Re: [Elecraft] 1 Khz filter

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

I am a CW operator and I have 2.8kHz, 1kHz, 400Hz and 200Hz filters in 
my K3. I think this is serious overkill (especially since I have another 
similar set in the subreceiver).


The function of the crystal filters is to allow you to operate closer 
than (roughly) the filter bandwidth to a signal that is S9+20 dB or more 
without the interfering signal having any effect on the desired signal. 
The continuously adjustable DSP filter is a brick wall for undesired 
signals weaker than that. But stronger signals can activate the hardware 
AGC in the K3 or K3S and cause desensitization even though the QRM is 
outside the DSP bandpass.


The optimum situation is to have a filter whose bandwidth is close to or 
slightly wider than the DSP bandwidth that you are using. So if you 
often operate with the DSP bandwidth set to, say, 900Hz, having a 1kHz 
filter would be convenient. If you only had the stock 2.7 kHz filter, 
then an undesired S9+20 dB signal 1 kHz away from the signal you are 
listening to might cause the sensitivity of the receiver to vary and 
thus interfere with your ability to copy, even though you wouldn't hear 
the interfering signal.


So it depends on your operating habits. Since I am in the habit of 
listening to CW with the DSP set to 400Hz or below, the 1kHz filter 
doesn't do anything for me. I also think the value of the 200 Hz filter 
is marginal, although it has been helpful at times (like when a 
super-strong station one hop away from me is trying to deliberately QRM 
a DX station but is not exactly on the DX frequency).


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 25 Jul 2017 22:49, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

What is this used for?

John KK9A

From: Ralph Matheny K8RYU
Mon Jul 24 16:30:29 EDT 2017


Anybody got a 1 Khz filter for K3 they wanna sell??

de K8RYU

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Re: [Elecraft] 1 Khz filter

[Jim Brown]

On 7/25/2017 7:11 PM, Bill Breeden wrote:
I found that I was missing stations that were calling on the skirts of 
my 400 Hz filter, so I added a 1 kHz filter.  When I tune the band to 
answer CQs I still prefer listen through the 400 Hz filter. 


It's important to remember that IF bandwidth is determined by DSP, and 
continuously adjustable. The plug-in filters are ROOFING filters -- 
their primary function is to protect the DSP from overload by very 
strong stations outside the bandwidth of the DSP IF. They have the 
secondary function of adding the filtering provided by the DSP, and when 
the DSP and the roofing filter are at the same bandwidth, the filter 
skirts become steeper (sharper).


Bottom line -- we don't need to buy a 1 kHz filter to get 1 kHz IF 
bandwidth, because the DSP already provides that. This is not your 
grandfather's radio! :)


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] 1 Khz filter

[Bill Breeden]

I added a 1 kHz filter to my "Field Day" K3 for the same reason, and I 
really like it.  When calling CQ on CW during Field Day a lot of folks 
who answer are using radios they aren't very familiar with and as a 
result they aren't zero beat very accurately when they call.  I found 
that I was missing stations that were calling on the skirts of my 400 Hz 
filter, so I added a 1 kHz filter.  When I tune the band to answer CQs I 
still prefer listen through the 400 Hz filter.


73,

Bill - NA5DX


On 7/25/2017 8:07 PM, Merv Schweigert via Elecraft wrote:
Same here,  perfect for contesting on CW,  I like to be able to hear 
almost

up to a KC up the band to pick up those who cannot zero beat,
I have 400 and 200 filters also,  but only use them for extreme 
conditions,

Merv K9FD/KH6


Hello John,

It's used for CW. I have a pair of them (main and sub rx) and find 
that CW
sounds more pleasing through this filter. I operate about 90% CW and 
I use

this filter most of the time, engaging narrower filters only when it
becomes really necessary.

73,

Dale -- WA8SRA

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 3:49 PM, j...@kk9a.com  wrote:


What is this used for?

John KK9A

From: Ralph Matheny K8RYU
Mon Jul 24 16:30:29 EDT 2017


Anybody got a 1 Khz filter for K3 they wanna sell??

de K8RYU

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Re: [Elecraft] [DETECTED AS SPAM] Re: 1 Khz filter

[Merv Schweigert via Elecraft]

Same here,  perfect for contesting on CW,  I like to be able to hear almost
up to a KC up the band to pick up those who cannot zero beat,
I have 400 and 200 filters also,  but only use them for extreme conditions,
Merv K9FD/KH6


Hello John,

It's used for CW. I have a pair of them (main and sub rx) and find that CW
sounds more pleasing through this filter. I operate about 90% CW and I use
this filter most of the time, engaging narrower filters only when it
becomes really necessary.

