Re: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD - can't connect

[Iain MacDonnell - K6IAM]

I had LP-Bridge configured with a virtual serial port of COM11 earlier
today, and HRD found and opened that OK.

~Iain



Dick Dievendorff wrote:
If the USB to Serial Adapter is COM9 and HRD is opening COM3, then HRD 
isn’t going to find your K3.


 

Maybe you can change the USB to Serial Adapter to use a COM port number 
that’s within the range of COM ports that HRD supports.  The Windows 
Device Manager will let you choose the COM port you want, as long as it 
isn’t already in use.  I set my computer to use COM255 for testing the 
KUSB with the K3 Utility to verify that it works for a wide range of COM 
port numbers.


 


Dick, K6KR

 

 

 

 

*From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *On Behalf Of *Lawrence Libsch

*Sent:* Thursday, October 09, 2008 6:21 PM
*To:* Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
*Subject:* [Elecraft] K3 and HRD - can't connect

 

I am attempting to connect to my K3 with HRD. I am using the 
Elecraft USB to serial port to connect them. The USB to serial port 
connector is on COM 9, has the latest drivers and has been successfully 
used to install K3 firmware v 4.26. HRD will not let me choose COM 9. 
COM 3, which HRD wants is said to be in use when I look at the 
possibility of changing to COM3. The K3, the port and HRD are all set 
for 38400 baud. Using auto-select for the COM port selection, HRD finds 
port 3 and fails to connect giving the error messages frrquency =0 and 
K3 COM3 38400 Failed to read frequency.


 

Ideas please?
Larry





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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Hakko soldering station recommendion

[Jim Wiley]

I use a Hakko 808 for desoldering, and a Weller WS-80 
computer-controlled unit for soldering.  Each is nearly ideal (for my 
uses) for the particular application. I like the dial-up heat and 
extraordinarily fast response of the Weller soldering pencil.  Less than 
30 seconds from cold to 700 degrees.


For really serious soldering where a LOT of heat is needed, I have a 
Weller 120-watt iron - the type with a 1/2" diameter, 3" long solid 
copper tip.   That last one only gets used once a year or so,  but it's 
a bit like a parachute - when you need it, absolutely nothing else will 
do. 



- Jim, KL7CC



Ken Kopp wrote:

I'm sure I'll get a number of different recommendations,
but which Hakko soldering station do you like? 
 
73!
 
Ken Kopp - K0PP

[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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RE: [Elecraft] OT - Hakko soldering station recommendion

[Dick Dievendorff]

I use a Hakko 936 that suits me to a tee.

 

I also have a Hakko 808 desoldering tool, which is very useful when you need
it. 

 

73 de Dick, K6KR

 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 9:13 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT - Hakko soldering station recommendion

 

I'm sure I'll get a number of different recommendations, 

but which Hakko soldering station do you like? 

 

73!

 

Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] OT - Hakko soldering station recommendion

[Ken Kopp]

I'm sure I'll get a number of different recommendations, 
but which Hakko soldering station do you like? 

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD - can't connect

[Dick Dievendorff]

If the USB to Serial Adapter is COM9 and HRD is opening COM3, then HRD isn't
going to find your K3.

 

Maybe you can change the USB to Serial Adapter to use a COM port number
that's within the range of COM ports that HRD supports.  The Windows Device
Manager will let you choose the COM port you want, as long as it isn't
already in use.  I set my computer to use COM255 for testing the KUSB with
the K3 Utility to verify that it works for a wide range of COM port numbers.

 

Dick, K6KR

 

 

 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lawrence Libsch
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 6:21 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and HRD - can't connect

 

I am attempting to connect to my K3 with HRD. I am using the Elecraft
USB to serial port to connect them. The USB to serial port connector is on
COM 9, has the latest drivers and has been successfully used to install K3
firmware v 4.26. HRD will not let me choose COM 9. COM 3, which HRD wants is
said to be in use when I look at the possibility of changing to COM3. The
K3, the port and HRD are all set for 38400 baud. Using auto-select for the
COM port selection, HRD finds port 3 and fails to connect giving the error
messages frrquency =0 and K3 COM3 38400 Failed to read frequency.

 

Ideas please?
Larry

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[Elecraft] re:VOM vs DMM

[Jim Hoge]

Greetings,
 
Thanks to all who reponded. I decided to play it safe and borrowed a DMM. I 
also used it to check my VOM and suffice it to say that it will be relegated to 
continuity checks on trailer wiring. No ICs there. The K3 is now built but not 
yet calibrated and I don't have the time for a few days. Man, this is worse 
than the wait after the order was placed!
 
