Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filters

[Jim McCook]

Dave,

Open the K3 Utility and click on Calibration.  Scroll down to Configure 
Crystal Filters.  The top line shows the various bandwidths of the 
installed filters.  You can see the big picture there with the checked 
boxes.

 Jim W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] CM 500 Ear Covers

[Jim McCook]

My solution was to start with a brand new CM500 and use these ear pad 
covers from Amazon:


https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-PChero-Washable-Strechable-Headphones/dp/B09B7JCY8H/ref=sxin_18_ac_d_bv?ac_md=0-0-QnVkZ2V0IFBpY2s%3D-ac_d_bv_bv_bv=amzn1.sym.8f2bf95d-b9c2-4e6d-96a9-5fdf77a1951d%3Aamzn1.sym.8f2bf95d-b9c2-4e6d-96a9-5fdf77a1951d=2QFC77I5SL7OE_ct_cx=headset%2Bcovers=headset%2Bcovers_rd_i=B09B7JCY8H_rd_r=9cdc7ba2-09e2-4d87-9d1c-a415f762970c_rd_w=sgWWk_rd_wg=ju6VR_rd_p=8f2bf95d-b9c2-4e6d-96a9-5fdf77a1951d_rd_r=MAE6C4VXV42BW81V4B20=1683045024=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D=headset%2Bcovers%2Caps%2C145=1-1-270ce31b-afa8-499f-878b-3bb461a9a5a6=1 



One pair goes on the headset and the other pair is used when the first 
pair is removed and washed.  I secure the top with needle and thread so 
it doesn't slip down.  That only takes seconds.  No more ear pad wear.   
Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 BETA FW 2.66

[Jim McCook]

Eric, after seeing your post I upgraded to 2.66 after using 2.62 for 
several QSOs this morning on CW.  Immediately I had problems with 
erratic SWR and failures.  I went to STBY and there were no problems.  I 
changed to several different bands and antennas and the same thing 
happened repeatedly.  No problem with 100w in STBY but constant failures 
in OPER.  After trying over and over again I went back to v. 2.62 and 
all the problems disappeared.  After another few QSOs and no problems, 
my only conclusion can be that 2.66 is flawed.  73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] Keying the K3s

[Jim McCook]

Lee, just try searching with keywords, such as TX GAIN, K3 power spikes, 
TX GAIN Calibration, etc. etc.  The best thing you can do, if you're not 
convinced transmitting at 5 or 50w is a risk, is ask Elecraft.  K6XX, 
who designed the KPA1500, was the first to tell me about this.  Keith, 
who services the K3 and K3s, confirmed it multiple times on this 
reflector.  Ask someone at Elecraft.    73,Jim

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Re: [Elecraft] Keying the K3s

[Jim McCook]

Dave,

You should _never_ key the K3s at 5w (or 50w)!  It can disrupt the TX 
GAIN settings and create huge power spikes, which can be a real problem 
if you use an amplifier.  Just use 6w or 4w or 5.5w, etc.  You can 
confirm this with Elecraft, who will tell you the same thing.   Check 
previous threads; it has been discussed before.  73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 gain jumping on 160

[Jim McCook]

Steve,

A good start would be to redo the K3 TX GAIN CALIBRATION.  Do not use 
the Utility, do it manually.  This problem can occur as a result of 
varying drive from the K3, typically from previously transmitting at 
either 5 or 50 watts.  Using your dummy load, set the K3 PWR to 5w.  In 
CONFIG: TUN PWR set the value to 5 watts. Then hold TUNE on the K3 to 
see a display of 5w.  Tap TUNE. Repeat the procedure at 50w.  Reset 
CONFIG: TUN PWR to any value EXCEPT 5 or 50w.  With the KPA1500 in OPER 
set the PWR control on the K3 to your usual drive level.  Hopefully this 
will fix the problem.   73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Jim McCook]

FYI once again.  You can confirm this with Elecraft support.  Jim

https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg252041.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 fails 5W and 50W TX calibration

[Jim McCook]

Edd:  Using the Utility for this process can have problems.  I did it 
manually on each band.  K6XX also suggested to to it this way.


Connect a dummy load to the K3 output.
Set the PWR control on the K3 to exactly 5w
Set CONFIG: TUN PWR to exactly 5w
Hold TUNE for 2-3 seconds.  Tap it again
Repeat the process at 50w
Reset TUN PWR to other than 5 or 50.  I use 25
Reset PWR in the K3 to the usual 100w setting
Repeat everything above on each band.

