Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

2019-08-17 Thread W0CD
All,

Thanks for the replies (and several direct emails I received). It sounds
like it's much easier now than it was when the K2 was first introduced.

Thanks again.



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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

2019-08-15 Thread Jim Fuller

On 8/15/2019 12:00 PM, W0CD wrote:

Good afternoon.

I just received a new K2 kit from Elecraft (#7899). It includes all
available options for the K2/100 (amp, audio filter, 60m, SSB, etc.).

I understand adding these components after the K2 is built will require a
bit of rework to be completed. Is this true if you are building the entire
kit, with accessories, from scratch? I noticed the rework boards are no
longer available and I want to be sure I eliminate as much rework as
possible (if possible).

In other words, are there any accessories / addons I should be installing at
the time of the K2 build -- or do I complete the base K2 first before moving
on.


When I built mine, I built the option kits first, which got me familiar 
the assembly manuals, then I built the main kit, including the various 
connectors for the options, some of which needed temporary jumpers, 
where I used pushon jumper thingies.  It also involved a lot of 
perusing, and cross-referencing, the manuals. Once the main radio was 
finished and tested, then I added (plugged in) the option boards, one at 
a time, testing everything as I went. It all worked spendidly.


The only parts that I needed to add to the main radio at the time I 
built it were the connectors for the options, which were included in the 
options kits,  and some temporary jumpers.


--
Jim Fuller
N5XH

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

2019-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

James,

The amount of "rework" is minimal.  There are ways to avoid doing as 
much component removal and changes, but I would not recommend that you 
do it on your initial kit build.


If you were to build a 2nd K2 (after installing the various options 
once), then I can see you reviewing the installation steps for the 
options and doing those things as you build the K2, but for the first 
time, build the base K2, do the alignment and test, and then add the 
options.


To help set your mind at ease, the components that you will need to 
remove for each of the options is as follows:

KPA100 -- none
K160RX -- none
KXV60  -- remove two capacitors
KAF2  -- remove two wires on the back of the control board
KNB2  -- change 3 resistors
KSB2  -- remove one capacitor

So IMHO, the "rework" is minimal.  Most of the work for installation of 
the options is adds to the RF Board.  For older K2s (below SN 3000), 
there is a bit more rework, but not for yours.


The hardest part of removing components from the boards is removing the 
solder from the holes.  You can even waste the component to be removed 
and pull the leads out one at a time.  Clean up the solder pads with 
solder wick, and if solder remains in the holes, heat the pad and push 
the solder out with a wooden toothpick so you can insert the new 
component or header.


73,
Don W3FPR




On 8/15/2019 1:00 PM, W0CD wrote:

Good afternoon.

I just received a new K2 kit from Elecraft (#7899). It includes all
available options for the K2/100 (amp, audio filter, 60m, SSB, etc.).

I understand adding these components after the K2 is built will require a
bit of rework to be completed. Is this true if you are building the entire
kit, with accessories, from scratch? I noticed the rework boards are no
longer available and I want to be sure I eliminate as much rework as
possible (if possible).


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[Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

2019-08-15 Thread W0CD
Good afternoon. 

I just received a new K2 kit from Elecraft (#7899). It includes all
available options for the K2/100 (amp, audio filter, 60m, SSB, etc.).

I understand adding these components after the K2 is built will require a
bit of rework to be completed. Is this true if you are building the entire
kit, with accessories, from scratch? I noticed the rework boards are no
longer available and I want to be sure I eliminate as much rework as
possible (if possible).

In other words, are there any accessories / addons I should be installing at
the time of the K2 build -- or do I complete the base K2 first before moving
on.

Thanks!

James - W0CD



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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-22 Thread Jay Rutherford
Oh, No! Say it isn't so, Don!

Sorry to hear this news. It's been about a generation of your supporting hams 
with their legacy Elecraft radi!os through builds, upgrades, and repairs. I'm 
glad I got my K2 A-to-B upgrade from you before this decision.

I wish you many more years of helpful activity on the reflector.

73 Jay K3BH

On Mon, Jan 21, 2019, at 18:36, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> I can no longer work as fast because of hand tremors. It has gotten bad 
> enough that I have decided not to take on any new build or repair jobs. 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

My real advantage is that I no longer have to read in detail to follow 
the assembly steps, but if you are doing it for the first time, do read 
carefully and completely as you are working.  My first one (Field Test) 
took me 34 hours.  There is no shame in taking 60 hours or more to build 
a K2 - proceed at your own comfortable pace, it is not a race, and going 
faster often leads to extended troubleshooting or an expensive repair 
because of build errors.


I can no longer work as fast because of hand tremors.  It has gotten bad 
enough that I have decided not to take on any new build or repair jobs. 
I will be continuing to provide support on this reflector.


Yes, it is a part of getting older!

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/21/2019 6:24 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

I think so.  Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 
hours.  But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and 
skills.  We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed 
neither of us have the speed of the 1990's.  Such is aging.


