Re: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1?
X!!! kX1!! As Miss Natatile Latilla used to say.Never mind. Sorryit's 5:45AM and not quite up yet. - Original Message - From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 5:40 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1? Hi Chris - My K1 manual says 8.5 to 15. You should be safe. I am running a Toshiba laptop switching supply which is rated at 15VDC ouput to run my K1. I see 14.8VDC on my K1's BAT indicator. 73 de Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: Chris Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:34 AM Subject: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1? In my quest to get a lighter/smaller power supply for my KX-1, I found a wallwart in my junk box. Says 12V, 1A. Actually puts out 14.9V according to the KX-1's 'bat' display. Specs call for 7-14v. Am I risking damage by exceeding that? It looks like D2/D3 (1N5817) are prepared to block 20V reverse. I can keep looking; I'm mostly 'just wondering'. It's kind of heavy, anyway (I'm sure it's a linear, not switcher, which is, of course, a mixed blessing.) Thanks. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Test - please disregard
Having trouble posting - please disregard Bill k1ev ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer
This is slightly off topic - but since there is such a generous group of guys that are very knowledgable in electronics (and since my brain is a little soft in this area), I think I'll toss this request out and hope for the best. First off - please reply off the list since this does not pertain directly to Elecraft equipment (except that it might be fun to eventually take the same design and build a larger p/s for the K2/QRP). My goal is to build a non-switching, voltage regulated 9V/1.5A power supply with enough isolation and filtering to keep RFI out of a Grundig Satellite 800. My father has one of these radios, and so do I (unfortunately, he lives out of state - so I couldn't compare the two radios and p/s side by side). When I visited him over the holidays, I discovered that the OEM power supply my father has is either producing RFI or is conducting RFI, because he can tune in daytime AM/MW signals from over 100 miles away when running the thing on batteries, but he has a hard time with signals beyond 50 miles away as soon as he plugs the power supply into the outlet (this was AFTER we already turned off the worst RFI generating offenders in the house). The Grundig Sat 800 power requirements are spec'd at 7-10V DC up to 1 Amp (530mA with 1/4W output and lamp off, and 830mA with 1/4W output and lamp on), and it says in the manual that the supplied adapter is 9V/1.5A. I've got an old 1987 copy of the handbook which I've got up in the attic for reference, and I realize some of the basic things (from my license/testing days) that go into a power supply (transformer, diodes, capacitors, inductors, regulators). I want to actually build my own power supply from scratch - starting with the transformer. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to use a medium-large toroid core and some heavy wire to do this. [I could go down to Radio Shack and buy a wall wart, but I want to actually make something that is going to work 'really well' in terms of reducing RFI passing through the AC power supply - something that a cheap power adapter probably won't be designed for.] So - here's where I'm hoping you can help me with... What core (size and material composition) should I use for transforming an AC signal? How many windings of what kind of wire would be the 'best' for the power requirements of this supply? Should I build a 120/12V transformer and voltage regulate it down to 9V, or would it be better to simply build a 120/9V transformer and rectify the AC and smooth it out with passive components? How can I best filter out RFI being carried on the AC line? Are there any other considerations I should be aware of? Do you know of any helpful websites I should visit (I haven't googled this topic yet)? I'm sorry to waste the bandwidth of others here. Any help supplied is greatly appreciated! - Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer
Hi The first thing I see as a problem is the toroid transformer. At 60 Hz none of the common cores are going to work. You really need some steel in the core. I have seen some transformers made for 60 Hz wound on a spring steel toroid core. This is not something that is easy to build. I would use a small transformer from radio shack or even better a door bell transformer as they are very well shielded to meet class 2 UL requirements. On the input to the transformer use 2 .01 uf 600 volt caps from each input wire to earth ground. I would then come out to a bridge diode rectifier bypassed by .01uf caps across each diode. Then into a large filter cap about 2000-4000 uf also bypassed with a .01 uf disk across the filter cap for the RF bypass. If you are using a 10 volt doorbell transformer you should have about 14 volts DC at this point. From there I would use a three terminal regulator like a LM117 or LM337 followed by a 10 uf filter and finally pass both the plus and minus wires through a 1 inch ferrite toroid core several turns. If you would like me to draw up a schematic for you I could email it to in PDF format. There are many other ways to do this this is just one off the top of my head. Someone may