Jim W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 reflected power faults

[Jim McCook]

Steve:  I went through this exact problem until K6XX alerted me to the 
likely cause of corrupt  TXGAIN calibration.  This was discussed 
recently and reaffirmed by Elecraft on this reflector.  Most likely the 
problem originates from transmitting with either 5 or 50 watts with the 
K3, which should ALWAYS be avoided.  I suggest you redo the 5 and 50 
watt TX Gain calibration individually on each band as K6XX suggested. 
This should have been emphasized in the K3/K3S manuals.  73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Display Won't Shut Off

[Jim McCook]

Now I see what's going on.  Originally I used the Elecraft cable between 
the K3 ACC and the KPA1500 and everything was OK.  The K3 could be 
powered down normally.  When I moved that K3 to a spare position, that 
cable wasn't long enough, so I ordered an extension VGA cable.  This is 
when the problem occurred.  Apparently the extension is the problem 
withh pin 8. Will see what Elecraft Support says.  73, Jim W6YA

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[Elecraft] K3 Display Won't Shut Off

[Jim McCook]

When I plug the ACC connector cable for the KPA1500 into my newly 
acquired spare K3, the POWER button doesn't shut off the backlight in 
the display or the P3 that's connected to it.  As soon as I remove that 
connector or shut off the PS, it powers down normally.


This doesn't happen with the other K3 using the same cable.  All is normal.

Looking in the archives I saw something about a D10 removal, but 
couldn't find the specific info as to where it is and what the access 
is.  It was described as an early mod, but this K3 is a later version 
#6695.  Any specific ideas where the problem is and how to fix it?


73, Jim W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power reading?

[Jim McCook]

Good points, Ray and Jim,  I should have been more detailed with what I 
posted. I checked The Bird 43 with two other Bird 2500w slugs from 
friends and they were all reading the same with a dummy load at 1500w.  
I did the KPA1500 calibration using the Bird with a high power dummy 
load, then checked again with my antennas in band segments where they 
present no significant reflected power and near 1:1 SWR.  At those 
points they were in sync.  Most of my antennas are flat on CW segments 
at specific spots without using the tuner in the KPA1500.  I operate 99% 
CW and realize that when the load changes from 50 ohms the Bird reads 
wildly high and cannot be trusted.  - Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power reading?

[Jim McCook]

I trust my Bird 43 wattmeter that's in line with the amplifier output, 
so I recalibrated the KPA-1500 wattmeter reading per band to correlate 
more closely with it.  See WMTR ADJUST in the KPA-1500 menu.  Jim W6YA

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Initial High Power Surge

[Jim McCook]

Thanks to K6XX for solving this problem with a huge power output surge 
on certain bands while driving with the K3.  With the proper drive level 
set on a new band the first dit would display a huge surge over 1900w, 
then settle down to normal over 2-3 seconds.  This would happen again if 
the drive from the K3 were readjusted even by 1 watt!  I know several 
others have had this problem.  Bob said the K3 should never transmit at 
or have CONFIG:TUN PWR set to 50w.  I didn't realize this before, since 
that probably caused my problem.


The solution is to redo the TX GAIN calibration.  I think that process 
is too vague in the K3 manual, since I'm a dummy with this stuff.  
Here's what I did with the K3 to solve the problem:


Set CONFIG:PWR SET to PER BAND
Set PWR control to 5w
Set CONFIG:TUN PWR to 5w
Hold TUNE - saw 5w
Repeated all with 50w settings - saw 50w
Immediately reset TUN PWR to 25w
Immediately reset PWR to 100w
Drive power settings for the KPA1500 were retained

I also went to the KPA1500 and adjusted WMTR ADJUST on each band to show 
close to my trusty Bird 43 values.  Again, do NOT transmit at 50w with 
the K3.


73, Jim W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Broken boom mic attachment on a CM-500

[Jim McCook]

I solved the CM-500 pad wear problem by getting some black Geekria cloth 
covers from Amazon.  They fit snugly around the pads.  On the right side 
the top of the cover tended to slide down until I got out a needle and 
thread and tied the edges together on the outside of the headset, just 
under the R.  Now the pads should last a long time.  The covers come as 
two pairs.  I have not replaced the first pair after a couple of years.  
They show no wear at all.   73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 / K3 Mystery

[Jim McCook]

Ben, The process I use is to first clear all the tuner settings on the 
band I'm using.  I go to STBY and hit ATU TUNE.  Low power is applied to 
start the search.  When I first got the amp I did this when in OPER, but 
even with low drive power I kept getting faults due to initially high 
SWR.  Recently during a trace working with Dick he noticed intervals of 
very high drive power... up to 60w, which means the K3 ramps up power 
output at times.  It's complex.  Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 / K3 Mystery

[Jim McCook]

Bruce, I remember that one time I redid all my tuner settings on each 
band and the STBY power was then reduced to the same value as the drive 
power.  I had to set each band back to 100w in STBY.  That solved the 
problem. Check it out.  It's a per-band setting.  73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

Bruce,

You can set the KPA1500 to automatically go to STBY when you change 
bands.  Band Change > STBY:  YES.


