Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

Good to hear you were successful.
Yes, many amateur grade wattmeters are not accurate at low power.  
Remember that those with analog meters have an accuracy spec based on 
percentage of full scale - that is even true of the much revered Bird 
meters which are speced at 5% of full scale - immediately after 
calibration (many amateur grade meters are speced at 20%)  On a 100 watt 
scale, 5% is 5 watts *anywhere* on the scale!  That fact makes measuring 
a 2 watt signal level problematic.  The meter can read anywhere between 
2 watts (plus or minus) 5 watts and still be correct - the student 
should do the math. :-)

73,
Don W3FPR

Paul Locker wrote:
 Don,

 I followed your steps outlined and it looks good.  The issue could be me 
 trusting my watt meter.  I think it's time I invested in a new watt meter.
 Tomorrow I hope to spend some time testing it on the air.

 Thank you again for your help.

 Paul
 k4pml
   

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[Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-16 Thread Paul Locker
I have just finished the installation of my kat2 I got at Dayton.  I am seeing 
a 
high current warning for any band I use above 2 watts.  I tried the other 
antenna position and noticed it resulted in a different swr.  I changed my 
ground and that didn't improve the high current warning as I read in the manual 
that it could be an issue.  


Is there anything specific I need to check or do to start my troubleshooting?

Paul
k4pml


 Don't forget to take the right Path

 -JRDL



  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

Not quite enough information yet to give you a positive answer.
Are you using the KAT2 in the ATU CAL menu setting?  If not, what do you 
have connected to the ANT jack(s) - hopefully a dummy load.  If it is 
other than a dummy load, what happens with a dummy load attached?
Did you obtain a good null when you balanced the KAT2 wattmeter?  If 
not, that is the starting point, even if that is not the problem source.

73,
Don W3FPR

Paul Locker wrote:
 I have just finished the installation of my kat2 I got at Dayton.  I am 
 seeing a 
 high current warning for any band I use above 2 watts.  I tried the other 
 antenna position and noticed it resulted in a different swr.  I changed my 
 ground and that didn't improve the high current warning as I read in the 
 manual 
 that it could be an issue.  


 Is there anything specific I need to check or do to start my troubleshooting?

 Paul
 k4pml


  Don't forget to take the right Path

  -JRDL



   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-16 Thread Paul Locker
Don et all,
I've had a dummy load connected and still get a high current message.  With the 
same dummy load, the ATU struggles to find a match for ant1, however for ant2 
it 
finds a match with out issues.For my null, I got 006.  


This evening I'm going to go back and redo the CALn setting.


Thank you for your time on the list.


Paul


 Don't forget to take the right Path

 -JRDL





From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Paul Locker pmlo...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 8:01:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

Paul,

Not quite enough information yet to give you a positive answer.
Are you using the KAT2 in the ATU CAL menu setting?  If not, what do you have 
connected to the ANT jack(s) - hopefully a dummy load.  If it is other than a 
dummy load, what happens with a dummy load attached?
Did you obtain a good null when you balanced the KAT2 wattmeter?  If not, that 
is the starting point, even if that is not the problem source.

73,
Don W3FPR

Paul Locker wrote:
 I have just finished the installation of my kat2 I got at Dayton.  I am 
 seeing 
a high current warning for any band I use above 2 watts.  I tried the other 
antenna position and noticed it resulted in a different swr.  I changed my 
ground and that didn't improve the high current warning as I read in the 
manual 
that it could be an issue.  

 
 Is there anything specific I need to check or do to start my troubleshooting?
 
 Paul
 k4pml
 
 
  Don't forget to take the right Path
 
  -JRDL
 
 
 
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 Elecraft mailing list
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 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
 
  


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

If you got a null reading of 006, there is no sense in re-doing it - 
that is sufficiently low.
Do the procedures below in the order listed.  Stop when one does not 
produce the expected result.  Each step depends on the one prior to it.

