[Elecraft] A K3 Variation of SKN

2008-12-24 Thread Jim W7RY

Here is some info on a New Years Day RTTY activity.




Come one, come all to:

   RTTY WELCOME DAY
   01 JANUARY 2009
ALL DAY LONG

Now is your chance to meet and greet other RTTY operators from all over 
the

world.

No hours, No rules, No score, No pressure, No quota, No log needed.

Any band*, Any contact, Any time, Any power, Any equipment, Any antenna.

Get that antique set-up running or fire-up that brand new rig. Use any 
modem or

computer or combination thereof.

Meet and greet others without time limits. Have a short exchange or a 
rag-chew -

whatever suits you.

Participation is voluntary. No log necessary. No awards - just 
satisfaction.
Help others find joy in RTTY by operating for the first time, or the 
thousandth

time.

Get your set-up running smoothly and help others to reverse inversion. 
Just get

on the air to say howdy -or- hello -or-WELCOME TO RTTY

(*) = Authorized amateur radio sub-bands, of course.

PLEASE HELP SPREAD THE NEWS. TELL YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS.

I'LL SEE YOU ON THE AIR FOR:

  RTTY WELCOME DAY
  01 JANUARY 2009
   ALL DAY LONG

73 - de Phil - N8PS
RTTY Welcome Day Cheerleader

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Re: [Elecraft] Walwart power?

2008-12-23 Thread Jim W7RY
Terry has the right idea!  A 3 terminal regulator PROPERLY buy-passed acts 
as a super filter. There is no need for any additional filtering. The output 
is extremely clean and regulated.


I would stay with a transformer type to cut down on the possibility of 
switching power supply noise.


I would also use a variable regulator and set it for the desired voltage 
i.e. 13.8 volts. A variable regulator uses just 2 resistors for setting the 
voltage. I would also use a little higher voltage wallwart so the regulation 
does not go away. When regulation goes away because of low input voltage, so 
does the filtering effect of the device.


73
Jim W7RY

- Original Message - 
From: John R. Lonigro john...@sbcglobal.net

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Walwart power?



Hey, everyone:
While using a wall-wart directly is probably not a good idea, you might 
want to see what Terry  (WA0ITP) did to solve the problem.  Essentially, 
he epoxied an LM7812 and heatsink to the back of a wall-wart, added a 
couple of capacitors, and checked the output for any ripple.  Finding 
none, he dubbed it the Motel Power Supply and is good to go for QRP 
operation from a motel.  But you can go to his website (below) and read 
for yourself.  He has quite a few good ideas on that website.


http://www.wa0dx.org/wa0itp/mps.html

Happy holidays to all!

73's, John AA0VE
michael taylor wrote:

On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 5:43 PM, Burke Jones tacg...@gmail.com wrote:


Could I use a 12V 500ma to power my KX1 when at home?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power out

2008-12-20 Thread Jim W7RY

Ron
A crowbar circuit is used to disable the power supply in the event of over 
voltage.  The current limit is what would limit the current output of a 
power supply.



A typical crowbar circuit uses a SCR triggered by a voltage sensor. The SCR 
conducts and shorts the output of the supply. Which in turn puts it into 
current limit mode and decreases the output voltage to near zero.


And yes, a 20 amp supply is marginal for a 100 watt HF rig because of the 
examples you have given. The 20 amp Astron can be fudged a little bit by 
increasing the current limit to around 22 amps. The modification involves 
adding a resistor to the current limit circuit of the 723 regulator.



73 and Merry Christmas to all!

Jim W7RY



- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz

To: g...@doctorgary.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 9:40 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Power out



Hello Gary, and congratulations! Opening up the K3 again is not nearly as
traumatic as you might think.

The POWER control will *ask* for more than the rig can deliver. It's 
spec'd
at 100 watts, and that's what is guaranteed. The K3 can make a bit more 
than
100 watts on most bands, but that's all it's spec'd to do. When you set 
the

POWER control for a specific output, it tries to adjust the transmitter
circuits for that output, but can't do it if it's out of their range. 
That's

what is happening to you at 120 watts.

