Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

2018-08-27 Thread Bill Johnson
Don,  Great reminder.  I follow your suggestions, to a fault.  In the long past 
not so much but the quality of the Elecraft equipment changed my practices 
going back to the K2.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

https://wrj-tech.com/

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2018 10:02 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

Many hams equate no signal band noise to receiver sensitivity.  Nothing could 
be further from the truth.  Bob has pointed out some very good guidelines.

For those who do not want to play with the RF Gain to simplify things, the 
attenuation and preamp settings will still do a great deal to help.

Listen to a no-signal spot on the band.  Listening to the noise level, try 
attenuation first - if you can still hear the band noise, leave it there.
On bands where the receiver seems silent, first turn off attenuation, and if 
you do not hear band noise at a low level, turn on some preamplification.

When you can just barely hear the no-signal band noise, signals will tend to 
pop out of the noise.

Just a note - the KX2 and KX3 design point is to always have the preamp on for 
the best front end "out of passband" protection.  SDR receivers are different 
animals and may change our habits with using the receiver controls in the 
future.  Attenuation is still effective.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2018 1:01 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> I agree with Peter in that many hams use too much RX RF Gain and too 
> little attenuation.    Per one authority on receiver performance, the 
> optimum receiver performance occurs when the no signal band noise is 
> about 10 dB above the receiver noise floor. Since we can't adjust the 
> receiver noise floor, we can adjust the overall signal coming into the 
> receiver by using attenuation and RF gain reduction.  Typically, 160M 
> - 40M one should expect to run 15 dB to 10 dB attenuation unless you 
> are in a super low noise receiving environment.  For higher frequency 
> bands, less attenuation and more RF gain is found to be desired.   
> Still maintaining the 10 dB practice regardless of band and antenna 
> and band noise.
> 
> As example; if your no signal band noise is S-5 or -97 dBm and the 
> receiver noise floor is -130 dBm,  thus a difference of 33 dB, then 
> the optimum performance will occur with about 15 dB attenuation and 6 
> to 8 dB of RF gain reduction.   Or  use 10 dB of attenuation and 12 to 
> 13 dB of RF gain reduction.     It will vary from band to band and 
> antenna to antenna but will generally be stable across the band for a 
> short period of time,  i.e. several hours considering atmospheric 
> activity.  Once applied,  you will find signals will pop out of the 
> noise.    Many hams believe attenuation is used solely to prevent receiver 
> overload.
> Attenuation can be utilized for a more effective means as well.
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Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

2018-08-27 Thread Jim Brown

On 8/27/2018 10:01 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Per one authority on receiver performance, the optimum receiver 
performance occurs when the no signal band noise is about 10 dB above 
the receiver noise floor.


Not quite -- when the noise from the antenna is 10 dB above the receiver 
noise, the combined noise is fractional dB greater than the antenna 
noise alone. As the ratio increases (13 dB from the antenna, for 
example), that fractional dB becomes even smaller.


A common misunderstanding is that 1 dB is the smallest change in 
loudness that average listeners can hear, but the ear is FAR more 
sensitive to differences between signal and noise at low signal to noise 
ratios, so fractional dB improvements can make the difference between no 
copy and just enough to get the rare DX in the log. :)


Another manifestation of this is mixing multiple mics that pick up the 
various parts of a band or orchestra. Anyone who's done much live mixing 
will tell you that when the balance relative to the rest of the band of 
a vocal or instrument is not quite right, the volume slider for the mic 
in question rarely needs to move more than a dB or two. In other words, 
the ear-brain is far more sensitive to differences between sounds than 
to absolute loudness of the combination of the sounds it hears.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

2018-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Many hams equate no signal band noise to receiver sensitivity.  Nothing 
could be further from the truth.  Bob has pointed out some very good 
guidelines.


For those who do not want to play with the RF Gain to simplify things, 
the attenuation and preamp settings will still do a great deal to help.


Listen to a no-signal spot on the band.  Listening to the noise level, 
try attenuation first - if you can still hear the band noise, leave it 
there.
On bands where the receiver seems silent, first turn off attenuation, 
and if you do not hear band noise at a low level, turn on some 
preamplification.


When you can just barely hear the no-signal band noise, signals will 
tend to pop out of the noise.


