IO problem. Here are some voltage measurements that I took. I am not sure that the measurements are correct. I am also looking at the schematic for the K2IO section of the KPA 100. The /K2TX and /K2RX look ok at pin 11 and 12 of U4, the MAX1406. However I am not sure of the voltage at pin 5 and 6 outputs. Could someone clue me in to what the voltages measure on a KPA 100 that is working or a K2IO? I have pinged Gary Surrency on this and am waiting for his reply. On pin 11 and 12 going into the MAX1406 from the K2, I measure 5V when static. I measure -24 VDC on pin 5 and 0 VDC on pin 6 when static. This is with no serial cable connected and the port option turned off. I am pretty sure that the -24 on pin 5 is not good. With the port on and the serial cable connected, I get -5.39 VDC on pin 6 and -24 VDC on pin 5. I have 4.96 VDC on 11 and 12. This is on U4, the MAX 1402. I also get the same measurements at the AUXIO port on either side of the inductors, so I know that they are not open or shorted. It is also worth noting that pin 8, the High Voltage Bias Supply is also at -24VDC. This is the only source getting on to pin 5 that I can find. When I activate the K24U program, the voltage change. I get 3 VDC and 2.5 VAC on pin 11. I also get about the same on pin 12, so it looks like the levels coming from /K2TX and /K2RX are good. I get 3.6 VDC and about 3.1 AC on pin 6. BUT I get -9.86 VDC and 17.8 VAC on pin 5. This would indicate to me that the voltage on pin 5 is way too high and that is why I can send commands to the K2 and get them to work most of the time, and not get any receive data at the PC. The commands that I send from the PC only work part of the time. I have to send and resend to get the rig to do anything. I am also not getting any receive data as far as the displays, VFO, nothing. I have checked all of the cables, wires, inductors at RFC6,7 and 8. I get the same voltage measurements at either side of the chokes mentioned. They all check good with an ohmmeter, so I am assuming that since the voltage is being passed to the serial connector on the output side that all is well. I get 6M Ohm to ground at pin 5, 2.5M ohm to ground at 6. I have 2.87 M ohm to ground at pin 8 and 10M ohm between pin 5 and 8, so it does not really look shorted to me internally. If someone could measure the voltages on a working unit, that would really help me at this point. Jess AE0CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering tools
to imply that they may make knock-offs of Hakko products as their soldering stations appear virtually identical to those from Hakko (the 936-x models specifically). While the case appears to be identical to that of the Hakko, so do the desoldering tips, the 'power supply' is something new. It appears to be a 'wall-wart' type of supply, but may be nothing more than a transformer which allows the 120VAC unit to be used on 230V as well... Uhh... scratch the last... you may have your choice of voltage ranges, but not both... The specs seem to indicate that it is switchable between the two voltages. Additionally, the AOYUE seems to offer a number of additional tips can accessories which would have been extra cost items from Hakko. For the price, about $100 less that the Hakko price, it MIGHT be a good buy. But caveat emptor... These look like the stations and desoldering equipment sold by Circuit Specialists under their brand name. www.circuitspecialists.com. Dennis N4ZKR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering tools
Hi Tom, Rowland, IMHO, Products from China are usually good buy. My DMM, AC minivolt meter and 100Mhz oscilloscope are from China and all function well. I am now using a Goot TP100 AS desoldering gun from Japan. It is more expensive and costs me HKD1,600. I have not tried the Aoyue 808 but for nearly half of the price, why not have a try? At the end of the day, the manufacturing of desoldering gun does not require top of the line space shuttle technology. Good luck and let us have your findings in this group in due course. 73 Johnny VR2XMC, Hong Kong builder of s/n 1146, 4165, 4255, 4597 - Original Message - From: "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rowland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 4:24 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering tools Hi Rowland: Though I own a Hakko 808, I have no hands-on experience with the AOYUE 808. AOYUE is a Chinese-base manufacturer. Hakko is Japanese. Visiting the AOYUE home page http://www.aoyue.com/en/products.asp, appears to imply that they may make knock-offs of Hakko products as their soldering stations appear virtually identical to those from Hakko (the 936-x models specifically). While the case appears to be identical to that of the Hakko, so do the desoldering tips, the 'power supply' is something new. It appears to be a 'wall-wart' type of supply, but may be nothing more than a transformer which allows the 120VAC unit to be used on 230V as well... Uhh... scratch the last... you may have your choice of voltage ranges, but not both... The specs seem to indicate that it is switchable between the two voltages. Additionally, the AOYUE seems to offer a number of additional tips can accessories which would have been extra cost items from Hakko. For the price, about $100 less that the Hakko price, it MIGHT be a good buy. But caveat emptor... Cheers, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Two Band Moxon/wire beam