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-21 Thread Bill Johnson
I think so.  Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 
hours.  But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and 
skills.  We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed 
neither of us have the speed of the 1990's.  Such is aging.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

https://wrj-tech.com/

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dauer, Edward
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 12:37 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

I wonder if 11 years is a record?


Ted, KN1CBR



On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition 
to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is 
other than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems 
if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that for me.  So I 
built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went 
along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already have 
one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>    To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and 
now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU 
to build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add 
in the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the 
completed K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo 
work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a 
solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear 
from other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to 
Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

2019-01-21 Thread gt-i

Bruce,
I built mine in 2001, and as far as I remember I had the same situation 
with the options. Since you have the options, sneak-preview into them 
and read what and how the parts have to be removed. Then you get an idea 
how to install them in a way you can removed them without putting harm 
to the main pcb. One obvious measure is to not push down the resistors 
or jumpers to the pcb, rather leave some space.

Happy building!
Gernot DF5RF K2 #2328 (+KAT,KBAT, KSB,KNB,KDSP,KXV60,K160RX,my own 
buffered IF-out with a Softrock RX Lite attached, my own Keyout)


Am 20.01.2019 um 19:32 schrieb Bruce McCartney via Elecraft:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

 From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce

GM4BDJ
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-21 Thread Dauer, Edward
I wonder if 11 years is a record?


Ted, KN1CBR



On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition 
to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is 
other than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems 
if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that for me.  So I 
built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went 
along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already have 
one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>    To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and 
now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU 
to build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add 
in the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the 
completed K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo 
work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a 
solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear 
from other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to 
Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
> __
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-21 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition to 
the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other 
> than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
> finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
> later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot 
> problems if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that 
> for me.  So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, 
> testing as I went along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
> which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already 
> have one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
> inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
> removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now 
> have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to 
> build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in 
> the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed 
> K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution 
> to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from 
> other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland 
> - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
> __
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[Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-21 Thread Dauer, Edward
   Hello Bruce --

I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other 
than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems 
if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that for me.  So I 
built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went 
along.  

The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - which 
you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already have one, 
buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are inexpensive 
and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is removed.  Hakko 
sells one for about 18 USD.

Ted, KN1CBR


--

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
From: Bruce McCartney 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now 
have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to 
build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in 
the options as completed? 

From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed 
K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution 
to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from 
other K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 
46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce 

GM4BDJ

--
   

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

2019-01-20 Thread Robert G Strickland

Bruce...
Congratulations! Don is the one to answer your specific question(s). I'm 
just glad for you and the fun you're about to have. It's just a great 
radio, and I'm sure that, in the end, you will be much more than 
satisfied with yourself and with the radio.


...robert

On 1/20/2019 18:32, Bruce McCartney via Elecraft wrote:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce

GM4BDJ
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--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

2019-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bruce,

Yes, build the K2 first - there is a point where the manual tells you 
that you can add such things as the Front Panel components for the KSB2, 
and headers for other options.  Do NOT attempt to add parts of the K60XV 
option until you have finished building and testing the basic K2.


There are not really many parts to remove - C167 for the KSB2 plus 2 
jumpers (which can be cut if you prefer.  For the K160RX only a jumper 
removal and the addition of 3 capacitors.  For the KNB2, one jumper and 
remove 3 resistors.  The KAF2 requires only 2 jumpers to be removed 
(those cannot be cut), and the K60XV requires only the removal and 
replacement of one capacitor.


You must have done something to expedite that order - UPS Ground 
delivery here in the US is usually 5 to 7 days unless it is to the same 
state or one adjacent where the delivery is next day to 3 days.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/20/2019 1:32 PM, Bruce McCartney via Elecraft wrote:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

 From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!



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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

2019-01-20 Thread Jim KO5V
Hi Bruce, 

You're gonna' love building this kit! I just finished my 3rd one, plus the 100 
W amp and tuner, and I have been having a lot of fun with it the last week or 
so.

Yes, you want to build the basic cw kit first, then add options but if you read 
the SSB kit's manual (and the others), it shows you where you can add a few 
components during the initial build, so a ton of rework isn't necessary when 
you want to add SSB. The rework eliminators were a nice addition, but not 
necessary. I used them on the first one, but not this time. I've finally 
finished and installed all of the K2's options, and there was no complicated 
rework for any of them - that was my experience, anyway.

There is great support on this list, and at least in my experience, nobody will 
criticize you for dumb questions - at least in public ;)

Enjoy, and don't be shy about asking for help.

73, Jim KO5V
Edgewood, NM


"I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.


My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed? 

From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce 

GM4BDJ"
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[Elecraft] New K2 build

2019-01-20 Thread Bruce McCartney via Elecraft
I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed? 

From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce 

GM4BDJ
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build.

2015-04-22 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I'm assuming you mean the epoxy that the cap is dipped in.
I've never removed it; I'm not sure but I think doing so may damage the sealing 
quality of the epoxy.






  From: Thomas Skinner tom.n...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 10:49 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build.
   
As I prepare to build my second k2, my mind drifts back to the hours I spent 
with the little ceramic caps.

