Re: [Elecraft] CW Mistakes

2008-04-25 Thread WA7CS

Practice a bit with a partner, or a recording device.

It is very important to get the spacing between elements, letters, and words
correct.

A bad fist will not attract as many QSOs as a good one.

Sloppy sending, or a fist with too much swing is a genuine pain to copy.

A good fist is a thing of beauty that everyone will appreciate.

Carl
WA7CS

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Re: [Elecraft] K1

2008-02-19 Thread WA7CS

Nope - Don't worry about the toroids.
The K1 manual is excellent - has drawings and very clear explanations.

I actually think winding toroid is fun!  I don't get what all the hllabaloo
is about.

As far as tinning the leads - the way I do it is use an exacto knife to
scrape off the insulation.  I find it to be easier and more positive than
the hot-solder method.  In order for the solder method to work, the iron
must be hot - hotter than I choose for actual soldering.

If I can do it anyone can.  20-600 vision, thick bifocals, and colorblind to
boot.

Have fun!

Carl
WA7CS


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Tilt Stand Bolt Size

2008-01-11 Thread WA7CS

Thanks to the list, I've found just the right thumbscrew.

Here is a link to the details:

http://webpages.charter.net/crstrode/k1nuts.htm

http://www.nabble.com/file/p14766469/k1nuts1.jpg 
http://www.nabble.com/file/p14766469/k1nuts2.jpg 
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[Elecraft] BL1 vs. BL2 balun

2008-01-09 Thread WA7CS

Aside from the switch to change from a 1:1 to 4:1, what are the differences
between the BL1 and BL2?

I've never seen either, however it appears to me that the BL2 has two
binocular cores, and the BL1 has a single core.  Is this so?

By the way - does anyone know the specs on the binocular core?

I'm guessing it is a mix 43.

Carl
WA7CS
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL RTTY Roundup

2008-01-07 Thread WA7CS

After a week of building a new K1, I was anxious to try it out and get on the
air.

Imagine my dismay when all I could hear was a racous cacaphony of RTTY
splatter from 7.025 to 7.100.  Similarly 14.060 was also RTTY hell.

I was even pushed off of 10.130 (WARC) by an incessant RTTY CQ TEST.

I wonder what drives the ritty boys to swamp the traditional CW bands and
wipe out the QRP calling freqs - oh yes, now I remember, the ARRL has deemed
CW as non-relevant.

Renewal of my ARRL membership is becoming less and less attractive.

WA7CS
ARRL member since 1970
ARRL EWA HF Awards Manager

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Re: [Elecraft] 2SC2166 Driver replacement?

2008-01-05 Thread WA7CS

 My new K1 seems to have a replacement final as well.  I'm going to make a
leap of faith and solder in the undocumented 2SC5739 in place of the
specified 2SC2166.

Carl
WA7CS

PS:  K1 serial Number 2476 is alive and listening - Transmitter installation
underway!



Don Wilhelm wrote:
 
 
 Put the 2SC5739 in the Q6 position - it will be just fine.
 Sorry about the lack of an update for the Errata sheet (we can probably 
 blame it on the K3 preparation and resulting overtime at Elecraft).  If 
 I can guess a bit, the change was part of the switch to RoHS compliant 
 devices, but that is only a guess.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Matt Palmer wrote:
 Again I invoke the elecraft gods, i dont have a 2sc2166, mine is a
 2sc5739, checking the data sheets these are the same except they have
 lower voltage, current and power dissapation rating, is this a
 documented replacement? I would have expected it to show up in errata
 somewhere... Just want to make sure its still ok before i tag it down.
 
 

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[Elecraft] K1 # 2476 alive and well

2008-01-05 Thread WA7CS

K1 #2476 just completed it's first QSO.  Received a 569 on 20 meters from 
WA6UIJ's long wire antenna 10 feet off the ground.  Not bad for QRP from a
ground mounted vertical.

Yee haw!
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[Elecraft] K1 S-meter / AGC problems

2008-01-04 Thread WA7CS

I'm knee - deep into building a K1

Last night - right before my mandatory bedtime I performed the receiver
alignment and tests.  

Everything worked A-OK, with the exception of the S-Meter and AGC.

There appears to be no S-meter response, and the AGC does not seem to be
working.

With the K1 and my K2 connected to the same antenna a S-6 on the air signal
(as indicated by the K2 S-meter) provides no response on the K1 S-Meter.  I
also cranked up the K-2 power to 100 watts to the antenna and monitored the
signal with a hank of wire attached to the K1 antenna jack - REALLY loud
signal, but still no S-meter response.

The K1 S-meter consistently shows one bar regardless of input signal
strength.

The S-meter bar graph test pattern (i.e. brief display of all the bars)
functions when DISPLAY is pressed.

I checked the S-meter zero and full-scale settings.  If the S-meter zero
settings is adjusted with the SIG function, the S-meter bars increase and
decrease as described on page 53 of the manual, however there is still no
response to input signals.  Adjusting the full scale setting similarly does
not change response to input signals levels.

Due to my assigned bedtime, I was unable to perform the voltage checks at
U1, U2,Q1, Q2, D2 in the troubleshooting table.  Now, I'm at my desk at
work, unable to concentrate on my livelihood.

Please offer some suggestions so I can keep my day job!

Carl
WA7CS
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[Elecraft] K1 crystal grounding

2008-01-03 Thread WA7CS

I'm currently building the K1.

When I built a K2 a few yers ago, there was an errata sheet or a builder
alert, etc. advising that crystal grounding should be done near the bottom
of the crystal can as opposed to the top of the can.

I can't seem to find similar advice for the K1.

I've already installed all of the crystals with the ground wire soldered to
the top of the cans.  I'm considering going back and tacking the ground wire
to the sides/bottom of the crystal cans.

Also, in the K2, I seem to recall that all of the crystals were grounded
together with a wire along the top - no similar instruction for the K1.

Should I do this, or is any potential benefit not worth the effort/risk?

Carl

WA7CS
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