Re: [Elecraft] Import Costs from America
Hi to the list, Once again this list has answered my question. Thank you to all who have replied on list and direct to me. Much appreciated. Once I'm in a situation to I will be ordering direct rather than pay a dealer. 73 Gary G7USC Sent from my iPhone On 22 Sep 2014, at 04:26, Don Palmer d.pal...@btinternet.com wrote: Hi all you pay is VAT I have bought a KPA 500,2xP3 and 2xKAT500 and all have only had VAT. Good luck on what ever you do. Don G6CMV Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 with a strange XFIL problem...
Hi all - I wonder if this problem has ever been resolved? I have had the same issue for several years with mine (serial number 278, previously owned by K8RA who reported the same problem.) http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/On-a-K1-how-do-I-get-back-from-FL3-to-FL1-or-FL2-Menu-freezes-td7570579.html http://marc.info/?l=elecraftm=105624414018316w=2 and the thread to which I reply now: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-with-a-strange-XFIL-problem-tp7558513p7558526.html 72/73 Dave -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-with-a-strange-XFIL-problem-tp7558513p7593290.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] very small 20A switching PS
HPS1-A required reducing power in my K3 to about 60W. It works well with IC-7000 because this rig folds power with lower voltage. For me, HPS advantages are light weight and automatic 110/220C switching. It failed once under light service. Ignacy, NO9E -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/very-small-20A-switching-PS-tp7593251p7593292.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Possible solution: K1 with a strange XFIL problem...
Yes I had this exact problem on one I repaired in July of 2012. It was traced to a short between the RIT/XIT switche to a trace on the board, where the switch lead had been bent over by the original builder before soldering. I corresponded with Don Wilhelm about this. Though he didn't provide the solution, our conversation led me to the tests that found it. Copied below is a repost of my last message to Don, after I resolved it. I don't recall if I posted this to the reflector or not. In any event, It may help someone in the future. I have a photo of the offending switch pin connection, if anyone wants it. Bruce Beford, N1RX Hi, Don. You may recall that I posted recently to the list about a strange problem with a K1. I resolved it today, and wanted to share the results with you. Here's a copy of my original post: OK, folks. Time to put on your thinking caps... I just purchased a used K1. Has NB, ATU and 4 band board, set for 7/10.1/14/21 MHz. All appears to be operating normally, except... When cycling through the crystal filter bandwidths from FL1-FL3, once FL3 is reached, all buttons become unresponsive. The VFO readout still works, but the MCU will not respond to any key presses. The filter does actually switch to the narrowest setting, based on the audio response. Cycling the power returns the rig to normal operation (on FL1), and all works fine again until trying to use FL3. About the only other anomaly I notice is what seems to be a louder pop in the speaker when switching in RIT or XIT than I remember from my last K1. I have not yet begun any troubleshooting (except for a full reset). Just thought I would poll the collective wisdom here before digging in. Actually, I'll be getting ready for Lobstercon over the next couple of days, so I don't know how much time I'll be able to commit until after the weekend. You and I both suspected a problem with the MCU, as there should no other circuitry involved, except the DAC and EEPROM. You also suggested perhaps replacing those ICs while in there. Fortunately, I have a friend who allowed me to borrow his working K1. Swapped the entire Front Panel board, mine works fine with his board. I then took his MCU chip and put it in my board, still have the problem. So, the problem was on my FP board, but not the MCU. One thing I did notice was a ticking noise in the audio with no antenna connected, almost like ignition noise in a vehicle, when using my board FP board but not when using my friend's. The ticking would disappear when I went to FL2. Ahh, another clue... I then decided to remove the DAC from my board and see what happens. Lo, The unit would now switch properly, FL3,FL2,FL1 and back to FL3 OK. Of course, it was not actually switching the filter bandwidth with the DAC out. I now had a pretty load, almost moterboating noise in the audio. I decided to ground what was the XFIL/TONE output pin of the DAC (pin 1) to see if it would quiet the audio. It did, BUT- it activated the RIT! Wait a minute- there should be no connection between the two but, there was. Upon extra careful inspection, I found that one lead on the RIT/XIT switch was not inserted through the board by the original builder. It was bent over, and was contacting pin 5 on J1 (the XFIL/TONE signal). The moaterboating I heard was actually the MCU driving the LCD pin and polling the input for the switch. This was not noticeable when the DAC was holding this line at a steady DC voltage. So, what was happening was when the DAC output it's lowest voltage for FL1 (about 1.6 volts), it would tickle the input pin on the MCU for the WPM+/FILTER switch. I believe the MCU would think the switch was being held in, therefore no other switches would work, until the unit was powered off. An original symptom (which I didn't recognize at the time) was when I noted that the RIT/XIT button seemed to generate an audio pop when used. That's because it was grounding the XFIL/TONE signal line. I reworked the switch connection, and all is fine now. I have attached a photo of the offending pin (not a good shot, but shows the connection in question). I thought you might like to hear about this one. Thanks for being a sounding board, Don. I appreciate it. 73, Bruce, N1RX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Questions...
Hi Phil, I'll give you my opinion and I'll also assume that you are talking about your home shack and not a KPA500 that is operated remotely. I don't even use STBY. I have the menu set for the KPA500 to go into OPER on power up. When I don't want to use the KPA500 I just hit the power button to turn it off. The KPA500 is instant on so I don't see a lot of difference between STBY and OFF. I don't own a KAT500 so I don't know if my opinion would differ if I did. I wouldn't think leaving the KPA500 turned on for long periods of time is any different than leaving the K3 on for long periods of time. I suppose some aging occurs and of course power is consumed. 73, Mike K2MK Phil Hystad-3 wrote I have two questions (slightly related) about the KPA500. Question 1: Assuming that there is no transmitted signal at all, is there any difference in whether a KPA500 is switched into OPER mode or STBY? Does OPER mode, even though the KPA500 is not actually being used, draw more power are there any other reasons to make sure that the KPA500 is in STBY mode unless it is being used. Question 2: Is any harm caused when a KPA500 is left in OPER mode for long periods of time though idle? 73, phil, K7PEH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: Elecraft@.qth This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to lists+1215531472858-365791@.nabble -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Questions-tp7593288p7593294.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K2 RF ALC or Power level problem?
