Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Filter (OP1) question ...

2006-06-24 Thread Ken Dailey
I just wanted to post a general thankyou note to all the people who  
sent helpful hints to try and resolve the problem I was having with  
the SSB filter in my K2.  It turns out that I'd installed D4 and D5  
on the SSB board backwards (doh!).


Anyway, lots of useful tips pointed me quickly in that direction - so  
now the problem is resolved. (:-)


Many thanks all!

Ken, G0RVH


--
Ken Dailey





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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Linear Amp Driving Power

2006-06-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roy,

A watt is a watt as far as the amp is concerned, and it could care less
whether the driving generator is a K2/100 or whatever brand transceiver.

Put your Bird wattmeter in-line between the transceiver and the amp, then
try driving to 1000 watts with the K2/100 and another transceiver - observe
the power on the Bird as well as the power indicated by the driving
transceiver in both cases.

If you do discover that the power indicated on the Bird is the same for both
transxeivers, then the wattmeter in the KPA100 may need to be calibrated
better.  But if there really is a difference in drive required from the
K2/100 vs. other transceivers, you should drag out a 'scope and do some real
investigation of the waveform purity from all your transceivers - you will
likely be looking for a parasitic from one of them.  Don't overlook RF
feedback problems.  Ideally you should operate the amp into a dummy load for
these tests to remove the RF feedback possibility from the situation.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Twelve watts output from my K2/100 on 75 meters will drive my
 Alpha 99 amp to 1000 watts.  My other two transceivers have to
 put out approx 35 watts to get 1000 watts out (which is normal
 driving power for this amp to put out 1000 watts).  I am using
 the same amp input coax on all transceivers which is approx 6
 feet in length.  The output of the linear goes to a AT4K tuner
 which tunes the coax feed line to 1:1.  All components are
 properly grounded.  I receive good audio reports with the
 amplified K2/100, so I don't think stray RF or a parasitic
 oscillation is causing this.  I can increase the length of the
 amp input coax, but I don't know what else I can do to normalize
 the drive power.  The amp has 50 ohm passive input.  The power
 displayed on the K2/100 is normal at all power levels and on all
 bands 160-10 meters and is verified with both the Bird 43
 wattmeter and the Array Solutions Power Master meter.  Any ideas
 anyone?  Roy Morris  W4WFB

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Re:[Elecraft] K2 Linear Amp Driving Power

2006-06-24 Thread Steve Kavanagh
Roy:

I assume you are probably making these
measurements/observations on CW, in which case I can't
add to what has already been suggested. 

However, if you are testing in SSB mode, there is
another possibility.  Some K2/100's have trouble
keeping the power down on SSB, especially on 80m.  The
ALC action is just not aggressive enough in these
unitsthey probably have a bit higher gain through
the transmit chain than most, resulting from
particularly hot transistors, etc.  This is
particularly obvious near the 10 W crossover between
the QRP final and the KPA100.  If I recall correctly,
mine gives about twice the output at the 11 watt
setting as it does at the 10 watt setting, even after
a mod to make the ALC more aggressive (which is
adequate to stop more serious over-power/distortion
problems at higher power settings).  

To check look at the K2 output power display; if you
see 30 watts peak on SSB on the display then you may
actually be getting around 30 watts rather than the 12
watts you have it set for. This problem does not
affect CW however; the actual/displayed power output
should be very close to the requested value.

73,
Steve VE3SMA

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Metering?

2006-06-24 Thread Fred (FL)


I saw a reference to a wattmeter in the KPA100?

Does the K2's KPA100 option, include a wattmeter,
beyond what metering is now present in my K2's
relative reading LED multi-segment indicator?

What comes with the KPA100, in this area?  If I
bought the KPA100 option, for my K2 - could I get
a accurate indication if I'm putting out 10watts,
38 watts or 100 watts?  Or if the SWR presented to
the KPA100 is 1:1 or 11.6:1?

