Re: [Elecraft] Heat Sink Compound Question

2022-03-29 Thread Charles K0MV

Hi Tony,

I posted this reply last November.

This topic appeared on the list previously from last October "sticky 
thermal pads for K3 LPA Mosfets".


One of my LPA Mosfets went bad in my K3s.  I saw a comment on the 
reflector about these devices failing and I'm guessing the heat sink 
design is subject to production variation.  I used to design switching 
power supplies.  Reliability is a very strong function of device 
temperature so keeping cool is important.  I hate to take time to fix 
stuff, so try to fix it so it never fails again.  I replaced both of 
them but also improved the thermal design.  As Ray WA6VAB mentioned, I 
got mine from RF Parts.


The epitome of outstanding thermal design is the Intel I7 processor heat 
sinking.  The processor and the heat sink are polished, shiny, and very 
flat.  The best thermal compound is a silver based paste included with 
the heat sink.  It does 100 watts over a couple of square inches so very 
low thermal resistance (remarkable!). Any gaps compromise the performance.


There is a very good tutorial on this here: 
https://forum.digikey.com/t/thermal-interface-materials


I examined the bottom cover and found the surface of the metal to be 
uneven and this inhibits heat transfer (raises the thermal resistance). 
I also found the bottom cover may not be perfectly flat. Moreover, the 
typical flexible thermal pads are not as good as alternatives.


I polished the K3s bottom cover where the heat sink attachments are with 
a Dremel tool and polishing pad and automotive rubbing compound, a fine 
abrasive.  You can see it becomes more shiny and I verified that with a 
microscope.


I got a larger diameter flat washer for placing under the screw head on 
the outside of the K3s.  This places compression over a larger area to 
help heat transfer.  Digikey part number H734-ND.


Since Elecraft has different board revisions you should check that the 
tabs of the MOSFETs can be grounded.  If so, then there is a type of 
thermal pad that is very good.  From the data sheet: High-PERFORMANCE, 
cost effective thermal interface material Used where electrical 
isolation is not required, Tgon TM 800 is ideal for where electrical 
contact and thermal transfer are desired. High thermal conductivity of 5 
W/mK in Z axis and 240 W/mK in the X-Y axis.  This type not only has low 
thermal resistance across it, but also a low thermal resistance in the 
plane of the pad helping to spread the heat out.  Digikey part number 
926-1471-ND manf part number A15037-112.  Use just a very small amount 
of the silver based thermal compound.


I run FT8 so the duty cycle is 50%.  It's been several months and no 
problems (1000s of QSOs)--at least yet!


Good luck and 73,

Chuck K0MV
On 3/29/22 15:24, Tony wrote:

All:

It seems that thermal compounds are not all the same and I was 
wondering which type is best to use for transceiver applications? I 
understand Elecraft uses thermal pads these days, but what type of 
compound was used prior to the switch?


Just purchased a produced called MX-5 from Arctic which is commonly 
used for CPU applications and was wondering if it can be used for HF 
transceivers, kits etc.


See: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T64M68V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1


Thanks,

Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] FW: KPA500 faults

2022-03-05 Thread Charles K0MV

Hi William,

"

surmise it was heating

"

Consider as the surface mount current sensing resistor (assuming it is 
surface mount)


is made to withstand solder reflow it seems unlikely to be heat. I've 
had many surface


mount resistors develop hair line cracks due to vibration and board 
flexing (in breadboards I built).


In failures I've seen due to heat, the resistor visibly changes color 
especially in markings, white to


brown.

As long as you have the unit opened up, perhaps you should take a lupe 
or magnifying glass, bright


flashlight and just look around for other cracks in components or solder 
joints.



I hope I can work you on 40M FT8, I need VP2E.


Good luck

Chuck K0MV


On 3/3/22 08:40, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

Sorry guys, this is not a trivial line voltage problem.

The 60V line to the PA does not sag that much (starts at 72V goes to 60V
under FULL LOAD as measured at the PA)... it's in the voltage divider for
the 60V/32 line or the connectors that carry it to the front panel processor
for digitizing.  Changes with heat load.  This amp is in the Caribbean and
there is plenty of excess heat and corrosion. (nb. I just replaced the
current sensing resistor in my K3S for the 100W module due to a hair-line
crack... surmise it was heating).


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
VP2EHZ

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Naumann, Robert, W5OV
Sent: Thursday, March 3, 2022 9:11 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FW: KPA500 faults


What line voltage are you running it on?  If you're not on 240v, switching
to 240v would be the easiest and most effective improvement.

Doing so yields a 4:1 improvement in line voltage regulation / reduction in
voltage drop.  Double the voltage, at half the current draw.

73,

Bob W5OV

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dr. William J. Schmidt
Sent: Thursday, March 3, 2022 00:39
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 faults

I have a KPA500 that faults on low (60 VDC) voltage.  After measuring the
power supply voltage at the PA module is perfectly fine.  The voltage read
by the processor on the front panel via pin 10 of P1 is lower than it should
be and hence the fault condition.  I suspect there is a voltage divider on
the LPF board that drops the 60 VDC to something that the processor can read
and digitize (in the 0 to 3-5 volt range).  The set of schematics I have do
not show the voltage divider anywhere. does anyone have this part of the
schematics for the KPA500 so that I can adequately troubleshoot this amp and
get it on the air for the contest this weekend?   Multiple notes to Elecraft
have gone unanswered.