Just a note - the KX2 and KX3 design point is to always have the preamp 
on for the best front end "out of passband" protection.  SDR receivers 
are different animals and may change our habits with using the receiver 
controls in the future.  Attenuation is still effective.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2018 1:01 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
I agree with Peter in that many hams use too much RX RF Gain and too 
little attenuation.    Per one authority on receiver performance, the 
optimum receiver performance occurs when the no signal band noise is 
about 10 dB above the receiver noise floor. Since we can't adjust the 
receiver noise floor, we can adjust the overall signal coming into the 
receiver by using attenuation and RF gain reduction.  Typically, 160M - 
40M one should expect to run 15 dB to 10 dB attenuation unless you are 
in a super low noise receiving environment.  For higher frequency bands, 
less attenuation and more RF gain is found to be desired.   Still 
maintaining the 10 dB practice regardless of band and antenna and band 
noise.


As example; if your no signal band noise is S-5 or -97 dBm and the 
receiver noise floor is -130 dBm,  thus a difference of 33 dB, then the 
optimum performance will occur with about 15 dB attenuation and 6 to 8 
dB of RF gain reduction.   Or  use 10 dB of attenuation and 12 to 13 dB 
of RF gain reduction.     It will vary from band to band and antenna to 
antenna but will generally be stable across the band for a short period 
of time,  i.e. several hours considering atmospheric activity.  Once 
applied,  you will find signals will pop out of the noise.    Many hams 
believe attenuation is used solely to prevent receiver overload. 
Attenuation can be utilized for a more effective means as well.

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[Elecraft] K2 OPTIONS

2018-08-27 Thread Robert 'RC' Conley
SOLD PENDING FUNDS
Thanks All
73

-- 
The Morse be with youLive Long and Prosper
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Re: [Elecraft] Limited time Labor Day Special - Free Shipping for all domestic S-BOX and Y-BOX orders

2018-08-27 Thread Bob Wilson, N6TV
Sorry the server certificate just expired.  The server owner has been
contacted.

It is safe to proceed to the web site.

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 6:57 PM, WW3S  wrote:

> Hi Bob.just a FYI, in case someone else didn’t mention it, your web
> certificate expired, all sorts of security warnings when I click on the
> link
>
> Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Limited time Labor Day Special - Free Shipping for all domestic S-BOX and Y-BOX orders

2018-08-27 Thread Bob Wilson, N6TV
All S-BOX and Y-BOX orders received by midnight Pacific Time on Labor Day (
2018-09-04 07:00 UTC) will qualify for *free domestic shipping via USPS
Priority Mail*.  Limit:  4 boxes per customer and as many cables as will
fit in the same box.

International orders received by the deadline will qualify for
*discounted* International
USPS shipping (discounted by same dollar amount as equivalent domestic
Priority Mail shipping).

The *S-BOX*  and *S-BOX-USB* are passive *serial port*
splitters that make it easy to connect multiple devices to *any* compatible
transceiver with a serial port.  When connected through the S-BOX, every
device can follow the transceiver frequency, automatically changing bands
and/or retuning.  "Devices" include:

   1. Elecraft KPA500, KPA1500 amplifiers
   2. ACOM 2000A (with new RCU), 600S, and A1200S amplifiers
   3. SPE Expert amplifiers (all models)
   4. Elecraft KAT500 Tuner
   5. SteppIR SDA 100 and SDA 2000 antenna controllers
   6. Elecraft KRC2 band decoder
   7. Array Solutions RatMaster band decoder
   8. Hamation SM-8 ShackMaster band decoder
   9. 4O3A Interface Genius band decoder
   10. RFSpace SDR-IQ receiver

The S-BOX also includes four independent keying circuits to provide CW,
FSK, and PTT to a transceiver via logging software.  A keying circuit can
also be used to remotely power up an Elecraft K3, K3S, KPA500, or KPA1500
using RemoteHams RCForb.

The *Y-BOX*  looks similar, but it is not the same as
the S-BOX.  The main purpose of the Y-BOX is to eliminate a tangle of
15-pin Y-Cable connections when you have multiple devices that all need to
connect to the K3/K3S 15-pin *ACC port*, including:

   1. KAT500 / KPA500 / KPA1500 AUX cable
   2. Top Ten Band Decoder
   3. FSK keying interface
   4. SO2R box
   5. Remote Rig Interface

The Y-BOX can replace the KPAK3AUX cable kit.  Using the Y-BOX instead of
the cable, a K3 macro can power a KPA500 or KPA1500 on or off (this does
not work an unmodified KPAK3AUX cable).  The Y-BOX also provides a very
convenient way to connect the SteppIR Tuning Relay Interrupt option, which
prevents damage to a SteppIR antenna from excessive power while it is
tuning.