Jim
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

Jim, Thanks for the info.  You understand the problem for sure.  Dick is 
being very helpful now, but I'm getting erratic data for him because 
switching between antennas sometimes only results in "NEED TUNE PWR" 
with OK result after a few seconds, and other times I get the fault due 
to initially high SWR and high power output.  I'll probably go with 
switching to STBY before applying RF to the new antenna.  That way the 
instant mismatch won't create a fault due to 1800w output!  BTW I hope 
your house was unaffected by the fire.  I feel badly for Bob.


Dave that ANT1 ANT2 arrangement will not work with my setup for 
other reasons.  Thanks anyhow for the suggestion.


Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

Dave, yes, one coax from the amp to a manual switch.  Your question is 
the same as mine.  Somehow the KPA1500 should know by sensing a rise in 
SWR and shutting down most of the drive power or output somehow so the 
tuner can go through its motions without excessive output or a fault.


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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

I meant to say the tuner settings were made with the KPA1500 in STBY 
with the K3 TUNE PWR set to 40w.  Jim

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

I followed N4ZR’s thread and did not see a solution.I have the same 
problem as Pete.I’ve got two antennas on 3 bands.I’ve put the tuner 
settings in all the bins on those bands for each each antenna.Neither 
antenna has SWR over 2.5:1.I can then step through the bins with RF on 
each of those bands with ONE antenna with no problem.However, the tuner 
settings were made with 40w.


If I am in a contest and decide to quickly change antennas to call 
someone, the tuner doesn’t recognize the antenna change until RF is 
applied.I apply the same drive power ~30w and before the tuner selects 
the new setting, it sees the mismatch and output jumps to over 1700w, 
high SWR is displayed, and a fault occurs.The only way I can avoid this 
is first go to STBY, apply RF and wait for the new tuner setting to be 
sensed and applied, then go back to OPER.  To go back to the original 
antenna I have to do that all over again. I don’t think this is how it’s 
supposed to be, but I think there must be no solution.How can we go from 
one antenna to another without this problem?73, Jim W6YA


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[Elecraft] P3 REF LVL 160m Setting

[Jim McCook]

K3 owners know that the P3 doesn't memorize the REF LVL setting on 160m 
like it does on the other bands, unless the K3 is returned to 160m 
before powering off.  Does anyone know if there was ever a fix for this 
annoying problem?  73, Jim W6YA

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[Elecraft] K4 mail filter for Thunderbird

[Jim McCook]

I have saved URLs to 10 reflectors, but always have opted _OUT of Email_ 
from all of them.  The saved links are to their _archives_ only, viewing 
by thread.  Some, like the Elecraft reflector and all the groups.io 
lists, are continuous.  Other archives for lists like CQ-Contest, RFI 
list, etc. require changing the month in the saved URL when a new month 
appears.  Not a big problem... takes only seconds each month.


This way I just click on the bookmarked URL for the reflector that I'm 
interested in and view the threads.  I probably view 10% or less of all 
the posts on the Elecraft reflector.  I can't imagine actually getting 
Email from all the posts or having to set up filters for new ones that 
appear that I'm not interested in viewing.  It makes these reflectors 
light years easier to manage as compared to getting all those emails!


73, Jim
W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] ERR TXG No Power Output

[Jim McCook]

Problem solved (so far)!  I removed all cables from the K3, opened the 
top and re-seated all the TMP connectors. When removing the cables I 
noticed the screws holding the RS232 connector were  loose and the 
connector was very slightly unseated on the left side.  After putting 
everything back together the K3 was transmitting normally again.  After 
several on/off cycles during the day it seems OK. Thanks for all the 
suggestions.


It was good to hear Eric say all the Elecraft employees are safe!  
Hopefully their homes are, too.


Jim W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] ERR TXG No Power Output

[Jim McCook]

Martin, thanks for the suggestion.  It sounds like a likely source.  It 
was also suggested to be a bad transistor in the LPA.  His was from 
experience, also.  Will first reseat those TMP and other connectors this 
weekend.  I'll try to reach telephone support on Monday before I ship it 
to Elecraft for a lengthy repair time.  I know the fires have affected 
them already.  Very sad.  73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR TXG No Power Output

[Jim McCook]

Pete, the problem occurs with the K-3 connected directly to a dummy load 
or various antennas.   Power is read on K3 and Bird wattmeter.