Hello all... Long time no mailing list...I have a K2, with many addons, SSB, etc, have not done much ham radio the past several years, but have dusted things off and am working a few out there again. Something I've noticed, is that when I use the tune button, to auto tune the antenna tuner, I see about 5W output, no matter what the setting is. If I touch the power knob, it instantly jumps to the set power level. If I have the display set to read volts and amps, I get the set power level when I tune. Is this normal behavior, or do I have some kind of ALC level issue? Would this affect my output on SSB, (or any mode) leaving me at 5W despite my power knob setting? If this is a problem, was there a solution? As I type this, I almost feel I remember something about this, perhaps a tune only power reduction in the SW, to protect things? Not sure... I don't even remember what my FW version is, will look later. TIA... Jon, KA6MOK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF ALC or Power level problem?
Jon, I assume you have the KAT2 installed and set for AUTO. If so, the K2 reduces the power to 2 watts during tuning of the ATU. Yes, turning the power knob even a little will bring up the full power setting - that is normal. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 5:24 AM, Jon wrote: Hello all... Long time no mailing list...I have a K2, with many addons, SSB, etc, have not done much ham radio the past several years, but have dusted things off and am working a few out there again. Something I've noticed, is that when I use the tune button, to auto tune the antenna tuner, I see about 5W output, no matter what the setting is. If I touch the power knob, it instantly jumps to the set power level. If I have the display set to read volts and amps, I get the set power level when I tune. Is this normal behavior, or do I have some kind of ALC level issue? Would this affect my output on SSB, (or any mode) leaving me at 5W despite my power knob setting? If this is a problem, was there a solution? As I type this, I almost feel I remember something about this, perhaps a tune only power reduction in the SW, to protect things? Not sure... I don't even remember what my FW version is, will look later. TIA... Jon, KA6MOK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Questions...
On Mon,9/22/2014 7:27 AM, Mike K2MK wrote: I suppose some aging occurs and of course power is consumed. If you lived in California, you would think differently about that. Thanks to the crooks at Enron, our differential rate is currently $0.36 per kWh, and that's year round. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Possible solution: K1 with a strange XFIL problem...
Thank you Bruce! Your description below aligns closely with what I had found previously where I learned that when changing the bandwidth of FL2 to approach that of FL3, the problem followed the filter bandwidth and not the switch position itself. I knew it was a voltage problem but hadn't had success to track it further. I'll take a look at the switch this week. 72 Dave AE6RQ On Mon, Sep 22, 2014, at 04:36 AM, Bruce Beford wrote: Yes I had this exact problem on one I repaired in July of 2012. It was traced to a short between the RIT/XIT switche to a trace on the board, where the switch lead had been bent over by the original builder before soldering. I corresponded with Don Wilhelm about this. Though he didn't provide the solution, our conversation led me to the tests that found it. Copied below is a repost of my last message to Don, after I resolved it. I don't recall if I posted this to the reflector or not. In any event, It may help someone in the future. I have a photo of the offending switch pin connection, if anyone wants it. Bruce Beford, N1RX Hi, Don. You may recall that I posted recently to the list about a strange problem with a K1. I resolved it today, and wanted to share the results with you. Here's a copy of my original post: OK, folks. Time to put on your thinking caps... I just purchased a used K1. Has NB, ATU and 4 band board, set for 7/10.1/14/21 MHz. All appears to be operating normally, except... When cycling through the crystal filter bandwidths from FL1-FL3, once FL3 is reached, all buttons become unresponsive. The VFO readout still works, but the MCU will not respond to any key presses. The filter does actually switch to the narrowest setting, based on the audio response. Cycling the power returns the rig to normal operation (on FL1), and all works fine again until trying to use FL3. About the only other anomaly I notice is what seems to be a louder pop in the speaker when switching in RIT or XIT than I remember from my last K1. I have not yet begun any troubleshooting (except for a full reset). Just thought I would poll the collective wisdom here before digging in. Actually, I'll be getting ready for Lobstercon over the next couple of days, so I don't know how much time I'll be able to commit until after the weekend. You and I both suspected a problem with the MCU, as there should no other circuitry involved, except the DAC and EEPROM. You also suggested perhaps replacing those ICs while in there. Fortunately, I have a friend who allowed me to borrow his working K1. Swapped the entire Front Panel board, mine works fine with his board. I then took his MCU chip and put it in my board, still have the problem. So, the problem was on my FP board, but not the MCU. One thing I did notice was a ticking noise in the audio with no antenna connected, almost like ignition noise in a vehicle, when using my board FP board but not when using my friend's. The ticking would disappear when I went to FL2. Ahh, another clue... I then decided to remove the DAC from my board and see what happens. Lo, The unit would now switch properly, FL3,FL2,FL1 and back to FL3 OK. Of course, it was not actually switching the filter bandwidth with the DAC out. I now had a pretty load, almost moterboating noise in the audio. I decided to ground what was the XFIL/TONE output pin of the DAC (pin 1) to see if it would quiet the audio. It did, BUT- it activated the RIT! Wait a minute- there should be no connection between the two but, there was. Upon extra careful inspection, I found that one lead on the RIT/XIT switch was not inserted through the board by the original builder. It was bent over, and was contacting pin 5 on J1 (the XFIL/TONE signal). The moaterboating I heard was actually the MCU driving the LCD pin and polling the input for the switch. This was not noticeable when the DAC was holding this line at a steady DC voltage. So, what was happening was when the DAC output it's lowest voltage for FL1 (about 1.6 volts), it would tickle the input pin on the MCU for the WPM+/FILTER switch. I believe the MCU would think the switch was being held in, therefore no other switches would work, until the unit was powered off. An original symptom (which I didn't recognize at the time) was when I noted that the RIT/XIT button seemed to generate an audio pop when used. That's because it was grounding the XFIL/TONE signal line. I reworked the switch connection, and all is fine now. I have attached a photo of the offending pin (not a good shot, but shows the connection in question). I thought you might like to hear about this one. Thanks for being a sounding board, Don. I appreciate it. 73, Bruce, N1RX __ Elecraft mailing list Home:
[Elecraft] Digital Voice Recorder for K3
I have a DVR installed in my K3. I need to record a CW signal and then either put it on the air for the owner to hear (Voice ow CW) or make an MP3 or other audio file to send over the internet. Has anyone done this? Is it possible? I can make a recording and play it back on my K3 to record it with my computer, but I will lose some fidelity. Can I to this easier and better? Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Digital Voice Recorder for K3
Just two weeks ago I bought an Olympus VN721-PC for the purpose you mentioned. A stereo audio cable connects it to the LINE OUT jack on the back of the K3. I recorded several DX stations with it (some of which I could barely hear in headphones) and was happy to see that the recorder captured the audio faithfully. I had worried that any impedance mismatch might cause some problems with fidelity but that is absolutely not the case - a non-issue. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Olympus-Audio-Recorder-VN-721PC/37645119 John AE5X http://www.ae5x.com/blog I need to record a CW signal and then either put it on the air for the owner to hear (Voice ow CW) or make an MP3 or other audio file to send over the internet. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Non-ionizing radiation
Josh you got it right. The other 2 need to work on their sense of humor. :-) Howard KG5AON Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Non-ionizing radiation
On Mon,9/22/2014 12:41 PM, Howard Benham wrote: Josh you got it right. The other 2 need to work on their sense of humor. Politically driven statements that falsely portray reality are not funny. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
Hi All, Here's a question for the antenna gurus among the group. It's about the best way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna. First of all, I assume most would say to put the entire antenna up in the air as high as possible, and in a horizontal plane. I understand the advantage of doing that. However, what about a situation where you only have one support? My first inclination would be to deploy the antenna like a sloper, with the far end at the top of the support, and the other end at, or near, the rig. I started wondering, though, about where the maximum radiation occurs. In a half wave antenna, the current max is more or less in the center of the antenna. So, would it be better to get the center of the antenna as high as possible (taking advantage of the one support you might have), and then maybe bending the other half back downwards, sort of in inverted vee fashion? That would be as opposed to just running the antenna up in a straight line to the top of the support, thus possibly only getting the center about half as high as the top of the support. Here's a more definitive description of what I am thinking about, and compares to the situation I have. I have a pole that goes up approx. 40 feet. If I deploy the EFHW in sloper fashion, with one end near the ground close to the rig, the center of the antenna would only be at approx. 20 feet. Also, On 40 meters (the band I would be using), the pole would need to be some 50+ feet from the rig. Alternatively, what if I move the center of the antenna up closer to the top of the pole, and have the rest of the antenna slope back down to another tie point? Wouldn't this be apt to work better, even though I have created something similar to an inverted vee? I know a couple of RVer's who do something similar. They have two poles in use, one of which is much taller. They deploy their antenna so that the mid point of the antenna is near the top of the tallest pole, then over to another shorter pole, and then back down that 2nd pole vertically--almost a somewhat slanted U shape. Their results seem to be decent, but I don't know if there is a better way to do it. Their method condenses the lateral space required to deploy the antenna, thus fitting within most RV sites. I don't know exactly what this does to the impedance at the feed point, but they use tuners to resolve any mismatch. The pole I have is somewhat taller than either of the ones they use. Anyway, I assume I could do the sloper approach without creating any serious issues, but I'm curious about what others think of the vee approach to get the antenna center higher. I appreciate any suggestions. Dave W7AQK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K1 - For Sale: K1-4/2 with options
K1 #2539 for sale I would like to sell my K1-4/2 for personal reasons. The rig comes with the following options: - Finger Dimple - LCD Backlight kit - KFL1-4 Four band module with o 40 meters o 30 meters o 20 meters o 17 meters - KFL1-2 Two band module (not installed) with o 80 meters o 15 meters - KAT1 Internal Antenna Tuner - KNB1 Noise Blanker Also included are a 12v 4amp power cube type power supply with integral barrel plug and IEC Cable, a spare power cable with molded power barrel plug and tinned ends, Original factory printed assembly manual annotated with build notes plus latest downloaded factory manual with all errata fixed, all the separate manuals for the options, additional 15 meter crystal plus parts to remove 17 meters and add 15 meters to the 4 band module and all leftover assembly parts, factory tools and jigs in original factory bag. Rig is 9.5 on a scale of 10 cosmetically (small scuff on one side panel) and 10 of 10 operationally. Has been with me literally around the world in my backpack but sadly, I dont travel much anymore, my life has gotten complicated and it sees little use. A great rig like this should be used! Will be professionally packed and delivered via UPS ground to the lower 48 states. I really dont need anything to trade for, or else I would keep it. Over $600 new in 2009, offering this very nice and well optioned K1 for $475, which includes shipping as described above. Terms are Cashiers Check or Postal Money order. A scan of the funds transfer document emailed to me holds it in your name until I receive the actual document, then I will ship. I will not cash the document until I receive confirmation that you received the radio from UPS. Please, no funny business! Email direct (please, not here on the list!) for additional information and photographs. Im good in QRZ. 73 Lu Romero W4LT Tampa, Fl. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] [KX3] Key Clicks / Ringing - September Experiment