For photos, wiring details, and the order link, please visit the web sites
below. Order any time before midnight PT Monday to receive free domestic
USPS Priority Mail shipping:

https://bit.ly/S-BOX

https://bit.ly/Y-BOX

Thanks, and Happy Labor Day!

73,
Bob, N6TV
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Re: [Elecraft] New speaker box for the shack

2018-08-27 Thread Jim Brown

Forgot link to the stadium photo. :)    k9yc.com/ryanVIPc.jpg

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] New speaker box for the shack

2018-08-27 Thread Jim Brown

On 8/27/2018 10:32 AM, Bill wrote:
Suggestions and comments would be most welcome. 


Here's an excellent small 2-way that I often specified for the sound 
systems I designed.


https://www.rcf.it/en_US//products/installed-sound/monitor-series

In case the link gets mangled, it's an RCF MR55, and the link is to Full 
Compass (Madison, WI) where I buy small audio products. It's a 
family-run biz that I competed with 30+ years ago. RCF is an Italian 
company.


https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/129516-rcf-mr-55-mr-55?gclid=CjwKCAjwwo7cBRBwEiwAMEoXPAzNCDsvtZnB0CacFemyRkQfI_sz9AmBMe6ZXkpxNUWFbJDUVb31ZxoCEuQQAvD_BwE

This photo shows a row of them installed in the VIP Suite at 
Northwestern University's Dyche Stadium (very high, white with white 
mounting brackets). These are very accurate, very efficient 
loudspeakers, which means that the K3 can drive them directly.


This stadium is in Evanston, IL, which can get chilly during football 
season, so the VIP suite is fully enclosed. These are NOT paging or "PA" 
speakers -- they are fed A/B stereo from a spaced pair of mics that 
picks up the crowd, so that the VIPs feel that they're part of the 
action. To accomplish the very natural sound of the crowd, these 
speakers had to be very accurate.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" using AFX PITCH mode

2018-08-27 Thread Nr4c
CW REV

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Aug 27, 2018, at 2:25 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Wouldn't taking the headphones off, rotating them 180 degrees and put them 
> back on do the trick?  That way left would be right and right would be left.
> 
> Guess I'm too dense to understand the acoustic phenomenon.
> 
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> 
>> On 8/27/2018 12:36 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
>> A simple DPDT switch should take care of that easily. Unless I don't
>> understand the tech here (hear?).
>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 11:20 AM Dave New, N8SBE  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Wayne,
>>> 
>>> It would really be nice to be able to reverse the sense.
>>> 
>>> That way, as one tunes 'up the band', new signals appearing 'on the
>>> right' (higher in frequency, but not necessarily in audio pitch,
>>> depending on sideband setting) would appear in the right ear, and would
>>> slide to the left based on the tuning speed.
>>> 
>>> In other words, instead of statically mapping low-to-high audio to
>>> left-to-right ears, allow the user to reverse the mapping, so that it
>>> matches the tuning 'sense'.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> -- Dave, N8SBE
>>> 
>>> __
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>>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" using AFX PITCH mode

2018-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Another complicating factor is whether you are listening in CW or CW 
reverse.


I would think that the DPDT switch would be the best solution.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2018 2:47 PM, Peter W2IRT wrote:

Think of it this way. Let's say that your default CW note tone is 500 Hz. When you're zero-beat with someone 
at 500Hz they're "right in the middle" of your ears. Equal signal left and right. A 750 Hz tone 
would appear in your right ear, and a 350 Hz tone in your left. As you move the VFO from where you are, 
tuning "up" the band, that 750 Hz tone would "slide across your head" to the left, and 
when you zero beat it, it's right in the middle. If you keep tuning in that same direction, that same signal 
would start to favor the left ear, and below a pre-set threshold, would appear only in your left ear.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S-meter adjustment

2018-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chris,

The CAL S LO and CAL S HI values are as you observed.

