[Elecraft] Counterpoise
I believe that most pedestrian mobile operators suggest walking away from the direction of your QSO when you utilize a dragging radial. An elevated counterpoise would probably be the same. Perhaps two decades ago I modeled single radials and counterpoises, and if my memory is correct I believe they all indicated that the wire should point in the general direction of your desired radiation. The above statements assume your radiator is more or less vertical. My (poor) models showed only a slight advantage in that direction….possibly only a very few dB.My portable antenna for my KX1 is usually a 17 foot radial laying on the ground and a 26 or 27 foot wire more or less vertical, or an inverted L. This is a very satisfactory portable antenna for 40, 30, and 20 meters. However not equal to my linked dipole with an apex up over about 25 feet which is heavier and harder to set up. Sometimes if this 17 foot wire is elevated, it will still tune all 3 bands, but sometimes I need a longer counterpoise wire to tune it up on 40 meters with the built in KX1 tuner. Probably 2, 3, or 4 symmetrical radials or counterpoise or radial wires would be the best solution if possible. The single radial solution is a compromise which is often enough to get you on the air and make some (good ?) QSO’s. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 7:01 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: > Theoretically, they > shouldn't need a return path, however mine is much easier to cram power > into with about 8 inches of wire hanging off the shield of the coax at > the radio on 20m. Oddly, EZNEC confirms it, YMMV. > Not sure whose theory you are quoting. Some genre of portable tuning networks require just a tiny bit of wire so there is actually someplace to stuff electrons. Higher power levels will need more wire to stop arcing. I always tell people to hang a yard or meter of wire there if the network has the the input from the transmitter isolated from the high impedance side. EZNEC correctly calculates the "capacity to the cosmos" of the wire in the model and knows whether it can be used as a counterpoise, which is what that eight inches actually is if there is no path from the high Z side to the transmitter side. The easiest thing is to use as a counterpoise for an EFHW is to solder a little flexible wire to a six inch nail, and stick it into the ground. 73, Guy. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
When I studied engineering (back when Marconi was a lad), a "dipole" was defined as a 1/2 wavelength radiator. I realize that definition has softened over the years, especially in the minds of Hams. Even engineering articles often refer to a non-1/2 wavelength radiator as a "dipole" nowadays. That's why I offered the comment to clarify that you were talking about a 1/2 wave radiator. 73 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 3:26 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ? Actually Ron, the pure form of "dipole" is an antenna with two ends, but typical usage refers to the half wavelength. Yes, I did mean a 1/2 wavelength dipole - sorry for not being specific. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/1/2012 5:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Note that Don said " RF Ground will be that point of zero RF voltage - > in a balanced dipole, it will be present right at the middle of the > center insulator." > > "Dipole" is the important word, meaning a radiator 1/2 wavelength > long. A full wave center fed antenna (two half waves in phase) will > have a voltage loop - high impedance point - at the center of the center insulator. > > As the center fed antenna is made shorter than a 1/2 wave, the > impedance at the center also rises. Think of it as "stuffing part of > the antenna down the feed line" to make up a 1/2 wave. > > 73, Ron AC7AC > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
On 7/1/2012 11:49 AM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with > me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable > operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I > am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a > counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? You might want to subscribe to the NA SOTA Yahoo Group Ron. SOTA is "Summits On The Air," analogous to IOTA. www.sota.org.uk is the main site. www.sotawatch.org is the site where alerts and posts are made. Light, efficient portable antennas are a big subject among the Summiteers and there are people there who can probably point you in useful directions. There are several folks in the NA SOTA crowd who use end-fed half-wave antennas on summits very successfully [Fred, KT5X is one]. You're feeding a very high impedance, so you need a matching network such as the one that Stu, KI6J, designs. EFHW's have the advantage that they're just wire [mine is on a little reel, I just pull out to the mark for that band] so they're very light and simple. Theoretically, they shouldn't need a return path, however mine is much easier to cram power into with about 8 inches of wire hanging off the shield of the coax at the radio on 20m. Oddly, EZNEC confirms it, YMMV. Another SOTA ham is Mike, KD9KC, in El Paso. He's been using the AlexLoop magnetic loop antenna and has very good things to say about it. It is a little pricy compared to a half wavelength of wire, but Mike carries his to some fairly high summits and on long hikes. It shouldn't be that hard to build one from scratch. If you're outside and worried about grounding for lightning, you shouldn't be outside. :-) If your radio is battery powered, AC mains safety grounding isn't really an issue. It's always a good idea to make sure the antenna connector has a high value resistor [~100K] across it to bleed precip and wind/dust static. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire
This has largely been answered, but perhaps you would like a personal perspective on the overall antenna choices with a summary of "grounding" aspects. There is an enormous number of possible antenna designs for portable use, but the most popular types seem to be the end-fed conductor and the center-fed conductor. A connection to the actual ground (soil) is not recommended in any case. I like to think of end-fed conductors as "short" or "long". A "short" one is one which is fed at or near a current maximum. A quarter wave is one example, but shorter wires and even somewhat longer ones fall in this category. A "long" end-fed conductor would be a half-wave, or something a little shorter, or anything longer. A "short" end-fed conductor is probably the lightest and most convenient portable antenna. It does need a counterpoise, which is typically a single wire about 1/8 to 1/4 wavelength long. You place the counterpoise on the ground, or better, on top of some bushes. You can do the same with the antenna wire itself, but you will get better results if you have a support to elevate the far end. A tree is good if there is one available. A light fiberglass pole is less suitable, as these tend to be very flexible, and the top bends with the one-sided load. Another approach is to use a stiff conductor that supports itself. I like my BuddiPole used as a vertical conductor (with or without any loading coil; don't be afraid to use a loading coil if you want to; if the radiator is less than 1/4 wavelenght the tuner in your radio will act as a loading coil anyway.) Any stiff conductor can be used in the same way. A "long" end-fed conductor also generally needs a counterpoise, and the same considerations apply, but with some nuances. With the "short" antenna the maximum antenna current will be at the feedpoint, which means low elevation. The "long" antenna will have one or more current maxima higher up. I haven't done side-by-side comparison, or even comparative modelling, but I believe you can expect better performance when you get the current maximum or maxima up higher above ground rather than right at the radio. Another nuance: As the antenna becomes much longer than 1/2 wavelength, it becomes less desirable to have it oriented vertically if you are interested in dx. A sloping wire is good. A special case is when the "long" wire is 1/2 wavelength or multiples thereof. You then have a very high feed impedance. You may then need a special matching unit rather than the standard tuner in the radio, but otoh the feed current will be very small, and the counterpoise can probably be shorter than usual. The center-fed radiators don't need a counterpoise, or you can view one half as the counterpoise. You can get by with one support in the middle, and the mechanical load is symmetrical, so a very light pole will work for a wire dipole. With this configuration you won't have a current maximum at ground level. My personal experience is mostly with "short" wires and center-fed wires or stiff radiators. All of them work, but I tend to have better results with the center-feds than the short end-feds. Long end-feds may be the best if your support can handle the one-sided pull. Erik K7TV >I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? Ron KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
Actually Ron, the pure form of "dipole" is an antenna with two ends, but typical usage refers to the half wavelength. Yes, I did mean a 1/2 wavelength dipole - sorry for not being specific. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/1/2012 5:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Note that Don said " RF Ground will be that point of zero RF voltage - in a > balanced dipole, it will be present right at the middle of the center > insulator." > > "Dipole" is the important word, meaning a radiator 1/2 wavelength long. A > full wave center fed antenna (two half waves in phase) will have a voltage > loop - high impedance point - at the center of the center insulator. > > As the center fed antenna is made shorter than a 1/2 wave, the impedance at > the center also rises. Think of it as "stuffing part of the antenna down the > feed line" to make up a 1/2 wave. > > 73, Ron AC7AC > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
The "classic zepp" antenna lives on in VHF circles, and is known as a J-Pole. Turn the Zepp vertically and you have a J-pole. The major difference is the J-pole feed - the 1/4 wave transmission line section is shorted at the bottom and teh 50 ohm feedline is connected up a bit where the impedance is 50 ohms. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/1/2012 5:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > That was the beauty of the Zeppelin antenna (the true "Zepp") A half wave > radiator is end fed through 1/4 wavelength of open wire line. One side of > the line connected to the radiator and the other side connected to nothing > - just an insulator. Since very little current flows at the feed point, the > balance in the line is still good. The 1/4 wavelength of line converted the > high impedance at the radiator to a low impedance at the rig. Of course > that's only true at one frequency for a given length of radiator and feed > line. > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