73,

Dale -- WA8SRA

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 3:49 PM, j...@kk9a.com  wrote:


What is this used for?

John KK9A

From: Ralph Matheny K8RYU
Mon Jul 24 16:30:29 EDT 2017


Anybody got a 1 Khz filter for K3 they wanna sell??

de K8RYU

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Re: [Elecraft] 1 Khz filter

[Dale Boresz]

Hello John,

It's used for CW. I have a pair of them (main and sub rx) and find that CW
sounds more pleasing through this filter. I operate about 90% CW and I use
this filter most of the time, engaging narrower filters only when it
becomes really necessary.

73,

Dale -- WA8SRA

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 3:49 PM, j...@kk9a.com  wrote:

> What is this used for?
>
> John KK9A
>
> From: Ralph Matheny K8RYU
> Mon Jul 24 16:30:29 EDT 2017
>
>
> Anybody got a 1 Khz filter for K3 they wanna sell??
>
> de K8RYU
>
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[Elecraft] For Sale KPA500F / KAT500F

[KC6CNN]

I am selling my Factory built KPA500 amp Serial # 2217 and my factory built
KAT500 antenna tuner. 
Both work great and are clean and a non smoking shack. 
I am selling these together and do not wish to separate them. 
I am selling them for $2400 
Thanks
Gerald Manthey





-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K1 # 0014
K3 # 6294
KX3 # 757
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/For-Sale-KPA500F-KAT500F-tp7632688.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] TX Test Mode garbage

[Wes Stewart]

I received an email from a German ham telling me that he's observing the same 
thing that I reported a couple of years ago. Specifically an audible "clicking" 
sound in both my K3S and KPA500 that coincides with CW keying.  See this thread: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-clicking-td7596512.html


Since there was no "fix" from Elecraft I guess time dulled my sensitivity to it 
until I received the email and then I thought to listen for it again.  It's 
thunderstorm season here in the AZ desert so my antenna cables are all 
disconnected. Because the problem manifests whether or not RF is being generated 
I put the K3S into TX Test mode and put the KPA500 into operate.  As before, the 
clicking is still there in both the K3S and KPA500.


But while doing this I noted that the SWR LEDs on the KAT500 were flashing.  
Since the antennas are disconnected this would be normal if RF was being 
generated, however as stated, I'm in Test mode.  One of my tuner ports has a 
dummy load attached so I switched to it and lo and behold the amp output LED was 
showing ~50W.


I have an original K3 so I tuned it to the K3S frequency, keyed the K3S and 
listened on the K3.  I could hear a non-coherent, clicky "garbage" signal that 
seemed to have a spectrum roughly the width of the TX filter.  Because both 
radios were running on the same power supply to eliminate the possibility of 
crosstalk via that path I fired up an SDR-IQ running on a totally separate 
computer and looked at the spectrum.  Although it's non-synchronous to the 
keying I can see a signal that does have an envelope roughly shaped like a BPF 
although it's far from flat in the passband.


The amplitude of this is affected by the output power setting and is present 
with the KPA500 in Standby.  It also seems to be thermally sensitive; becoming 
less conspicuous the longer things run.


Wes  N7WS

.


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[Elecraft] 1 Khz filter

[j...@kk9a.com]

What is this used for?

John KK9A

From: Ralph Matheny K8RYU
Mon Jul 24 16:30:29 EDT 2017


Anybody got a 1 Khz filter for K3 they wanna sell??

de K8RYU

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

[Mark Goldberg]

I found this site:

https://engineerdog.com/2015/01/11/10-tricks-engineers-need-to-know-about-fasteners/

They suggest that studies show lockwashers are ineffective, but then go on
to reference other studies that show they are.

