[Elecraft] There's A Lot New at www.unpcbs.com
Before you start building your new K2, be sure to visit www.unpcbs.com to learn about our well-proven rework-free "Plug & Play Ready" assembly method. Our completely revised Companion Guide temporarily carries a precautionary "beta test" label. We expect to remove it in the next week or two. We have added a brand new webpage which lists IPC J-STD Class 2 (Dedicated Service) rated builders for hire. We are now listed in the eHam Reviews database under "QRP Accessories". Visit www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6372 to see what our customers have said, or to add your own comments. Please email us if you have suggestions for new Rework Eliminator(TM) K2 accessory products. Two that are under consideration are: 1) a remote mic configuration header. 2) a trimmer pot replacement for RF-R98 (ALC). For those of you who are still shopping for your first K2, the "Buying Your First K2" page on our website links to an updated K2 options tutorial which you might find useful. 73 & Happy 2007, Gary KI4GGX ~~~ Rework Eliminator, Rework Eliminators, and unpcbs ~ are trademarks of Ken Kaplan (WB2ART) and Gary Hvizdak (KI4GGX) ~ ~~~ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PSK31 update please
I played around with PSK31 a few years ago but lost interest. Now I'd like to try again. Is MixW still one of the best programs? I see Digipan is still free, but apparently not updated for a while. I'd like to hear recommendations from fellow Elecrafters. Tnx es 73, Randy, KS4L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Noise Blanker Works!
Happy New Year Everybody! Hey, this noise blanker thingy really works. The kids (college students) living in the apartment just under mine got a neon sign for Christmas "BAR IS OPEN" that flashes on and off every now and then. This produces a raspy buzz which raises heck with the K2. Expecting no result, I punched the [NB] key and about fell off my chair... No Noise! Who would of thought, after reading the reflector, that this little board taking up room in my K2 would have had any effect at all ;-). Many thanks to the grand designers of the marvelous KNB2. 73s all! Bob K7HBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re RFC 15 miniature?
Bob, I have just finished my K2 a few days ago and there is a lot I can relate to your question about RFC15. First and most important, these chokes are very fragile and can open up quite easily just by flexing the leads too much. Second I also found the size of these chokes from brown to green body is not that much. I chose the brown body 100 mh choke to install as it was slightly smaller. To my demise I couldn't get the PLL circuit to work properly and after calling Elecraft they brought my attention to both RFC15 and C88. When I checked I found the choke open. I replaced the choke and the receiver worked very well but I seem to have a PLL instability around 7180 KHZ. I was then advised to remove RFC 15 and replace it with a wire and be sure C88's leads were short. The problem was not solved. I inserted a ferrite bead on a wire that took the place or RFC15 and replace C88 (60 pf) with a 100 pf capacitor and the problem is gone. It is my understanding that not all the K2's have this problem but several must have because I got many replies concerning this problem. Note: Before I started assembly of the K2, I checked all the chokes out with a digital Ohm meter to verify they were not resistors. They all measured very low resistance so the chokes were good before I mounted them. Check to make sure RFC-15 is still a low resistance after you solder it in. and check around 7175 to 7185 KHZ for instabilities in the VCO. Good luck and have fun Dave KD1NA To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi Folks, I am building #5930 and I'm at the point of installing C91, C88 and RFC 15 on the bottom of the rf board at U4. The manual talks about a miniature 100 uH choke, much smaller than the other 100 uH chokes and with a tan body. I have 4 green bodied and one tan bodied 100 uH choke, but the tan bodied one is pretty close to the same size as the green ones, if any thing a little bigger. I have no miniature chokes at all I'm sure I can solder it to the indicated location, but is this something I should be concerned about? Bernie W1AZ asked this same question on the list back in Sept. but I can't see where anyone answered him. Thanks in advance, Bob K6GGO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Heavy-weight KX1!
Hello all, Yes my pimped-out KX1 now weighs in at just under one pound! I installed a K6XX Visual CW Indicator, the power modification and now 6ea 3.7V AA batteries in the two AA holders to form a 1.5ah 11.8v internal battery. I just can't fit any more into my KX1! I'll put my KX1 Battery Modification on my website soon. http://www.wa3wsj.com/KX1.html 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SKN - REPORT YOUR RESULTS!
