Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-30 Thread Vic K2VCO
This is s off topic, but I once worked in a carpentry shop where acetone was used to 
clean contact cement from veneer. On my first day at work, I sat down to eat lunch with my 
co-workers. After a few seconds, I suddenly felt like my butt was on fire! I jumped up to 
roars of laughter to find that one of the guys had put a rag that had traces of acetone on 
it on my chair.

I wonder if there are latent defects after all these years?

On 12/29/2012 11:16 AM, Fred Townsend wrote:

I have shut down production
lines because someone snuck acetone onto the line for cleaning. It doesn't
have to come in contact to damage plastics and other encapsulating materials
used for electronic parts. The vapors are enough to cause latent defects
that may take years to mature.


--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-29 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Ron,  

Great advice... Thank You!!!

73,
Bill
K9YEQ
K2 FT, KX1 FT, KX3 FT, KAT500 FT


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 1:09 PM
To: 'P.J.Hicks'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

Be careful with locktight. It   v-e-r-y   s-l-o-w-l-y   dissolves many
plastics.

Some years ago I applied some to a screw securing a plastic part and over
the next six months the plastic gradually disintegrated starting from the
point where I applied the Locktight. ! 
I now consider it for use ONLY on metal parts. 
Instead I borrow a trick from my post WWII aircraft service days: paint. A
drop of fingernail polish between the nut what it tightens against works
very well. If you don't want it visible, paint the threads with some and
then put the nut on over it, or paint the face of the nut that presses
against the fan with black fingernail polish (a common color nowadays :-)
and screw it in place before it dries. 
It's not so strong that you can't remove the nut, but it should prevent
loosening due to fan vibration. 
And then there's always lock washers.
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of P.J.Hicks


As long as we are talking screws I thought I'd mention a situation that
occurred last night. While moving my K3 to get at the rear panel I noticed
that one of the acorn nuts from one of the fans had fallen off. In checking
the rest of them I found them in various stages of looseness. I suspect that
the minor fan vibration caused them to loosen. I retightened them and plan
on adding a bit of locktight in the next few days. Just a heads up. 



PJ,  N7PXY

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-29 Thread Fred Townsend
Gentlemen: 
I have my doubts about acetone being used in nail polish but it's possible
some manufacturers are using it to cheapen their products. It's a poor
solvent for this purpose. However there is no doubt acetone is used in
almost every nail polish remover. I keep some in the medical cabinet to
unstick fingers bonded together with crazy glue. That being said acetone
should never be anywhere near any electronics. I have shut down production
lines because someone snuck acetone onto the line for cleaning. It doesn't
have to come in contact to damage plastics and other encapsulating materials
used for electronic parts. The vapors are enough to cause latent defects
that may take years to mature. It particularly damages polystyrene used in
some high stability capacitors. Wonder why your VFO drifts? It may be
because someone used acetone on it years before. If you must use a solvent
for cleaning, say flux, use isopropyl alcohol. 

Loctite is corrosive. Read the label. It is not recommended for some metals
or plastics. If you most use Loctite in electronics use the blue (mild)
colored product. Some Loctite is used for chemical welding and can never be
undone.

Glyptal is the favorite of the military, Collins, and FAA. However xylene
has been banned in electronics in many countries. Ever heard of glue
sniffing zombies? It does brain damage and it's a mild carcinogen. There may
be a xylene free Glyptal out there; I don't know. My bottle is 50 years old.
A little dab will do you if you keep the cap on tight.

None chemical means such as the formally mentioned Nyloc nuts or mechanical
locking hardware is the preferred technic for locking parts and they don't
void your warranty. (See Eric's earlier post on corrosionX.) 
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 5:37 PM
To: k2...@kanafi.org; 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

Fingernail polish uses acetone which, of course, will soften *some*
plastics, but unlike the solvent in Loctite, acetone evaporates completely
and the end result is quick-drying, chemically stable coating. 

Of course there is always Glyptal which uses xylene for its solvent. That,
too, will soften some plastics. But it, too, dries to a chemically stable
state, unlike Loctite.

I don't know what Loctite uses. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 3:42 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

On 12/28/2012 11:08 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Instead I borrow a trick from my post WWII aircraft service days:
 paint. A drop of fingernail polish between the nut what it tightens 
 against works very well. If you don't want it visible, paint the 
 threads with some and then put the nut on over it, or paint the face 
 of the nut that presses against the fan with black fingernail polish 
 (a common color nowadays :-) and screw it in place before it dries.
 