73,
Jim W5QM
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Re: [Elecraft] K2s transmitted phase noise

[AJSOENKE]

One of the main reasons touted by Elecraft for many years is the low phase  
noise presented on the K2.
Some of the things that contribute to unacceptable phase noise levels can  be 
attributed to incorrect alignment of circuits during build, inadequate  
shielding of CAT cables and bus interconnect cables. The K100 higher power  
levels 
will also have proportionately higher levels of 'corruption'. A damaged  or 
poorly working interface cable from the K2 basic to the K100 bus panel can be  
picked up on the transmitted signal. Running a KW will certainly take any of 
the  above and make it that much worse, hence a small almost unnoticeable tweak 
at  the base level can make a big difference after 12 db of amplification.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 10/6/2008 10:55:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
At ZM1A (Multi-single/Multi-Two) contest station we  had serious "key-up" 
wide-band noise problems with several different YaeComWood  models - least 
obnoxious was the IC-780 plus Drake L4B, two sets of antennas  separated about 
100m, 
especially with both quads pointed at each  other.

K2s (#767 and #3725)  plus a small external SS amp produced  no discernible 
phase noise when driving a Sunair GL-1900B amp - bandpass ATUs on  both 
stations. 

Please note that these were not K2/100s, so maybe our  experience is not 
relevant.   

We now use two K3s, amps at 500w  output.
The K3s are so clean that we can operate within 3 kHz of 1st harmonic  on CW.
No clicks, no de-sense, no phase noise - happy  contesters.

73,
Ken ZL1AIH ( ZM1A in  contests)






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[Elecraft] K3 and HRD - can't connect

[Lawrence Libsch]

I should add that I am using WIN XP SP2, not Vista.

Larry___
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[Elecraft] K3 and HRD - can't connect

[Lawrence Libsch]

I am attempting to connect to my K3 with HRD. I am using the Elecraft USB 
to serial port to connect them. The USB to serial port connector is on COM 9, 
has the latest drivers and has been successfully used to install K3 firmware v 
4.26. HRD will not let me choose COM 9. COM 3, which HRD wants is said to be in 
use when I look at the possibility of changing to COM3. The K3, the port and 
HRD are all set for 38400 baud. Using auto-select for the COM port selection, 
HRD finds port 3 and fails to connect giving the error messages frrquency =0 
and K3 COM3 38400 Failed to read frequency.

Ideas please?
Larry___
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Bob Cunnings]

In the Owner's Manual, starting at page 63?

Bob NW8L

On Thu, Oct 9, 2008 at 6:37 PM,  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello
> Does anyone know if there is a list of all the K3 error messages
> and what they mean on the Elecraft website? I haven't been able
> to find it if there is one.
> I've found out from working with Gary that if the K3 has a problem,
> it will tell you what the problem is if you will just listen to it!
> I don't know what the error messages mean, so have to depend of Gary.
> 73
> Scott N5SM
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3

[wsm]

Hello
Does anyone know if there is a list of all the K3 error messages
and what they mean on the Elecraft website? I haven't been able
to find it if there is one.
I've found out from working with Gary that if the K3 has a problem,
it will tell you what the problem is if you will just listen to it!
I don't know what the error messages mean, so have to depend of Gary.
73
Scott N5SM


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[Elecraft] Fwd: ARLB013 Pennsylvania Becomes 27th State with PRB-1 Law on Books

[Aubrey]

SB QST @ ARL $ARLB013
ARLB013 Pennsylvania Becomes 27th State with PRB-1 Law on Books

ZCZC AG13
QST de W1AW
ARRL Bulletin 13  ARLB013
From ARRL Headquarters
Newington CT  October 9, 2008
To all radio amateurs

SB QST ARL ARLB013
ARLB013 Pennsylvania Becomes 27th State with PRB-1 Law on Books

On Wednesday, October 8, Pennsylvania Governor Edward G. Rendell (D)
signed into law a bill that guarantees radio amateurs the right to
erect antenna support structures up to 65 feet without the need for
a Special Use Permit.

The bill passed in the House with a vote of 196-1; it passed in the
Senate with a vote of 49-1.  The new law is scheduled to go into
effect December 8, 60 days after signing.