Folks, Now that SKN is over, please report your results to ARRL ASAP. There's a short deadline to report. You can do it online, or just jot down some comments and send to Hq. Even if you only made one QSO, report it! Without support, activities like SKN will simply go away. 73 es HNY de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Test
This is a test Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Standoffs between heat sink and board - NOT REQUIRED
Guys - There is no problem here. The recessed area on the KPA100 heatsink is actually exactly where it should be with regards to the height of the other standoff locations around the edge of the heatsink. The recessed area is will definitely vary from heatsink to heatsink. The reason it may be recessed more on some heatsinks than others is due the normal bowing of the heatsink during the extrusion process. The machining actually gets the mounting point back to where it should be. :-) The heatsink on the KPA100 is milled on a precision CNC (computer numerically controlled) machine. Every KPA100 heatsink is milled just like all the others. (The milling process on every heatsink is referenced to the same corner on a standard fixture.) If a heatsink is bowed slightly more than others the CNC machine will mill this point down to match where it should be with regards to the others. Also, the larger pc boards like the one on the KPA100 are frequently bowed slightly. Pulling them flat a small amount when screwing them down will not cause any problems. Please do not add any washers in this recessed area. 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft Don Wilhelm wrote: Ben, Every KPA100 heatsink is milled in that area to remove part of the raised platform that the PA transistors mount on and still allow for the standoff. Just how much below the lower adjacent surface (large lower area) has your heatsink been milled? In most cases, it is only a tiny bit (1/64 inch or less), and adding a washer would make the top of the standoff too high. The KPA00 board will tolerate some flex with no harm, particularly in the area you are speaking of. If your heatsink has been milled much deeper than that, you should contact Scott or Brian at Elecraft and discuss the situation. Perhaps a digital photo would help. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am slowly progressing on my KPA100. I am at the part where the board and heat sink are temporarily mounted together to provide the proper spacing for soldering the final transistors. The five standoffs that go between the board and the heat sink are all 3/16", however, the heat sink has a machined depression around the hole for the standoff that is directly behind the center of the rear panel when assembled. Unless I missed it, the manual states I should not use a washer or lock washer on any of the standoffs between the heat sink and the board either on this initial assembly, or on the final assembly. This being the case, there is a gap between the board and this particular standoff. When I add the additional standoffs for mounting the shield later on, this will either prevent me from snugging the standoff down on this particular stud, or force me to warp the board at this point in order to get it snug. Surely this cannot be the case. While I haven't measured it, the depth of the machined depression in the heat sink would lead me to believe that a washer or lock washer is intended to be used either between the heat sink and the standoff, or between the standoff and the board during final assembly. Anyone have any insight on this? -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] I changed K2 R98 to 1K - not good?
Well, I have had the experience! Sometimes the orange band looks a lot like a red band ... and I have seen 'brown' bands that were really a dark red. I let the smoke out of one of those once. Don K7FJ --- Don, you are right on the money! The resistor I put in was 10K, not 1K! Ahhhggg! I went back and tried a 1K. Now i get very stable full output on all bands. 10 Meters is giving 95 watts into a dummy load. That's plenty. Now, back to special event station K1Y SKN operations ... - Keith N1AS - - k2 5411.ssb.100 - From: Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'll bet you find out that the 1 K you put in was actually some other value .. or .. something happened you did not plan (cold solder joint?). If the ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DK9SQ Pole Modification
Another way to do this: To attach a wire to the end of a fishing pole like the DK9SQ I tape the wire to a two inch piece of small diameter polyethylene tubing. This is slipped over the end of the pole and the taper of the pole holds it in position. Choose a diameter small enough to fit as close to the tip as you want. Easy to remove, and spreads the forces out over the material to reduce chance of tip damage. -- Alan, wb6zqz -- www.AntennaLaunchers.com At 10:14 AM 1/1/2007, Ron Polityka wrote: Hello, Today I went to Cabela's and picked up a replacement fishing rod tip to make a modification to my DK9SQ pole. I super glue or you can epoxy it to the top. Now I have a place to hang the vertical wire. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Upgrade for KPA100
The upgrade improves the overall stability of the design. Most KPA100s are FB as is, but variations in how some KPA100s were built (particularly the exact position of RFC10 at the antenna connector at the output) and apparently some situations where normal parts tolerances added up all in one "direction" caused a few amplifiers to exhibit instability on one or more bands under various conditions. It's a straightforward and easy upgrade to do. If you have any question at all about your KPA100's performance, I recommend doing it. It's good that you have the shield upgrade installed. That is important to do as well. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Tindle Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 5:14 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Upgrade for KPA100 I have been hors de combat for a year or two, notice that there is now an upgrade kit for KPA100, I have early KPA100 but have upgraded shield and I think put a resistor across an rfc. Have a feeling that there is some instability on 80 metres? What is the upgrade kit supposed to remedy or correct please?? 73 John GW3JXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] I changed K2 R98 to 1K - not good?