I guess is all comes down to that common answer in engineering: "It
depends". You have to design to your specific conditions, and probably
should do some dynamic testing with fatigue loads as referenced in the
article. Since I do not have testing capabilities, I use both lockwashers
and threadlocker, appropriately chosen for the application using
manufacturer's data sheets and selection guides, and hope for the best.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 9:12 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> It's useful to remember that a screw (or bolt) is a spring. When tightened
> it stretches lengthwise. Like any spring, it offers the best "grip" when
> subjected to the right range of pressure.
>
> Way back in my High School days (1950's - before Mercury was a toxic
> substance) I watched a demonstration using a bolt and nut made of frozen
> Mercury. Mercury is not elastic. Liquid Mercury was poured into molds for a
> nut and bolt and hardened with liquid nitrogen. Using gloves, the
> demonstrator assembled the nut and bolt using a large wrench to apply a
> great deal of torque. That done, anyone could loosen it without a wrench by
> just twisting the nut or bolt with minimal finger pressure (inside the
> gloves of course). There was no resistance since Mercury does not stretch.
>
> It's easy to over torque (stretch) small screws. That's why the Elecraft
> kit
> assembly manuals do not recommend using power screwdrivers. The Elecraft
> factory in Watsonville is equipped with special torque-limiting power
> screwdrivers to allow quick assembly with screws not so tight they are
> damaged or broken.
>
> Since a screw is basically an inclined plane that stretches the screw when
> tightened, vibration will allow the screw to turn (slide along the plane of
> the threads), hence the use of lock washers or chemical compounds in such
> environments to stop any movement.
>
> Perhaps the issue with the KX2 paddles is the vibration as the contacts
> collide allowing the screws to turn. Working remotely on the Elecraft
> manuals I've not been directly involved with the issue, so that is pure
> speculation.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3S USB

[Chris via Elecraft]

I have a K3S and the USB has stopped working

is there any way of testing it

thanks GM4YLN Chris

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

[Matt NQ6N]

I have had this issue with my KX2 paddle and have two observations:

On my paddle, the screw that is meant to hold the standoff to the plastic
body will actually screw tightly into the plastic body *without* the
standoff.  When this happens, additional torque applied with a screwdriver
has no effect on the standoff.

When my paddle got loose I tightened the screw with a screwdriver, but then
later (after it got loose multiple times) I realized that the screw felt
tight because the threads were *gripping the plastic. *The connection with
the standoff was still fairly loose, the torque I put on the screwdriver
was blocked by the tight fit of the screw's threads to the plastic.

The solution I used was to turn the standoff while jogging the screw back
and forth with a screwdriver until I felt the standoff grip against the
other side of the plastic, then continue to jog the assembly while
tightening the screw about another quarter turn, to the point where the
screw was nice and tight against the standoff and *also* tight against the
plastic.  This approach has kept the screw and standoff stable without the
need for glue.

I think that if future releases of the paddle were manufactured with a
slightly larger hole in the plastic, then it would be easier to achieve a
tight fit between the screw and the standoff.  I'd also be curious if a
small lock-washer on the standoff side might help make the assembly more
immune to vibration.

73,
Matt NQ6N





On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 11:12 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> It's useful to remember that a screw (or bolt) is a spring. When tightened
> it stretches lengthwise. Like any spring, it offers the best "grip" when
> subjected to the right range of pressure.
>
> Way back in my High School days (1950's - before Mercury was a toxic
> substance) I watched a demonstration using a bolt and nut made of frozen
> Mercury. Mercury is not elastic. Liquid Mercury was poured into molds for a
> nut and bolt and hardened with liquid nitrogen. Using gloves, the
> demonstrator assembled the nut and bolt using a large wrench to apply a
> great deal of torque. That done, anyone could loosen it without a wrench by
> just twisting the nut or bolt with minimal finger pressure (inside the
> gloves of course). There was no resistance since Mercury does not stretch.
>
> It's easy to over torque (stretch) small screws. That's why the Elecraft
> kit
> assembly manuals do not recommend using power screwdrivers. The Elecraft
> factory in Watsonville is equipped with special torque-limiting power
> screwdrivers to allow quick assembly with screws not so tight they are
> damaged or broken.
>
> Since a screw is basically an inclined plane that stretches the screw when
> tightened, vibration will allow the screw to turn (slide along the plane of
> the threads), hence the use of lock washers or chemical compounds in such
> environments to stop any movement.
>
> Perhaps the issue with the KX2 paddles is the vibration as the contacts
> collide allowing the screws to turn. Working remotely on the Elecraft
> manuals I've not been directly involved with the issue, so that is pure
> speculation.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Re: K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

My K3S does show the voltage and current on its display.  In receive it 
nominally is 13.8 volts and 1.05 amps.   For transmit, CW mode key 
closed 100 watts output the current is 18.5 amps. Both of these values 
concur with my power supply metering.