Mike, I'll try reseating all TMP connectors if there is no magic bullet.
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[Elecraft] ERR TXG No Power Output

[Jim McCook]

I have a spontaneous K3 failure after making no changes. This morning my 
K3 has only 1 or 2w power output when set to 100w or around 32w when the 
KPA1500 is turned on and set to OPER.  It's the same on all bands and 
with a dummy load.  It worked fine last night for several QSOs.  I tried 
a 5w TX GAIN calibration but it failed with erratic, varying low power 
readings.  I loaded a previous Configuration file but that didn't help.  
Whenever I press TUNE I get the ERR TXG message after shutting it off.  
Power in TUNE is set to 50w, but when I hold TUNE the display flickers 
between 2 and 8w.  Any ideas?  Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Spontaneous Failure

[Jim McCook]

Thanks to those who responded with good suggestions.  This morning I 
turned it on and saw a different set of error codes, but there was 
audio.  Powered off and on and saw MAIN freq display, but SUB had 
disappeared.  More power off/on resulted in going back to normal 
operation.  It has been fine for the last hour.  Will try the re 
initialization if it fails again. It may be the pins on front panel as 
some have suggested.  I hesitate to pull off the front panel, but will 
talk to a friend who assembled his K3 about that.  73, Jim W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Spontaneous Failure

[Jim McCook]

Ted, thanks for the note.  I checked the error list immediately after 
the failure and thought about that EPROM failure as a possibility.  The 
power supply is fine.  The radio had been powered up and failed while I 
had dinner.  I know there are some pin connectors to the front panel 
that could be the problem, but I don't want to attempt to pull it off, 
so will probably wind up sending it to the EC hospital for a general 
face lift in addition to the fix unless there is a simple fix.  I doubt 
one exists.  Thanks, Jim

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[Elecraft] K3 Spontaneous Failure

[Jim McCook]

Tonight my K-3 failed after being on for about an hour when I was 
away.It displays ERR EE2.When powered on again the same ERR EE2 is 
displayed.Tapping any button on the radio brings up a different error 
message, such as DS1, FPF LOAD PENDING, BP1, LPF, IO3, IF1, and on and 
on.Firmware reload is not possible. I sent Elecraft a support message 
and will call Monday, assuming I will have to ship it for repair.Has 
anyone seen this type of failure?Jim W6YA


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 PF Keys

[Jim McCook]

The reflector added those asterisks.  Forget them, just use ^FC1 and ^FC5
Jim


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 PF Keys

[Jim McCook]

Jim, I just programmed my PF keys in the KPA1500 for fan speed 0 or 1.

Connect the USB cable to your computer from the KPA1500
Turn on the amp
Open the KPA1500 Utility program
Click on Configuration, then Edit Configuration
Click on the PF Keys tab at top
To set PF1 to fan speed 1 type *^FC1
*To set PF2 to fan speed 5 type *^FC5
*Click OK

Now press/hold PF2.  Fan speed should be 1.  PF2 should ramp up to 5.

The Programming Reference isn't so bad if you scroll down to the 
function you want to change.  It's pretty well spelled out.  This 
particular function, Minimum Fan Speed, was explained on page 24.


73, Jim
W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mike Jack

[Jim McCook]

Dennis, I had the same problem with the line out jack.  Spraying contact 
cleaner on a plug and working it around didn't help; one channel was 
open.  You need to replace the whole board unless you want a huge task.  
Find someone who has upgraded his K-3 to a K-3s.  He will probably have 
the old board to give you.  It's the KIO3 I/O audio module.  Most likely 
someone seeing this message can help.  Jim W6YA

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

Some asked that I post results for the variable power output problem.  I 
now have a pretty good idea why output varies from 1350w to over 1700w 
at a given temperature with a fixed drive level between 7.000 and 
7.050.  The problem occurs only on 40m.  The antenna SWR varies from 1.4 
on 7.000 to 1.3 at 7.050, and 1.1 in the middle around 7.025 or 7.030.


Eventually, using the Utility, I discovered I could get very constant 
output by eliminating all tuner memories, then picking single Xl or Xc 
values _every 10 KHz_.  Values ranged from Xl = 480 at 7.000 to Xc = 121 
at 7.050, with other values in between.  That seems to be a big 
variation.  In any case, the values produced the right results when 
changed _every 10 KHz_.


Percentage change in SWR value over this relatively narrow frequency 
range is high compared to my other antennas.  I assumed memorizing those 
reactance values would solve the problem, but the tuner will only 
remember values within 20 KHz bins.  In other words, it would memorize 
only every other value.  That doesn't help.


On 160 and 80m the bins are 10 KHz wide.  On most other bands they are 
20 KHz wide, and on 10m they are 100 KHz wide.  I think narrow 
bandwidths of 40m antennas is common, so I'm hoping to see a change in 
the tuner's 40m tuner bin width to 10 KHz.