Don, you are right on the money! The resistor I put in was 10K, not 1K! Ahhhggg! I went back and tried a 1K. Now i get very stable full output on all bands. 10 Meters is giving 95 watts into a dummy load. That's plenty. Now, back to special event station K1Y SKN operations ... - Keith N1AS - - k2 5411.ssb.100 - From: Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'll bet you find out that the 1 K you put in was actually some other value .. or .. something happened you did not plan (cold solder joint?). If the ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 standoffs
Message: 27 Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2006 23:54:36 -0500 From: "Dave & Jeanne Robertson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Standoffs between heat sink and board ... Ben, I just finished building my KPA100 and it is quite happy in the K2 at this time. I agree with your observation of the milled out hole on the heat sink. I tried placing a lock washer between the heat sink and standoff (against Elecraft instructions) which resulted in not having the screws on the KPA100 rear panel match the hole resulting in having to remove the heat sink from the KPA100 PCB and removing the lock washer. Afterwards the screw hole aligned perfectly. I do believe the board is warped a little because of the machine out portion of the heat sink but it seems necessary to match all the mounting screw holes. Anyone else have any ideas. I, too, found the island portion seemed a bit 'high', causing the KPA board to flex slightly upward during installation. I guess that insures 'good contact' between the transistors and the heat sink. :) I also found the RF shield being badly distorted when I followed the directions in the manual. Where it say: "Place a #4 split lock washer over each of the seven set screws." I found it reduced(but did not eliminate) the distortion of the RF shield when I omitted the lock washers from the two set screws that go under the standoffs on the transistor island. By the way, I find it MUCH easier to work with the KPA100 (test, install, remove, reinstall) IF I remove the right side panel from the K2 first and install that panel last. It is a trick that should be part of the directions in the manual Finally,[and unrelated to the KPA100] the Rework Eliminator is a great product. It came in handy when I needed to remove the KDSP2 to access TP3. I wonder why Elecraft doesn't just throw a RE pack in with every new K2 they ship and instruct the builder to practice their soldering by putting together the RE first. [and no, Gary didn't pay me to say this. I really think that the RE should go into every K2, until the options are added, and then be saved, in the original K2 box, along with the test probes and the QRP top cover, and the alignment tool, for times of need.] By the way, is K2 taller than Mt. Everest? Well, anyway, K2 gives 'peak' experience. -- -bz-"it is a beautiful day to be alive, isn't it?" [every day] [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chemistry.lsu.edu/bz 225-578-5381 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DK9SQ Pole Modification
Hello, Today I went to Cabela's and picked up a replacement fishing rod tip to make a modification to my DK9SQ pole. I super glue or you can epoxy it to the top. Now I have a place to hang the vertical wire. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get?
I try to compare my K2 to others when I get the chance. This helps show up flaws that wouldn't otherwise be apparent. For example, imine wasn't as "quiet" as had been reported by others, and I traced the problem to my having damaged the mixer on installation. The MDS was fine, but something (the modulation products from other signals perhaps) were causing a harsh noise.The DSP also started workiong better, as it had always had more noise to contend with. The funny thing is that I had ordered a replacement mixer (not a cheap part!) but since it looked difficult to remove, had put it off, because the MDS test was ok. It was the compare-and-listen test that told me something was wrong. Leigh/WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RFC 15 miniature?