  

  


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
VP2EHZ

  

  


email:   <mailto:b...@wjschmidt.com> b...@wjschmidt.com

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] New wattmeter plans?

2022-01-13 Thread Charles K0MV
I came across this very interesting presentation that you may find 
informative:


https://www.hamradioworkbench.com/uploads/1/1/9/9/119903037/k6jey_wattmeter_talk.pdf

73,

Chuck K0MV


On 1/13/22 7:03 PM, jerry wrote:

On 2022-01-13 17:50, Josh Fiden wrote:

Bird is a classic, I keep one on out of my 6m amp. But they’re not
cheap. Comparing cost and features with an LP100A not a hard choice
IMHO.


*** Room for both.  I have a Bird 4410a.  Multiple ranges -
can measure from QRP up to 10kW.  An Ebay deal.  Don't know
how well it's calibrated, and it doesn't do peak power.

  So I just ordered an LP100A.  With the work I've been doing with 
linear amplifiers, I am very interested in accurate power readings.


 - Jerry KF6VB







73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my iPad


On Jan 13, 2022, at 5:19 PM, Bob McGraw  wrote:

Why not just buy a nice clean Bird 43P and a new element or two. 
Not hamfest elements.   That works for me and gives total confidence 
on what I see as power output.   Of course if one desires all 
equipment to match, then so be it.




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Supply

2022-01-03 Thread Charles K0MV

Mine is powered all the time, but the RF deck is not.


On 1/3/22 9:30 AM, Larry Boekeloo wrote:

Do most of you leave your KPA-1500 Power Supply powered up all the time
even with the RF Deck off?

Thanks.

Larry, KN8N
Kalamazoo, Michigan
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem Tuning K3: now off centre fed dipole

2021-11-04 Thread Charles K0MV

Hi David,

Thanks for the synopsis below.  I found it very useful being unfamiliar 
with amateur practice over the years with OCF antennas.  My antennas are 
all center fed.


I replied to this message because it was the most informative. Other, 
later messages on this thread were also interesting.  But generally, the 
discussion lacks quantitative data and so it is difficult to objectively 
evaluate the efficacy and drawbacks of different realizations.  It is 
also difficult to project which realization or changes would fit a given 
set of constraints.


The positive aspect is there has been years and years of experimentation 
and different approaches to this multiband dipole problem.  I would like 
to hear more on these.


Could you describe G3TXQ's 2 core Guanella balun solution more 
completely?  I checked the Spiderbeam website and it is not clear to me.


I think this is relevant to Elecraft since many applications are 
portable and QRP.  We want that antenna to really work and understanding 
it better, helps.


73,

Chuck K0MV


On 11/4/21 9:59 AM, CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Dan

Good question.  I'll answer as a non-expert as best I can.

This is essentially a quest for a multi-band dipole that is easy to make and 
use.  If you can put up mono band dipoles and beams for all your bands, you 
probably will not bother going this route.

The popular description of the ocf dipole (going back at least to the 50's) has 
a feed point of one third/two thirds on the dipole.  (BTW this is otherwise a 
normal half wavelength dipole.

This provides approximately 200 ohm feed point impedance for most popular HF 
bands, eg 80, 40, 20 and 10m, not 15m.

Back in the 60's we could use coax into a valve PA, which I preferred to the 
G5RV which needed an outboard matching unit.  In transistor days we used a 
modest matching unit with an swr meter and were ignorant of common mode current.
  
In the 90s I used ladder line to ground level and an auto-tuning unit into a tent for field day, believing it to be more efficient.   With grounded coax I didn't have live chassis syndrome and out in the wilds there was no noise pickup.  Later I used ladder line through a balun then into the radio with an on-board matching unit and that was, for me a great step forward with auto-tuning.



It was discovered by some users that the common mode current performance using 
off-the-shelf baluns and chokes was inadequate and could result in live chassis 
syndrome and noise pickup on receive from home locations.  Poor matching on 15m 
was still a problem as were the WARC bands.

Now in the 21st Century, just a few years ago, Rick DJ0IP tackled the problem 
starting with a 40m ocf dipole using a new balun/choke combination.  He read 
that W8JI and others recommended a 20% feedpoint to bring 15m into the 200 ohm 
region. He then used a Guanella 2-core balun solution from Steve G3TXQ and 
others to provide the 50 ohm output with low common mode current.  It had to be 
the dual core version, the single core version simply didn't suppress the cmc.  
This is now marketed by Spiderbeam.  Moving to an 80m version was difficult but 
with a hybrid balun/choke combination he devised a combination that provided at 
least as good cmc and this version is also marketed by Spiderbeam. They both 
work on 15m and some WARC bands. For some layouts a modest on-board matching 
unit is required for complete coverage which is a far cry from bulky outboard 
units; good news for portable operation.

I would call these *modern* off centre-fed dipoles, ie well into this century.

I have no financial connection with anyone in that business and I will say that 
I have never seen anyone else produce such a large amount of compelling 
evidence as Rick and I recommend his web site for all things balun and choke 
related to this task.  He takes the practical, non-laboratory approach.  This 
in no way conflicts with any work done by Jim, K9YC and I only wish that he 
would make his own measurements on these modern devices and let go the old 
prejudice.

73 David G3UNA
   
  






On 04 November 2021 at 05:24 Dan Presley  wrote:


Perhaps you could clarify what you meant by a modern OCF. What’s changed from 
the traditional model? Thanks.

Dan Presley 503-701-3871
danpresley@me. com
n7...@arrl.net


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