 They all had the bonding material over flowing the lead shoulders.  I spent 
hours cleaning that hardened material off the leads before soldering them in 
place.

The QUESTION:

Did I need to remove the extra material or should I just have dropped them in 
and made sure they got soldered properly?

Tia, 

Tom, ng3v

Sent from my iPhone 6

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build.

2015-04-22 Thread Brian Denley
You should have soldered them in 'as is'.

Brian Denley
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 22, 2015, at 10:49 AM, Thomas Skinner tom.n...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 As I prepare to build my second k2, my mind drifts back to the hours I spent 
 with the little ceramic caps.
 
 They all had the bonding material over flowing the lead shoulders.  I spent 
 hours cleaning that hardened material off the leads before soldering them in 
 place.
 
 The QUESTION:
 
 Did I need to remove the extra material or should I just have dropped them in 
 and made sure they got soldered properly?
 
 Tia, 
 
 Tom, ng3v
 
 Sent from my iPhone 6
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build - encoder problem

2009-08-27 Thread dw
If you haven't already found the problem.
Another thing you can check is U2.
With the rig off, 3,4,5,6  11,12,13,14 should all read 100K ohms to VCC
pin(18)

With the rig on, these should all normally be at VCC voltage.
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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[Elecraft] New K2 build!

2008-09-22 Thread Michael Harvey

I am prepping to build another K2 and was wondering what rework eliminators to 
add.
 
I plan to add most options eventually. The K2 I currently use I did not build 
but the rework eliminators seem like a good investment.
 
Is there a kit including all the eliminators?
 
Thanks!
 
Mike
AB0TX
 
K2 #4841___
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build!

2008-09-22 Thread David Wilburn
With rework eliminators, you build headers (can be thought of as place 
holders), and add all needed components for the features you want.  Then 
when you decide to build the features, you just unplug the headers and 
plug in the new feature.  The alternative requires complete disassembly 
of the K2 along with the addition and removal of various components to 
add a new feature.  This comes into play more if you have a problem, or 
something breaks.  The feature that breaks can be unplugged and the 
header put back in place.  The phrase plug-and-play covers it pretty well.


David Wilburn
NM4M




Michael Harvey wrote:

I am prepping to build another K2 and was wondering what rework eliminators to 
add.
 
I plan to add most options eventually. The K2 I currently use I did not build but the rework eliminators seem like a good investment.
 
Is there a kit including all the eliminators?
 
Thanks!
 
Mike

AB0TX
 
K2 #4841___

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[Elecraft] New K2 build...

2007-07-21 Thread k2
Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?

Best Regards,
Steve
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RE: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

2007-07-21 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
RFC15 should be Brown-Black-Brown (100 uH). I believe the only component in
the K2 with the color code Green-Brown-Green is 5.1 Megohm resistor R116
that goes across L116 that you'll install shortly (page 60 of the rev G
manual). 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 10:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build...


Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase II
and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID is
RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with Brown-Black-Brown.
However, my sub miniature RF Choke is Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent
change that is not noted in the construction manual?

Best Regards,
Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

2007-07-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

Look more closely at the bands - I would bet it has a green body and you 
are confusing the color code bands with the body color.


A green - black - green RF choke would have a value of 5,,000 uH, 
and I don't believe that large an inductance would be practical in a 
choke of the size you have in hand.


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

2007-07-21 Thread k2
Hey Guys,

Thanks everyone for your help, you guys are quick. I found out that I
didn't get an errata sheet with my K2 and Elecraft has replaced the sub
miniature Chokes with larger ones. I guess some people were having
problems with how fragile the minis were. So, I was actually looking at
R116, the only sub mini left, it wasn't a choke at all.

Best Regards,
Steve

 Hello,

 I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
 II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
 is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
 Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
 Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
 construction manual?

 Best Regards,
 Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

2007-07-21 Thread sbm

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?


There is a change indeed.  I noted it for future building once I'm past 
correcting the build of my control board


Will
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...Missing R116, also

2007-07-21 Thread dking
I sent Steve this answer off list...but it also answers Clark's  
missing R116 question...so I'm posting it to the full list.


dk

Steve...I ran into this same issue with mine a couple of weeks ago and  
when I checked with Scott
at Elecraft parts, he said the small green/brown/green was R116 which  
goes across toroid

L33 in the BFO section (pg58).

I counted all my RF chokes and compared them to the parts list and  
found the parts count

showed a regular sized brown/black/brown so I used that.

I think they need to learn the difference between a miniature and  
sub-miniature!


Also, I couldn't get up to 6V on page 61, the VCO alignment stage...I  
would max out at
3.8 volts...and I had the windings correct on T-5, the correct part at  
C72 and the
correct value at L30...and when I asked and even sent a photo of the  
toriod, Gary said I
should try to squeezing the windings closer together (rather than  
leaving them uniformly
spread out to ensure 85% coverage of the toriod as they stress over  
and over)...I moved
them (pinched) closer and it immediately solved the problemthat  
little tip would be

nice to have show up somewhere in the book, also!

David King
KE7EKA


Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?

Best Regards,
Steve
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This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.


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