Jim W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

That's not the point at all.  It's about having to ride the drive level 
control on the K-3 constantly, especially in a contest, to avoid sudden 
output of 1700w.




Why worry about it?  No one on the other end would be able to tell one bit
of difference.  I see power drop -- maybe 5 - 10 percent -- as the KPA1500
heats up...likely normal.   The small bit of reflected power may also have
some minor effect on the wattmeter readings you see as well.  73, Greg-N4CC


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

Dummy load is no problem and never has been.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

Eric,

If the attenuator had more attenuation that caused the drive to be 
closer to the K-3 output I would think this would reduce the sensitivity 
of the drive level with respect to change in power output.  6w change in 
drive (from a larger input attenuator) from 80w would result in less 
output change (with the smaller attenuator) than with 6w change from 
30w. Is this right?


Jack,

When I change to the tube amp I use all the same cables and connectors 
for RF.  None of the problem occurs.  I have tried substituting cables.  
I have not substituted the feedline of the 40m antenna, though.


Jim


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

Jack,

Thanks for the idea.  I've not checked power in the drive line from the 
K-3.  However, when running the K-3 barefoot with the amp on or off at 
any power level I see none of these power changes in the K-3 output.


Other than my previous comment about drive levels, I have to wonder if 
it has to do with tuner firmware in the KPA-1500.  If nobody else is 
seeing a similar problem, there must be something before or after the 
amp that creates the problem.


73, Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

Don,

I'm seeing the power changes on the front panel of the amp, on the 
Utility, and on the Bird external to the amplifier.  The Bird 2500w slug 
is about 40 years old, so it probably needs recalibrating.  Still, I can 
see the relative differences at all 3 spots.  There is no fault in the 
amp when it hits the high power level around 1700w.


My attenuator idea was to put it at the input of the transmit section of 
the amp, out of the receive line. in the same place as the built in 
attenuator.  It still seems to me it would help for reasons I mentioned 
before.  With low drive levels the output is most sensitive to 
relatively small changes in drive.  I think the idea of running the K-3 
closer to rated output is still desirable.


Thanks, guys, for all the input.

Jim W6YA
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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

Antenna is 2 el. delta.  Uses 1/4 wave 70 ohm matching section. 
Described in ON4UN's Low Band DXing.  Used for 38 years with various 
tube amplifiers and no tuners.  All coax has been replaced as recently 
as 10 years ago.  SWR measurements always similar.  Power output with 
tube amps does not vary visibly on a Bird WM.  Same situation currently 
with a tube amp substituted.  Feedline from matching section about 50 
ft.  I know how to match antennas.:-) I have seen the usual reactance 
measurement on each side of design frequency of 7.025.  The built in 
tuner is the one I was referencing.  The KPA-1500 comes with one.


Jim
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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Output Variation

[Jim McCook]

I'm using my K-3 with the KPA-1500 and have a problem with extreme 
changes in power output with a given drive level on 40m CW.  This 
happens to a lesser extent on other bands with different antennas.  My 
40m antenna is tuned to 7.025 where SWR is 1.1:1.  On 7.000 it is 1.4:1 
and at 7.050 it's 1.3:1. Within that range of frequencies the output 
_without_ the tuner at a given drive level (30w) varies from 1300w to 
well over 1700w.  Using careful _tuner_ settings it's only slightly 
better.  I have to reduce drive to 24 or 25w to get below 1500w, 
depending on the temperature of the amplifier (power output varies a lot 
with temperature changes).  Higher temp = lower output.


I have tried to compensate in the segments where output is excessive by 
using manual settings via the Utility.  This has helped slightly, but 
still isn't adequate.  I've resisted using ALC because of concern for 
generating distortion.  Having to ride the drive level from the K-3 is a 
PIA, especially during contests.


It seems to me a good answer would be to have higher input attenuation 
so drive requirement would be higher, maybe around 70+ watts.  I'd 
expect changing drive level by the same number of watts (5 or 6) would 
not affect output as much.  I'd also assume the power output would not 
vary nearly so much with a given drive level.


Is this a possible solution?  I've also understood that most 
transmitters (even the K-3) have cleaner output near highest rated output.


Help!

Jim W6YA


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 v. 2.17

[Jim McCook]

I just spent 20 minutes trying to find 2.17 on the Elecraft KPA1500 
Firmware download area.  Only 2.10 and earlier betas are shown as 
available.  I get nowhere with the Utility.  Where is 2.17 hidden?  -Jim

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Re: [Elecraft] K-3 Power Output

[Jim McCook]

Bob and Mike,

Thanks for that tip.  Somehow it got changed.  Not sure how.  That was 
the answer!  Thanks.

