Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Frank R. Oppedijk
 My K3, on receive, with the KAT500 in-line, the P3, and my massive 70A Astron 
 p.s. powering the K3, drew about 20A DC.  Putting the K3 in transmit mode, 
 with just under 12W drive (so as not to kick in the 100w amp) required about 
 30A DC.  Boosting the output to 50W drew about 70A DC.  Running it wide 
 open, at 100W out, required about 80A DC.  And finally, turning on the 
 KPA-500, with 15W drive to yield 300W out, required 150A DC.

I haven't made any measurements myself, but I do believe there must be some 
error in your numbers. If RX draws 20A and TX at 100W draws 80A, that means 60A 
x 12V = 720W input power to create 100W RF output. The other 620W must be 
dissipated into heat, which, I guess, would melt the K3 over time :) There 
clearly must be an error somewhere. 

Also, 20A on RX seems way too high for me. The K3 by itself draws 2A on RX, 
IIRC. Add an extra 1A for the P3 and the KAT500 maybe, and we're still missing 
17A.

Was your measurement device faulty, or do you have an error in your maths?

73 de Frank PA4N

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Paul (N1HEL)
Hmmm.  Thanks for the comments. It may be that the amperage indicator on my 
new main line surge protector is faulty.  I will try again, this time using 
a Kill-A-Watt power consumption meter on my various power strips and adding 
up the readings of power drawn.  More news as it happens...

 -Paul, N1HEL
_

- Original Message - 
From: Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 2:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Paul, I have been wondering where you got your information.  It now sounds like 
you have been using peak currents that are designed to prove to you that you 
need the surge protector equipment rather than any kind of metering to predict 
battery life or any other type of average current or electric meter charges.  
Such surges are common with power supplies with large capacitance that are 
turned off then on and the capacitors charge.  These have to do only with the 
internal resistance in the power supply and the resistance of the electrical 
lines and nothing to do with your battery requirements.  Your battery capacity, 
I would estimate to be the receive current x the required operation time x the 
average power x 2 x transmit duty.  Receive current should be about 0.5 amps 
for the K2, 1.0 for the K3 with one receiver and 2.0 with two receivers.  The 
average power should be about 0.3 X peak power for CW and a bit less for SB.  
The duty cycle should be
 about 0.7 for a contest station calling CQ down to almost nothing for a 
station mostly listening to a net.  The efficiency for a battery would be best 
predicted by manufacturer's data, but should be high for a reasonable sized 
battery.  A 60 amp-hour battery is fairly small.  My station battery is rated 
at 122 amp hours.  A contest station calling CQ for 48 hours with a K3 using 
two receivers and transmitting at 100 watts should require a battery capable of 
48 hours x 2 amps +48 X (100 watts/12v) x 0.7 x 0.3 = 180 amp hours or two 
fully charged batteries.  Of course, you would want a big amplifier, a 
computer, some lights and a refrigerator for food and drink, so the K3 will be 
the least of your worry.  If you use an ice chest and an LED light and hunt and 
pounce a single well charged battery should handle a CQ WW unless you want a 
rotary beam or an amp.  You will note that you can cut your battery requirement 
in half with only one receiver in
 your K3.  This estimate makes a lot of reasonable assumptions, so it would 
require some empirical data to be very accurate, but it shows that operating on 
a weekend camping trip is very reasonable because you are unlikely to call CQ 
all night, particularly if your XYL is along to dictate some of your activity.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Paul (N1HEL) n1helra...@gmail.com
To: Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2014 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid
 

Hmmm.  Thanks for the comments. It may be that the amperage indicator on my new 
main line surge protector is faulty.  I will try again, this time using a 
Kill-A-Watt power consumption meter on my various power strips and adding up 
the readings of power drawn.  More news as it happens...
-Paul, N1HEL
_

- Original Message - From: Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 2:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Paul Grigorieff
OK, here are some new readings, taken with a Kill-A-Watt power consumption
meter.  The readings in transmit mode were taken by keying down in CW for a
few seconds and waiting until the meter reading stabilized.

I have an Astron 70A power supply powering a Rigrunner that then supplies a
K3, a KAT500, and a PigKnob.  The P3 is plugged into the K3.  There is a
set of speakers, which draw .06A AC as well.

K3 in RCV mode   .92A AC, or 84W   6 DC  at  14v
K3 in XMIT, 15W out  2.7A AC, or 240W17A DC
K3 in XMIT, 50W out  3.7A AC, or 342W24A DC
K3 in XMIT, 100W out4.7A AC, or 438W31A DC

How do these look to everyone?  I'd like to get them close to right so that
I can calculate my battery needs for emergency operation.