Turn the RF Gain to full clockwise, and remove the antenna.  Turn the 
preamp on.  Adjust CAL S LO first so there are no bargraph LEDs illuminated.
Then tune in an S-9 signal (preamp on or off, your choice), and adjust 
cal S HI for an S-9 indication in the bargraph.  Usually that value will 
be between 23 and 19.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2018 2:13 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:

Thanks to Martin and Don.

Yep, the age setting had mysteriously advanced while in storage.

I had forgotten about the CAL submenu.  Messing with the settings got me
some more reasonable S-meter action. Apparently the S LO should be greater
than S HI in normal operation.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" using AFX PITCH mode

2018-08-27 Thread Peter W2IRT
Think of it this way. Let's say that your default CW note tone is 500 Hz. When 
you're zero-beat with someone at 500Hz they're "right in the middle" of your 
ears. Equal signal left and right. A 750 Hz tone would appear in your right 
ear, and a 350 Hz tone in your left. As you move the VFO from where you are, 
tuning "up" the band, that 750 Hz tone would "slide across your head" to the 
left, and when you zero beat it, it's right in the middle. If you keep tuning 
in that same direction, that same signal would start to favor the left ear, and 
below a pre-set threshold, would appear only in your left ear.

I'd gladly pay to have what the OP is asking for as well. 



 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2018 2:25 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" 
using AFX PITCH mode

Wouldn't taking the headphones off, rotating them 180 degrees and put 
them back on do the trick?  That way left would be right and right would 
be left.

Guess I'm too dense to understand the acoustic phenomenon.

73
Bob, K4TAX



On 8/27/2018 12:36 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
> A simple DPDT switch should take care of that easily. Unless I don't
> understand the tech here (hear?).
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 11:20 AM Dave New, N8SBE  wrote:
>
>> Wayne,
>>
>> It would really be nice to be able to reverse the sense.
>>
>> That way, as one tunes 'up the band', new signals appearing 'on the
>> right' (higher in frequency, but not necessarily in audio pitch,
>> depending on sideband setting) would appear in the right ear, and would
>> slide to the left based on the tuning speed.
>>
>> In other words, instead of statically mapping low-to-high audio to
>> left-to-right ears, allow the user to reverse the mapping, so that it
>> matches the tuning 'sense'.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> -- Dave, N8SBE
>>
>> __
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>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to jimk...@gmail.com
>>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" using AFX PITCH mode

2018-08-27 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Wouldn't taking the headphones off, rotating them 180 degrees and put 
them back on do the trick?  That way left would be right and right would 
be left.


Guess I'm too dense to understand the acoustic phenomenon.

73
Bob, K4TAX



On 8/27/2018 12:36 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:

A simple DPDT switch should take care of that easily. Unless I don't
understand the tech here (hear?).

On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 11:20 AM Dave New, N8SBE  wrote:


Wayne,

It would really be nice to be able to reverse the sense.

That way, as one tunes 'up the band', new signals appearing 'on the
right' (higher in frequency, but not necessarily in audio pitch,
depending on sideband setting) would appear in the right ear, and would
slide to the left based on the tuning speed.

In other words, instead of statically mapping low-to-high audio to
left-to-right ears, allow the user to reverse the mapping, so that it
matches the tuning 'sense'.

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S-meter adjustment

2018-08-27 Thread Chris Kimball
Thanks to Martin and Don.

Yep, the age setting had mysteriously advanced while in storage.  

I had forgotten about the CAL submenu.  Messing with the settings got me
some more reasonable S-meter action. Apparently the S LO should be greater
than S HI in normal operation.

Best wishes,

Chris
NQ8Z





--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" using AFX PITCH mode

2018-08-27 Thread Jim Rhodes
A simple DPDT switch should take care of that easily. Unless I don't
understand the tech here (hear?).

On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 11:20 AM Dave New, N8SBE  wrote:

> Wayne,
>
> It would really be nice to be able to reverse the sense.
>
> That way, as one tunes 'up the band', new signals appearing 'on the
> right' (higher in frequency, but not necessarily in audio pitch,
> depending on sideband setting) would appear in the right ear, and would
> slide to the left based on the tuning speed.
>
> In other words, instead of statically mapping low-to-high audio to
> left-to-right ears, allow the user to reverse the mapping, so that it
> matches the tuning 'sense'.
>
> 73,
>
> -- Dave, N8SBE
>
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>


-- 
Jim K0XU
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[Elecraft] New speaker box for the shack

2018-08-27 Thread Bill
I have decided to get away from the Behringer amplified speakers and 
build a box with a Lanzar subwoofer (6.5 inch - 105 to 12k - 94 db 
sensitivity - 8 Ohm) for HF and several 3" speakers for the assorted 
VHF/scanners etc.. The box will be sealed and I may partition the 
smaller speakers into their own compartment. For the smaller speakers, I 
am looking at the 3" DROK (15W - 108 to 20k - 8 Ohm - 90db sensitivity) 
- although I an not above using something cheaper (due to their planned 
usage).