Brett, To answer your question, I am using stranded, silver plated, teflon insulated #16 wire. It is plenty strong. I have a 3/16" Dacron line between the two poles to take the strain off the wires. This also decreases the vertical bend and completely eliminates the horizontal bend of the two poles. (To review, the antenna is a 40 meter Moxon wire beam with a 2 element 20 wire meter beam inside. There are two supports, 22' long fiberglass poles at each end, spaced 45 '. There are two feed lines.) We put the antenna up today for our annual special event at for the Harvest Faire at the Norman Bird Sanctuary in Middletown, RI for this weekend. Listen for us on 20 and 40. Call is W1SYE, Newport County Radio Club. (See Sept QST, special events). The antenna is about 30' high on one end and about 25' on the other, from a portable mast to a tree. The Fo and Zo is not much different from what it was at 21'. Fo is about 14.00/7.00 MHZ . SWR is 1:1, 50 ohms on both bands per MFJ 159B. 2:1 band width is (top frequency) 14.4 MHz and 7.25 MHz resp. I still want to move it up to 14.2 and 7.25 MHz. It's a very nice beam; doesn't sag much and it is easy to erect. The weight is about 18# which includes everything supported. The feed lines are two lengths of double shielded RG-58 (TRF-58). I am going to try simultaneous operation on 40 and 20 using 20 and 40 meter bandpass filters by Array Solutions. The 40M filter has an insertion loss of 70 dB on 14 MHz and the 20M filter has an insertion loss of 35 dB on 7 MHz. I will use my K2/100 with a LDG Z-11 tuner and the club's Ten Tec Jupiter with its LDG tuner. I will try my other K2 with KAT2 in case the Jupiter overloads on receive. I don't know how this will work out. Calculations say it won't work at 100 watts as there is not enough attenuation, but I will try it and report results. There must be some power level of the transmitters that will work. It would be handy for field day, but if it doesn't work we will just have to put the second transceiver on 80 meters using another antenna. Or else use separate receiving antennas. The K2 with the KAT2 can do this; I don't know about a K2/100 with a KAT100. Maybe someone can enlighten me. Chas, W1CG At 06:23 PM 9/29/2005, VR2BrettGraham wrote: W1CG replied to K5KVH: Thank you for the insight. I calculated the % the wire lengths were off by % the frequency was off, and I also "moved" the model up in frequency (by shortening wire lengths in the model) by the amount it differed from the measurement. In other words, the actual was about 200 KHz below the model, so I moved the model up 200 KHz. The model was at the same height as the measurements. Both techniques produced results that were close. One thing I found was to not change the wire spacing at the ends, but just to change the length of wires between the main supports. I will wait until we hoist it to the final height which I estimate to be near 30' and take some more measurements then trim based on that. I think we can operate with the existing lengths as the top band edge is within the 2:1 SWR bandwidth at 21'; it may be a little off at 30' as the resonant frequency goes down as the height is increased, but we don't have to operate near the top end of the band. We have a LDG tuner, so it should be able to tune ok. I don't recall if you mentioned if you were using bare or insulated wire. Between the several percent that contributes & the coupling between the elements, I think WA1X's (I believe it was) suggestion on towertalk or somewhere a while back on how he trims Moxons is the way to go. With bare wire, I have done quite a bit of mucking around trying to tune a 10m Moxon with effect of "ground" (reinforced concrete roof top) a half wavelength up. A decent match with reasonable pattern I believe is probably much easier to achieve by tuning each element separately as WA1X described. The coupling in a Moxon rectangle is pretty intense - it is a good idea to maintain geometry after trimming the ends, though some sort of directivity will remain if you don't (up to a point). I have done all sorts of models of Moxons & all multi-band approaches other than back-to-back look to be hard to achieve in practice (nesting, mix with yagi elements, sleeves, etc). Nested Moxon reflector for the higher band & sleeve around low band driver looks awfully interesting, but would require a _lot_ of work to trim into submission in the real world. GL. 73, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tenna dipper... enclosure