come up with a better idea but these simple power supplies are fun and easy to build Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Daniel Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:54 AM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer This is slightly off topic - but since there is such a generous group of guys that are very knowledgable in electronics (and since my brain is a little soft in this area), I think I'll toss this request out and hope for the best. First off - please reply off the list since this does not pertain directly to Elecraft equipment (except that it might be fun to eventually take the same design and build a larger p/s for the K2/QRP). My goal is to build a non-switching, voltage regulated 9V/1.5A power supply with enough isolation and filtering to keep RFI out of a Grundig Satellite 800. My father has one of these radios, and so do I (unfortunately, he lives out of state - so I couldn't compare the two radios and p/s side by side). When I visited him over the holidays, I discovered that the OEM power supply my father has is either producing RFI or is conducting RFI, because he can tune in daytime AM/MW signals from over 100 miles away when running the thing on batteries, but he has a hard time with signals beyond 50 miles away as soon as he plugs the power supply into the outlet (this was AFTER we already turned off the worst RFI generating offenders in the house). The Grundig Sat 800 power requirements are spec'd at 7-10V DC up to 1 Amp (530mA with 1/4W output and lamp off, and 830mA with 1/4W output and lamp on), and it says in the manual that the supplied adapter is 9V/1.5A. I've got an old 1987 copy of the handbook which I've got up in the attic for reference, and I realize some of the basic things (from my license/testing days) that go into a power supply (transformer, diodes, capacitors, inductors, regulators). I want to actually build my own power supply from scratch - starting with the transformer. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to use a medium-large toroid core and some heavy wire to do this. [I could go down to Radio Shack and buy a wall wart, but I want to actually make something that is going to work 'really well' in terms of reducing RFI passing through the AC power supply - something that a cheap power adapter probably won't be designed for.] So - here's where I'm hoping you can help me with... What core (size and material composition) should I use for transforming an AC signal? How many windings of what kind of wire would be the 'best' for the power requirements of this supply? Should I build a 120/12V transformer and voltage regulate it down to 9V, or would it be better to simply build a 120/9V transformer and rectify the AC and smooth it out with passive components? How can I best filter out RFI being carried on the AC line? Are there any other considerations I should be aware of? Do you know of any helpful websites I should visit (I haven't googled this topic yet)? I'm sorry to waste the bandwidth of others here. Any help supplied is greatly appreciated! - Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to
RE: [Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer
Daniel, Answering on the list since there may be other folks interested too. Most toroid cores will not handle 60 Hz, so you will be better off not attempting to build your transformer. The power supply construction articles that show winding a toroid transformer are switching supplies and the transformer operates at a much higher frequency (the switching at high frequency is what causes the trash that some produce) - a linear supply (what you are contemplating) does not produce switching RFI. I suggest that you obtain a 120 volt transformer to 25 volt Center Tapped transformer already built - follow it with a full wave rectifier, filter it and follow that with a 3 terminal voltage regulator. The LM317 is rated for 1.5 amps and is adjustable, so you can easily obtain whatever voltage you need up to 10 or 12 volts (get the LM317 data sheet - download it from http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM317.html - the calculations for setting the output voltage are in the data sheet). Your 1987 Handbook should have most all the circuit diagrams and information that you need to complete it. On the 120 volt AC side, use sensible precautions - fused input, switch contacts and other connections protected from accidental contact and so forth. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- ... My goal is to build a non-switching, voltage regulated 9V/1.5A power supply with enough isolation and filtering to keep RFI out of a Grundig Satellite 800. My father has one of these radios, and so do I (unfortunately, he lives out of state - so I couldn't compare the two radios and p/s side by side). When I visited him over the holidays, I discovered that the OEM power supply my father has is either producing RFI or is conducting RFI, because he can tune in daytime AM/MW signals from over 100 miles away when running the thing on batteries, but he has a hard time with signals beyond 50 miles away as soon as he plugs the power supply into the outlet (this was AFTER we already turned off the worst RFI generating offenders in the house). The Grundig Sat 800 power requirements are spec'd at 7-10V DC up to 1 Amp (530mA with 1/4W output and lamp off, and 830mA with 1/4W output and lamp on), and it says in the manual that the supplied adapter is 9V/1.5A. I've got an old 1987 copy of the handbook which I've got up in the attic for reference, and I realize some of the basic things (from my license/testing days) that go into a power supply (transformer, diodes, capacitors, inductors, regulators). I want to actually build my own power supply from scratch - starting with the transformer. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to use a medium-large toroid core and some heavy wire to do this. [I could go down to Radio Shack and buy a wall wart, but I want to actually make something that is going to work 'really well' in terms of reducing RFI passing through the AC power supply - something that a cheap power adapter probably won't be designed for.] So - here's where I'm hoping you can help me with... What core (size and material composition) should I use for transforming an AC signal? How many windings of what kind of wire would be the 'best' for the power requirements of this supply? Should I build a 120/12V transformer and voltage regulate it down to 9V, or would it be better to simply build a 120/9V transformer and rectify the AC and smooth it out with passive components? How can I best filter out RFI being carried on the AC line? Are there any other considerations I should be aware of? Do you know of any helpful websites I should visit (I haven't googled this topic yet)? I'm sorry to waste the bandwidth of others here. Any help supplied is greatly appreciated! - Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: 14.9v to KX1
I found the same on several of the higher current wall warts I wanted to use on my KX1. To drop the voltage to something I considered acceptable I put a few silicon diodes in series with the wall wart supply. Each diode drops the voltage about .7 volts. Has worked ok for me. de Doug, KJ4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Rig - Computer Interface
Sorry for this off topic, but if figured I'd ask here.. I've been considering a Rig - Computer interface since I would like to start working some of the digital modes. I've been eye'n the West Mountain interfaces for awhile, but last nite I read some positive information on the Tigertronics SignalLink units. I have some older equipement(tubes knobs), and some newer equipment, and possibly soon a K2, and I want an interface that will easily work with all. So I'm looking for some pros/cons and what rig you are using it with? Thanks for your reply, 73 - Clint - WS1V __ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Relay Removal Results
Thanks to all who shared their experience and suggestions. Some interesting approaches indeed. I decided to try the spring-loaded solder sucker method, since one was available. It worked well enough (in conjunction with a bit of lead prodding) on all the ungrounded pins, but I couldn't get the grounded ones to stay hot long enough. As there were only two per relay I was able to get the relays out successfully by heating these pins only (one at a time, having cleaned out the other holes with the solder sucker), combined with gentle prying. All seems to have gone well as the K160RX they were in is now apparently operating normally. 73, Steve VE3SMA __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KK7P web
There is no need to use the archive.org copy of the page. The working URL is http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html - Rob KE7EAG K2 #5004 (almost finished) On Mon, 09 Jan 2006 06:10:55 -0800, Fabian Kurz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mon, Jan 09, 2006 at 10:34:35PM +0900, a.yoshida wrote: Is there any one who knows correct URL for the following. http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html archive.org has several versions of that website archvived, the last one being from February 2005 telling that the page has moved to the (now nonexisting) kk7p.com domain. But there is a version from October 2004, which can be found here: http://web.archive.org/web/20041011001751/http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html (long URL, I hope it gets through OK, if not: http://tinyurl.com/884wv ). 73, ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1?
Be sure to double-check both the no-load and loaded voltage output... it may be much greater a difference than you wish to work with. Ah, good catch Tom - it drops to under 13V under Tx load. I'll look for something else. I'd like to find a little laptop supply, but they tend to be higher current these days - trying to pare down my weight for the Spartan Sprint :-) 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Finally made first contact with K1
I'll jump on the end of this and report that I made my first contact as a General during last week's Spartan Sprint, after about a week or more of calling CQ in the evening. WA6AZP was calling CQ CQ SP pretty fast and it took me several rounds to a) copy his sign completely and b) get over my nerves enough to answer with my KX-1. Between the fairly strong QSB and my poor antenna, he never heard my repeated QRS, so we went several more rounds before I got a strong R R R from him. He went on with the contest and I shut down and went into the house to calm my nerves :-) I'm working on my antenna setup now, looking for that second contact ... perhaps it will be more than 10 miles away! 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1?