I am almost reluctant to post this. I know there will be some that will not take this as it was intended. Regardless, here is my disclaimer: Don't take this as griping, complaining, beating a dead horse, etc. These are strictly *my* observations at *my* station operating the way *I* operate - QRP op, casual CW op, casual CW / RTTY contester, casual chaser of DX. These observations are, therefore, subjective based on my operating. I think it's always good to experiment a bit with your particular setup. I have, for the month of September to this point, been experimenting with simplifying my station. I took the K3/P3 combo off my desk and have just been playing around with the KX3 exclusively - no panadapter; just the KX3 and the power supply. I have discovered that the K3/P3 combo has spoiled me. In a separate blog post draft, here are some notes comparing the KX3 to the K3 I made: The ATU on the KX3 is not a per band setting as it is on the K3. I created a macro to work around this. I can only have two macros loaded in the KX3 at any given time. The K3 can have up to eight (I think I have four and could truly reduce that to two or three - I wouldn't need the ATU macro). Hitting RCL on the KX3 means I *must* turn VFO A whether I want to QSY or not. On the K3, if I decide I hit the button by mistake, I can hit it again and clear my mistake. VFO B tunes too slowly - yes, it can be made to tune more coarse in the menu. My absolute biggest annoyances are the key clicks and digital ringing when working split / dual watch in either mode. The *only* way I found to get rid of the key clicks was to turn off dual watch and just operate split. However, if I read the manual correctly, this eliminates the ability to listen to both VFO A and VFO B. The KX3 Operating Manual, Rev B4, June 01, 2012 it states, Dual Watch Limitations... A wider roofing filter than normal will be selected automatically, if required, based on the frequency span between VFO A and VFO B. Reading that, my thinking is that I'm *not* going to get the ringing/key clicks out unless I get a set of headphones that will allow me to adjust the volume individually for L and R *or* just turn AF gain all the way down while transmitting. I think both the former and latter have been mentioned on the list. I have turned up the QSK to .020 and that *almost* eliminates the clicks and ringing. Honestly, I could probably live with the clicks to an extent. The ringing drives me batty - it's painful. NR is off. I'm trying to decide now how much of the time I actually operate and need to operate with the dual watch function on. I suspect after the W1AW/p event is over, that need will go down to around 10% or so - perhaps even lower. Now, take this as it was intended - I'm not asking that the KX3 do something for which it was not intended - like I said at the start, the K3 has spoiled me. The KX3 is a fantastic rig! I have thoroughly enjoyed using it this month. 73/72, Joel - W4JBB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3: Is this a serious error in KX3 Firmware affecting the IQ output?
Hello,I received reports recently about the signal peaks that are seen in software based panadapters appear to shift by approximately 1.25kHz when the bandwidth control is changed from 1.8 to 1.7. in USB mode on the K3 At 1.8 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0180 AT 1.7 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0170 which is normal behavior. I have investigated this and it indeed happens when the bandwidth is changed from 1.8 to 1.7 The sound of the signal nor the tuning of the radio is changed. However, a QSY to the original peak will detune the signal. This has been confirmed in Win4K3Suite, NAP3 and HDSDR. Can someone check this please on the PX3? This is on the latest firmware of 2.19 Thanks, Tom va2fsq __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
I have a similar antenna. I would use the inverted V or L configuration. You want the center of the antenna as high as possible. Mine is an inverted L, but the far end actually is about 20 feet below the center, which is 50 feet high. The maximum radiation is where the current is greatest, a quarter wave from the far end, which has no current. Mine works quite well for a single wire. I made it a little more than a half wave at the lowest frequency, so I can use a remote tuner at the base for other bands. I feed it against a less than great radial system for all bands, but for a half wave, this might not be very important. The base is 140 feet from my shack, fed with coax in a conduit. I also have a 43 foot vertical, which I can select by remote switch. Except on 20 M, the inverted L usually works better. 73, Rick K7MW On Sep 22, 2014, at 2:49 PM, w7...@cox.net wrote: Hi All, Here's a question for the antenna gurus among the group. It's about the best way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna. First of all, I assume most would say to put the entire antenna up in the air as high as possible, and in a horizontal plane. I understand the advantage of doing that. However, what about a situation where you only have one support? My first inclination would be to deploy the antenna like a sloper, with the far end at the top of the support, and the other end at, or near, the rig. I started wondering, though, about where the maximum radiation occurs. In a half wave antenna, the current max is more or less in the center of the antenna. So, would it be better to get the center of the antenna as high as possible (taking advantage of the one support you might have), and then maybe bending the other half back downwards, sort of in inverted vee fashion? That would be as opposed to just running the antenna up in a straight line to the top of the support, thus possibly only getting the center about half as high as the top of the support. Here's a more definitive description of what I am thinking about, and compares to the situation I have. I have a pole that goes up approx. 40 feet. If I deploy the EFHW in sloper fashion, with one end near the ground close to the rig, the center of the antenna would only be at approx. 20 feet. Also, On 40 meters (the band I would be using), the pole would need to be some 50+ feet from the rig. Alternatively, what if I move the center of the antenna up closer to the top of the pole, and have the rest of the antenna slope back down to another tie point? Wouldn't this be apt to work better, even though I have created something similar to an inverted vee? I know a couple of RVer's who do something similar. They have two poles in use, one of which is much taller. They deploy their antenna so that the mid point of the antenna is near the top of the tallest pole, then over to another shorter pole, and then back down that 2nd pole vertically--almost a somewhat slanted U shape. Their results seem to be decent, but I don't know if there is a better way to do it. Their method condenses the lateral space required to deploy the antenna, thus fitting within most RV sites. I don't know exactly what this does to the impedance at the feed point, but they use tuners to resolve any mismatch. The pole I have is somewhat taller than either of the ones they use. Anyway, I assume I could do the sloper approach without creating any serious issues, but I'm curious about what others think of the vee approach to get the antenna center higher. I appreciate any suggestions. Dave W7AQK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k7m...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
On Mon,9/22/2014 2:49 PM, w7...@cox.net wrote: It's about the best way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna. Not necessarily the best way, but here's a really good feeding method if you have a suitable sky hook! Also look at N6LF's ideas, on his website. Google to find it. http://k9yc.com/VerticalDipole.pdf 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Is this a serious error in KX3 Firmware affecting the IQ output?