Check here for more information about how to install those chokes: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder_Alert_Installing_Small_Chokes.htm Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 12:02 PM To: Bob Fish K6GGO; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RFC 15 miniature? Bob, Put the smaller tan bodied choke in for RFC15. Elecraft switched to the larger choke after a goodly number of them were destroyed during assembly - those ultra tiny ones do not permit much flexing of the lead next to the body. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi Folks, > I am building #5930 and I'm at the point of installing > C91, C88 and RFC 15 on the bottom of the rf board at U4. The manual > talks about a miniature 100 uH choke, much smaller than the other 100 > uH chokes and > with a tan body. I have 4 green bodied and one tan bodied 100 uH > choke, but the tan bodied one is pretty close to the > same size as the green ones, if any thing a little bigger. I have > no miniature chokes at all I'm sure I can > solder it to the indicated location, but is this something I should be > concerned about? Bernie W1AZ asked this same question on the list > back in Sept. > but I can't see where anyone answered him. > > Thanks in advance, > > Bob K6GGO > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 12/31/2006 12:47 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RTTY connection?
Dohn, Goggle on RTTY and you will find lots of links. http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Software/RTTY/ has a listing of several programs that are usable for RTTY. The soundcard/computer connections are the same as that used for PSK31, and can be either a simple set of connections or be rather complex. http://www.psk31.com/Hook_it_Up/hook_it_up.htm has links to several articles dealing with the interfacing - http://www.qsl.net/wm2u/psk31.html shows interface techniques ranging from super-simple to medium complexity. I recommend salvaging a couple transformers from defunct PC modems to use in the lines to the soundcard and either a transistor or optoisolator to detect the serial port RTS (or DTR) signal for keying the transceiver. The optoisolator allows the computer and transceiver grounds to be separated. The mechanical/electrical connections between your computer, proset and the transceiver are of your own choosing - there are many combinations that will work, I prefer to use a switch between the soundcard interface and the mic/headphones and I have built that into my soundcard interface box (my mic plugs into the interface box, but that is my choice). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Is it correct to assume that you must make up two jumpers in order to > connect RTTY? 1. One to connect audio output (from which jack?) on the K2 > to the Mic connector on the sound card, and 2., One from the speaker out > connector of the sound card to the Mic jack of the K2? > > > > I have the proset headphones connected to my K2. I do not use the large ¼ > with 1/8 adaptor for anything. The large ¼ portion of the > adaptor, which > came with the 1/8 insert, seems to serve no function. I plug > the headphone > jack of the headphones into the headphone jack of the K2. That > is the only > way I seem to get the headphones to work. I plug the gray 1/8 plug from > the headphones into the smaller 1/8 standalone jack in the adaptor in the > adaptor which came with the proset and that is the way it seems > to tx when I > key the keyer. > > > > My question is: If it does indeed require to jumpers from the soundcard, > where do I connect them to get RTTY to work. What portion of my proset > headphones connectors should not be connected when I achieve this? > > > I am using HRD and have been trying to use the PSK31 portion of > the program. > I also have digipan loaded on my computer and was going to try this > program as well. I am open to any suggestions for a RTTY program. > > > > Dohn N8EWY > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 12/31/2006 12:47 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RTTY connection?