I'm really trying to decide whether to bite on
the KPA100 higher-power K2 option.

Thanks,
Fred N3CSY
shores of St. Lawrence ...

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Metering?

2006-06-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fred N3CSY asked:
I saw a reference to a wattmeter in the KPA100?

Does the K2's KPA100 option, include a wattmeter,
beyond what metering is now present in my K2's
relative reading LED multi-segment indicator?

What comes with the KPA100, in this area?  If I
bought the KPA100 option, for my K2 - could I get
a accurate indication if I'm putting out 10watts,
38 watts or 100 watts?  Or if the SWR presented to
the KPA100 is 1:1 or 11.6:1?

I'm really trying to decide whether to bite on
the KPA100 higher-power K2 option.

--

Yes, the KPA100 includes a built-in directional coupler that monitors the
SWR at the output of the K2 instead of the simple RF Voltmeter circuit the
QRP K2 uses. The output of the directional coupler provides the ALC feedback
signal to keep the power level at the requested level set by the POWER
control. Also, in TUNE the K2 LCD displays the SWR at the output. In TUNE
the LCD will have a display something like 95  1.2 --1 indicating 95 watts
with an SWR of 1.2:1. The power is displayed using two digits, so it's to
the nearest watt above 10 watts and to the nearest 0.1 watt below 10 watts.
It works across the whole power range of the K2 whether the KPA100 is
enabled or not, as long as it's installed in the K2. 

Accuracy? I haven't measured it closely. It depends upon how it's
calibrated. Mine is certainly within 10%, which I consider *great* for any
RF power meter. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] 99 TO GO

2006-06-24 Thread John Wiener

My first ever DX:
HA7UG, Laci near Budapest on ten watts to a dipole on 30M!

Life's too short for anything but QRP

John
AB8WH
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[Elecraft] LP-100 wattmeter kit update

2006-06-24 Thread Larry Phipps


I have been delivering LP-100 kits for a couple weeks now, and should 
wrap up deliveries of the first production run in the next 2 weeks. I am 
gathering pre-orders for the second run now. For more information on 
this nifty kit visit my website, www.telepostinc.com, and click on the 
LP-100 link.


Also check out the link on the LP-100 page to the Gallery, with 
pictures of assembled LP-100s along with comments from the builders. 
There are also links in the left-hand sidebar of all my web pages to 
Downloads and LP-100 Update where the LP-100 windows control 
software and flash upgradeable firmware reside.


I have also created an LP-100 support group, which can be accessed at  
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LP-100/


73,
Larry N8LP


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[Elecraft] YX0LIX K2/100 Photos

2006-06-24 Thread n7on
Visit the website of the recent Aves Island DXpedition (YX0A/YX0LIX),
click the PHOTOS AVES 2006 button, and you'll see a few photos of
K2/100's in DXpedition mode.  They're on the third page of photos.

It looks like the K2's are resting atop switching power supplies--that's
a good advertisement for whatever power supplies they were using (SEC
1223's?).

73,

John, N7ON K2/100 #5023
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[Elecraft] YX0A/YX0LIX URL

2006-06-24 Thread n7on
Forgot to post the YX0A/YX0LIX  K2/100 photos URL:

http://www.yv0.info/

73,

John, N7ON K2/100 #5023
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Metering?

2006-06-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

Yes, the KPA100 (and the KAT2 and the KAT100) contain a directional coupler
type wattmeter to indicate the forward power and the SWR.  These wattmeters
remove the necessity for operating the K2 into a 50 ohm non-reactive load in
order to obtain power accuracy.  The forward power output of these
wattmeters is used to control the K2 power output as well as display it on
the LED (and on the LCD during TUNE).