A simple custom project box, approx. 2.25" X 4.25" x 1" ... only a few bucks ;-) Le 05-09-29 à 20:53, Paul Gates, KD3JF a écrit : What kind of enclosure did you use? --- JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I finally put my Tenna Dipper in my enclosure. I also tested the Tenna Dipper with the internal frequency counter of the K2... works great !!! I only have to do a 'official' external connector from the K2 to the Tenna Dipper to have access to the frequency meter. A few pics at... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum48.html 73 = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z [EMAIL PROTECTED] \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Paul Gates, KD3JF K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z [EMAIL PROTECTED] \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tenna dipper... enclosure
I finally put my Tenna Dipper in my enclosure. I also tested the Tenna Dipper with the internal frequency counter of the K2... works great !!! I only have to do a 'official' external connector from the K2 to the Tenna Dipper to have access to the frequency meter. A few pics at... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum48.html 73 = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z [EMAIL PROTECTED] \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Recommended Solder (lead/tin) and where to buy
Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote: We have added a new page to our builder's resource page with recommended lead content solders and where to buy them from a number of U.S. vendors. GAH! Any chance you could provide a similar page with recommended LEAD-FREE solders, for those of us who feel they ought to / must / should / want to go RoHS-compliant? -- "Nosey" Nick Waterman, Senior Sysadmin. #include [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wasting time is an important part of life. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Two Band Moxon/wire beam
W1CG replied to K5KVH: Thank you for the insight. I calculated the % the wire lengths were off by % the frequency was off, and I also "moved" the model up in frequency (by shortening wire lengths in the model) by the amount it differed from the measurement. In other words, the actual was about 200 KHz below the model, so I moved the model up 200 KHz. The model was at the same height as the measurements. Both techniques produced results that were close. One thing I found was to not change the wire spacing at the ends, but just to change the length of wires between the main supports. I will wait until we hoist it to the final height which I estimate to be near 30' and take some more measurements then trim based on that. I think we can operate with the existing lengths as the top band edge is within the 2:1 SWR bandwidth at 21'; it may be a little off at 30' as the resonant frequency goes down as the height is increased, but we don't have to operate near the top end of the band. We have a LDG tuner, so it should be able to tune ok. I don't recall if you mentioned if you were using bare or insulated wire. Between the several percent that contributes & the coupling between the elements, I think WA1X's (I believe it was) suggestion on towertalk or somewhere a while back on how he trims Moxons is the way to go. With bare wire, I have done quite a bit of mucking around trying to tune a 10m Moxon with effect of "ground" (reinforced concrete roof top) a half wavelength up. A decent match with reasonable pattern I believe is probably much easier to achieve by tuning each element separately as WA1X described. The coupling in a Moxon rectangle is pretty intense - it is a good idea to maintain geometry after trimming the ends, though some sort of directivity will remain if you don't (up to a point). I have done all sorts of models of Moxons & all multi-band approaches other than back-to-back look to be hard to achieve in practice (nesting, mix with yagi elements, sleeves, etc). Nested Moxon reflector for the higher band & sleeve around low band driver looks awfully interesting, but would require a _lot_ of work to trim into submission in the real world. GL. 73, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: earthing joints