The absolute maximum power will vary by band and to some extent from rig 
to

rig. But since 120 watts is a whole 0.8 dB more than 100 watts, it's not
significant on the air.

You're probably crowding that 20 amp supply at 100 watts on some bands. 
The

efficiency (and so the current required for a given output power) varies
from band to band. I'm running a K3 with a 20 amp supply, but I'm near the
limit on some bands at right on 20 amps for 100 watts out, if the SWR is
quite low. (Higher SWR's reduce the efficiency so the current goes up!)

I don't know whether your supply has a crowbar circuit in it, but my 
Astron
does. It lets me know if I push too hard by simply shutting down. I have 
to
cycle the power supply mains switch to reset it, then turn the K3 on 
again.


Ron AC7AC





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Smith
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 9:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power out

Firstly

Got the K3 assembled. The transverter board was back ordered and so
is the subreceiver so I will be re entering the K3 and adding to it
at least twice over the next few months. I'm not looking forward to
the disassembly  re-assembly but doing the kit sure gave me a great
appreciation for the detail and function this marvelous radio has.
Absolutely amazing.

Kudos Wane  Eric, you surely have an amazing way of looking at
things. Most effective and clear.

With that there are a few questions but in the spirit of one at a
time;

The power supply I have been using in the setup is a Heathkit Power
supply which was made for one of their last Transceivers. It's a HP-
1144 and offers 20 Amps out.

After calibrating the K3 I tried getting 120 watts out to the dummy
load but after the 50 watt calibration, when I held tune down to see
how it read. I only got 102-105W out, not 120, though I set he power
out at 120W. I'm wondering if the Heath power supply is lacking and
that's the reason for the lower maximum output? It seemed to work
well as a backup for the Omni V  corsair.

Idears?

Thanks
Gary
(One year older as of yesterday...)
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Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscope NO MORE LICENCE EXAMS! (please)?

2005-07-22 Thread Jim W7RY

Great info! Thanks!

At least there is something other than License Exams on here!!!



What do licence exams have to do with Elecraft anyway??



73
Jim W7RY



At 09:40 AM 7/22/2005, Don Wines wrote:

All the suggestions in this thread are good.

However, if you are looking for an excellent tutorial on the use of 
O'scopes here are links to Paul Harden, NA5N's, 2 part tutorial The 
Handyman's Guide to Ocilloscopes in .pdf version.


http://www.aoc.nrao.edu/~pharden/hobby/Scope1.pdf

http://www.aoc.nrao.edu/~pharden/hobby/Scope2.pdf

I keep a copy handy at my bench!

Don,
K5DW

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[Elecraft] K2 4914 Status

2005-06-01 Thread Jim W7RY

Well 4914 is well under way!

 I have completed step 1 and all functions checked out 100%.
I have completed the 3 paragraphs of resistors and now moving onto the 
resistor packs. Just about ready to start the construction of the new 
stabilizer circuit board.


72

Jim W7RY
K2 #4914

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4913

2005-05-27 Thread Jim W7RY

I guess that I have better get to building #4914!

It has been a busy month and lots of travel for work! As my friend (and 
co-worker) Chuck Bland (N6DBT) advised me... To take it on the road and 
build in the hotel room. I may just do that!


73
Jim W7RY
K2 4914 not yet started




At 02:22 PM 5/26/2005, Jim Sheldon wrote:

Ken, KG0WX now has his new K2 #4913 on the air -- worked him on 7.040 just a
few minutes ago for his first K2 to K2 contact.  I'm sure he is really
appreciative of all the help the elecrafters gave him in getting it going.
He bought his after seeing mine at a local hamfest, and he commented to me
that he still can't believe what the receiver can hear, even on a dead band
as 40 is right now.

Jim - W0EB
K2 #4338

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Re: [Elecraft] Tonight Show

2005-05-14 Thread Jim W7RY
The sender was Chip Margelli K7JA. He works for Yaesu. As I remember he is 
head of their service Department.
Another reflector mentioned who the other fellow was. I don't remember his 
call. Apparently the props director for the show is also a ham.