These internal wattmeters need to be calibrated with some external reference
power metering if they are expected to be accurate.  I measure the RF
Voltage across a 1% precision 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load for the
calibration, and I feel I can calibrate the wattmeter to within 5% using
that method.  Many wattmeters available to hams are simply not that
accurate.  Even the Bird specs its accuracy at 5% of full scale ONLY after
proper calibration - and with a 100 watt slug, that means the power reading
can be up to 5 watts off at any power level.  Know your instruments and know
just how much to trust what they tell you.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I saw a reference to a wattmeter in the KPA100?

 Does the K2's KPA100 option, include a wattmeter,
 beyond what metering is now present in my K2's
 relative reading LED multi-segment indicator?

 What comes with the KPA100, in this area?  If I
 bought the KPA100 option, for my K2 - could I get
 a accurate indication if I'm putting out 10watts,
 38 watts or 100 watts?  Or if the SWR presented to
 the KPA100 is 1:1 or 11.6:1?

 I'm really trying to decide whether to bite on
 the KPA100 higher-power K2 option.

 Thanks,
 Fred N3CSY

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[Elecraft] Anyone got their KXB3080?

2006-06-24 Thread J. Coote
I downloaded the KXB3080 manual and had some questions:

How hard is it to put together for a KX-1 that has already had the KXB30 30M
unit and auto antenna tuner installed?

Has anyone found some universal wire antenna lengths that will work with the
KX-1 and internal antenna tuner - over all four (80, 40, 30, 20) bands?

Thanks,

Jay
W6CJ


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RE: [Elecraft] Anyone got their KXB3080?

2006-06-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jay, W6CJ wrote:

I downloaded the KXB3080 manual and had some questions:

How hard is it to put together for a KX-1 that has already had the KXB30 30M
unit and auto antenna tuner installed?

Has anyone found some universal wire antenna lengths that will work with the
KX-1 and internal antenna tuner - over all four (80, 40, 30, 20) bands?

--

As the manual indicates, the first step is to remove the KXB30 module if one
is installed. Then it's the same process as for a KX1 that did not have the
KXB30 module. 

The KXAT1 tuner just unplugs, as described in the manual. The manual shows
how to install a simple jumper that routes RF to the antenna jack for
testing until you're done with the upgrade and ready to replace the KXAT1. 

There's more to the KXB3080 upgrade than for just the KXB30 because for the
KXB3080 installation the whole receiver input circuit is modified. It's
changed from a simple capacitively-coupled input to a transformer-coupled
input.  What you get for the effort is a receiver with slightly improved
performance on all the bands, not just on 80. 

I've seen some posts of people working on combinations of wire lengths for
an 80/40/30/20 meter antenna that the KXAT1 can match easily, but I haven't
followed them closely. I'll leave it to one of those who actually did that
work to answer that question. 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] YX0A/YX0LIX URL

2006-06-24 Thread John [K7SVV]

Those were some great photos.  Does anyone know what kind of camera they used?


On 6/24/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Forgot to post the YX0A/YX0LIX  K2/100 photos URL:

http://www.yv0.info/

73,

John, N7ON K2/100 #5023
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--
John   [K7SVV]
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RE: [Elecraft] Anyone got their KXB3080?

2006-06-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jay,

As you no doubt noticed when reading the instructions, the KXB3080 does take
a bit more care and patience than most.  In fact, I would rate it as the
most critical construction item that Elecraft has produced.  It takes care
and careful attention to the instructions if one expects everything to fit
together and work when complete.

After doing 12 of these upgrades, and repairing 3 others, I can easily do
the job in a couple hours now, but the first couple times it took a lot
longer to get it right and refine my technique.  I do recommend Mychael's
pre-wound toroids because they are a bit tricky to wind and tin the leads
properly.  Mychael's price is $9 per set plus $6 for shipping based on the
latest info I have, and I consider it a bargain.

If you need me to do the KXB3080 install for you, I charge $39 plus $10 for
pre-wound toroids (I order in bulk and pass along the savings) and $16 for
return packing and insured shipping - total $65.  I try to turn these around
in a couple days so you are not without your KX1 for a long time.