 It's not so strong that you can't remove the nut, but it should 
 prevent loosening due to fan vibration.
 
 And then there's always lock washers.

How much and what type of solvent does the fingernail polish carry as
compared to LockTite?

My preferred solution is to use nylon-insert stop nuts, which I learned
about when I worked at the Douglas Airplane Works for a brief time.  The
local ACE Hardware outlet carries them in all sizes.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402


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[Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread P.J.Hicks


As long as we are talking screws I thought I'd mention a situation that 
occurred last night. While moving my K3 to get at the rear panel I noticed that 
one of the acorn nuts from one of the fans had fallen off. In checking the rest 
of them I found them in various stages of looseness. I suspect that the minor 
fan vibration caused them to loosen. I retightened them and plan on adding a 
bit of locktight in the next few days. Just a heads up. 



PJ,  N7PXY
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Be careful with locktight. It   v-e-r-y   s-l-o-w-l-y   dissolves many plastics.

Some years ago I applied some to a screw securing a plastic part and over the 
next six months the plastic gradually disintegrated starting from the point 
where I applied the Locktight. ! 

I now consider it for use ONLY on metal parts. 

Instead I borrow a trick from my post WWII aircraft service days: paint. A drop 
of fingernail polish between the nut what it tightens against works very well. 
If you don't want it visible, paint the threads with some and then put the nut 
on over it, or paint the face of the nut that presses against the fan with 
black fingernail polish (a common color nowadays :-) and screw it in place 
before it dries. 

It's not so strong that you can't remove the nut, but it should prevent 
loosening due to fan vibration. 

And then there's always lock washers.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of P.J.Hicks
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 9:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw



As long as we are talking screws I thought I'd mention a situation that 
occurred last night. While moving my K3 to get at the rear panel I noticed that 
one of the acorn nuts from one of the fans had fallen off. In checking the rest 
of them I found them in various stages of looseness. I suspect that the minor 
fan vibration caused them to loosen. I retightened them and plan on adding a 
bit of locktight in the next few days. Just a heads up. 



PJ,  N7PXY
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Bayard Coolidge
Wow, that was interesting about the Locktite. I mentioned the issue
to my XYL to see if she'd seen any black fingernail polish, and she
wondered why clear polish (e.g., Sally's Beauty Supply Hard As Nails)
wouldn't be more feasible/desireable...



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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Scott
I have used teflon tape (type for plumbing) for this. It is thin so a few turns 
around a screw don't put much pressure on small parts but, even though it is 
slippery, it fills in microscopic imperfections so parts don't loosen by 
vibration. 
Scott AA0AA

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 28, 2012, at 12:08, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 Be careful with locktight. It   v-e-r-y   s-l-o-w-l-y   dissolves many 
 plastics.
 
 Some years ago I applied some to a screw securing a plastic part and over the 
 next six months the plastic gradually disintegrated starting from the point 
 where I applied the Locktight. ! 
 
 I now consider it for use ONLY on metal parts. 
 
 Instead I borrow a trick from my post WWII aircraft service days: paint. A 
 drop of fingernail polish between the nut what it tightens against works very 
 well. If you don't want it visible, paint the threads with some and then put 
 the nut on over it, or paint the face of the nut that presses against the fan 
 with black fingernail polish (a common color nowadays :-) and screw it in 
 place before it dries. 
 
 It's not so strong that you can't remove the nut, but it should prevent 
 loosening due to fan vibration. 
 
 And then there's always lock washers.
 
 73, Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of P.J.Hicks
 Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 9:19 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw
 
 
 
 As long as we are talking screws I thought I'd mention a situation that 
 occurred last night. While moving my K3 to get at the rear panel I noticed 
 that one of the acorn nuts from one of the fans had fallen off. In checking 
 the rest of them I found them in various stages of looseness. I suspect that 
 the minor fan vibration caused them to loosen. I retightened them and plan on 
 adding a bit of locktight in the next few days. Just a heads up. 
 
 
 
 PJ,  N7PXY
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
We traditionally used colored nail polish to match the special paint the
USAF used on hardware. I think the color was there to make it obvious that
the fasteners had been treated. I would expect clear would work as well,
although it will certainly be visible because it'll be glossy. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bayard Coolidge
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 11:52 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

Wow, that was interesting about the Locktite. I mentioned the issue to my
XYL to see if she'd seen any black fingernail polish, and she wondered why
clear polish (e.g., Sally's Beauty Supply Hard As Nails) wouldn't be more
feasible/desireable...