It was fun to concentrate on the sending and copy exactly what Chip was 
sending.


Being from the NW, it was also fun to watch the fish throwing! It's better 
to watch them throw them at the Pike St. Market in person though..

73
Jim W7RY


 11:20 AM 5/14/2005, Tom Skinner wrote:

BRILLANT


I particularly liked the sender blowing the smoke off his fingers.

Thanks for a real hoot.

Tom, W3QS
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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-13 Thread Jim W7RY
Wow... This chap has quite a setup! And he's very talented! Take a look at 
some of those construction projects!


Very nice indeed!
73
Jim W7RY


At 01:21 PM 5/13/2005, Stephen W. Kercel wrote:

Stuart

It was a year or two back that I saw them. It may well be the case that 
they are discontinued. They were way out of the price range of the typical ham.


However, these Web pages still work.

http://www.hewezi.com/bal_tuner.html

http://www.dj2hz.de/

If you're really curious, get in touch with DJ2HZ

73,

Steve
AA4AK

At 01:59 PM 5/13/2005 -0500, you wrote:

My understanding, from L. B. Cebik, was the German balanced tuners were
discontinued.  I could not find them by Google search.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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RE: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-13 Thread Jim W7RY
There is a fellow here in the NW that builds link coupled tuners. Pat 
Buller, W7RQT.


They are quite well made and look great. His email is shown on www.qrz.com


73
Jim W7RY


ConAt 09:30 AM 5/13/2005, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 ...
 Contrary to popular belief, balun loss is not the largest
 contributing factor, and if properly designed, makes
 little difference whether it is placed on the input or the
 output.  Charles Green W1CG has done a lot of work
 on balun loss and reports that the loss is actually
 quite low (even when their design impedance is
 severly mismatched).

 My bottom line conclusion here is that we pay a price
 in efficiency for the convenience of compactness and
 a large matching range.

Yes, we most certainly do. Too many of us care only about the automatic 
aspect of these compact tuners, and we give up really efficient tuner 
operation. Tuners have to be really large to be really good. The 
components have to be large and the enclosures have to be large. But 
because many people don't like large boxes on their operating tables, and 
because they would rather not twiddle knobs, they go to these small, 
sometimes lossy autotuners. As long as they understand what they are 
giving up by doing this, it's cool.


However, balun loss isn't the only important factor and may not even be 
the most important factor. The balun's primary purpose is to convert to a 
balanced two-wire system, and in order to preserve the antenna pattern and 
keep the feedline from radiating, it has to provide equal currents in each 
leg of the feedline. In order to be effective at this, the balun's 
impedance has to be large compared to the antenna's input impedance. When 
baluns in tuners have to look into very high impedances, they stop acting 
as baluns. You may be happy that a particular balun doesn't have a lot of 
loss, but you would be very unhappy to learn that that same balun isn't 
doing it's job as a balun anymore. Under these conditions, who knows what 
the antenna pattern is.


Using a balanced tuner gets you part of the way to a highly efficient 
antenna system; the other half of the journey is to use a balun-less 
design that attains true balance no matter what the antenna/feedline 
conditions are. I have found this possible only by homebrewing such a tuner.


I don't know if you've ever seen the Annecke tuner on L. B. Cebik's web 
site:  http://www.cebik.com/link/link.html . It was the best hope we've 
had to seeing a link-coupled tuner like the old Johnson Matchbox, and many 
folks were expecting it to go back into production, but the person who 
bought the rights to the design has decided not to pursue the manufacture 
of the tuner at this time. Too bad. We'll just have to keep building them 
ourselves.


Al  W6LX








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Re: [Elecraft] Off topic: beginner kit recommendations?

2005-05-11 Thread Jim W7RY
They just look like a re-seller of Ramsey 
kits:  http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/


73
Jim W7RY



RamAt 12:42 PM 5/11/2005, David Toepfer wrote:

NOTE: they have an amateur radio kist section too
(http://www.hobbytron.com/amateur_index.html)

dt
.

--- David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hobbytron has a lot of simpler kits to choose from
 (http://www.hobbytron.com/electronickits.html), including a soldering
 starter
 kit (http://www.hobbytron.com/solder_kit.html).

 dt
 .