Senate Bill 884 (now Act 88), An Act amending Title 53
(Municipalities Generally) of the Pennsylvania Consolidated
Statutes, Restricting Municipalities from Regulating Amateur Radio
Service Communications, was first introduced on June 1, 2007 by
Pennsylvania Senator Stewart J. Greenleaf (R) who represents
portions of Bucks and Montgomery Counties.

The bill requires local municipalities to "reasonably accommodate
amateur radio service communications, and to impose only the minimum
regulations necessary to accomplish the legitimate purpose of the
municipality" and says that "no ordinance, regulation, plan or any
other action shall restrict amateur radio antenna height to less
than 65 feet above ground level, but a municipality may impose
necessary regulations to ensure the safety of amateur radio antenna
structures, but must reasonably accommodate amateur service
communications."

/EX


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 issue

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Check to see if your CW dot paddle is being closed for some reason or 
other, or if your PSK interface is holding the PTT line active. (in the 
K2 both the dot input and PTT are the same).
Without changing any of your settings, try connecting a microphone to 
the K2/100 and transmit voice - that is the same as transmitting PSK 
except the 'tones' are not the same.   If it behaves with the 
microphone, suspect something in your interface box.


If neither of those quick tests reveal any problem, the next step is to 
open the K2 to make some measurements while it is misbehaving.  First 
measurement would be to measure the state of the 8R and 8T voltage rails 
to see if it is 'stuck in transmit'  Those points are conveniently 
available at the anodes of D6 and D7 - D6 is driven by 8R and D7 is 
driven by 8T.


73,
Don W3FPR

John Wiener wrote:
My K2/100 5312 started a new "thing" today.  On PSK (my primary mode), 
it hangs up after xmission...i.e., in a "mute" mode...no power showing 
on external wattmeter and no audio.  I must turn off and on radio to 
get receive.  QSK CW is fine.

Did I blow a diode or is this a software/interface issue?

Thanks

John
AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] dmm vs vom

[John W2XS]

Be careful with some of the DMM's too. I did a study on the voltage produced
at the leads for several brands of industry-standard meters at work.  Here
is one of them:

Resistance RangeVoltage on the leads
0.2 ohms   12 volts
2 ohms  12 volts
20 ohms12 volts
200 ohms   6 volts
2M ohms6 volts
20M ohms  1 volt

We found out why certain semiconductor devices were being destroyed after
"meter checking". 

73,

John W2XS

Generally it is not a problem, if you are checking resistors. The area you  
can get into trouble is when you have semiconductors connected to the
circuit - 
 Elecraft Rigs are loaded with them. The problem can come from most VOMs not  
being able to limit the current applied to the circuit under test. Even at 
low  voltage you could apply a voltage with enough current to bias a
transistor 
to a  destructive level. Most DMMs use a high impedance amplifier on input
to 
reduce  current flow to/from the meter. The resistance circuitry can also be 
made to  sample E/I data at low enough levels to provide resistance
measurement 
at much  lower current and voltage. IMO, with many DVM/DMMs on the market at 
low cost,  it's probably not worth the risk.

Al WA6VNN
 



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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/dmm-vs-vom-tp1307371p1314193.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 - Aux RF connector

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hello Ralph: 

See the section headed, "Auxiliary KRX3 Antenna Input" in your KRX3 manual
on pages 22 through 26 for full details for choosing the installation you
want and how to install the connector and cable if you want the AUX RF input
from the back panel. It sounds like you made it through that part okay. 

Connection of the cable to the KRX3 RF module shown in the pictorial diagram
of all the cables Figure 43 on page 36 and the connection is detailed in the
installation procedure (first step on page 37) detailing what to do as your
drop the module into the K3.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Ralph Parker wrote:
> During construction of #1823, I was cautioned many times to protect
> the end of the TMP cable coming from the 'Aux RF' BNC, so it wouldn't 
> short anything during alignment.
> 
> Now that I'm about to drop the KRX3 into the chassis, there's hardly a
> mention of this cable, and nowhere to connect it.
> 
> I guess I expected two antenna inputs to KRX3, and the ability to
> switch between them at my pleasure. It seems to be an either/or 
> situation. Am I missing something?
> 
> Incidentally, the 'bumps' along the edge of the KRX3 PC board don't
> come anywhere close to fitting into the holes. All they do on #1823 is 
> distort the sides of the KRX3 case. I think I'll remove them. 
> Comments?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Aux RF connector

[Lyle Johnson]

I guess I expected two antenna inputs to KRX3, and the ability to switch
between them at my pleasure. It seems to be an either/or situation.
Am I missing something?