Tom, I don't know the answer, but what I can inject is the fact that the KX3 shifts to Weaver demodulation at some point, it may be at 1.7 kHz. That would affect the signal peaks without substantially changing the sound of the signal on the KX3. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:13 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote: Hello,I received reports recently about the signal peaks that are seen in software based panadapters appear to shift by approximately 1.25kHz when the bandwidth control is changed from 1.8 to 1.7. in USB mode on the K3 At 1.8 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0180 AT 1.7 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0170 which is normal behavior. I have investigated this and it indeed happens when the bandwidth is changed from 1.8 to 1.7 The sound of the signal nor the tuning of the radio is changed. However, a QSY to the original peak will detune the signal. This has been confirmed in Win4K3Suite, NAP3 and HDSDR. Can someone check this please on the PX3? This is on the latest firmware of 2.19 Thanks, Tom va2fsq __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Is this a serious error in KX3 Firmware affecting the IQ output?
Hi If this is the case is there any way to determine exactly where or when this happens? Does it happen as I described? Can one use the BW command to actually compensate? Does it occur in USB only? Thanks for any insight. 73's Tom On Sep 22, 2014 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, I don't know the answer, but what I can inject is the fact that the KX3 shifts to Weaver demodulation at some point, it may be at 1.7 kHz. That would affect the signal peaks without substantially changing the sound of the signal on the KX3. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:13 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote: Hello,I received reports recently about the signal peaks that are seen in software based panadapters appear to shift by approximately 1.25kHz when the bandwidth control is changed from 1.8 to 1.7. in USB mode on the K3 At 1.8 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0180 AT 1.7 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0170 which is normal behavior. I have investigated this and it indeed happens when the bandwidth is changed from 1.8 to 1.7 The sound of the signal nor the tuning of the radio is changed. However, a QSY to the original peak will detune the signal. This has been confirmed in Win4K3Suite, NAP3 and HDSDR. Can someone check this please on the PX3? This is on the latest firmware of 2.19 Thanks, Tom va2fsq __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF ALC or Power level problem?
Don... I was starting to remember that. According to my meter, I see 5W, though. Any setting for the tune level, or should I worry about that? Main thing is, I don't have some kind of issue that might have lowered my power output during normal operation. Sounds like a no. My next concern is how to check or adjust the ALC or mic gain levels, to see if I'm driving the radio properly... But that's probably another thread, as well as the question has any K2 updates come out since I was last here? Thanks... Jon KA6MOK On 9/22/2014 8:34 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Jon, I assume you have the KAT2 installed and set for AUTO. If so, the K2 reduces the power to 2 watts during tuning of the ATU. Yes, turning the power knob even a little will bring up the full power setting - that is normal. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 5:24 AM, Jon wrote: Hello all... Long time no mailing list...I have a K2, with many addons, SSB, etc, have not done much ham radio the past several years, but have dusted things off and am working a few out there again. Something I've noticed, is that when I use the tune button, to auto tune the antenna tuner, I see about 5W output, no matter what the setting is. If I touch the power knob, it instantly jumps to the set power level. If I have the display set to read volts and amps, I get the set power level when I tune. Is this normal behavior, or do I have some kind of ALC level issue? Would this affect my output on SSB, (or any mode) leaving me at 5W despite my power knob setting? If this is a problem, was there a solution? As I type this, I almost feel I remember something about this, perhaps a tune only power reduction in the SW, to protect things? Not sure... I don't even remember what my FW version is, will look later. TIA... Jon, KA6MOK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] PX3 kits are shipping
Great news, the kit PX3's are shipping. Got my tracking# a couple hours ago for USPS 2 day Priority Mail. Ought to be here Wednesday if things run true to previous form. Jim - W0EB Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF ALC or Power level problem?
Jon, I would be suspicious that the wattmeter in the KAT2 is not properly balanced and calibrated for forward power. The K2 uses the DC output from that wattmeter to tell the MCU what the actual output power is, but if it is not properly calibrated, that DC voltage will not be correct and the K2 will not develop the expected power output. Review the Nulling (balance) procedure in the KAT2 manual, and then after doing that procedure, set the forward power calibration to agree with your external meter - of course that must be done with a good non-reactive 50 ohm dummy load attached. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 8:06 PM, Jon wrote: Don... I was starting to remember that. According to my meter, I see 5W, though. Any setting for the tune level, or should I worry about that? Main thing is, I don't have some kind of issue that might have lowered my power output during normal operation. Sounds like a no. My next concern is how to check or adjust the ALC or mic gain levels, to see if I'm driving the radio properly... But that's probably another thread, as well as the question has any K2 updates come out since I was last here? Thanks... Jon KA6MOK On 9/22/2014 8:34 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Jon, I assume you have the KAT2 installed and set for AUTO. If so, the K2 reduces the power to 2 watts during tuning of the ATU. Yes, turning the power knob even a little will bring up the full power setting - that is normal. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 5:24 AM, Jon wrote: Hello all... Long time no mailing list...I have a K2, with many addons, SSB, etc, have not done much ham radio the past several years, but have dusted things off and am working a few out there again. Something I've noticed, is that when I use the tune button, to auto tune the antenna tuner, I see about 5W output, no matter what the setting is. If I touch the power knob, it instantly jumps to the set power level. If I have the display set to read volts and amps, I get the set power level when I tune. Is this normal behavior, or do I have some kind of ALC level issue? Would this affect my output on SSB, (or any mode) leaving me at 5W despite my power knob setting? If this is a problem, was there a solution? As I type this, I almost feel I remember something about this, perhaps a tune only power reduction in the SW, to protect things? Not sure... I don't even remember what my FW version is, will look later. TIA... Jon, KA6MOK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Is this a serious error in KX3 Firmware affecting the IQ output?