The only advice I can offer on the antenna is to stay away from lengths that
are 1/2 wavelength on any band for either the radiating element or
counterpoise wires (assuming direct connect to the KX1 with no tuner - or
feedline plus radiator lengths) - the W3EDP lengths of 85 ft and 17 feet
have been found good by several folks, and I can say that my doublet 22 ft
per side with a 25 ft parallel transmission line feedline (47 ft total per
side) works nicely on 80, 40 and 20, although it is getting close to a half
wave on 30 meters where I have to experiment with adding or subtracting a
bit of feedline.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I downloaded the KXB3080 manual and had some questions:

 How hard is it to put together for a KX-1 that has already had
 the KXB30 30M
 unit and auto antenna tuner installed?

 Has anyone found some universal wire antenna lengths that will
 work with the
 KX-1 and internal antenna tuner - over all four (80, 40, 30, 20) bands?

 Thanks,

 Jay
 W6CJ


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[Elecraft] K2/100 w/LDG FT-Meter

2006-06-24 Thread Bert Craig
Call me old school but I've always been a sucker for an analog S/RF meter. 
I absolutely LOVE my K2/100 and was wondering if anybody has tried using 
LDG's new FT-Meter in conjunction with their K2? Thanks in advance.


Here's the link:

http://www.ldgelectronics.com/FT-Meter_pictures.html

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI
FISTS #9384/CC #1736
QRP ARCI #11782 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 w/LDG FT-Meter

2006-06-24 Thread Larry Phipps


I think that only works with the FT-857 and -897. I connects to an 
analog meter output on the rig.


Larry N8LP



Bert Craig wrote:
Call me old school but I've always been a sucker for an analog S/RF 
meter. I absolutely LOVE my K2/100 and was wondering if anybody has 
tried using LDG's new FT-Meter in conjunction with their K2? Thanks in 
advance.


Here's the link:

http://www.ldgelectronics.com/FT-Meter_pictures.html

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI
FISTS #9384/CC #1736
QRP ARCI #11782
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[Elecraft] K2 Linear Amp Driving Power

2006-06-24 Thread Roy Morris
This is a followup... 
I put the linear output into a dummy load and tuned the amp to 1500 watts.  The 
K2/100 was reading approx 50 watts on the LCD screen and the K2 LEDs would 
indicate 4 to 5 bars in the RF mode.  This is good.  If I dropped the power to 
1000 watts the LCD screen would indicate anywhere from 16 to 25 watts and the 
LEDs would indicate 1 to 2 bars.  I switched the tuner from the dummy load to 
the antenna position and it did not make any difference (it worked the same).  
This was done on 75 and 20 meters.  I believe the DAC converter is affected by 
the strong RF field; however, the Bird 43 did indicate the same power out of 
the K2/100 as the K2s LCD screen indicated.  The K2 power knob becomes somewhat 
touchy at the 1000 watt level, and the K2 LCD power indication seems to get 
more realistic as the power goes on up to the 1500 watt level.  The K2VCOSHLDKT 
has been installed.  I have moved the K2 approx 3 feet away from the linear 
amp, but it is on the same side as the amps power transformer.  The K2 is also 
about 3 feet from the Astron VS35M.  (The foldback current limiting setting on 
the power supply is set fully clockwise)  Maybe magnetic fields can cause funny 
things to happen.  Roy Morris  W4WFB No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Metering?

2006-06-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
One thing I overlooked about your question about SWR metering: it only
indicates the SWR up to 9.9:1.

Ron 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Linear Amp Driving Power

2006-06-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roy,

Your follow-up brings more questions than it answers.

It could just be the knee of the diode curve for the diodes in the wattmeter
of the KPA100 - or since the Bird agrees with the K2 display, it may be that
your amp is not really linear or the wattage indication on the output side
is incorrect.

Try the same thing with another transceiver driving the linear (with the
Bird in-line as with the K2) and see how the amp responds with the same
power inputs as indicated on the Bird - that will at least give you a basis
for comparison (but not really yield valid measurements - see below).