You can select the same antenna as the main, or a second antenna. The 
second antenna is either (a) the one not used by the main receiver if 
you have the KRX3 wired to the KAT3, or (b) the Aux RF BNC.  It depends 
on which one you plug into the KRX3 at the TMP connector near the KIO3.


The choice was easy for me, since my KAT3 second antenna is usually a 
dummy load...


73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Aux RF connector

[Iain MacDonnell - K6IAM]

Ralph Parker wrote:

During construction of #1823, I was cautioned many times to protect the end
of the TMP cable coming from the 'Aux RF' BNC, so it wouldn't short
anything during alignment.

Now that I'm about to drop the KRX3 into the chassis, there's hardly a
mention of this cable, and nowhere to connect it.

I guess I expected two antenna inputs to KRX3, and the ability to switch
between them at my pleasure. It seems to be an either/or situation.
Am I missing something?

Incidentally, the 'bumps' along the edge of the KRX3 PC board don't come
anywhere close to fitting into the holes. All they do on #1823 is distort
the sides of the KRX3 case. I think I'll remove them. Comments?


This was discussed recently - see:

http://n2.nabble.com/Low-tech-lighting-td1301496.html#a1301953

ignore the first message (note, people; please don't start a new thread
by replying to a message from an old one and changing the subject line -
it leaves false thread references in place)

~Iain


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[Elecraft] K3 - Aux RF connector

[Ralph Parker]

During construction of #1823, I was cautioned many times to protect the end
of the TMP cable coming from the 'Aux RF' BNC, so it wouldn't short
anything during alignment.

Now that I'm about to drop the KRX3 into the chassis, there's hardly a
mention of this cable, and nowhere to connect it.

I guess I expected two antenna inputs to KRX3, and the ability to switch
between them at my pleasure. It seems to be an either/or situation.
Am I missing something?

Incidentally, the 'bumps' along the edge of the KRX3 PC board don't come
anywhere close to fitting into the holes. All they do on #1823 is distort
the sides of the KRX3 case. I think I'll remove them. Comments?

ve7xf

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[Elecraft] W1 power meter enclosure

[L. D. Ingram]

There have been several comments on enclosing (or not) the W1.

I built one into a small metal enclosure to have something that 
looked nice on the shelf with the K2.


I have put pictures on my web site (just getting that up and running) 
at http://www.lawrenceingram.com


If you have any questions, please ignore the contact page (I don't 
have access to that e-mail address yet) and send me an e-mail at 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


73  Larry Ingram AG4NN

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[Elecraft] Link---Using AVG 8.0 Free Edition (Anti-virus plus Anti-spyware utility programs combined)

[Aubrey]

http://www.download.com/4326-2001_4-6639664.html?tag=nl.e404

No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Re: [Elecraft] dmm vs vom

[AJSOENKE]

In a message dated 10/8/2008 11:03:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi all,

Is there any problem using a  VOM instead of a DMM to perform the resistance 
checks while building the K3? I  have yet to make it fully into the modern era 
and to that end, do not have a  DMM.

Tnx es 73,
Jim  W5QM


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Generally it is not a problem, if you are checking resistors. The area you  
can get into trouble is when you have semiconductors connected to the circuit - 
 Elecraft Rigs are loaded with them. The problem can come from most VOMs not  
being able to limit the current applied to the circuit under test. Even at 
low  voltage you could apply a voltage with enough current to bias a transistor 
to a  destructive level. Most DMMs use a high impedance amplifier on input to 
reduce  current flow to/from the meter. The resistance circuitry can also be 
made to  sample E/I data at low enough levels to provide resistance measurement 
at much  lower current and voltage. IMO, with many DVM/DMMs on the market at 
low cost,  it's probably not worth the risk.

Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] flashing NB icon question

[Bill NY9H]

Thanks lain,
I knew I read it somewhere,,, but

Not on my page 25..
NOV 07 v C1   JUST DON'T CUT IT ANYMORE.

Just loaded the current manual  TADA.

Thanks...  I best see what else I've been missing.

GOOD REMINDER TO HAVE THE CURRENT MANUAL
if you have the current software,,,

bill


At 12:30 PM 10/9/2008, Iain MacDonnell - K6IAM wrote:


Page 25 of the owner's manual says "(i) The NB icon will flash slowly if
the I.F. blanker setting is too high for the present signal conditions.
If this happens, use a lower setting."