Yes, feeding any radiator at a voltage loop (high impedance point) eliminates the need for an RF ground return for high efficiency. After all, at a voltage loop very little current flows so there is little need for a return for ground currents to flow! However, the rig may tend to "float" up to the same high RF voltage as the antenna, making the rig subject to "hand capacity" effects, providing RF "bites" or burns when touching equipment and, with modern solid state gear, can cause rectified RF to produce undesired results. But in that case even a relatively poor "ground" will usually tame the situation. That was the beauty of the Zeppelin antenna (the true "Zepp") A half wave radiator is end fed through 1/4 wavelength of open wire line. One side of the line connected to the radiator and the other side connected to nothing - just an insulator. Since very little current flows at the feed point, the balance in the line is still good. The 1/4 wavelength of line converted the high impedance at the radiator to a low impedance at the rig. Of course that's only true at one frequency for a given length of radiator and feed line. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ariel Jacala Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 1:36 PM To: Ronald Nutter Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ? We have had great success with end fed half wave dipoles made by LNR Precision without the need for counter poise wires nor even tuners. Specifically we have used the 40-20-10 multi and version which we used for field day this year. When properly tuned at first use, the SWR have been below 1.5 for the bands it was designed for. I use it all the time with KX1 without the need for an ATU. I have made plenty of contacts into eastern Europe which is better than a 1000 miles per watt on a KX1 when used as a vertical or near vertical sloper. Google Par end fed 40-20-10 and look at the reviews on eHam. Ariel NY4G Sent from my iPad On Jul 1, 2012, at 2:50 PM, "Ronald Nutter" wrote: > I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane > with me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a > portable operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the > radio ? I am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need > a counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? > > Ron > KA4KYI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
Note that Don said " RF Ground will be that point of zero RF voltage - in a balanced dipole, it will be present right at the middle of the center insulator." "Dipole" is the important word, meaning a radiator 1/2 wavelength long. A full wave center fed antenna (two half waves in phase) will have a voltage loop - high impedance point - at the center of the center insulator. As the center fed antenna is made shorter than a 1/2 wave, the impedance at the center also rises. Think of it as "stuffing part of the antenna down the feed line" to make up a 1/2 wave. 73, Ron AC7AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
I agree that the PAR EndFedz antennas are good and easy to put up. The reason the PAR EndFedz can use no counterpoise wire has to do with the return connection for the tuning network - it is connected to the coax shield. That means the coax shield is doing double duty - the outside is acting as the counterpoise while the inside is carrying the RF current. For End Fed Halfwave Antennas that do not have a connection like that, the use of a short (0.05 wavelength) counterpoise is required to make it work. For more informationm check out the information by AA5TB at http://www.aa5tb.com/efha.html. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/1/2012 4:36 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote: > We have had great success with end fed half wave dipoles made by LNR > Precision without the need for counter poise wires nor even tuners. > Specifically we have used the 40-20-10 multi and version which we used for > field day this year. When properly tuned at first use, the SWR have been > below 1.5 for the bands it was designed for. I use it all the time with KX1 > without the need for an ATU. I have made plenty of contacts into eastern > Europe which is better than a 1000 miles per watt on a KX1 when used as a > vertical or near vertical sloper. > > Google Par end fed 40-20-10 and look at the reviews on eHam. > > Ariel NY4G > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
We have had great success with end fed half wave dipoles made by LNR Precision without the need for counter poise wires nor even tuners. Specifically we have used the 40-20-10 multi and version which we used for field day this year. When properly tuned at first use, the SWR have been below 1.5 for the bands it was designed for. I use it all the time with KX1 without the need for an ATU. I have made plenty of contacts into eastern Europe which is better than a 1000 miles per watt on a KX1 when used as a vertical or near vertical sloper. Google Par end fed 40-20-10 and look at the reviews on eHam. Ariel NY4G Sent from my iPad On Jul 1, 2012, at 2:50 PM, "Ronald Nutter" wrote: > I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with > me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable > operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I > am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a > counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? > > Ron > KA4KYI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