Nothing fancy for the entire project. The primary speaker will be 
switched between the K3 and another rig, as needed. Both rigs are recent 
and are loaded with EQs etc. If I run into a hiss problem, I should be 
able to eliminate it by using a condenser or two across the inputs to 
knock out offending highs.


The initial reason for the Behringers was to remove offending hiss, 
which they do well. Now, I am looking for a simplier solution - with 
less controls and less wires. Hence, a single speaker box for 
everything. Needless to say, I do have a good shop. My K3 does not have 
a second RX and never will. I rag chew - no DX or contesting.


I have avoided the metal box speakers from the various big names (IKY) - 
too expensive for that they are and I do need matching anything.


Suggestions and comments would be most welcome.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S-meter adjustment

2018-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chris,

On older K2s, there is no adjustment for AGC Threshold kike is found 
with the newer ones which have a pot to set the AGC Threshold. R1 on the 
control board - which is normally adjusted to produce 3.8 volts at CB U2 
pin 5.


You can always set the CAL S LO menu parameter and CAL S HI to produce 
no bars with no signal and an S-9 indication with an S9 signal.  The 
latter is normally set with the preamp turned on, but preamp off can 
also be used.


We are in a sunspot low, so signals may not be as strong right now, 
particularly on the bands above 30 meters.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2018 12:38 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:

Just took out the old K2 from storage and it works great, perhaps better than
my memory of how to us it!

Seems like the S-meter is insensitive.  With the Preamp on the meter works
as expected, but otherwise no indication at all, even for signals with very
good S/N.

Is there an adjustment or parameter change to make the S-meter more
sensitive?

Thanks,

Chris

NQ8Z



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Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

2018-08-27 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
I agree with Peter in that many hams use too much RX RF Gain and too 
little attenuation.    Per one authority on receiver performance, the 
optimum receiver performance occurs when the no signal band noise is 
about 10 dB above the receiver noise floor. Since we can't adjust the 
receiver noise floor, we can adjust the overall signal coming into the 
receiver by using attenuation and RF gain reduction.  Typically, 160M - 
40M one should expect to run 15 dB to 10 dB attenuation unless you are 
in a super low noise receiving environment.  For higher frequency bands, 
less attenuation and more RF gain is found to be desired.   Still 
maintaining the 10 dB practice regardless of band and antenna and band 
noise.


As example; if your no signal band noise is S-5 or -97 dBm and the 
receiver noise floor is -130 dBm,  thus a difference of 33 dB, then the 
optimum performance will occur with about 15 dB attenuation and 6 to 8 
dB of RF gain reduction.   Or  use 10 dB of attenuation and 12 to 13 dB 
of RF gain reduction.     It will vary from band to band and antenna to 
antenna but will generally be stable across the band for a short period 
of time,  i.e. several hours considering atmospheric activity.  Once 
applied,  you will find signals will pop out of the noise.    Many hams 
believe attenuation is used solely to prevent receiver overload. 
Attenuation can be utilized for a more effective means as well.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 8/27/2018 9:55 AM, Peter W2IRT wrote:

I find the best thing for phone contesting is a ton of attenuation and 
judicious use of RF Gain, combined with narrow bandwidth. No way to get rid of 
the low-frequency rumble from within the passband, but the combination of the 
roofing filter, DSP high cut and shift/width will get rid of the high-pitched 
adjacent noise enough to be reasonably efficient. I still don't like SSB 
contests, but they're far more survivable with a loaded K3s than they were with 
previous radios!

-
GO FRC!
Peter, W2IRT

www.facebook.com/W2IRT





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[Elecraft] WTB K2 QRP cover

2018-08-27 Thread Chris
I am looking for a QRP cover for K2.  If you have one available, please
respond off list with price shipped to me in Franklin MA 02038.  No options
needed.