~Iain



Bill NY9H wrote:

I know I read about it somewhere but cannot find it 
when I turn on the IF NB  ...the NB flashes,  not the dsp nb...
 did it mean too much garbage to fix ??

not all the time 
in fact It just stopped doing that ,,,ARG

so If my current noise is handled best by  dsp  2-7 that is indicating that
the garbage is X wide ???
bill
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Re: [Elecraft] flashing NB icon question

[Iain MacDonnell - K6IAM]

Page 25 of the owner's manual says "(i) The NB icon will flash slowly if
the I.F. blanker setting is too high for the present signal conditions.
If this happens, use a lower setting."

~Iain



Bill NY9H wrote:


I know I read about it somewhere but cannot find it 

when I turn on the IF NB  ...the NB flashes,  not the dsp nb...
 did it mean too much garbage to fix ??


not all the time 

in fact It just stopped doing that ,,,ARG


so If my current noise is handled best by  dsp  2-7 that is indicating that
the garbage is X wide ???

bill

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Re: [Elecraft] flashing NB icon question

[Bill NY9H]

I know I read about it somewhere but cannot find it 

when I turn on the IF NB  ...the NB flashes,  not the dsp nb...
 did it mean too much garbage to fix ??


not all the time 

in fact It just stopped doing that ,,,ARG


so If my current noise is handled best by  dsp  2-7 that is indicating that
the garbage is X wide ???

bill

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Mike Markowski]

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> The mini-kits were designed for low cost and ease of use on the bench,
> hence no enclosures. The W1 works just fine sitting on the little feet
> supplied.

When you really want an enclosure, though, I haven't seen any that match what
Heinz HB9BCB has done.  He sent me some photos that I put at the bottom of this
page:

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Mark:
 
The mini-kits were designed for low cost and ease of use on the bench, hence
no enclosures. The W1 works just fine sitting on the little feet supplied.
 
That said, one fellow W8FGU wanted an enclosure and created a spiffy one
made of lexan for the W1 (and some other mini-module kits) that he offered
for sale. 
 
Check here. No changes to the W1 are needed other than to mount the battery
on the bottom and the BNCs on the top of the board as shown in the pictures.

 
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/pics/enclosures/W1/w1enclosure.pdf
 
It's really handy if you're going to drag the W1 around away from the bench,
throw it in a bag, etc. 
 
The W1 is a handy, useful and it accurate addition to my bench after
calibrating it simply by setting a d-c voltage as the instructions say. 
 
Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 8:50 PM
To: 'Elecraft Mail List'
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 Questions



I'm getting ready to build my W1 SWR/Watt meter.  Before I start, are things
I should consider.  Enclosure?  Mounting BNC off-board?  External power?
COM port mounting?

 

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Mark, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
Editor, The SKCC Centurion
Elecraft K2 S/N 0539
Fists # 2972 CC 1806
SKCC # 2240 C56 T20

MQFD # 128
QRP-ARCI # 12647
AZ ScQRPions

COGRC Emergency Communications

 

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[Elecraft] MacLoggerDx and K3

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

it would appear the problem I was having with MacLoggerDX controlling  
my K3 has been fixed in version 4.3.6b8 of MLDX (available from the  
Dogpark web site).
It now sends a mode change regardless of current mode, every time it  
changes the frequency and it now works very well (using a delay of 0ms  
now :-).

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
It is not how old you are, but how you are old. -Jules Renard, writer
(1864-1910)

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[Elecraft] K3 Connection to PC for HRD

[Lawrence Libsch]

Thanks to all for helpful advice on this topic. Special thanks to Iain who 
continued the discussion with me off list. I plan to put it all together and 
hope to report success.


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[Elecraft] K2 issue

[John Wiener]

My K2/100 5312 started a new "thing" today.  On PSK (my primary  
mode), it hangs up after xmission...i.e., in a "mute" mode...no power  
showing on external wattmeter and no audio.  I must turn off and on  
radio to get receive.  QSK CW is fine.

Did I blow a diode or is this a software/interface issue?

Thanks

John
AB8O
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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Craig D. Smith]

I like the W1, and it works just fine here.  Do not have it in any kind of
enclosure.  It is mounted on the rear of my operating desk such that it is
at the correct angle for a good view of the display LEDs.  This is
accomplished with a couple pieces of clear packaging tape around the input
and output coax connections.  I power it from the external 12V line from my
K3 so that it powers up with the K3.