Is it correct to assume that you must make up two jumpers in order to connect RTTY? 1. One to connect audio output (from which jack?) on the K2 to the Mic connector on the sound card, and 2., One from the speaker out connector of the sound card to the Mic jack of the K2? I have the proset headphones connected to my K2. I do not use the large ¼ with 1/8 adaptor for anything. The large ¼ portion of the adaptor, which came with the 1/8 insert, seems to serve no function. I plug the headphone jack of the headphones into the headphone jack of the K2. That is the only way I seem to get the headphones to work. I plug the gray 1/8 plug from the headphones into the smaller 1/8 standalone jack in the adaptor in the adaptor which came with the proset and that is the way it seems to tx when I key the keyer. My question is: If it does indeed require to jumpers from the soundcard, where do I connect them to get RTTY to work. What portion of my proset headphones connectors should not be connected when I achieve this? I am using HRD and have been trying to use the PSK31 portion of the program. I also have digipan loaded on my computer and was going to try this program as well. I am open to any suggestions for a RTTY program. Dohn N8EWY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:Subject: [Elecraft] Straight Key issue>
Hi Gil Just try to reseat the ICs.--Processor and the EEPROM chip. When I first built mine I didn't push them fully in then after moving / carrying the K2 around funny thiings happened .Reseat ICs and all is well. Of course You could forget to solder few joints and they may still work by contact , then later it became loose. moe MM0MRM > From: "Gil Stacy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [Elecraft] Straight Key issues on K2 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: William Koucky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Message-ID: > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed > > After a couple of months of not turning on K2, it has gone goofy. > Apparently > goofiness caught from OP by K2. > With HAND selected in INP menu, straight key properly wired, starts string > of dits when contacts closed. Same key I"ve used for 4 years without a > problem. Tried another, same thing. > After turning on set, INFO 80 msg. appeared. Restart, msg. disappeared. > Series of restarts normal. If I had to guess, bad solder joint. Unlike > wine, solder joints do not get better with age. Question is, where to > start? > > 73, Gil NN4CW > K2 3104s on K2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Upgrade for KPA100
I have been hors de combat for a year or two, notice that there is now an upgrade kit for KPA100, I have early KPA100 but have upgraded shield and I think put a resistor across an rfc. Have a feeling that there is some instability on 80 metres? What is the upgrade kit supposed to remedy or correct please?? 73 John GW3JXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] January 2007 Polar Bear Outing
Hello and Happy New Year, The QRP Polar Bears will be making their way out this coming weekend for some Full Moon fun. This will be a weekend of Camp-Run-a-MOC fun on the air. Jan. 5, 6 & 7, 2007. 9 Polar Bears will be activation Camp-Run-a-MOC at the Mohican Outdoor Center in the Delaware Water Gap on the Appalachian Trail in NJ. Check out www.n3epa.org and go to the Polar Bear Run link and then to January 2007 link. There will be a Special Event N2P station on the air, for more information on the N2P station please go to http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBear2006.html or http://www.arrl.org/contests/spev.html 7 other Polar Bear plan on being on the air through out the weekend from other locations for your HF hunting pleasure. N7UN/2 and WB3AAL/2 might be camping over Friday night, 5 Jan. 2007, at the Catfish Tower on the Appalachian Trail about 1.5 miles from the Camp-Run-a-MOC event. I, WB3AAL, will be working on my QSO count from the Appalachian Trail. I currently have 725 QSO from the AT since march 2000. I will be looking for to following states if the bands are in good condition: AZ, HI, MT, ND, NM, OR and SD. Working DX from the trail is always fun. So if you would like to see what our schedule will be, please check out the sites mention above. I would like to wish everyone a Prosperous New Year and to make many CW QSO's in 2007. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL Polar Bear #1 www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get?
I agree Arie. I think the issues are more concerned with a lack of confidence in people's construction abilities. If you believe you have assembled it to a high standard then you will have confidence that you can align it correctly. Fault-finding can also be daunting but there is considerable assistance available on this Reflector. Perhaps the other point to make is that it is sometimes difficult to believe that having assembled such a complex looking set of boards with so many components, alignment can be so simple.It is easy to make your self believe that there must be other more technical things to do to male it work properly! I do have some receiver spec issues but will post those separately. Chris G3SJJ (K2/100 5545, 160m plus SSB) Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote: First of all: HNY guys and may 2007 bring all good to you. I'm not a super experienced builder but I've done a few things here and there. If you are able to build an Elecraft K2, then you simple must be able to do the alignments. Alignment is not the difficult part. Just do it. Getting the right parts in the proper places and solder everything right without any damage; that's the challenge. I'm reading this reflector for about6 months now and have learned a lot about the K2 this way. IMHO nearly all the messages are about faulty components, right components in wrong places, solder blobs etc. Problems with alignments are mostly traced back to a small mistake during the building of the kit. Therefore I think the problem is not the alignment of the K2, it is faultfinding. Question is if one would like to send a not aligned (or better not alignable) K2 to one of the experts of this group for alignment? I'm afraid it will come down to faultfinding. (Again my humble opinion). 73, Arie PA3A -Oorspronkelijk bericht- Van: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Namens Fred (FL) Verzonden: zondag 31 december 2006 17:55 Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get? When I built K2 # 54xx last May 2006, I had high hope of eventually sending the completed K2 back into "Elecraft's Service Dept" and having it aligned and checked over by the experts. I would have been willing to spend that extra $$$. But - Elecraft Inc. said NO. At which point I came to believe that Elecraft Inc. has no service dept. Sounds like a good opportunity, for us 5800+ K2's alone - to offer this professional factory service. I've often felt - should the 4 or 5 experts on the email list - ever drop out or go away, we'd be left fully on our own! Possibly the K2 email list archives - would helm us through these troubled waters. Or other experts would surface. Luckily, my K2 build came thru with flying colors, and with the help of Spectrogram - even the filter setup, went seemingly well. But the notion, that "many K2's are out there in poor alignment and in poor performance shape" - is a little scarey. Do you remember the Heathkit Color TV Kits? It was a handfull to build, and it too even had its own test and alignment circuits inside. I don't recall what Heathkit's position was on Service Department? (Benton Harbor, MI) Happy New Year, Fred, FL __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get?