Put the KAT2 in CALn, CAL P or CAL S and then remove the coax from the 
K2 RF Board (but connect a 50 ohm dummy load to ANT1.
Measure the resistance between the KAT2 input coax and ground - it 
should read 50 ohms (just like your dummy load).  If that is not the 
case, you likely have a soldering problem at one of the relays.

Ignoring the potential relay problem for a bit, it would be a good idea 
to verify the wattmeter.  Set the KAT2 to ANT1 and then power off and 
separate the KAT2 Control Board from the LC board and set the LC board 
aside.  Make a jumper wire that extends from J4 pin 2 to J5 pin 15 (this 
is a long jumper that plugs into the 2nd pin from the extreme ends of J4 
and J5).  That bypasses the L/C section of the KAT2 completely.

Measure the resistance between the center conductor of the input coax 
and the center conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should be very low 
resistance.  If that is true, then go on to the next step - otherwise 
stop and let me know what you find.

Now, connect a dummy load to the ANT1 jack.  As a sanity check, measure 
the resistance from the center conductor of the input coax and the 
shield - it should be 50 ohms, if it is not, find the problem before 
proceeding.

If you measured 50 ohms in the step above, connect the input coax to the 
RF Board and try a TUNE with the Power knob set to greater than 2 
watts.  You should have about 2 watts output.  Next set the menu ATU  
parameter to CAL P and connect a wattmeter that you trust at the 2 watt 
level between the ANT1 jack and the dummy load, and do a TUNE.  Adjust 
R1 (FWD) to make the K2 display match your external wattmeter. 

If the above procedure is successful, remove the jumper and mate the L/C 
board to the control board and repeat the procedure.  The results should 
be almost the same, but you may have to tweak the R1 pot a bit because 
there is some residual impedance in the L/C section of the KAT2.

If you got this far, you are almost done (and all is OK).  Set the REFL 
pot to the same physical position as the FWD pot and put everything back 
in order - you are done.

Let us know where the steps above fail.  What works as well as where it 
fails is important.

73,
Don W3FPR



Paul Locker wrote:
 Don et all,
 I've had a dummy load connected and still get a high current message.  With 
 the 
 same dummy load, the ATU struggles to find a match for ant1, however for ant2 
 it 
 finds a match with out issues.For my null, I got 006.  


 This evening I'm going to go back and redo the CALn setting.


 Thank you for your time on the list.


 Paul


  Don't forget to take the right Path

  -JRDL




 
 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Paul Locker pmlo...@yahoo.com
 Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 8:01:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

 Paul,

 Not quite enough information yet to give you a positive answer.
 Are you using the KAT2 in the ATU CAL menu setting?  If not, what do you have 
 connected to the ANT jack(s) - hopefully a dummy load.  If it is other than a 
 dummy load, what happens with a dummy load attached?
 Did you obtain a good null when you balanced the KAT2 wattmeter?  If not, 
 that 
 is the starting point, even if that is not the problem source.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Paul Locker wrote:
   
 I have just finished the installation of my kat2 I got at Dayton.  I am 
 seeing 
 a high current warning for any band I use above 2 watts.  I tried the other 
 antenna position and noticed it resulted in a different swr.  I changed my 
 ground and that didn't improve the high current warning as I read in the 
 manual 
 that it could be an issue.  


 Is there anything specific I need to check or do to start my troubleshooting?

 Paul
 k4pml


  Don't forget to take the right Path

  -JRDL



   __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

  
 


   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

2010-07-16 Thread Paul Locker
Don,

I followed your steps outlined and it looks good.  The issue could be me 
trusting my watt meter.  I think it's time I invested in a new watt meter.
Tomorrow I hope to spend some time testing it on the air.

Thank you again for your help.

Paul
k4pml



Put the KAT2 in CALn, CAL P or CAL S and then remove the coax from  the K2 RF 
Board (but connect a 50 ohm dummy load to ANT1.
Measure the  resistance between the KAT2 input coax and ground - it should read 
50  ohms (just like your dummy load).  If that is not the case, you likely  
have 
a soldering problem at one of the relays.