 --- Mike Markowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  My 11 year old son KB3KYB has been fascinated by my recent K2 kit
  building.  He has never soldered but is excited about the idea of
  building a radio of his own.  With his birthday coming up this would be
  the perfect chance to get him a small kit that we could build together.
 
  I thought a shortwave receiver with a few bands would be best since it's
  simpler  cheaper.  Though I'm also considering a cake tin special,
  getting the parts to homebrew one of the old tube beginner rigs built on
  an upside down cake pan.  Any ideas would be very welcome.  Thanks!
 
  Mike  AB3AP
  Avondale, PA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/Writelog computer interface

2005-05-11 Thread Jim W7RY

Not true...

I run Writelog with MMTTY which is a RTTY plug in with rig control and it 
works just fine on an 800 MHz CPU.


I also have used it running CW transmit, CW decode (with the sound card), 
packet screen, rig control, (FT-1000MP) and rotor control with NO PROBLEMS.
I use a home brew optoisolator interface for PTT, FSK keying for RTTY, and 
CW Keying output. These are all hooked to the COM-1. I use a an after 
market 4 port card (Equinox) for my other 4 serial ports.


BTW the K2 is fully supported in Writelog. Just select it as you would your 
Ken-Icom-Yae.


Always works fine. I've won many a RTTY contest with it.

73
Jim W7RY




At 12:46 PM 5/11/2005, Jack Brindle wrote:

Guys, Jim is correct. A PC running windows and most contest/ham
programs will key the K2 (or any other CW-capable rig) very nicely. But
only if the computer is fast enough to handle all its tasks AND the CW
functions as well. Don't expect an old slow Pentium 3 system to handle
it very well. I use a 1.7 GHz Celeron running N1MM logger with great
success (except for RFI problems...). If you are trying to do this with
a 350 MHz P3 system, then it is definitely time to trade up.

At the same time, it is good to bug the software authors to add support
for the K2's KY command. This command is also supported in newer
Kenwood transceivers, so adding it for us also gets a lot of other
rigs.


On May 11, 2005, at 12:30 PM, Dan Barker wrote:


That's silly! Modern computers are WAY more capable than that.
Someone
in charge of one of these keying programs needs to look into the
Win-32 API
for starting threads with differing priorities. I'm not one of those
programmers, but I KNOW you can make the opsys dispatch you often
enough, if
you promise to be good (ie, not loopg).

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
... Windows NT based OS (NT/2000/XP), the cw timing problem is an
artifact
of Windows.
/snip


- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/Writelog interface

2005-05-11 Thread Jim W7RY
Why would you need to do that?  Just make up a simple transistor switch 
from one of the comm ports and hook it to the CW key input jack of the K2.
Writelog will work just fine running the K2 in break in mode.. Or even full 
break in mode. Drive a reed relay with the comm port if you need lower 
resistance to key the K2. They are $3.98 at Radio Shack.


Unless I have missed a turn in the road here.

73
Jim W7RY





At 03:44 PM 5/11/2005, Andy Bullington wrote:
Thanks to everyone who spoke on this topic. I really appreciate the help. 
Looks like I'll either have to break down and build the SSB module for the 
PTT or the WinKey looks like an interesting alternative with lots of 
flexibility. Much to mull over! Thanks everyone.

   Andy W1AWB

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Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered my second K2

2005-05-11 Thread Jim W7RY

Well my new K2 just arrived. Serial number 4914.

It's off to the work shop to assemble the XG-1 and the N-Gen first! Then 
onto the K2!



72/73
Jim W7RY
K2 S/N 4914



At 10:41 PM 5/8/2005, Jim W7RY wrote:
Well I just placed my order for my 2nd K2. I sold my 1st one several years 
ago.



I'm looking forward to building my second K2!

73
Jim W7RY

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[Elecraft] Just ordered my second K2

2005-05-08 Thread Jim W7RY
Well I just placed my order for my 2nd K2. I sold my 1st one several years 
ago.



I'm looking forward to building my second K2!

73
Jim W7RY

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