Something else I don't understand is the ammeter on the front of the
Astron.  When the K3 is turned on,  the Astron's meter jumps up about 1A
DC.  When the K3 is transmitting at 15W, the Astron's meter reads about 7A
DC.  At 50W transmitted power, it reads 11A DC. And at 100W out, it reads
15A DC.  Quite a difference from the measured and computed DC amps listed
above.  What is going on here?  Simply an innaccurate Astron meter?

Thanks,
   -Paul, N1HEL




On Wed, Mar 5, 2014 at 2:06 AM, Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl wrote:

  My K3, on receive, with the KAT500 in-line, the P3, and my massive 70A
 Astron p.s. powering the K3, drew about 20A DC.  Putting the K3 in transmit
 mode, with just under 12W drive (so as not to kick in the 100w amp)
 required about 30A DC.  Boosting the output to 50W drew about 70A DC.
  Running it wide open, at 100W out, required about 80A DC.  And finally,
 turning on the KPA-500, with 15W drive to yield 300W out, required 150A DC.

 I haven't made any measurements myself, but I do believe there must be
 some error in your numbers. If RX draws 20A and TX at 100W draws 80A, that
 means 60A x 12V = 720W input power to create 100W RF output. The other 620W
 must be dissipated into heat, which, I guess, would melt the K3 over time
 :) There clearly must be an error somewhere.

 Also, 20A on RX seems way too high for me. The K3 by itself draws 2A on
 RX, IIRC. Add an extra 1A for the P3 and the KAT500 maybe, and we're still
 missing 17A.

 Was your measurement device faulty, or do you have an error in your maths?

 73 de Frank PA4N

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-- 
Paul
N1HEL
Half Moon Bay, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread dmoes
The current readings on the Killowat are showing AC into the power supply. 
losses in the Astron there and with additional  loads it will be drawing more 
power than the K3 alone. The other question is the Killowatt reading peak 
currents or RMS.In a perfect world with a 100 percent efficient power 
supply connected to a K3 drawing 15A at 13.8V. The power supply will draw 
1.7A. At 120 V ac.But even the best power supplies especially analogue  are 
far from 100 percent efficient.  So your readings are reasonable   onto that, 
and I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, the K3 will draw somewhat 
more than 15A. Key down at 100W  so the am meter on the Astron may be reading a 
little low. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Paul Grigorieff n1helra...@gmail.com
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2014 12:16:23 
To: Frank R. Oppedijkfr...@qrd.nl
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

OK, here are some new readings, taken with a Kill-A-Watt power consumption
meter.  The readings in transmit mode were taken by keying down in CW for a
few seconds and waiting until the meter reading stabilized.

I have an Astron 70A power supply powering a Rigrunner that then supplies a
K3, a KAT500, and a PigKnob.  The P3 is plugged into the K3.  There is a
set of speakers, which draw .06A AC as well.

K3 in RCV mode   .92A AC, or 84W   6 DC  at  14v
K3 in XMIT, 15W out  2.7A AC, or 240W17A DC
K3 in XMIT, 50W out  3.7A AC, or 342W24A DC
K3 in XMIT, 100W out4.7A AC, or 438W31A DC

How do these look to everyone?  I'd like to get them close to right so that
I can calculate my battery needs for emergency operation.

Something else I don't understand is the ammeter on the front of the
Astron.  When the K3 is turned on,  the Astron's meter jumps up about 1A
DC.  When the K3 is transmitting at 15W, the Astron's meter reads about 7A
DC.  At 50W transmitted power, it reads 11A DC. And at 100W out, it reads
15A DC.  Quite a difference from the measured and computed DC amps listed
above.  What is going on here?  Simply an innaccurate Astron meter?

Thanks,
   -Paul, N1HEL




On Wed, Mar 5, 2014 at 2:06 AM, Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl wrote:

  My K3, on receive, with the KAT500 in-line, the P3, and my massive 70A
 Astron p.s. powering the K3, drew about 20A DC.  Putting the K3 in transmit
 mode, with just under 12W drive (so as not to kick in the 100w amp)
 required about 30A DC.  Boosting the output to 50W drew about 70A DC.
  Running it wide open, at 100W out, required about 80A DC.  And finally,
 turning on the KPA-500, with 15W drive to yield 300W out, required 150A DC.

 I haven't made any measurements myself, but I do believe there must be
 some error in your numbers. If RX draws 20A and TX at 100W draws 80A, that
 means 60A x 12V = 720W input power to create 100W RF output. The other 620W
 must be dissipated into heat, which, I guess, would melt the K3 over time
 :) There clearly must be an error somewhere.