Thanks.

Chris AD1AD
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S-meter adjustment

2018-08-27 Thread Martin Sole
Did you check the S meter calibration in the menu?

It could also be the age setting has moved a bit, I find mine is quite 
sensitive to that.

Martin, HS0ZED 


Sent from my iPhone

> On 27 Aug 2018, at 23:38, Chris Kimball  wrote:
> 
> Just took out the old K2 from storage and it works great, perhaps better than
> my memory of how to us it!
> 
> Seems like the S-meter is insensitive.  With the Preamp on the meter works
> as expected, but otherwise no indication at all, even for signals with very
> good S/N.
> 
> Is there an adjustment or parameter change to make the S-meter more
> sensitive?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris 
> 
> NQ8Z
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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[Elecraft] K2 S-meter adjustment

2018-08-27 Thread Chris Kimball
Just took out the old K2 from storage and it works great, perhaps better than
my memory of how to us it!

Seems like the S-meter is insensitive.  With the Preamp on the meter works
as expected, but otherwise no indication at all, even for signals with very
good S/N.

Is there an adjustment or parameter change to make the S-meter more
sensitive?

Thanks,

Chris 

NQ8Z



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Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: Creating a CW "sound stage" using AFX PITCH mode

2018-08-27 Thread Dave New, N8SBE
Wayne,

It would really be nice to be able to reverse the sense.

That way, as one tunes 'up the band', new signals appearing 'on the
right' (higher in frequency, but not necessarily in audio pitch,
depending on sideband setting) would appear in the right ear, and would
slide to the left based on the tuning speed.

In other words, instead of statically mapping low-to-high audio to
left-to-right ears, allow the user to reverse the mapping, so that it
matches the tuning 'sense'.

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE

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Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

2018-08-27 Thread Peter W2IRT
I find the best thing for phone contesting is a ton of attenuation and 
judicious use of RF Gain, combined with narrow bandwidth. No way to get rid of 
the low-frequency rumble from within the passband, but the combination of the 
roofing filter, DSP high cut and shift/width will get rid of the high-pitched 
adjacent noise enough to be reasonably efficient. I still don't like SSB 
contests, but they're far more survivable with a loaded K3s than they were with 
previous radios!

-
GO FRC!
Peter, W2IRT

www.facebook.com/W2IRT


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Stravinsky via 
Elecraft
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2018 1:35 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Filter Recommendations

I opted for a 2.1 ssb filter hoping to be able to enjoy phone contesting just a 
little bit more but so far I haven't found the magic elixir for phone.I only 
replied to the post after seeing "information garbling" from Don.  That is 
exactly what happens to me with whatever filter or passbandsetting I have tried 
in my K3 during a phone contest.  Btw, that is during major DX contests, I can 
handle the smaller ones but normally don't, hi.

BillK3WJV
   On Sunday, August 26, 2018, 9:53:41 AM EDT, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Lee,

The 2.8kHz filter has a flatter passband and steeper skirts than the 2.7kHz.

But remember that this is a roofing filter, the DSP provides the actual 
filtering for the K3/K3S.
The purpose of the roofing filter is to keep strong adjacent signals 
from overloading the Hardware AGC and the ADC at the input to the DSP 
circuits.  A strong signal that is inside the passband of the roofing 
filter, but outside the passband of the DSP filter (you may not hear 
that signal since it is outside the DSP filter) can cause receiver AGC 
"pumping" and in extreme cases can overload the ADC causing severe 
"information garbling".

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/26/2018 8:45 AM, Lee Murrah via Elecraft wrote:
> I am looking to upgrade my K3S with filters and am using the DX version of 
> the radio as a guide.  What is the advantage of the 2.8 KHz filter over the 
> stock 2.7?  What does the 2.1 KHz filter do for you?
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] PLL reference test failure

2018-08-27 Thread Ilya
Hi Don!

10pf cap seem to have fixed the problem.
Thanks so much for your help!

And also thanks for the information regarding J310s and J309s! Will be
waiting for your testing results!