First of all: HNY guys and may 2007 bring all good to you. I'm not a super experienced builder but I've done a few things here and there. If you are able to build an Elecraft K2, then you simple must be able to do the alignments. Alignment is not the difficult part. Just do it. Getting the right parts in the proper places and solder everything right without any damage; that's the challenge. I'm reading this reflector for about6 months now and have learned a lot about the K2 this way. IMHO nearly all the messages are about faulty components, right components in wrong places, solder blobs etc. Problems with alignments are mostly traced back to a small mistake during the building of the kit. Therefore I think the problem is not the alignment of the K2, it is faultfinding. Question is if one would like to send a not aligned (or better not alignable) K2 to one of the experts of this group for alignment? I'm afraid it will come down to faultfinding. (Again my humble opinion). 73, Arie PA3A -Oorspronkelijk bericht- Van: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Namens Fred (FL) Verzonden: zondag 31 december 2006 17:55 Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get? When I built K2 # 54xx last May 2006, I had high hope of eventually sending the completed K2 back into "Elecraft's Service Dept" and having it aligned and checked over by the experts. I would have been willing to spend that extra $$$. But - Elecraft Inc. said NO. At which point I came to believe that Elecraft Inc. has no service dept. Sounds like a good opportunity, for us 5800+ K2's alone - to offer this professional factory service. I've often felt - should the 4 or 5 experts on the email list - ever drop out or go away, we'd be left fully on our own! Possibly the K2 email list archives - would helm us through these troubled waters. Or other experts would surface. Luckily, my K2 build came thru with flying colors, and with the help of Spectrogram - even the filter setup, went seemingly well. But the notion, that "many K2's are out there in poor alignment and in poor performance shape" - is a little scarey. Do you remember the Heathkit Color TV Kits? It was a handfull to build, and it too even had its own test and alignment circuits inside. I don't recall what Heathkit's position was on Service Department? (Benton Harbor, MI) Happy New Year, Fred, FL __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Subject: [Elecraft] External amplifier with QRP version of the K2
Hi chuck I am driving an old homebrew linear with K2. Amp is PL509 / 519 grounded grid job. I have 2 valves / ? tubes in it. Got about 100 to 150 w keydown on CW with 12 -15 w drive from K2. when QRP become tough wee bit of power helps Regards moe MM0MRM K2 #5158. Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 08:07:35 -0600 From: "Chuck Guenther" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] External amplifier with QRP version of the K2 To: Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" For a few days now, I've been driving my Ameritron AL80B amplifier with 10-15 watts from my K2, yielding roughly 100-150 watts output on CW (no QSK). It's been working very well. I thought I'd share how this is implemented, in case anyone else is interested. One of these days, I'll try the KPA-100, but for now I'm able to enjoy the K2 at the "standard" 100 watt power level with what I have in the shack. (No, I haven't tried driving the amplifier with the Sierra !) 73, Chuck NI0C K2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Verification of Specifications
I asked Gary at Elecraft if he finds much variation in performance with the radios he works on and repairs. I recall he said that if the radios have been built correctly there is no variation between radios. I have compared my rig to the PROII and I could not detected any difference in relation to sensitivity. My only weakness in my station setup is my antenna. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