On Thursday 29 September 2005 10:15, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Bear in mind that many of the chassis screws are used to secure 'earthing > joints'. Recently I learned how important electrical contact at these screw points is. I had low speaker output and I thought the band conditions were the reason. I noticed at some point that in picking the K2 up from the left side, the volume increased and the leftmost LED on the signal strength meter disappeared. I removed the bottom panel and on screwing it back with power applied, turning the screw created electrical noise. I worked it back and forth until the noise disappeared and now the K2 is much more sensitive and louder. With no other K2 to compare, I hadn't realised there was a problem. Ian, K2 4962, G4ICV, AB2GR -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering tools
Hi Rowland: At 01:43 PM 9/29/2005, Rowland wrote: I have been looking around for a desoldering tool for some time. The Hakko 808 would be ideal but the prices over here in the UK are around £200. Having searched the net there appears to be a number of clones of the Hakko, or is the Hakko a clone itself?? Has anyone on the list any experience of the device shown at http://us.i-phone.org/main/product.php?prod=1257&PHPSESSID=3d55e1c80ce5b41765b8d36c712ebcd7&cat=93 Though I own a Hakko 808, I have no hands-on experience with the AOYUE 808. AOYUE is a Chinese-base manufacturer. Hakko is Japanese. Visiting the AOYUE home page http://www.aoyue.com/en/products.asp, appears to imply that they may make knock-offs of Hakko products as their soldering stations appear virtually identical to those from Hakko (the 936-x models specifically). While the case appears to be identical to that of the Hakko, so do the desoldering tips, the 'power supply' is something new. It appears to be a 'wall-wart' type of supply, but may be nothing more than a transformer which allows the 120VAC unit to be used on 230V as well... Uhh... scratch the last... you may have your choice of voltage ranges, but not both... The specs seem to indicate that it is switchable between the two voltages. Additionally, the AOYUE seems to offer a number of additional tips can accessories which would have been extra cost items from Hakko. For the price, about $100 less that the Hakko price, it MIGHT be a good buy. But caveat emptor... Cheers, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Desoldering tools
I have been looking around for a desoldering tool for some time. The Hakko 808 would be ideal but the prices over here in the UK are around £200. Having searched the net there appears to be a number of clones of the Hakko, or is the Hakko a clone itself?? Has anyone on the list any experience of the device shown at http://us.i-phone.org/main/product.php?prod=1257&PHPSESSID=3d55e1c80ce5b41765b8d36c712ebcd7&cat=93 Any info would be helpful. Thanks Rowland G4APO K2 K1 KX1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Multicore solder available
All, I just talked with the RS Hughes sales rep, Matt, in Portland, OR and explained the interest in solder and the problem with purchasing small quantities. He has to purchase 20-roll boxes from Locktine. So, this is what we worked out: he has agreed to sell small quantities directly to individuals as long as the total orders add up to be close to full boxes, e.g., 20, 40 etc. Anyone interested in purchasing some solder should contact Matt with order specifics at [EMAIL PROTECTED] He will tally up any orders early next week and contact Locktite. To reiterate, the solder we are talking about here is MM00979 LOCTITE WIRE SN 63; diam=.020" and wt =1 lb, and the projected ship date is in mid-November (perhaps earlier). I have no interest in RS Hughes other than trying to get my hands on a couple rolls of solder and I apologize for taking up time and space on the reflector and in mail boxes with this. 73, steve, kx7r ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Loctite multicore solder
Jim: At 08:47 AM 9/29/2005, Jim Campbell wrote: I also placed an order for two rolls of the Loctite solder with R. S. Hughes. I received a call earlier this morning from their Raleigh, NC location informing me of the minimum requirement for 20 1-pound rolls. I told them to cancel the order. ... Interesting... at the very TOP of their web page it says, "NO MINIMUM ORDER"...! Call 1-877-774-8443. That's their KC MO office, and that's where I spoke with the young man who confirmed that bulk orders, while appreciated, were NOT required. I'll bet he can help you out. Or just order via their web site at: http://rshughes.com/products/mm00979.html for .020" dia. or http://rshughes.com/products/mm00980.html for .025" dia. or http://rshughes.com/products/mm00981.html for .030" dia. Their web site offers quantities of "1" and up. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Loctite Multicore solder