BTW, for the output to go from 1500 watts to 1000, if 1500 watts takes 50
watts, then the output with 25 watts should be 750 watts unless the amp is
not working in its linear range.  1000 watts out should require 33.3 watts
input.

How accurate is your Bird?  When was it calibrated last?  How did you
calibrate the KPA100 wattmeter?  Do you know how much you can trust the
output indication from your other transceivers?  The difference between 25
watts and 33 watts is about 33% and could be easily attributed to an
accumulation of tolerances.  If accuracy counts, everything in the system
must be properly calibrated and characterized to before drawing any
conclusions.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 This is a followup...
 I put the linear output into a dummy load and tuned the amp to
 1500 watts.  The K2/100 was reading approx 50 watts on the LCD
 screen and the K2 LEDs would indicate 4 to 5 bars in the RF mode.
  This is good.  If I dropped the power to 1000 watts the LCD
 screen would indicate anywhere from 16 to 25 watts and the LEDs
 would indicate 1 to 2 bars.  I switched the tuner from the dummy
 load to the antenna position and it did not make any difference
 (it worked the same).  This was done on 75 and 20 meters.  I
 believe the DAC converter is affected by the strong RF field;
 however, the Bird 43 did indicate the same power out of the
 K2/100 as the K2s LCD screen indicated.  The K2 power knob
 becomes somewhat touchy at the 1000 watt level, and the K2 LCD
 power indication seems to get more realistic as the power goes on
 up to the 1500 watt level.  The K2VCOSHLDKT has been installed.
 I have moved the K2 approx 3 feet away from the linear amp, but
 it is on the same side as the amps power transformer.  The K2 is
 also about 3 feet from the Astron VS35M.  (The foldback current
 limiting setting on the power supply is set fully clockwise)
 Maybe magnetic fields can cause funny things to happen.  Roy
 Morris  W4WFB

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Re: [Elecraft] Anyone got their KXB3080?

2006-06-24 Thread Bob Nielsen


On Jun 24, 2006, at 10:16 AM, Alexandra Carter wrote:

Ugh. The 30m module kicked my butt, had to install it 2X plus lots  
and lots of fiddling around with it.
I can't imagine doing the 3080 now. I guess for multi-band the  
easiest was always the NorCal Sierra, plug 'em in and plop! there's  
another band lol. 73 de Alex NS6Y


Of course the Sierra was designed by a recognized master of the  
craft!  The band plugins remind me of the old National HRO series  
receivers.


I still have an unbuilt 30m board for my KX-1.  I should hurry and  
finish it before these 67-year-old eyes get any worse.


73 - Bob, N7XY


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[QRP-L] WTB: KX1

2006-06-24 Thread Ed - K9EW

Hello,

I'm looking for a KX1 - built, partially built, or still in kit form.  If
you have one you would like to find a new home for, please contact me
off-list.

Tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft K - Twins

2006-06-24 Thread James T. Jim Rogers, W4ATK
I have for sale the following:

K2 s/n 4028 full power thru 12M, 8W on 10M into 50 ohm dummy 
load.
latest revision software.
KSB2
K160RX
KIO2
KNB2
KDSP2
KPA100(w/upgrades)/KAT100 in EC2 enclosure(includes 
interconnecting
cables).

$1750 to Continental US only. Contact me off reflector if interested.