I've experienced no shut down while operating JT-65 or more recently 
FT-8.  For JT-65 I normally set the PWR to 50 watts. For FT-8, being a 
shorter transmit time, although duty cycle is the same as JT-65 or about 
50%, I do sometimes run 100 watts. More often I find 25 to50 watts to be 
most adequate.


73

Bob, K4TAX

K3S s/n 10163


On 7/25/2017 11:14 AM, Colin wrote:
Buddy/Mike, further to my earlier email the current on receive is 
actually 1.05A as measured on a digital multimeter and not 5A as 
indicated on the PSU analogue meter.


Of course this doesn't solve the immediate problem.

73

Colin, G3PSM






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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Re: K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65

[Mike Flowers]

If you have a dummy load, try running JT8 or JT65 into that at your usual
power.If problem does not reoccur, then likely RFI is the culprit.

If it does reoccur, then likely the K3 is having issues.

- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, Past President - NCDXC 

> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
> boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Colin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 9:15 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: Re: K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65
> 
> Buddy/Mike, further to my earlier email the current on receive is actually
1.05A
> as measured on a digital multimeter and not 5A as indicated on the PSU
analogue
> meter.
> 
> Of course this doesn't solve the immediate problem.
> 
> 73
> 
> Colin, G3PSM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  Forwarded Message 
> Subject:  Re: [Elecraft] K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65
> Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2017 16:01:10 +0100
> From: Colin 
> To:   elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> 
> 
> Mike, I am experiencing a similar thing.   I had a session on FT8 a few
> days ago and my K3 shut down completely, in fact it blew a 20A fuse on my
> alternate 20A PSU but just shuts down on my 40A supply.
> 
> One thing I notice is that it appears to be drawing nearly 5 Amps on
receive
> which is excessive and one occasion while I was testing actually shut down
on
> receive.
> 
> It isn't the DC lead as I have replaced that with a factory supplied item.
> 
> I'm still working on it but unless the experts in this group have any
ideas I will
> attempt to re-invent the wheel.
> 
> 73
> 
> Colin, G3PSM
> 
> On 23/07/2017 03:17, Michael Walker wrote:
> > Hi Buddy
> >
> > I can thing of 2 things.  Overheating .. not likely since usually the
> > RF section shut downs.
> >
> > RF getting into the power supply.  Grounding might not make a
difference.
> > RF Chokes on the power supply DC cord might help.
> >
> > Oh, the 3rd thing, Is your power supply up to the task?  Might it be
> > failing? Throw a volt meter on it.
> >
> > Mike va3mw
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 9:28 PM, buddy s  wrote:
> >
> >> i am using wsjt-x software for jt65 using my k3.  after operating for
> >> approximately 2 hours today,  i answered a cq, and after 30 seconds
> >> the k3 shut down completely.  i waited a few minutes and changed
> >> antennas.  the k3 powered up, and i tried again.  same result,
> >> shutdown after 30 seconds of transmitting.  my power is set to 30
> >> watts, and i am using a kat500 with both antennas.
> >>
> >> any suggestions, any questions?
> >>
> >> 73 de
> >> W3BS, Buddy Spiegel
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> > colin.g3...@gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Re: K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65

[Colin]

Buddy/Mike, further to my earlier email the current on receive is 
actually 1.05A as measured on a digital multimeter and not 5A as 
indicated on the PSU analogue meter.


Of course this doesn't solve the immediate problem.

73

Colin, G3PSM





 Forwarded Message 
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65
Date:   Tue, 25 Jul 2017 16:01:10 +0100
From:   Colin 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net



Mike, I am experiencing a similar thing.   I had a session on FT8 a few
days ago and my K3 shut down completely, in fact it blew a 20A fuse on
my alternate 20A PSU but just shuts down on my 40A supply.

One thing I notice is that it appears to be drawing nearly 5 Amps on
receive which is excessive and one occasion while I was testing actually
shut down on receive.

It isn't the DC lead as I have replaced that with a factory supplied item.