Chris et al: I know there is a lot bad said about switching power supply noise, but I've been using little 12V 4A switchers for a couple of years now and have never found noise a problem. Actually, I work in the electronics industry and have collected a number of these from several suppliers and have had no problems with any of them that I can recall. Typically these power supplies are a little bigger than a bar of soap and have an IEC power connector on one end and an output cable on the other. They are all switchers, and as mentioned are rated at 12V 4A output. They work great on the K2 and my SG-2020 running up to 12W or so output, possibly more. Regulation is pretty good ... typically better than 1/2 volt from receive to key-down. The latest batch I got are from Delta Electronics in China and are fully shielded with input and output RFI filtering including a ferrite core on the output cable just before the coaxial connector. These are all FCC Class B devices. Several even ha d exactly the right connector to plug right into the K2. Look around on surplus sites ... you can probably find plenty of these. The coaxial connector you want is 5.5mm outside, 2mm inside. If you buy one and find it noisy, you can bash me on this reflector but I've had no problems. If your shack is very near your antenna you may have more problems. My antennas are high (around 60') and my radios are in the basement, so there is good isolation between the power supply and the antennas. The All Electronics CAT# PS-1231 looks like it would work but you will have to change the connector. My point is, don't discount the little switchers. They're cheap, universal input (100 - 264 VAC, work anywhere in the world), small and light. If nothing else, good to have for travel. regards, Jim -- Original message -- From: Chris Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED] Be sure to double-check both the no-load and loaded voltage output... it may be much greater a difference than you wish to work with. Ah, good catch Tom - it drops to under 13V under Tx load. I'll look for something else. I'd like to find a little laptop supply, but they tend to be higher current these days - trying to pare down my weight for the Spartan Sprint :-) 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Relay Removal Results
A little hint with the spring loaded solder-sucker. Use an X-Acto knife and cut a little notch in the end of the tip so your soldering iron tip can stay on the joint while the sucker straddles the tip. That way you can heat the joint, stick the solder sucker over the tip of the iron, and suck out the solder. I've used mine like this for years. I hired a technician once and when he borrowed my solder sucker, he fixed the tip by cutting it flat again. I had to bring him up to speed on the better way. 73, jim -- Original message -- From: Steve Kavanagh [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks to all who shared their experience and suggestions. Some interesting approaches indeed. I decided to try the spring-loaded solder sucker method, since one was available. It worked well enough (in conjunction with a bit of lead prodding) on all the ungrounded pins, but I couldn't get the grounded ones to stay hot long enough. As there were only two per relay I was able to get the relays out successfully by heating these pins only (one at a time, having cleaned out the other holes with the solder sucker), combined with gentle prying. All seems to have gone well as the K160RX they were in is now apparently operating normally. 73, Steve VE3SMA __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer
Hello Daniel, As the Dons have spoken, let me add my $.02. The 1991 Handbook has a project in it for a 5 amp supply with variable voltage from 1.2 to 15 volts. It has a drawing (layout) for a board with the regulator on it. It is a good article because it uses almost all Radio Shack parts. It uses 2 transformers to get the 5 amps. One would be fine for you. It uses the LM371K in a metal case for regulation. Since it is a 5 amp circuit the design uses a pass transistor. You could eliminate a lot of the circuitry and just use it direct from the regulator since you only want 1.5 amps. If you can't find another ham in your area that has the 1991 ARRL handbook I would say try a library. It is in Chapter 27 Power Supply Projects. The circuit board for the regulator circuit is very simple and easy to make. I made one 14 years ago and it is still working. BTW, your Dad's wall wart is probably a switcher and the source of the noise. 73 de Bob K3YT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If your shack is very near your antenna you may have more problems. My antennas are high (around 60') and my radios are in the basement, so there is good isolation between the power supply and the antennas. This is the key point! Your antennas are probably fed with coax with baluns if needed, or properly installed balanced line. In my opinion, most problems with switcher noise are caused by the noise energy being conducted to the 'ground' of the AC line, then flowing along the feedline in common mode, and then getting picked up by the antenna. Noise energy can also be radiated by house wiring, etc. Things like verticals near the house, random wires, etc. are problematic for use with switchers (or around computers, etc.). -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: 14.9v to KX1
You get lousy regulation that way. Why not just add a little regulator? jim -- Original message -- From: Douglas Fagan [EMAIL PROTECTED] I found the same on several of the higher current wall warts I wanted to use on my KX1. To drop the voltage to something I considered acceptable I put a few silicon diodes in series with the wall wart supply. Each diode drops the voltage about .7 volts. Has worked ok for me. de Doug, KJ4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Finally made first contact with K1
I think you'll find it far more satisfying to ANSWER a CQ rather than to CALL cq. a) You don't have to copy a horrible fist. If it's horrible, find another. b) You get an answer in one or two tries, not hundreds (ymmv). You know the path is open one way, and it's probably reciprocal. c) It's far less depressing (for me, anyhow). An unanswered CQ is no fun at all. So, answer one! Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip I made my first contact [...] after about a week or more of calling CQ in the evening. /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Real DX in 40m
Dear all I am still a bit nervous and excited but I wanted to report good news to the list. A few minutes ago I worked VK6BN in Swan View running 4W out from my K2 an using just a simple OCF dipole (Fritzel FD3) which was hung on Sunday with the help of Santi, EA3CKX (K2 # 1724) and Quim, EA3AEK. The band was quite crowded but Alan answered immediately with QRP??. Excellent ears and skills by his side. Tonight I will for sure have a nice sleep. Best 72 de Vicenç, EA3ADV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.9V to KX1?