Jim, W4ATK



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[Elecraft] QSK-5 T/R switch

2006-06-24 Thread Brent Sutphin
Is anyone using the Ameritron QSK-5 with their K2/100?  If so I need to hear 
from you. 
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[Elecraft] newbie questions

2006-06-24 Thread Steve Kirk/ KW5TX

forgive the newbie questions pls...but

1. Is there a menu item for Carrier Insert for SSB ?  (frequency offset 
to change the tone of the TX Audio)
2. Is there just the one menu for Mic Gain? ( 1 (att) , 2 (att off) 
and 3   (att off)maybe im missing something ... i sorta need an in 
between setting

3. What is a good ...mid priced...Soldering Station Brand ?


thanks
Steve
KW5TX

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RE: [Elecraft] newbie questions

2006-06-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

If I interpret your first question correctly regarding 'frequency offset':
The 'frequency offset' for SSB would be the BFO setting for the FL1 filter
position - also note that you must set the SSB FL1 filter width to OP1 -
otherwise the transmitted passband can be quite skewed.
The FL1 BFO frequency is used as the carrier oscillator frequency during
transmit - that is true for all modes, not just SSB (there is a separate set
of 4 filters for each mode).  During CW receive, the frequency is offset by
the amount of your chosen sidetone pitch, but on SSB, there is no offset
inserted, the transmmit frequency is the difference (or sum) of the BFO and
the VCO frequencies.  This adjustment is covered in the BFO alignment
sections of the manual(s), but most of us refer to it as 'Filter Alignment'
or 'CAL PLL' and is most easily accomplished with a wideband noise generator
while observing the resulting passband with an audio Spectrum Analyzer type
display (Spectrogram is one example of such an analyzer, it uses the
computer soundcard to do a FFT of the input signal).  The K2 Dial
Calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com has the filter
alignment process (CAL FIL) contained within it.

The K2 mic gain is as you describe it.  The Speech Processor chip does a
great job of limiting the audio under normal conditions with a typical
amateur class mic having adequate (normal) output.  If you are using a Heil
mic with the HC4 or HC5 elements, you may need additional gain because those
elements output is 6 to 10 dB below the average ham mic - a preamp is the
best solution if that is your chosen mic.  You should not normally need
anything between the mic gain setting if the speech processor is doing its
job.

As for soldering stations, I like the Hakko 936, but there are lesser priced
alternatives as well as more expensive.  Had you stated your price target
range in dollars, I could offer better alternatives.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 forgive the newbie questions pls...but

 1. Is there a menu item for Carrier Insert for SSB ?  (frequency offset
 to change the tone of the TX Audio)
 2. Is there just the one menu for Mic Gain? ( 1 (att) , 2 (att off)
 and 3   (att off)maybe im missing something ... i sorta need an in
 between setting
 3. What is a good ...mid priced...Soldering Station Brand ?


 thanks
 Steve
 KW5TX


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[Elecraft] Free: N0SS Noise Generator Board

2006-06-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Going through some old boxes and discovered a circuit board and instruction 
sheet for building the N0SS Broadband Noise Generator. This is not a kit but 
a circuit board only. See Tom's document at 
http://www.n0ss.net/noise_source.pdf.

It's free (including postage) to the first reply from someone who will 
actually build the generator and use it. I mail it anywhere in the world via 
regular surface mail.

Darrell
K2 #5093

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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[Elecraft] KX1 Trouble

2006-06-24 Thread Jason Davis

Hey Guys,

I was trying to operate Field Day with my KX1 this year, but quickly ran
into  trouble with the KX1.  It seems that the paddle is stuck down, so that
I constantly transmit.  When it first started and I realized that I could
not stop it, I assumed there was short somewhere on the paddle so I quickly
disconnected it from the the KX1.  That did not help, so I shut the rig
off.  I tried turning it back on but it was still transmitting. Next I tried
to reset to the default values, by holding the Menu and Band buttons down
during power up as described in the manual and that seemed to stop the
transmitting.  However, the BAT LO warning came on soon after, so I assumed
the trouble was somehow caused by low battery voltage.  Then the constant
transmitting started again.  I tried removing the batteries and connecting
the rig to the power supply and reseting to default values again, but this
time it did not stop the transmitting.  I am now stuck with a KX1 that will
only transmit a random series of dahs.  Has anyone ran into problems like
this, or know where I should start looking for trouble???

Thanks,

Jason
n9avg
kx1 #1491
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