One hint that VASTLY improves the usability.  When you build it, replace the
first 6 LEDs on the row of SWR indicators with different colors.  I use
green LEDs for 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3;  yellow LEDs for 1.5 and 1.7;  and an
orange LED for 2.0.  This way you can instantly see the status of your SWR
at a distance without needing to read the very fine print on the PCB.  With
all red LEDs as supplied by Elecraft the display isn't very user-friendly.
The replacement LEDs are readily and inexpensively available from Mouser or
other vendors. 

  ... Craig AC0DS


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Jon Perelstein]

>>I'm getting ready to build my W1 SWR/Watt meter.  Before I start, are things
I should consider.  Enclosure?  Mounting BNC off-board?  External power?
COM port mounting?
 
I have mine sitting out on my desk without an enclosure.  I use it with a K1, 
with an IC-746Pro, and a buddy's K2.  Indoors, sitting on the desk seems to 
work fine.  I had it with me at Field Day and it worked fine sitting on bench 
table in a park feeding off my K1.
 
You certainly can put the W1 in an enclosure.  However, it probably needs to be 
a clear enclosure since there are display lights at the top of the board and 
also on the left edge below the middle of the board (which is also where the 
on-off switch is located, which means that you'll need access to the switch).
 
Obviously, if you put it in an enclosure, you have to worry about whether or 
not any conducting surfaces of the enclosure might touch any of the components 
(especially the BNC connectors).  The feet on the W1 will keep anything from 
touching the bottom, but it might be tricky to isolate the BNC connectors.
 
If you're going to mount the BNC's off the board, your connection between the 
BNCs and the board would have to be of a type that prevents adding loss and 
SWR.  If you're going to do something like that, you might consider mounting 
the BNCs on the board as per the instructions, and then short coax jumpers out 
of those BNCs terminating in BNC females.  You would then connect your rig and 
antenna to the external ends of the jumpers.
 
My impression from others I've talked with is that most people have some sort 
of a carrying case, but then use the W1 without an enclosure when they need to 
use it.


 


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Re [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Paul Huff]

Hi Mark,

The W1 is a great tool and I am sure that you will find it very useful. 
Construction was very straight forward and mine worked right from the start. 
Since I use it only occasionally to test antennas, tuners, and rig output, I did 
not put it in an enclosure.  The board simply sits on it's rubber feet on the 
desk while I run my tests.  If you are planning on a more permanent setup at 
your operating position you might want to consider the custom enclosures at 
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/w1encl.html .  I don't have any personal 
experience with these boxes but they look very good.


73,
Paul - N8XMS

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[Elecraft] Re: Cannot post to Reflector TEST MESSAGE

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi Tim,

As requested this is a test message.

Thanks for your help !

Vic
GW4JUN
- Original Message - 
From: "Tim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 3:08 AM
Subject: Re: Cannot post to Reflector


I see no entries from <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> in our mail server logs 
for the last 2-1/2 weeks.  Vic will need to send a post to the list AND put 
my address in the CC field so I can see what he's doing.


Tim


At 07:05 PM 10/7/2008, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

Hi Vic,

You are subscribed properly as [EMAIL PROTECTED] and I see no 
problems with your set up.


I've copied the admin at qth.net to see if they have your ISP blocked for 
some reason. (Usually SPAM.)


73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Elecraft list manager

_..._



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi Eric,

Yes I still cannot post from my registered e mail address 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


This is odd since I have successfully posted from this address for three 
years until a year or so ago when I discovered the problem .


I tried registering my new alternative  address also 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] but likewise cannot post.


In both cases I am receiveing the daily digests no problem.

I've no idea what could be causing this .

Any suggestions ?

73,

Vic GW4JUN




- Original Message - From: "Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Cannot post to Reflector



Hi Vic,

What's interesting is that for some reason my anti-spam filter also
caught your email to me. I just found it. Are you still having problems
posting? (You must always post from the same email address you are
subscribed with.)

73, Eric


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Eric,

I have been subscribed to the reflector for several years but I have
not been able to post messages for quite some time (over a year) .

I tried subscribing from an alternative e mail address but that
doesn't work either !

Is it possible to whitelist me ? Or is it possible I've done something
at this end to screw things up.

Many thanks.

73,

Vic  GW4JUN

[EMAIL PROTECTED] 





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