Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
Amen. ( you stole my thunder, Harry. :-) Another way to resolve the offset alignment problem is to have a mechanical stop which keeps the connector from mating when it is offset. The panel can be the stop if the connector is recessed to be flush with the panel, and the hole is the right size. Alternatively, a bolt or standoff on either end of the panel connector pair can act as a stop and a guide. This solution does not address cable-to-cable connections. I suspect the APP solution would be to use three housings on cables, red in the middle, black on one end, and a dummy blocking pin glued into the other. They sell long spacers which could be used for the blocking pin. 73, Paul N6LL Still recovering from the 2-pin Jones which the local club wired backwards... On 2/17/2015 3:33 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote: There is a third potential problem with APP connectors; they aren’t completely “reverse polarity” protected. Several years ago, I stupidly plugged the APP cable into the back of my K3 “by feel” rather than by looking. I offset the alignment, and plugged the red plug from the cable (hot) into the black APP connector on the rig. Since I had grounded the K3 like a good boy. that created a reverse-polarity power situation that fried several components and resulted in a trip to Aptos for my K3. There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to never, ever plug an APP set into a piece of equipment without visually checking to make sure you are aligned “red to red, black to black.” It’s also possible to mate the APP connectors so that you can’t plug red into black (by rotating the red plug 90° on both the rig and the power cable. I’ve come to rely on the former solution, but have seriously contemplated equipment modifications to do the latter. All that said, I am a steadfast supporter of APP connector technology. For all the reasons cited in other posts, I think it’s superior to every other power connector on the market. And contrary to some posts, it doesn’t require an “expensive special tool” to crimp the pins. onto wires. There are several low-cost “pliers-like” crimpers on the market, including the Gardner-Bender GS-88 ($10) that do a good job at a modest price. And speaking of crimping tools, for those who prefer crimped lugs to solder, Harbor Freight’s hydraulic crimping tool (Item 66150) is a real gem for crimping lugs onto large wires (AWG 8 and bigger.) It isn’t cheap, but it makes a perfectly formed (and very secure) crimp in copper and other lugs typically used on large-gauge wires. It does a good job on smaller sizes, too, although it’s somewhat cumbersome to use compared with other crimpers that work well on AWG 12 and smaller wire sizes. Lew Phelps N6LEW Pasadena, CA DM04wd Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432 Yaesu FT-7800 l...@n6lew.us www.n6lew.us Sent from my Mac Pro 256-Array Supercomputer (9.42 teraflops) On Feb 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems" with the APP connector. One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it comes unplugged" That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector blades are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that I first responded to. The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated, and seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This has to do with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being placed in the hole. I use Super Glue between the red and black housings and have never had a problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in addition, but I put a drop of super glue on the pin itself before sliding it 'home'. I have never had an APP connector where the 2 housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not fall out. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote: Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick. Terry W0FM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to n...@arrl.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mail
Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
Actually what I do on the power distribution boxes I build is to recess the power poles. It makes it nearly impossible to insert the connector wrong. I have a small rectangle with a hole in the center for the power pole that I plan tomount on the back of my K3 to prevent the possibility of the plug being inserted wrong. a 5 cent piece of plastic could save a whole lot of trouble From: Lewis Phelps To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 6:33 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute There is a third potential problem with APP connectors; they aren’t completely “reverse polarity” protected. Several years ago, I stupidly plugged the APP cable into the back of my K3 “by feel” rather than by looking. I offset the alignment, and plugged the red plug from the cable (hot) into the black APP connector on the rig. Since I had grounded the K3 like a good boy. that created a reverse-polarity power situation that fried several components and resulted in a trip to Aptos for my K3. There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to never, ever plug an APP set into a piece of equipment without visually checking to make sure you are aligned “red to red, black to black.” It’s also possible to mate the APP connectors so that you can’t plug red into black (by rotating the red plug 90° on both the rig and the power cable. I’ve come to rely on the former solution, but have seriously contemplated equipment modifications to do the latter. All that said, I am a steadfast supporter of APP connector technology. For all the reasons cited in other posts, I think it’s superior to every other power connector on the market. And contrary to some posts, it doesn’t require an “expensive special tool” to crimp the pins. onto wires. There are several low-cost “pliers-like” crimpers on the market, including the Gardner-Bender GS-88 ($10) that do a good job at a modest price. And speaking of crimping tools, for those who prefer crimped lugs to solder, Harbor Freight’s hydraulic crimping tool (Item 66150) is a real gem for crimping lugs onto large wires (AWG 8 and bigger.) It isn’t cheap, but it makes a perfectly formed (and very secure) crimp in copper and other lugs typically used on large-gauge wires. It does a good job on smaller sizes, too, although it’s somewhat cumbersome to use compared with other crimpers that work well on AWG 12 and smaller wire sizes. Lew Phelps N6LEW Pasadena, CA DM04wd Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432 Yaesu FT-7800 l...@n6lew.us www.n6lew.us Sent from my Mac Pro 256-Array Supercomputer (9.42 teraflops) > On Feb 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems" with the > APP connector. > One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it comes > unplugged" > That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector blades > are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that I first > responded to. > > The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated, and > seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This has to do > with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being placed in the hole. > I use Super Glue between the red and black housings and have never had a > problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in addition, but I put a drop of > super glue on the pin itself before sliding it 'home'. I have never had an > APP connector where the 2 housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not > fall out. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote: >> Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break >> off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on >> the toothpick. >> >> Terry W0FM >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to hlyin...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qt
Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
There is a third potential problem with APP connectors; they aren’t completely “reverse polarity” protected. Several years ago, I stupidly plugged the APP cable into the back of my K3 “by feel” rather than by looking. I offset the alignment, and plugged the red plug from the cable (hot) into the black APP connector on the rig. Since I had grounded the K3 like a good boy. that created a reverse-polarity power situation that fried several components and resulted in a trip to Aptos for my K3. There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to never, ever plug an APP set into a piece of equipment without visually checking to make sure you are aligned “red to red, black to black.” It’s also possible to mate the APP connectors so that you can’t plug red into black (by rotating the red plug 90° on both the rig and the power cable. I’ve come to rely on the former solution, but have seriously contemplated equipment modifications to do the latter. All that said, I am a steadfast supporter of APP connector technology. For all the reasons cited in other posts, I think it’s superior to every other power connector on the market. And contrary to some posts, it doesn’t require an “expensive special tool” to crimp the pins. onto wires. There are several low-cost “pliers-like” crimpers on the market, including the Gardner-Bender GS-88 ($10) that do a good job at a modest price. And speaking of crimping tools, for those who prefer crimped lugs to solder, Harbor Freight’s hydraulic crimping tool (Item 66150) is a real gem for crimping lugs onto large wires (AWG 8 and bigger.) It isn’t cheap, but it makes a perfectly formed (and very secure) crimp in copper and other lugs typically used on large-gauge wires. It does a good job on smaller sizes, too, although it’s somewhat cumbersome to use compared with other crimpers that work well on AWG 12 and smaller wire sizes. Lew Phelps N6LEW Pasadena, CA DM04wd Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432 Yaesu FT-7800 l...@n6lew.us www.n6lew.us Sent from my Mac Pro 256-Array Supercomputer (9.42 teraflops) > On Feb 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems" with the > APP connector. > One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it comes > unplugged" > That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector blades > are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that I first > responded to. > > The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated, and > seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This has to do > with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being placed in the hole. > I use Super Glue between the red and black housings and have never had a > problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in addition, but I put a drop of > super glue on the pin itself before sliding it 'home'. I have never had an > APP connector where the 2 housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not > fall out. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote: >> Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break >> off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on >> the toothpick. >> >> Terry W0FM >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
Can we get an AMEN? On 2/17/2015 3:44 PM, K4ia via Elecraft wrote: And therein lies the problem: First, they may be cute but they ain't cheap Then, you have to buy a special crimper The assembly is tricky (up, down, right, left - did I hear it snap in place or snap in two?) You could try to use a roll pin - oh no, those don't work as designed so you use a broken-off QTip Even with the QTip/roll pin/toothpick, you have to superglue the halves together because they won't hold as designed Then, you have to put a zip tie or tape around them so they don't pull out Plus, they are flimsy plastic so they are prone to breaking The Powerpole is a Mickey Mouse solution in search of a problem. What was wrong with the good old Molex? To keep this on an Elecraft related topic, I just hope these things don't show up on any more wonderful Elecraft equipment. Buck __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
And therein lies the problem: First, they may be cute but they ain't cheap Then, you have to buy a special crimper The assembly is tricky (up, down, right, left - did I hear it snap in place or snap in two?) You could try to use a roll pin - oh no, those don't work as designed so you use a broken-off QTip Even with the QTip/roll pin/toothpick, you have to superglue the halves together because they won't hold as designed Then, you have to put a zip tie or tape around them so they don't pull out Plus, they are flimsy plastic so they are prone to breaking The Powerpole is a Mickey Mouse solution in search of a problem. What was wrong with the good old Molex? To keep this on an Elecraft related topic, I just hope these things don't show up on any more wonderful Elecraft equipment. Buck k4ia On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote: Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick. Terry W0FM -Original Message- From: Phil & Debbie Salas [mailto:dpsa...@tx.rr.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:21 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . I have to admit. I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors. Most are really not designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish the KX3 had Powerpoles on it instead! I have Powerpoles all over my ham shack and work bench, and have had no problems. Rather than used those roll-pins, I use a dab of super-glue to hold the connectors together. Phil - AD5X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems" with the APP connector. One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it comes unplugged" That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector blades are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that I first responded to. The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated, and seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This has to do with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being placed in the hole. I use Super Glue between the red and black housings and have never had a problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in addition, but I put a drop of super glue on the pin itself before sliding it 'home'. I have never had an APP connector where the 2 housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not fall out. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote: Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick. Terry W0FM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute
Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick. Terry W0FM -Original Message- From: Phil & Debbie Salas [mailto:dpsa...@tx.rr.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:21 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . I have to admit. I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors. Most are really not designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish the KX3 had Powerpoles on it instead! I have Powerpoles all over my ham shack and work bench, and have had no problems. Rather than used those roll-pins, I use a dab of super-glue to hold the connectors together. Phil - AD5X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