73!
Ilya, R3XA

2018-08-27 14:33 GMT+03:00 Don Wilhelm :

> Ilya,
>
> I am sorry you are having problems with the PLL Reference Oscillator. Yes,
> there have been several reports of this same failure.
>
> First try a small value capacitor (10 to 15pF) from the source of Q19 to
> ground.
>
> If that does not correct it, can you obtain a J310 FET locally?  If so,
> replace Q19 with it.
>
> The problem seems to be that the J310 FETs in thru-hole format are fast
> disappearing from the market, and the last batch purchased by Elecraft does
> not operate well at the high frequency end of the PLL Reference Oscillator.
> I am currently testing the J309 as a possible replacement.  The testing
> should be completed in the next few days.
>
> One ham with a similar problem wired an SMD J310 on the bottom of the
> board with good results - if you cannot find a thru-hole J310, you might
> consider that solution.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 8/27/2018 4:47 AM, Ilya wrote:
>
>> Hi Gentlemen!
>>
>> I'm in progress of assembling my first K2 #7837 and now I'm stuck with PLL
>> reference oscillator test. Seems that I've already read all previous email
>> threads regarding similar problems all over the internet - and nothing
>> helped.
>>
>> When I just turn on my K2 after some time it's been off - I'm getting the
>> following figures in PLL reference test (TP3):
>> - Band + is 12099.1 khz
>> - Band - is 12086.15 khz
>>
>> After some time (just a minute or so), the BAND+ value starts drifting
>> down. Drifting slows down with time, but in 2-3 minutes I'm getting 12070
>> or smth like that. If I touch RIT/XIT knob - the value drops even lower -
>> to 12055 or about that.
>>
>>


-- 
best regards, from Ilya Semichastnov, R3XA

contact me:

skype# ilyasemichastnov
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] PLL reference test failure

2018-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ilya,

I am sorry you are having problems with the PLL Reference Oscillator. 
Yes, there have been several reports of this same failure.


First try a small value capacitor (10 to 15pF) from the source of Q19 to 
ground.


If that does not correct it, can you obtain a J310 FET locally?  If so, 
replace Q19 with it.


The problem seems to be that the J310 FETs in thru-hole format are fast 
disappearing from the market, and the last batch purchased by Elecraft 
does not operate well at the high frequency end of the PLL Reference 
Oscillator.
I am currently testing the J309 as a possible replacement.  The testing 
should be completed in the next few days.


One ham with a similar problem wired an SMD J310 on the bottom of the 
board with good results - if you cannot find a thru-hole J310, you might 
consider that solution.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2018 4:47 AM, Ilya wrote:

Hi Gentlemen!

I'm in progress of assembling my first K2 #7837 and now I'm stuck with PLL
reference oscillator test. Seems that I've already read all previous email
threads regarding similar problems all over the internet - and nothing
helped.

When I just turn on my K2 after some time it's been off - I'm getting the
following figures in PLL reference test (TP3):
- Band + is 12099.1 khz
- Band - is 12086.15 khz

After some time (just a minute or so), the BAND+ value starts drifting
down. Drifting slows down with time, but in 2-3 minutes I'm getting 12070
or smth like that. If I touch RIT/XIT knob - the value drops even lower -
to 12055 or about that.


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[Elecraft] [K2] PLL reference test failure

2018-08-27 Thread Ilya
Hi Gentlemen!

I'm in progress of assembling my first K2 #7837 and now I'm stuck with PLL
reference oscillator test. Seems that I've already read all previous email
threads regarding similar problems all over the internet - and nothing
helped.

When I just turn on my K2 after some time it's been off - I'm getting the
following figures in PLL reference test (TP3):
- Band + is 12099.1 khz
- Band - is 12086.15 khz

After some time (just a minute or so), the BAND+ value starts drifting
down. Drifting slows down with time, but in 2-3 minutes I'm getting 12070
or smth like that. If I touch RIT/XIT knob - the value drops even lower -
to 12055 or about that.

I repeated the test for may be hundred times already - with fully assembled
case, with/without top/bottom covers, etc.
BAND- value never changes and is absolutely stable.
If I then click BAND- and leave it for a few minutes, then click BAND+
again - drifting start over again from ~12090.
Things only get better (BAND+ gets abt 12104 and keeps stable) when I
connect DMM (voltage) between gnd and D16's cathode.

I've already checked all solderings, RFC14, re-assembled thermistor board,
checked voltages on U5/U6/D16/D17 - everything looks good to me.

Thanks in advance for any ideas...

With regards,
Ilya, R3XA
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