 Also, 20A on RX seems way too high for me. The K3 by itself draws 2A on
 RX, IIRC. Add an extra 1A for the P3 and the KAT500 maybe, and we're still
 missing 17A.

 Was your measurement device faulty, or do you have an error in your maths?

 73 de Frank PA4N

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-- 
Paul
N1HEL
Half Moon Bay, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Bill Frantz
I think measurements using this protocol will include the losses 
in the Mains Voltage to 12 Volt power supply. If you are running 
off batteries, then you have 12 volts already and don't suffer 
any conversion losses.


Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

On 3/5/14 at 6:43 AM, n1helra...@gmail.com (Paul (N1HEL)) wrote:

Hmmm.  Thanks for the comments. It may be that the amperage 
indicator on my new main line surge protector is faulty.  I 
will try again, this time using a Kill-A-Watt power consumption 
meter on my various power strips and adding up the readings of 
power drawn.  More news as it happens...

---
Bill Frantz|Security, like correctness, is| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  |not an add-on feature. - Attr-| 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |ibuted to Andrew Tanenbaum| Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Steve Baum
There are so many things to consider when you try to calculate battery
requirements for emergency operation, is it really possible to accurately
predict how long a given battery will last? Here are a few of the variables
I'm aware of -

- battery type  amp/hour rating
- starting charge state of battery
- age  condition of battery
- environmental conditions - temperature
- loads other than K3 on battery, and whether constant or intermittant
- mode(s) of transmission, i.e., PSK, CW, SSB
- transmit power used for each mode
- percentage of time for each mode vs. receive time
- total operating time desired

For me, a subjective approach makes the most sense. I would make some rough
calculations but really pay attention to suggestions of those who have real
world experience. One or two of deep cycle golf cart batteries would
probably be all I ever would need. Then remember to keep them charged!

Oh, and don't assume you need 100W to make contacts! :)

Steve
AA6VO
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

It looks like you are ignoring the fact that your power supply is less 
than 100% efficient.

Power into the supply does not equal power out of it.

The readings from your Astron current meter are more realistic for the 
DC Current requirement.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/5/2014 3:16 PM, Paul Grigorieff wrote:

OK, here are some new readings, taken with a Kill-A-Watt power consumption
meter.  The readings in transmit mode were taken by keying down in CW for a
few seconds and waiting until the meter reading stabilized.

I have an Astron 70A power supply powering a Rigrunner that then supplies a
K3, a KAT500, and a PigKnob.  The P3 is plugged into the K3.  There is a
set of speakers, which draw .06A AC as well.

K3 in RCV mode   .92A AC, or 84W   6 DC  at  14v
K3 in XMIT, 15W out  2.7A AC, or 240W17A DC
K3 in XMIT, 50W out  3.7A AC, or 342W24A DC
K3 in XMIT, 100W out4.7A AC, or 438W31A DC

How do these look to everyone?  I'd like to get them close to right so that
I can calculate my battery needs for emergency operation.

Something else I don't understand is the ammeter on the front of the
Astron.  When the K3 is turned on,  the Astron's meter jumps up about 1A
DC.  When the K3 is transmitting at 15W, the Astron's meter reads about 7A
DC.  At 50W transmitted power, it reads 11A DC. And at 100W out, it reads
15A DC.  Quite a difference from the measured and computed DC amps listed
above.  What is going on here?  Simply an innaccurate Astron meter?




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

2014-03-05 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT

Here is how I'd do it, your mileage may vary.

I'd measure the power draw at 100 watts key-down, and the power draw for 
receive.


I'd assume 50% duty cycle.  You can skip a lot of math by either 
ignoring the receive power draw (if it's low enough) and dividing by 
two, or adding them together and dividing by two (averaging them together).


Multiply that number by the number of hours you need to be able to 
operate -- and that's your target capacity in amp-hours.


That should over estimate the battery, so if that size wasn't 
economical, I'd buy one slightly smaller.


That should insure that the battery does the job for years, even when 
it's starting to fail.  It should also make sure you can keep operating 
if the emergency was longer than initially planned.


Yes, there are a lot of factors, like operating mode that this appears 
to ignore.  I'm simply assuming things like full power or nothing when 
the operator might be running SSB or PSK-31 at 20 watts.


I'm also ignoring portability, which I would not do if I was operating 
for fun.


73 -- Lynn

On 3/5/2014 1:15 PM, Steve Baum wrote:

There are so many things to consider when you try to calculate battery
requirements for emergency operation, is it really possible to accurately
predict how long a given battery will last?


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