Tom, Look up Weaver demodulation on the web and you will see that when that demodulation technique is used, there will be content in the low frequency portion of the audio and aalso on the high end, with little signal in the middle of the audio spectrum. It should happen in both LSB and USB, and I believe the starting point is for a bandwidth of less than 1.8 kHz. It seems to me that the 'center of the passband' should be about halfway between the two peaks, but a closer study of Weaver demodulation may give you a better clue to deciding how it should be displayed. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:50 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote: Hi If this is the case is there any way to determine exactly where or when this happens? Does it happen as I described? Can one use the BW command to actually compensate? Does it occur in USB only? Thanks for any insight. 73's Tom On Sep 22, 2014 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, I don't know the answer, but what I can inject is the fact that the KX3 shifts to Weaver demodulation at some point, it may be at 1.7 kHz. That would affect the signal peaks without substantially changing the sound of the signal on the KX3. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:13 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote: Hello,I received reports recently about the signal peaks that are seen in software based panadapters appear to shift by approximately 1.25kHz when the bandwidth control is changed from 1.8 to 1.7. in USB mode on the K3 At 1.8 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0180 AT 1.7 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0170 which is normal behavior. I have investigated this and it indeed happens when the bandwidth is changed from 1.8 to 1.7 The sound of the signal nor the tuning of the radio is changed. However, a QSY to the original peak will detune the signal. This has been confirmed in Win4K3Suite, NAP3 and HDSDR. Can someone check this please on the PX3? This is on the latest firmware of 2.19 Thanks, Tom va2fsq __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Is this a serious error in KX3 Firmware affecting the IQ output?
Tom, There is another thing to consider, and that is whether the operator is using Shift and Width to control the bandwidth or whether he is using HiCut and LoCut. If using Shift and Width, the center frequency would remain the same as the Width is changed. In HiCut/LoCut the center frequency will change with those settings. The use of HiCut/LoCut for SSB is easier than trying to use Shift/Width because not too much can be cut from the low end if signal intelligibility is to be maintained, yet the high frequency end can be cut substantially and still maintain intelligibility (even though much of the individual voice characteristics will disappear. There does need to be some content in the 400 to 500 Hz part of the audio spectrum for the voice to be intelligible. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:50 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote: Hi If this is the case is there any way to determine exactly where or when this happens? Does it happen as I described? Can one use the BW command to actually compensate? Does it occur in USB only? Thanks for any insight. 73's Tom On Sep 22, 2014 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, I don't know the answer, but what I can inject is the fact that the KX3 shifts to Weaver demodulation at some point, it may be at 1.7 kHz. That would affect the signal peaks without substantially changing the sound of the signal on the KX3. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:13 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote: Hello,I received reports recently about the signal peaks that are seen in software based panadapters appear to shift by approximately 1.25kHz when the bandwidth control is changed from 1.8 to 1.7. in USB mode on the K3 At 1.8 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0180 AT 1.7 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0170 which is normal behavior. I have investigated this and it indeed happens when the bandwidth is changed from 1.8 to 1.7 The sound of the signal nor the tuning of the radio is changed. However, a QSY to the original peak will detune the signal. This has been confirmed in Win4K3Suite, NAP3 and HDSDR. Can someone check this please on the PX3? This is on the latest firmware of 2.19 Thanks, Tom va2fsq __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Is this a serious error in KX3 Firmware affecting the IQ output?
Hi Don, Thanks for the info. I wish this was documented somewhere or perhaps I missed it. But it seems that so did all the other software developers making pan adopters for the kx3. Perhaps someone from Elecraft could explain this and at exactly what point it occurs? Thanks again. On Sep 22, 2014 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, There is another thing to consider, and that is whether the operator is using Shift and Width to control the bandwidth or whether he is using HiCut and LoCut. If using Shift and Width, the center frequency would remain the same as the Width is changed. In HiCut/LoCut the center frequency will change with those settings. The use of HiCut/LoCut for SSB is easier than trying to use Shift/Width because not too much can be cut from the low end if signal intelligibility is to be maintained, yet the high frequency end can be cut substantially and still maintain intelligibility (even though much of the individual voice characteristics will disappear. There does need to be some content in the 400 to 500 Hz part of the audio spectrum for the voice to be intelligible. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:50 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote: Hi If this is the case is there any way to determine exactly where or when this happens? Does it happen as I described? Can one use the BW command to actually compensate? Does it occur in USB only? Thanks for any insight. 73's Tom On Sep 22, 2014 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, I don't know the answer, but what I can inject is the fact that the KX3 shifts to Weaver demodulation at some point, it may be at 1.7 kHz. That would affect the signal peaks without substantially changing the sound of the signal on the KX3. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 7:13 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote: Hello,I received reports recently about the signal peaks that are seen in software based panadapters appear to shift by approximately 1.25kHz when the bandwidth control is changed from 1.8 to 1.7. in USB mode on the K3 At 1.8 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0180 AT 1.7 the IS command returns 1500 in USB and the BW command returns BW0170 which is normal behavior. I have investigated this and it indeed happens when the bandwidth is changed from 1.8 to 1.7 The sound of the signal nor the tuning of the radio is changed. However, a QSY to the original peak will detune the signal. This has been confirmed in Win4K3Suite, NAP3 and HDSDR. Can someone check this please on the PX3? This is on the latest firmware of 2.19 Thanks, Tom va2fsq __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