I'm still working on it but unless the experts in this group have any
ideas I will attempt to re-invent the wheel.

73

Colin, G3PSM

On 23/07/2017 03:17, Michael Walker wrote:

Hi Buddy

I can thing of 2 things.  Overheating .. not likely since usually the RF
section shut downs.

RF getting into the power supply.  Grounding might not make a difference.
RF Chokes on the power supply DC cord might help.

Oh, the 3rd thing, Is your power supply up to the task?  Might it be
failing? Throw a volt meter on it.

Mike va3mw


On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 9:28 PM, buddy s  wrote:


i am using wsjt-x software for jt65 using my k3.  after operating for
approximately 2 hours today,  i answered a cq, and after 30 seconds the k3
shut down completely.  i waited a few minutes and changed antennas.  the k3
powered up, and i tried again.  same result, shutdown after 30 seconds of
transmitting.  my power is set to 30 watts, and i am using a kat500 with
both antennas.

any suggestions, any questions?

73 de
W3BS, Buddy Spiegel
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It's useful to remember that a screw (or bolt) is a spring. When tightened
it stretches lengthwise. Like any spring, it offers the best "grip" when
subjected to the right range of pressure. 

Way back in my High School days (1950's - before Mercury was a toxic
substance) I watched a demonstration using a bolt and nut made of frozen
Mercury. Mercury is not elastic. Liquid Mercury was poured into molds for a
nut and bolt and hardened with liquid nitrogen. Using gloves, the
demonstrator assembled the nut and bolt using a large wrench to apply a
great deal of torque. That done, anyone could loosen it without a wrench by
just twisting the nut or bolt with minimal finger pressure (inside the
gloves of course). There was no resistance since Mercury does not stretch.

It's easy to over torque (stretch) small screws. That's why the Elecraft kit
assembly manuals do not recommend using power screwdrivers. The Elecraft
factory in Watsonville is equipped with special torque-limiting power
screwdrivers to allow quick assembly with screws not so tight they are
damaged or broken. 

Since a screw is basically an inclined plane that stretches the screw when
tightened, vibration will allow the screw to turn (slide along the plane of
the threads), hence the use of lock washers or chemical compounds in such
environments to stop any movement. 

Perhaps the issue with the KX2 paddles is the vibration as the contacts
collide allowing the screws to turn. Working remotely on the Elecraft
manuals I've not been directly involved with the issue, so that is pure
speculation.

73, Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SHUTTING DOWN OPERATING JT65

[Colin]

Mike, I am experiencing a similar thing.   I had a session on FT8 a few 
days ago and my K3 shut down completely, in fact it blew a 20A fuse on 
my alternate 20A PSU but just shuts down on my 40A supply.


One thing I notice is that it appears to be drawing nearly 5 Amps on 
receive which is excessive and one occasion while I was testing actually 
shut down on receive.


It isn't the DC lead as I have replaced that with a factory supplied item.

I'm still working on it but unless the experts in this group have any 
ideas I will attempt to re-invent the wheel.


73

Colin, G3PSM

On 23/07/2017 03:17, Michael Walker wrote:

Hi Buddy

I can thing of 2 things.  Overheating .. not likely since usually the RF
section shut downs.

RF getting into the power supply.  Grounding might not make a difference.
RF Chokes on the power supply DC cord might help.

Oh, the 3rd thing, Is your power supply up to the task?  Might it be
failing? Throw a volt meter on it.

Mike va3mw


On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 9:28 PM, buddy s  wrote:


i am using wsjt-x software for jt65 using my k3.  after operating for
approximately 2 hours today,  i answered a cq, and after 30 seconds the k3
shut down completely.  i waited a few minutes and changed antennas.  the k3
powered up, and i tried again.  same result, shutdown after 30 seconds of
transmitting.  my power is set to 30 watts, and i am using a kat500 with
both antennas.

any suggestions, any questions?

73 de
W3BS, Buddy Spiegel
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

As I learned from my previous manufacturing experience and knowledge, a 
threaded fastener, a.k.a. screw, has a specific torque value which 
should be applied to make it secure.   The value depends on the screw 
design, flat head, binder head, round head, undercut, pan head, etc.
The only way to attain this value is to use a torque calibrated 
screwdriver or wrench to secure the fastener.Also, depending on 
application, the proper lock washer, internal tooth, external tooth or 
split spring should be applied.