I also placed an order for two rolls of the Loctite solder with R. S. Hughes. I received a call earlier this morning from their Raleigh, NC location informing me of the minimum requirement for 20 1-pound rolls. I told them to cancel the order. Apparently someone else had also ordered from them. That person told them that there were several people interested in one or two rolls. I just received another call from the Raleigh branch and they have decided to order a 20-roll box and break it up. So if you live in the Raleigh branch's territory (wherever that is) they will accept a small order. Those living outside the Raleigh office area of responsibility might try e-mailing them at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and perhaps they will honor your order. 72, Jim W4BQP Spartanburg, SC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Loctite multicore solder
I also placed an order for two rolls of the Loctite solder with R. S. Hughes. I received a call earlier this morning from their Raleigh, NC location informing me of the minimum requirement for 20 1-pound rolls. I told them to cancel the order. Apparently someone else had also ordered from them. That person told them that there were several people interested in one or two rolls. I just received another call from the Raleigh branch and they have decided to order a 20-roll box and break it up. So if you live in the Raleigh branch's territory (wherever that is) they will accept a small order. Those living outside the Raleigh office area of responsibility might try e-mailing them at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and perhaps they will honor your order. 72, Jim W4BQP Spartanburg, SC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE:K2 Programmer's Reference
I found that the sw38 thru sw69 commands were indeed pre-positioning the menu, but needed to be followed by a "Menu", sw05, command to display the quickmenu selection on the LCD and make the information available to the control program. Things are all better now. Thanks for the BW. 73s Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Phillips Screws
For an exhaustive discussion on screw types, see http://www.lara.com/reviews/screwtypes.htm and then scroll down to the 3rd description. The principal difference at the driver bit tip is that Philips bits are rounded, and thus more prone to trashing the screw than is Reed and Prince bit that is squared off. My preference is to use Reed and Prince cap screws and the proper driver for them. Bob Rennard N7WY - Original Message - From: "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 7:18 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Phillips Screws > There is another recessed, or "cross-head" screw in common use...It is called "Reed and Prince"...Phillips has gained more popularity, but Reed and Prince, in my humble opinion, is a better format...Phillips uses different size tips and the tips are blunt, or rounded...Reed and Prince tips are sharp pointed...A single Reed and Prince tip will properly fit any size Reed and Prince screw...That was their intention in order to simplify production and cut down on the number of tools required...If a Reed and Prince tip is used on a Phillips screw, the sharp-pointed tip will most likely bottom out before the side flutes are properly engaged and a tear-out of the screw head will result...If the # 2 Phillips tip you is using has a sharp point, it is most likely not a Phillips at all, but a Reed and Prince...Grinding the tip down a little to remove the sharp point might help...Reed and Prince is an old American fastener company, incorporated in 1902, and they developed the "cross-hea > d" screw in 1938... > > There are anti-seize compounds available for automobile spark plugs in order to keep the steel threads of the spark plugs from seizing and stripping out the threads in an aluminum cylinder head...A small amount on the screws at the 2-D blocks should help prevent corrosion galling... > > Jerry, wa2dkg > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Edmund Laport's Radio Antenna Engineering
I posted this to TowerTalk yesterday. I received my copy yesterday in the mail and I was very impressed with the quality... it's just like having the original book, even though it is printed from a scanned pdf. The pdf is also available for free at LuLu and elsewhere. Larry N8LP John D'Ausilio wrote: I don't usually cross-post, but this book is worth it .. got this from the AMPS list, don't ask what I'm doing on the AMPS list :) A classic antenna book, published in 1952 by McGraw-Hill. Edmund Laport was chief engineer of RCA's international division and this book has some WONDERFUL old-time antenna photos. I have treasured my copy since I obtained it in the early 1960s. Once again today someone asked me where they could find a copy of the book so I did a web search and low and behold you can now buy a reprint for $16.03. -- OR -- You can download a FREE copy. It is a 32.1 MB pdf file and is a pretty good reproduction of all 574 pages. You can't be an antenna guy without a copy of this classic. Did you notice the word FREE above??? http://books.lulu.com/content/159004 72 de w1rt/John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 5119 is alive!