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[Elecraft] K-3 Power Output

[Jim McCook]

One of the features I liked with the K-3/KPA-1500 combo was having power 
setting in the K-3 remain at 100w for barefoot or amplifier STBY 
position.  When the KPA-1500 was set to OPER, the power from the K-3 
reverted to the low drive level, such as 32w.  Now it remains at one 
power setting either way.  I can't figure out what caused that change.  
The cable between both units is secure in place and they are 
communicating with each other.  As I tune the K-3 the KPA-1500 tuner 
settings change normally.  Any idea why this changed?  -Jim

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[Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 replacement pads

[Jim McCook]

Today I called Yamaha parts dept. to order pads for my CM500. I was told 
they don't supply any parts for that headset, but if the pads break down 
within warranty they will just replace the entire headset. My son in law 
does part time work for Yamaha, and verified that they work this way 
with almost everything.


I checked other routes, but came up empty.Headphones.com had nothing 
close. The closest I could find were at Scan Sound.com:


http://www.scansound.com/index.php/headset-cushions/leatherette-headset-cushions/teardrop-shaped-leatherette-cushions-for-wireless-headphones.html

They are 80mm wide, so would probably rip while trying to stretch them 
over the 95mm diam. Yamaha.If anyone is successful with these or other 
similar type pads, please post it. It seems our choices are live with 
what we have, use disposable covers, or purchase a new CM500.


It would be nice to know how those covers affect comfort and audio, 
since the ear normally is inside the outer pad, next to the transducer.


73, Jim

W6YA

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Yamaha cm500

[Jim McCook W6YA]

I ask the same question:  Has anyone found a source for Yamaha CM500
replacement pads?  The thin internal part that fits against the transducer
is very fragile and comes apart after a while.  I assume by now someone out
there has replaced those pads.

73, Jim 
W6YA



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[Elecraft] Easy Way to Watch Posts

[Jim McCook]

After seeing some people complain about the burden of sorting through 
the reflector Emails, I can't imagine why anyone would do that.  It's 
much easier to save a URL that goes right to the reflector, opening it 
up with threads.  You can scan through the titles in seconds to see if 
there is anything interesting to you.  Just scroll back to the last read 
message (in black) and move forward up the list.  First you must elect 
to receive NO email messages from the reflector.


http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/index.html

For other reflectors I also just use a URL to the archive, but most 
require a periodic change in the URL to the current month. It takes no 
time at all.  It makes life SO much easier.  Example:


http://lists.contesting.com/archives/html/cq-contest/2012-12/index.html

In a couple of days I'll change the 2012-12 to 2013-01.  That keeps 
things going for January.  Then change it for February, etc.


73, Jim
W6YA
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[Elecraft] N1MM with K-3

[Jim McCook]

On a recent post I discussed the need to use a memory to return to the 
bottom of a CW band without changing the SUB frequency.  While using 
N1MM the best answer seems to be to use a zero in the entry window or 
clicking on band bottom with the bandmap.  However, this changes the CW 
REV to CW (using LSB tuning).  For me this requires a hold of the ALT to 
return to what I think is normal (USB tuning).  I've never understood 
the desire to use LSB tuning, but I guess some folks like that method.  
I'm trying to figure out how to NOT change the CW REV by this method, or 
by changing the K-3 so normal CW mode is USB tuning like I think it 
should be.

Any ideas?

I still hope for an option for a memory to only affect the MAIN receiver 
and NOT THE SUB.  I also wish for the amplifier key line to be disabled 
when PTT is not activated.  This remains a huge flaw with me and with 
all my friends, especially those who use the lockout feature when 
running M/S.

73, Jim
W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM with K-3

[Jim McCook]

Joe, Guy,

Thanks for the answer.  That's what I was looking for in N1MM, but 
missed it.



Guy, there are things that some of us still feel would be an improvement 
for the K-3:

1. No amp keying until PTT is activated
2. Have at least the _option_ to have memories only affect the MAIN, not 
the SUB.

My original search _was_ to find the solution in N1MM.  I just 
overlooked it.

Thanks again,

Jim
W6YA
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[Elecraft] How Can Memory access only VFO A?

[Jim McCook]

In CQWW CW it was common to find a pileup that was a big mess, or the DX 
at the bottom of it was hard to ID for some reason.  Time to move on and 
return later.  The frequency is left on the SUB receiver while tuning 
the MAIN.  Eventually I want to return to the bottom edge of the band 
without spinning the dial, so I need a memory to access only the MAIN 
VFO so as not to lose that other frequency.  This should be possible, 
but I can't figure out how to do it.  Can someone explain how this is 
done like with other radios?