Counterpoise wires OR radials are a big help. They usually work better if elevated a foot or so, but this can be a dangerous situation to passers by AND operator of the station as well! Kids will ALWAYS get fouled up in them unless you are somewhere that is isolated from the usual inquisitive passer by. Length? that varies with ground you lay them on, conductivity of the soil, many arcane factors! I used to use at least 3 laid on ground made from "loud" striped small guage hookup wire. The MIL-SPEC stuff that is usually white with red/yellow/black tracer stripes. If you work the "low bands" (80/40/30 meters) placement sometimes get harder than shorter wires that can be used for higher bands (20-10 meters). SOmetimes a 30-40 foot long radiator will suffice for general use although I like to use an 85-90 foot "antenna" for 80/40, and the shorter 30-40 footer for the higher bands. Vertical or an "inverted L". Have been using an MFJ 33' telescopic fibreglass mast that is easy to transport and can be erected and lashed with bungee to a garden type hand tiller tool that can be easily "planted" in ground with no rocks. Trees, hedges can be used for supports of there is no other way to suspend the wire. A small "L" section tuner can be easily constructed with a common dual 365 pf tuning capacitor and a coil wound on PVC pipe with make a handy antenna tuner (required in ALL instances!) You will be surprised at what you can do with QRP and jury rig antennas! Nothing beats having several coiled up bundles of hookup wire in various lengths (16, 33, 45, 85, 120') for the "radials" or the radiators. Some of the "Buddy pole" setups seem to work well sometimes not! For the most part I've found them to be more of a bother to erect and use and work no better than the right length radiator and counterpoise system at a fraction of the price of a BUddypole. No two locations are the same, so it is VERY difficult to describe what will work and what doesn't. I have worked DX like mad on 20 meters around midnight when the band is open with 5 watts QRP in a wood frame house with a 20' length of hookup wire hanging from push pin tacks at the junction of ceiling and wall. Counterpoise in this case, a wire running around the baseboard of the room. The "key" is trying it and you will find out what does and what doesn't work. I have had some very good results from the Elecraft T1 mini auto tuner working with my K1. The T1 has a MUCH greater matching range than the internal KAT1 tuner by the way! Long and short of it is I always use "some" kind of counterpoise/radial system, even if only one wire. Always use an "end fed" radiator that goes right to the "hot" terminal of the tuner output. No coax, no twinlead which is an awful liability mechanically to work with. Small light coax can have awful losses on an untuned dipole which can be a disaster when you are playing with 5 watts or less. Keep it light, keep it simple and EXPERIMENT. NO two setups are the same! 73, Sandy W5TVW Used to use HW-7, HW-8, HW-9 portable, Ten Tec "PM" series DC rigs, Tec Tec Argonaut, homebrewed stuff. My favorite still is the Elecraft K1! -Original Message- From: Ronald Nutter Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 1:49 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ? I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? Ron KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2180 / Virus Database: 2437/5104 - Release Date: 07/01/12 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
Ron (and all), Normally grounds are installed for safety. If you are portable, you normally do not need a ground because there is no connection to the AC power lines. I am fairly certain you will not be operating portable with antennas connected when there is lightning close enough to be harmful, so no need for a lightning ground. That leaves an RF Ground - and contrary to amateur myth one does not achieve an RF Ground by connecting to mother earth - an RF Ground will be present at some point in any antenna system - just due to the characteristics of physics. RF Ground will be that point of zero RF voltage - in a balanced dipole, it will be present right at the middle of the center insulator. So the short answer is -- if the particular antenna needs a counterpoise wire to control the impedance and balance of the antenna system, then add it. RF does need a "return path" (different than RF Ground), and the RF will make its own return path if one is not provided. It may be the coax shield, the transmitter enclosure, etc. if no planned and proper return path is provided. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/1/2012 2:49 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with > me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable > operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I > am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a > counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?
I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ? Ron KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Counterpoise article
There is an exhaustive article about the counterpoise, written by L.B. Cebik (W4RNL) in the Winter 2008 issue of the QRP QUARTERLY. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