Along with the other fine discussion here about why screws bind/gall and what to do to prevent it, I'll toss in a couple of brand names that I have found useful both in my automotive and (mechanical) instrument hobbies: Kroil and Microil, both from Kano Labs. http://www.kanolabs.com/ Kroil (and its cousin, Silikroil) are wonderful for taking apart something that no longer wants to come apart. Microil is wonderful for putting together fine instruments that you want to keep moving or to disassemble later. I think that a drop of Microil would keep the alu/steel interface from galling, without the possible mess involved in applying a more traditional anti-seize (I'm fond of the silvery stuff from Permatex/Loctite, myself). And for the ones that won't come apart any more, a short shot of Kroil will free them right up. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calrndar: Oct 2005
~~~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR October 2005 ~~~ TARA PSK31 Rumble (PSK31 only) ... QRP Category Oct 1, z to 2400z Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_rumble_rules.html ~~~ EU SPRINT CONTEST (SSB) ... 100W category Oct 1, 1500z to 1859z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/eusprint/ ~~~ California QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category OCT 1, 1600z to Oct 2, 2200z Rules: http://www.cqp.org/ ~~~ RSGB 21/28 MHz Contest (SSB) ... QRP Category Oct 2, 0700z to 1900z Rules: http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/rules/r2128.shtml ~~~ German Telegraphy Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Oct 3, 0700z to 0959z Rules: http://www.agcw.de/english/contest/dtc_e.htm ~~~ Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Oct 4, 0100z to 0300z (First Monday 9 PM EDT) Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~~~ EU SPRINT CONTEST (CW) ... 100W category Oct 8, 1500z to 1859z Rules: http://www.eusprint.com/ ~~~ Pennsylvania QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category and Bonus Oct 8, 1600z to Oct 9, 0500z Oct 9, 1300z to Oct 9, 2200z Rules: http://www.nittany-arc.net/paqso.html ~~~ FISTS Fall Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category Oct 8, 1700z to 2100z Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html ~~~ North American Sprint (RTTY) ... QRP Category Oct 9, Z to 0400Z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php ~~~ Ten-Ten Day Sprint (All) ... QRP Category Oct 10, 0001z to 2359z Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/calendar.html ~~~ NACC 80M/40M Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! *** Oct 13, 0030z to 0230z Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html ~~~ Worked All Germany Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Oct 15, 1500z to Oct 16, 1459z Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedcgr.htm ~~~ RSGB 21/28 MHz Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Oct 16, 0700z to 1900z Rules: http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/rules/r2128.shtml ~~~ Illinois QSO Party (CW/PH)... QRP Category Oct 16, 1700z to Oct 17, 0100z Rules: http://my.core.com/~jematz/ilqp/ilqphome.htm ~~~ RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Oct 17, 0100z to 0300z Rules: http://fpqrp.com ~~~ QRP ARCI Fall QSO Party (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Oct 22, 1200z to Oct 23, 2400z Rules: http://www.qrparci.org ~~~ 070 Club 160m Great Pumpkin Sprint (PSK) ... QRP Category Oct 23, 2000 to Oct 24, 0200 (Local Time) Rules: http://podxs.com/html/160_meter_sprint.html ~~~ Zombie Shuffle (CW) *** QRP CONTEST *** Oct 28, Local Sundown to Local Midnight (Any 4 hour period) Rules: http://www.zianet.com/QRP/ ~~~ CQ WW DX Contest (SSB) ... QRP Category Oct 29, z to Oct 30, 2400z Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html ~~~ Ten-Ten QSO Party (CW) ... QRP Category Oct 29, 0001z to Oct 30, 2359z Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/calendar.html ~~~ 4th Annual Fists Coast to Coast Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Oct 30, z to 2400z Rules: http://www.tomochka.com/k7fff/fnw_c2c05.html ~~~ ARCBS 2005 Spookfest (CW/SSB/PSK31) ... QRP Category Oct 30, 1700z to Oct 31, 0300z Rules: http://www.arcbs.org/ARCBSSpookfest2005.html ~~~ Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL), WB3AAL and others for assistance in compiling this calendar. Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we will post it and give it more publicity. Anyone may use this "N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar" for your website, newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose. (Include a credit to the source of this material of course.) 72 de Ken Newman - N2CQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] http
[Elecraft] Edmund Laport's Radio Antenna Engineering
I don't usually cross-post, but this book is worth it .. got this from the AMPS list, don't ask what I'm doing on the AMPS list :) >A classic antenna book, published in 1952 by McGraw-Hill. Edmund Laport was >chief engineer of RCA's international division and this book has some >WONDERFUL >old-time antenna photos. > >I have treasured my copy since I obtained it in the early 1960s. Once again >today someone asked me where they could find a copy of the book so I did >a web search and low and behold you can now buy a reprint for $16.03. > >-- OR -- You can download a FREE copy. It is a 32.1 MB pdf file and is a >pretty good reproduction of all 574 pages. > >You can't be an antenna guy without a copy of this classic. Did you >notice the >word FREE above??? > >http://books.lulu.com/content/159004 > 72 de w1rt/John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE:K2 Programmer's Reference