Hi, Chris. Ah, good catch Tom - it drops to under 13V under Tx load. I'll look for something else. 13V is still well within the specified range. As long as that 13V is developing enough RF does it matter that its 2V below the RX voltage? If it were dropping to 7V on transmit I'd be more worried :) - Martin. ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Real DX in 40m
Nervous and excited, you should be, wow! What a note to put into the log. And treasure for time to come. What a thrill. Just reading it and thinking about it, makes me itch to git on the air. May many more like this come along too. Good hunting, and pouncing, --... ...-- Dale - WC7S qrp in Wy From: Vicenç [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Real DX in 40m Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 23:55:13 +0100 Dear all I am still a bit nervous and excited but I wanted to report good news to the list. A few minutes ago I worked VK6BN in Swan View running 4W out from my K2 an using just a simple OCF dipole (Fritzel FD3) which was hung on Sunday with the help of Santi, EA3CKX (K2 # 1724) and Quim, EA3AEK. The band was quite crowded but Alan answered immediately with QRP??. Excellent ears and skills by his side. Tonight I will for sure have a nice sleep. Best 72 de Vicenç, EA3ADV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 VCO, wrong frequency
I'm building K2 #5290. Have made it through the second session on the RF board (Assembly Part II). The VCO freq is wrong The PLL Ref Osc range is 12098 to 12084. I'm seeing a stable 12445 on the VCO (TP1), VFO set for 4000.1. I've eyeballed the RF board carefully with a magifying lens didn't find anything conclusive. I looked at U4 with a scope and am not sure if I'm seeing my bug, have my setup wrong, or the voltage chart is wrong. U4 pin 5 (SDO) is zero and goes high (+5) with pulses on band +/- (measurement chart says +5) U4 pin 7 (SCK) is +5 and goes low with pulses on band +/- (measurement chart says 0) Given that the MCU can 'move' the PLL Ref Osc, that pretty well says that the SDO and SCK lines are OK, right? All the rest of the pins on U4 look reasonable per the measurement chart. I've double checked L30, T5, D23-D26 I suspect I'm barking up the wrong tree with the SDO and SCK lines... Where next? Thanks! 73, Bill N2BC PS: My first big kit was an SB-100 in 1965 I think. It's first power on was much more dramatic than the K2. Smoke curling up from the chassis. A hunk of miniature coax carrying low B+ was shorted. That's when I figured my homebrew power supply should probably have some fuses ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT tip longevity
On 1/10/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I use a PTF7 solder tip on my WTCPT and recently found that after about 5 minutes of use, the tip suddenly starts to develop a thick char at the end and makes the solder turn dark. I use a Brillo pot scrubber (copper, not plastic). Just stick the tip in and work it up and down 3 or 4 times. Works real fine, lasts a long time. Bob Baxter AA7EQ Walnut Ridge, Ar. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT tip longevity
Me too, I stuck the pad in an old plastic cup a long time ago and haven't had a problem since Tom WB2QG K2 1103 Long Island, NY - Original Message - From: Bob Baxter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 10:45 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT tip longevity On 1/10/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I use a PTF7 solder tip on my WTCPT and recently found that after about 5 minutes of use, the tip suddenly starts to develop a thick char at the end and makes the solder turn dark. I use a Brillo pot scrubber (copper, not plastic). Just stick the tip in and work it up and down 3 or 4 times. Works real fine, lasts a long time. Bob Baxter AA7EQ Walnut Ridge, Ar. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] a story that will have a happy ending, soon (slightly OT)
I was surfing on eBay and found auction #5852424318 for a partially-built K2, under circumstances I have not seen before -- and certainly wish that it was not so. The rig is being sold by the owner's widow. I did not know the sk N9PT myself, but I'd bet a dollar he'd have wanted that rig completed and put on the air. I wish I could buy it myself and do just that! Hopefully the new owner will come on here and let us know when this particular radio is finished. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Partially finished K2 on ebay
FWIW it looks like it's almost done. If you're looking for a shortcut to a K2 this could be your ticket. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2/100 #4941 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Jackson Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:18 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] I was surfing on eBay and found auction #5852424318 for a partially-built K2, under circumstances I have not seen before -- and certainly wish that it was not so. The rig is being sold by the owner's widow. I did not know the sk N9PT myself, but I'd bet a dollar he'd have wanted that rig completed and put on the air. I wish I could buy it myself and do just that! Hopefully the new owner will come on here and let us know when this particular radio is finished. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