Dave, There are two ways to approach a response, a discussion of the theory or a practical implementation. I usually worry more about the practical. So, here goes. A half wave antenna in a perfectly vertical position radiates energy at low angles with little to no energy radiated upward. a 1/2 antenna that is horizontal at a height of 1/4 wave radiates energy at high angle and very little to the horizon. Everything else is somewhere in between. The question you need to answer is do you want to work DX or local nets. Your antenna configuration should follow that answer. The physical construction of the antenna is more a matter of what you can install. For instance, do you have the trees in the correct location to hang the antenna horizontally? Do you have a support high enough to make your antenna vertical. Do you have only one possible support that is not high enough to go vertical requiring an inverted Vee configuration? Typically, the physical problems are far greater than the theoretical. My suggestion is that you install the antenna in a manner that will keep it from falling and as far from your station as possible. Figure out whether you are going to chase DX or nets, and then change the antenna configuration to maximize that. There is no single perfect antenna nor is there a perfect single configuration. Everything with antennas is a compromise, so stick one up and see what happens. 73, Barry K3NDM - Original Message - From: w7...@cox.net To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 5:49:41 PM Subject: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave Hi All, Here's a question for the antenna gurus among the group. It's about the best way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna. First of all, I assume most would say to put the entire antenna up in the air as high as possible, and in a horizontal plane. I understand the advantage of doing that. However, what about a situation where you only have one support? My first inclination would be to deploy the antenna like a sloper, with the far end at the top of the support, and the other end at, or near, the rig. I started wondering, though, about where the maximum radiation occurs. In a half wave antenna, the current max is more or less in the center of the antenna. So, would it be better to get the center of the antenna as high as possible (taking advantage of the one support you might have), and then maybe bending the other half back downwards, sort of in inverted vee fashion? That would be as opposed to just running the antenna up in a straight line to the top of the support, thus possibly only getting the center about half as high as the top of the support. Here's a more definitive description of what I am thinking about, and compares to the situation I have. I have a pole that goes up approx. 40 feet. If I deploy the EFHW in sloper fashion, with one end near the ground close to the rig, the center of the antenna would only be at approx. 20 feet. Also, On 40 meters (the band I would be using), the pole would need to be some 50+ feet from the rig. Alternatively, what if I move the center of the antenna up closer to the top of the pole, and have the rest of the antenna slope back down to another tie point? Wouldn't this be apt to work better, even though I have created something similar to an inverted vee? I know a couple of RVer's who do something similar. They have two poles in use, one of which is much taller. They deploy their antenna so that the mid point of the antenna is near the top of the tallest pole, then over to another shorter pole, and then back down that 2nd pole vertically--almost a somewhat slanted U shape. Their results seem to be decent, but I don't know if there is a better way to do it. Their method condenses the lateral space required to deploy the antenna, thus fitting within most RV sites. I don't know exactly what this does to the impedance at the feed point, but they use tuners to resolve any mismatch. The pole I have is somewhat taller than either of the ones they use. Anyway, I assume I could do the sloper approach without creating any serious issues, but I'm curious about what others think of the vee approach to get the antenna center higher. I appreciate any suggestions. Dave W7AQK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k3...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
ORIGINAL MESSAGE (may be snipped) On Mon, 22 Sep 2014 16:21:09 -0700, k9yc wrote: Not necessarily the best way, but here's a really good feeding method if you have a suitable sky hook! Also look at N6LF's ideas, on his website. Google to find it. http://k9yc.com/VerticalDipole.pdf 73, Jim K9YC REPLY: Very clever, just might try this myself. This is basically a variation on the ancient coaxial sleeve antenna, with a choke substituting for the separate sleeve. Nice! 50+ years ago I used the original coaxial sleeve antenna on six meters when I had a Tech license and it worked well. Thanks for the idea. 73, Bill W6WRT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Low Serial Numbered K3
Any problems with buying a K3 with a low serial number, say that has had hardware updates and alignments? Darryl, KK5IB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Serial Numbered K3
Darryl, I would say no problem at all. consistent with the Elecraft upgrade policy, even the earliest K3 can be upgraded to the most recent level. If all the hardware updates have been applied and the firmware updated, it is just as good as a brand new K3. If you want to check an older K3 to see if the hardware mods have been installed, go to the Mods and Notes tab on the Elecraft website www.elecraft.com and download the applicable mod instructions - most of them tell you how to check to see if the mod has been installed - some may require physical inspection, but others can be determined by easier means. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/22/2014 11:18 PM, Darryl J Kelly wrote: Any problems with buying a K3 with a low serial number, say that has had hardware updates and alignments? Darryl, KK5IB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
I agree. I would just add that if you use an inverted L or V configuration, be sure the included angle is 90 degrees or greater. Otherwise there will be some cancellation of radiation from the two legs. As a thought experiment, consider what would happen if you reduced the angle to 0. That would make the antenna into a parallel line which wouldn't radiate at all. Vic, k2vco On Sep 23, 2014, at 2:20 AM, Rick Dettinger k7m...@gmail.com wrote: I have a similar antenna. I would use the inverted V or L configuration. You want the center of the antenna as high as possible. Mine is an inverted L, but the far end actually is about 20 feet below the center, which is 50 feet high. The maximum radiation is where the current is greatest, a quarter wave from the far end, which has no current. Mine works quite well for a single wire. I made it a little more than a half wave at the lowest frequency, so I can use a remote tuner at the base for other bands. I feed it against a less than great radial system for all bands, but for a half wave, this might not be very important. The base is 140 feet from my shack, fed with coax in a conduit. I also have a 43 foot vertical, which I can select by remote switch. Except on 20 M, the inverted L usually works better. 73, Rick K7MW On Sep 22, 2014, at 2:49 PM, w7...@cox.net wrote: Hi All, Here's a question for the antenna gurus among the group. It's about the best way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna. First of all, I assume most would say to put the entire antenna up in the air as high as possible, and in a horizontal plane. I understand the advantage of doing that. However, what about a situation where you only have one support? My first inclination would be to deploy the antenna like a sloper, with the far end at the top of the support, and the other end at, or near, the rig. I started wondering, though, about where the maximum radiation occurs. In a half wave antenna, the current max is more or less in the center of the antenna. So, would it be better to get the center of the antenna as high as possible (taking advantage of the one support you might have), and then maybe bending the other half back downwards, sort of in inverted vee fashion? That would be as opposed to just running the antenna up in a straight line to the top of the support, thus possibly only getting the center about half as high as the top of the support. Here's a more definitive description of what I am thinking about, and compares to the situation I have. I have a pole that goes up approx. 