I have found the sw38 thru sw69 commands are presetting the menu position, but to see the menu information on the LCD display, I must follow those with a sw05, "MENU", command. So, there is a workaround to my problem, but in checking my older version source code, that does not seem to be the case. Jim, W4ATk ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] TenTec hamfest and SECO
Julius: I was wondering; is there a home football game in Knoxville that day? Steve AA4AK At 06:30 AM 9/29/2005 -0700, J F wrote: Stop by and say hello if you're going to be at either of these East Tennessee events on Saturday. 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Tenna DIpper adn FQY Counter
I have the built the Tenna dipper, the Flying Pigs NOGA Frequency counter and two frequency 'standards' - both with selectable output. All of which I got from various Ham clubs over the internet --- "ain't Google wonderful??", The Flying Pigs frequency counter works very well. Fed with 9V you get the LCD displaying the frequency... and fed with 12V the LCD's backlight comes on :-)) FWIW Dave KK7SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Wanted a K2 Swap
Hi All I have a FT857 fitted with the DSP module and a Icom 703 fitted with the ATU and DSP module, (HF Only Version) both are very good condition and with boxes, I would like to do a swap for a K2 with options, if interested let me know your K2 Serial number and what options you have, or if you have a K2 for Sale let me know too. all the best Paul M0BMN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Programmer's Reference
I am puzzled. Some time back I started a K2 control project customized just for my way of operation. I included a quick menu control utilizing the "SW38;" through "SW69;" single switch menu commands. Recently going back to the project to include some new functions, those commands no longer seem to function. I fired up hyperterminal and sure enough, everything works as expected except those commands. Have I missed something here? They are/were a really nice feature. Firmware: 2.04P 1.09 Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] TenTec hamfest and SECO
Julius! Julius (N2WN) wrote: Stop by and say hello if you're going to be at either of these East Tennessee events on Saturday. LOOK FER US THERE! K9ZTV, NN0B, KW4A, and I (N0SS) will be driving to Spring City TN, to overnight with KW4A, and then on to TenTec on Saturday morning. I'll try to remember to wear a cap with my call... I'll also be wearing my Elecraft shirt, but if it's as chilly as they're warning us it might be, I may never get my jacket off the show the shirt! Hope to see MANY Elecrafters at the TenTec Hamfest this weekend! 73, Tom N0SS PS three of the four of us going from here are Elecrafters!! I guess putting up an Elecraft table there might be a bit too 'pushy'... heheh! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SEDCO
Ooops, it's SEDCO, not SECO! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] TenTec hamfest and SECO
Stop by and say hello if you're going to be at either of these East Tennessee events on Saturday. 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Multicore solder list full
Thanks for the all the replys. The extra rolls of solder have been spoken for. I'll be in touch directly with the list of buyers with more details soon. 73, steve, kx7r ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Phillips Screws
There is another recessed, or "cross-head" screw in common use...It is called "Reed and Prince"...Phillips has gained more popularity, but Reed and Prince, in my humble opinion, is a better format...Phillips uses different size tips and the tips are blunt, or rounded...Reed and Prince tips are sharp pointed...A single Reed and Prince tip will properly fit any size Reed and Prince screw...That was their intention in order to simplify production and cut down on the number of tools required...If a Reed and Prince tip is used on a Phillips screw, the sharp-pointed tip will most likely bottom out before the side flutes are properly engaged and a tear-out of the screw head will result...If the # 2 Phillips tip you is using has a sharp point, it is most likely not a Phillips at all, but a Reed and Prince...Grinding the tip down a little to remove the sharp point might help...Reed and Prince is an old American fastener company, incorporated in 1902, and they developed the "cross-hea d" screw in 1938... There are anti-seize compounds available for automobile spark plugs in order to keep the steel threads of the spark plugs from seizing and stripping out the threads in an aluminum cylinder head...A small amount on the screws at the 2-D blocks should help prevent corrosion galling... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 17, Issue 32
Bear in mind that many of the chassis screws are used to secure 'earthing joints'. The use of a lubricating oil or copper slip will indeed reduce electolytic corrosion but may well also introduce some resistance, as all lubricating oils/greases will leave a thin skin even under pressure. However 'petroleum jelly' despite being a very good insulator has a lubrication factor of 1 and any pressure (via the screw threads) will break through the skin and make good contact. It will of course also cover the joint and limit corrosion. IMHO. John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