Additional measures may be required when the screw is used with 
dis-similar materials.   Hence one of the Loctite products, again 
application specific, may be required.


73

Bob, K4TAX

K3S s/n 10163



On 7/25/2017 8:14 AM, Dave Belville wrote:

Hi Tom,

First let me say that I am not trying to argue with you or correct you. I
just want to share what little bit of knowledge I have.

In my many years as a master mechanic in the heavy duty truck industry, I
can tell you without reservation that unless you use physical force
(screwdriver, etc.) and turn the screw, it will not come loose from the
type of use a set of paddles on a KX2 would get and could be considered a
permanent fix. We used Blue Loctite for countless purposes and I never saw
it come loose on a truck which would have put many times more vibration,
stress and possibly heat on the fastener. Now, that being said, you need to
have the fastener clean but in the case of the KX2 paddles, it should not
be an issue. I would not recommend using red Loctite. You may not get the
fastener out even if you want to without destroying something. I know that
from experience.

As far as the design goes, I would not say it is a lousy design. I would
say that they just left a step out. They forgot the blue Loctite. Elecraft
isn't perfect, but they are darn close.

73

Dave KD9VT





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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

[Dave Belville]

Hi Tom,

First let me say that I am not trying to argue with you or correct you. I
just want to share what little bit of knowledge I have.

In my many years as a master mechanic in the heavy duty truck industry, I
can tell you without reservation that unless you use physical force
(screwdriver, etc.) and turn the screw, it will not come loose from the
type of use a set of paddles on a KX2 would get and could be considered a
permanent fix. We used Blue Loctite for countless purposes and I never saw
it come loose on a truck which would have put many times more vibration,
stress and possibly heat on the fastener. Now, that being said, you need to
have the fastener clean but in the case of the KX2 paddles, it should not
be an issue. I would not recommend using red Loctite. You may not get the
fastener out even if you want to without destroying something. I know that
from experience.

As far as the design goes, I would not say it is a lousy design. I would
say that they just left a step out. They forgot the blue Loctite. Elecraft
isn't perfect, but they are darn close.

73

Dave KD9VT

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 7:47 AM, Tom Francis, W1TEF 
wrote:

> The point should be that a "drop of LocTite" isn't going to fix the
> problem over time.
>
> You should not have to modify a product immediately out of the box because
> of a lousy
> design.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Tom, W1TEF
> Lexington, SC
>
> On 7/24/2017 6:22 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote:
>
>> This is the response I received from Elecraft support:
>>
>> On 06/27/2017 01:34 PM, Elecraft Support wrote:
>>
>>> To your question, yes, we are now using a drop of Locktite Blue (not
>>> Red) on the threads for the 2 screws that hold the round contacts in
>>> place.
>>>
>> John KN5L
>>
>> On 07/24/2017 10:45 AM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:
>>
>>> The issue is not that the paddles don't leave the factory fully tested
>>> and operational, but that the stand-offs (E700348) loosen after a period
>>> of time from normal use.
>>>
>>> As posted by several of us previously, the fix is simply to place a
>>> small dab of Loctite Blue on the threads of the two flathead screws
>>> (E700277) which secure the stand-offs.
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

[Tom Francis, W1TEF]

The point should be that a "drop of LocTite" isn't going to fix the 
problem over time.


You should not have to modify a product immediately out of the box 
because of a lousy

design.

Best regards,

Tom, W1TEF
Lexington, SC

On 7/24/2017 6:22 PM, John Oppenheimer wrote:

This is the response I received from Elecraft support:

On 06/27/2017 01:34 PM, Elecraft Support wrote:

To your question, yes, we are now using a drop of Locktite Blue (not
Red) on the threads for the 2 screws that hold the round contacts in
place.

John KN5L

On 07/24/2017 10:45 AM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:

The issue is not that the paddles don't leave the factory fully tested
and operational, but that the stand-offs (E700348) loosen after a period
of time from normal use.

As posted by several of us previously, the fix is simply to place a
small dab of Loctite Blue on the threads of the two flathead screws
(E700277) which secure the stand-offs.

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Update

[Richard Thorne]

Any updates on when ordering will start and when the amp will ship?

Thanks in advance.

Rich - N5ZC
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