I realize something short can be put into the bandmap for a later 
return, but if it's in a zoomed in mode the return is too cumbersome.  
Not a good option.

73, Jim
W6YA
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[Elecraft] How Can Memory access only VFO A?

[Jim McCook]

Ooops, I forgot to mention that the bandmap is in N1MM.  Anyhow, that's 
not an option.

Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL Handbook special - Limited quantities

[Jim McCook]

Eric,

Next time I order a ARRL handbook, it will be AFTER they finally produce 
it in two separate volumes.  My 5 pound 2010 version is far, far too 
unwieldy to use in most cases.  I speak for many friends who stopped 
ordering because it got too heavy.  I think they are finally getting the 
message, according to the receptionist at ARRL.

73, Jim
W6YA
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[Elecraft] Macro

[Jim McCook]

This is a K-3 macro that I find useful for general DXing.

To start, assume you are calling a DX station that has several other 
callers.You may have used your RIT or XIT or both, in order to get his 
attention on the best frequency.Suddenly he announces that he's 
listening up. You need to split, and fast, in order to be one of the 
first callers.You also must turn off the RIT/XIT, bring both receivers 
to the same frequency, and start tuning the pileup with the sub receiver.

The other situation is that you arrive on frequency when the DX station 
is already listening to a pileup higher in frequency.The drill is 
similar.  In both these situations you must remember to turn off the 
split afterward.

By pushing one button, such as PF1, you initiate a macro that does the 
following:

   1. Clears the RIT and/or XIT
   2. Turns off RIT and XIT in case they were on
   3. AB (all) so both main and sub receiver are identical (if filters
  are identical)
   4. Turn on the sub receiver
   5. Move the main receiver up 2 Khz.

Here is the string:

RC;RT0;XT0;SWT13;SWT13;SB1;UP5;

L mix R is set to A Ab.Now you use the _main_ receiver to tune the 
pileup and transmit to the DX station.You did not use the SPLIT button. 
By avoiding its use you reduce the chance for transmitting on the wrong 
frequency later if you forget to turn it off.You transmit where you are 
listening in the pileup with the main vfo.

To return to normal, simply toggle the sub receiver off with a single 
keystroke.

73, Jim
W6YA


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[Elecraft] Local Noise Problem

[Jim McCook]

There is a very serious problem with the local noise source from low 
voltage lighting systems.  These are sold as pendants, single lights, or 
multiple lights on a support, such as a bar.  The retailer supplies them 
with a choice of two types of transformers, either a regular magnetic 
type (non interfering), or an electronic supply, which is a very noisy 
switching supply.  The latter is most popular because it's small enough 
to be contained within the smallest fixture. 

I have two neighbors _a block away_ who have incorporated these into a 
remodel project.  These are kitchen overhead lights that create 
paralyzing noise, particularly on 40m.  I sent the manufacturer/model 
number (Kovacs) to W1RFI, who plans testing to measure radiation 
intensity.  Retrofit for such lighting is very expensive, mostly because 
of the mechanical changes involved.  One of those neighbors was also 
causing me a problem with his cheap Chinese laptop supply, which I replaced.

On the ARRL website there is a list of letters sent to consumers by FCC 
indicating a need to correct the noise generated by certain devices; 
several are listed for lighting systems, which undoubtedly are about the 
switching power supplies in low voltage systems.  FCC Part 15, Sections 
15.5 and 18.111 prohibit such interference to a licensed radio station.

If you know a neighbor who plans a remodel or someone who is building a 
house nearby, suggest they select the magnetic transformer.  These 
lights are almost always a part of every remodel project.  This is a 
noise source that could seriously affect our hobby when new construction 
begins en masse again.

73, Jim
W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] Local Noise Problem

[Jim McCook]

Jim,

Thanks for those suggestions!  It never occurred to me to decouple the 
transformers from the AC line.  In other words, disconnect the antenna 
from the monster.  I'm told that many of these little switchers have 
toroids or little transformers in them that are pretty effective with 
noise supression, and therefore able to get Type Acceptance.  However, 
when they are manufactured in China or Indonesia, etc., they get 
creative in order to save cost.  They can still claim Type Acceptance.  
Elimination of the toroid winding or small transformer and replacement 
with plain wire is the answer, so now we have a noise generator.  AD6ZJ 
deals directly with some of these devices and explained this to some of 
us this morning.  He also mentioned that the frequency of many of these 
switchers has become progressively higher than before, some being up in 
the 3 MHz region!

I'll check out your site for suggestions.  My preference would be to 
purchase something that the electrician can install, since putting some 
sort of homemade device would probably not be acceptable to the 
electrician or the consumer.  It also is a matter of my own 
responsibility.  I'm open to any suggestions.  You may have the answer 
to the problem!