40 feet. If I deploy the EFHW in sloper fashion, with one end near the ground close to the rig, the center of the antenna would only be at approx. 20 feet. Also, On 40 meters (the band I would be using), the pole would need to be some 50+ feet from the rig. Alternatively, what if I move the center of the antenna up closer to the top of the pole, and have the rest of the antenna slope back down to another tie point? Wouldn't this be apt to work better, even though I have created something similar to an inverted vee? I know a couple of RVer's who do something similar. They have two poles in use, one of which is much taller. They deploy their antenna so that the mid point of the antenna is near the top of the tallest pole, then over to another shorter pole, and then back down that 2nd pole vertically--almost a somewhat slanted U shape. Their results seem to be decent, but I don't know if there is a better way to do it. Their method condenses the lateral space required to deploy the antenna, thus fitting within most RV sites. I don't know exactly what this does to the impedance at the feed point, but they use tuners to resolve any mismatch. The pole I have is somewhat taller than either of the ones they use. Anyway, I assume I could do the sloper approach without creating any serious issues, but I'm curious about what others think of the vee approach to get the antenna center higher. I appreciate any suggestions. Dave W7AQK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k7m...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k2vco@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home:
[Elecraft] KX3 NAP3 Win4K3 Off Frequency
Anyone running NAP3 or Win4K3 notice the frequency selection and display in the panadaptor spectrum display/waterfall is off frequency? As I try to make selection or tune I seem to be chasing signals up and down the bands on LSB USB. AM appears to be ok. Running latest firmware load 02.19 TIA 73 de WB3FSR PeterV Jersey Shore __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
The radiation patten from a half wave antenna is the same whether it is end fed or center fed. An inverted vee is an inverted vee, regardless of whether you feed it at the center or the end. The same for a sloper. Put up the wire and the feed where it works for you, sloper, horizontal, or vee; and end or center fed. wunder K6WRU CM87wj http://observer.wunderwood.org/ On Sep 22, 2014, at 9:29 PM, Vic Rosenthal k2vco@gmail.com wrote: I agree. I would just add that if you use an inverted L or V configuration, be sure the included angle is 90 degrees or greater. Otherwise there will be some cancellation of radiation from the two legs. As a thought experiment, consider what would happen if you reduced the angle to 0. That would make the antenna into a parallel line which wouldn't radiate at all. Vic, k2vco On Sep 23, 2014, at 2:20 AM, Rick Dettinger k7m...@gmail.com wrote: I have a similar antenna. I would use the inverted V or L configuration. You want the center of the antenna as high as possible. Mine is an inverted L, but the far end actually is about 20 feet below the center, which is 50 feet high. The maximum radiation is where the current is greatest, a quarter wave from the far end, which has no current. Mine works quite well for a single wire. I made it a little more than a half wave at the lowest frequency, so I can use a remote tuner at the base for other bands. I feed it against a less than great radial system for all bands, but for a half wave, this might not be very important. The base is 140 feet from my shack, fed with coax in a conduit. I also have a 43 foot vertical, which I can select by remote switch. Except on 20 M, the inverted L usually works better. 73, Rick K7MW On Sep 22, 2014, at 2:49 PM, w7...@cox.net wrote: Hi All, Here's a question for the antenna gurus among the group. It's about the best way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna. First of all, I assume most would say to put the entire antenna up in the air as high as possible, and in a horizontal plane. I understand the advantage of doing that. However, what about a situation where you only have one support? My first inclination would be to deploy the antenna like a sloper, with the far end at the top of the support, and the other end at, or near, the rig. I started wondering, though, about where the maximum radiation occurs. In a half wave antenna, the current max is more or less in the center of the antenna. So, would it be better to get the center of the antenna as high as possible (taking advantage of the one support you might have), and then maybe bending the other half back downwards, sort of in inverted vee fashion? That would be as opposed to just running the antenna up in a straight line to the top of the support, thus possibly only getting the center about half as high as the top of the support. Here's a more definitive description of what I am thinking about, and compares to the situation I have. I have a pole that goes up approx. 40 feet. If I deploy the EFHW in sloper fashion, with one end near the ground close to the rig, the center of the antenna would only be at approx. 20 feet. Also, On 40 meters (the band I would be using), the pole would need to be some 50+ feet from the rig. Alternatively, what if I move the center of the antenna up closer to the top of the pole, and have the rest of the antenna slope back down to another tie point? Wouldn't this be apt to work better, even though I have created something similar to an inverted vee? I know a couple of RVer's who do something similar. They have two poles in use, one of which is much taller. They deploy their antenna so that the mid point of the antenna is near the top of the tallest pole, then over to another shorter pole, and then back down that 2nd pole vertically--almost a somewhat slanted U shape. Their results seem to be decent, but I don't know if there is a better way to do it. Their method condenses the lateral space required to deploy the antenna, thus fitting within most RV sites. I don't know exactly what this does to the impedance at the feed point, but they use tuners to resolve any mismatch. The pole I have is somewhat taller than either of the ones they use. Anyway, I assume I could do the sloper approach without creating any serious issues, but I'm curious about what others think of the vee approach to get the antenna center higher. I appreciate any suggestions. Dave W7AQK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k7m...@gmail.com
Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave
On Mon,9/22/2014 6:08 PM, k3...@comcast.net wrote: A half wave antenna in a perfectly vertical position radiates energy at low angles with little to no energy radiated upward. a 1/2 antenna that is horizontal at a height of 1/4 wave radiates energy at high angle and very little to the horizon. Everything else is somewhere in between. Right on. I've addressed this in considerable detail in http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Serial Numbered K3
Mine is #642. It did a short stint in the Elecraft Medical Center for slightly Sickly Electronics early on for a failed component I didn't want to track down. They brought it up to what was then production. The only other mod I've done was the IF output gain mod [destroy an SM resistor and replace it with a different value resistor] when I got the P3 much much later. K3's don't seem to wear out, and unlike me, are not affected by an accumulation of birthdays. OK, I finally had the cracking knobs syndrome, Elecraft sent me new ones, I had saved the allen wrench for them, and all was well. I would make sure that any HW mods published after the one you're considering was born are not critical to your operating requirements, particularly if your needs are somewhat esoteric like EME and the like. Load the latest production FW, run through the calibration procedures [no test equipment required], and call CQ. Mine works just like advertised. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