##  Ant1 measures 51 ohms resistance at the KAT2 input coax,ground

Ignoring the  potential relay problem for a bit, it would be a good idea to 
verify the  wattmeter.  Set the KAT2 to ANT1 and then power off and separate 
the  
KAT2 Control Board from the LC board and set the LC board aside.  Make a  
jumper 
wire that extends from J4 pin 2 to J5 pin 15 (this is a long  jumper that plugs 
into the 2nd pin from the extreme ends of J4 and J5).   That bypasses the L/C 
section of the KAT2 completely.

Measure  the resistance between the center conductor of the input coax and the  
center conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should be very low resistance.   If that 
is true, then go on to the next step - otherwise stop and let me  know what you 
find.

## The resistance between the center conductor of the input coax and the center 
conductor of the ANT1 jack is .1 ohms.

Now, connect a dummy load to the ANT1 jack.   As a sanity check, measure the 
resistance from the center conductor of  the input coax and the shield - it 
should be 50 ohms, if it is not, find  the problem before proceeding.

## The resistance between the center conductor of the input coax to the shield 
is 50 ohms.

If you measured 50 ohms in the  step above, connect the input coax to the RF 
Board and try a TUNE with  the Power knob set to greater than 2 watts.  You 
should have about 2  watts output.  Next set the menu ATU  parameter to CAL P 
and connect a  wattmeter that you trust at the 2 watt level between the ANT1 
jack and  the dummy load, and do a TUNE.  Adjust R1 (FWD) to make the K2 
display  
match your external wattmeter. 

If the above procedure is successful,  remove the jumper and mate the L/C board 
to the control board and  repeat the procedure.  The results should be almost 
the same, but you  may have to tweak the R1 pot a bit because there is some 
residual  impedance in the L/C section of the KAT2.

 
## This worked fine this time.  


Don't forget to take the right Path

 -JRDL





From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Paul Locker pmlo...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 10:30:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions

Paul,

If you got a null reading of 006, there is no sense in re-doing it - that is 
sufficiently low.
Do the procedures below in the order listed.  Stop when one does not produce 
the 
expected result.  Each step depends on the one prior to it.

Put the KAT2 in CALn, CAL P or CAL S and then remove the coax from the K2 RF 
Board (but connect a 50 ohm dummy load to ANT1.
Measure the resistance between the KAT2 input coax and ground - it should read 
50 ohms (just like your dummy load).  If that is not the case, you likely have 
a 
soldering problem at one of the relays.

Ignoring the potential relay problem for a bit, it would be a good idea to 
verify the wattmeter.  Set the KAT2 to ANT1 and then power off and separate the 
KAT2 Control Board from the LC board and set the LC board aside.  Make a jumper 
wire that extends from J4 pin 2 to J5 pin 15 (this is a long jumper that plugs 
into the 2nd pin from the extreme ends of J4 and J5).  That bypasses the L/C 
section of the KAT2 completely.

Measure the resistance between the center conductor of the input coax and the 
center conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should be very low resistance.  If that 
is true, then go on to the next step - otherwise stop and let me know what you 
find.

Now, connect a dummy load to the ANT1 jack.  As a sanity check, measure the 
resistance from the center conductor of the input coax and the shield - it 
should be 50 ohms, if it is not, find the problem before proceeding.

If you measured 50 ohms in the step above, connect the input coax to the RF 
Board and try a TUNE with the Power knob set to greater than 2 watts.  You 
should have about 2 watts output.  Next set the menu ATU  parameter to CAL P 
and 
connect a wattmeter that you trust at the 2 watt level between the ANT1 jack 
and 
the dummy load, and do a TUNE.  Adjust R1 (FWD) to make the K2 display match 
your external wattmeter. 

If the above procedure is successful, remove the jumper and mate the L/C board 
to the control board and repeat the procedure.  The results should be almost 
the 
same, but you may have to tweak the R1 pot a bit because there is some residual 
impedance in the L/C section of the KAT2