73, Jim
W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 transmit/amplifier relay

[Jim McCook]

Ralph, VE7XF, took the words right from my own mouth.  This situation is 
unique, extremely annoying, and I have not been able to get used to this 
anomaly after several years.  Using my spare FT-1000D is a big relief in 
that particular area.  I have asked for a solution to this for years, 
but to no avail.

73, Jim
W6YA


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[Elecraft] Fixed Tune

[Jim McCook]

Alan, Dick, Wayne

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for the FIXED TUNE 
option!!

Now I will start using my P3 which previously had become a boat anchor!!

Fixed tune rules!

Jim
W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] Keying K-3 DVR on SSB with N1MM

[Jim McCook]

Thanks, Greg.  Good observation.  Since I only use the K-3, I'm SO2V.  
With or without the A makes no difference.

I'll try putting this problem on the N1MM reflector... maybe someone 
over there knows how to config N1MM properly.  I think that's where the 
problem is.

73, Jim
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[Elecraft] Keying K-3 DVR on SSB with N1MM

[Jim McCook]

Last year N6ML came up with a great scheme for using 4 function keys on 
the keyboard with N1MM to key the KDVR3 on SSB.  I used it afterward in 
the CQWW SSB contest, and it worked flawlessly.  Now, for some reason, 
it won't work in this ARRL SSB DX contest.  The entry in N1MM for those 
keys had been memorized:

*F1 CQ,{CATA1ASC K31;SWT21;}*

*F2 Exch,{CATA1ASC K31;SWT31;}*

*F3 Thanks!,{CATA1ASC K31;SWT35;}*

*F4 {MYCALL},{CATA1ASC K31;SWT39;}*

I can't understand why they won't work now, when they did before.  I can 
punch the M1-M4 buttons on the K-3 and they work fine.  I've tried all 
the settings I can imagine in both N1MM and PTT-key in the K-3.  N1MM 
has so many different ways to configure everything that it's completely 
confusing at all times.  Now I notice another problem. While in SSB 
mode, I change mode to CW and the whole radio locks up.  Another way 
this lock up occurs is going to the config menu.The radio locks up 
and I see this in the display:

AUTO
Keypper

I can't find anything in the manual that mentions this error message.  
The K-3 is completely unusable so I am changing to another radio.

Does anyone have a clue where to go with this mess?  I sure would hate 
to do a complete reset and lose all my settings.

73, Jim
W6YA


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Re: [Elecraft] Noisy K-3 Receiver

[Jim McCook]

Juergen and others.

I'm glad to see this thread get so much attention; it's about time this 
issue was brought into focus.  In spite of my huge appreciation for this 
radio, I find it to be very noisy and fatiguing to listen to, especially 
with weak signals. 

I have, like others, tried all the adjustments mentioned, but with no 
real improvement.  I can switch to my FT-1000D for relief when this gets 
to the point of being difficult.  I find myself doing this more and more 
often.  I used the K-3 in CQWW SSB and CW, and enjoyed the great 
features and ease of use, especially using the N1MM settings to access 
the KDVR audio during the SSB contest.  But... all these great features 
have come at some cost dealing with the receiver noise.  Even the EQ 
settings are a tradeoff because the noise follows boost in the low range 
for CW (I listen at 350hz).  We still need separate EQ settings for SSB, 
too.

I'm also wondering if the DSP board upgrade for low range will help to 
solve some of this problem

The RX MIX audio arrangement in the FT-1000D is still far superior to 
the K-3, also.  The newest options for this helped, but the Yaesu is 
still better in dual receiving mode with the balance control. 

Jim
W6YA



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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 feature

[Jim McCook]

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[Elecraft] New K3 audio mix feature

[Jim McCook]

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[Elecraft] Testing the New K3 audio mix feature

[Jim McCook]

The new audio mix feature for dual receiving is great, but I have a 
suggestion to improve it.  Right now the mix doesn't show any right-left 
perception, apparently due to full mix between channels.  Signals from 
both main and sub appear directly in front, so it's hard to tell which 
channel is which.  It's desirable to have the sub appear a bit to the 
right, and the main a bit to the left.  Then it's easy to ID which 
receiver you're listening to, regardless of the setting of the balance 
control.

The FT-1000D is a good example of how this can be done with partial mix, 
giving a perception of listening to separate channels.  The sub audio 
appears a little to the right, and the main audio appears a bit to the 
left.  That's still far, far better than complete stereo separation in 
my book.  Yaesu apparently used about 25% mix to give this spacial 
perception, acc. to K7JA.  If this feature is installed, it ought to 
capture the last of the FT-1000D holdouts.  The FT-1000D is still a fine 
radio.

73, Jim
W6YA
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