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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 28 Dec 2012 11:51:52 -0800 (PST), Bayard Coolidge wrote:

 I mentioned the issue
 to my XYL to see if she'd seen any black fingernail polish, and she
 wondered why clear polish (e.g., Sally's Beauty Supply Hard As Nails)
 wouldn't be more feasible/desireable...

I've used clear for decades.  Helps keep things where you put them. Most
all military stuff I used to work on had red or Glyptal on threads to
keep them tight.

Gary
-- 
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Phil Kane
On 12/28/2012 11:08 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Instead I borrow a trick from my post WWII aircraft service days:
 paint. A drop of fingernail polish between the nut what it tightens
 against works very well. If you don't want it visible, paint the
 threads with some and then put the nut on over it, or paint the face
 of the nut that presses against the fan with black fingernail polish
 (a common color nowadays :-) and screw it in place before it dries.
 
 It's not so strong that you can't remove the nut, but it should
 prevent loosening due to fan vibration.
 
 And then there's always lock washers.

How much and what type of solvent does the fingernail polish carry as
compared to LockTite?

My preferred solution is to use nylon-insert stop nuts, which I learned
about when I worked at the Douglas Airplane Works for a brief time.  The
local ACE Hardware outlet carries them in all sizes.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Fred Jensen
Fingernail polish smells like acetone, don't know about LockTite. 
Acetone and some plastics make a fairly big and unwelcome mess.


On 12/28/2012 3:41 PM, Phil Kane wrote:


How much and what type of solvent does the fingernail polish carry as
compared to LockTite?



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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fingernail polish uses acetone which, of course, will soften *some*
plastics, but unlike the solvent in Loctite, acetone evaporates completely
and the end result is quick-drying, chemically stable coating. 

Of course there is always Glyptal which uses xylene for its solvent. That,
too, will soften some plastics. But it, too, dries to a chemically stable
state, unlike Loctite.

I don't know what Loctite uses. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 3:42 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

On 12/28/2012 11:08 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Instead I borrow a trick from my post WWII aircraft service days:
 paint. A drop of fingernail polish between the nut what it tightens 
 against works very well. If you don't want it visible, paint the 
 threads with some and then put the nut on over it, or paint the face 
 of the nut that presses against the fan with black fingernail polish 
 (a common color nowadays :-) and screw it in place before it dries.
 
 It's not so strong that you can't remove the nut, but it should 
 prevent loosening due to fan vibration.
 
 And then there's always lock washers.

How much and what type of solvent does the fingernail polish carry as
compared to LockTite?

My preferred solution is to use nylon-insert stop nuts, which I learned
about when I worked at the Douglas Airplane Works for a brief time.  The
local ACE Hardware outlet carries them in all sizes.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402


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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Fred Smith
Don spoke the truth about screwdrivers you Must use the proper size for
what screw size your working on. The small sizes I buy 3 at a time and at
the first sign of a problem with them in the trash they go. This goes for
Phillips and common head or all other special ones.

I was taught this my very first year of Gun Smithing School working on guns.
Custom made guns and foreign made and many different screw head sizes and
even designs. In turn we had to make screwdrivers to match each of them so
that what your photo shows did not happen on a sometimes $25-30,000 custom
made shotgun. 

If you come across a screw that is stuck like that first off get a small
mallet and strike the screwdriver handle while holding it very straight and
tight against the screw. On a radio DO NOT strike it really hard but a few
taps will sometimes break loose a stubborn one for easy removal. But nothing
replaces the proper screwdriver to begin with.

73,
Fred/N0AZZ 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 5:15 PM
To: Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

Fabio,

That screw in into a 2D connector.
You will be able to remove the front panel by removing the other 2 screws in
the 2D connector, and then you should be able to rotate the 2D connector
body in a direction that will loosen the screw threads.  
Elecraft does have replacement screws.  You do not have to purchase the SS
kit, just order by the part number listed in the assembly manual - you can
order one or any multiple you want.

The proper size screwdriver is a #1 Phillips which should be available
worldwide.  Do not use a worn Phillips screwdriver, it is certain to slip
and strip out the screwhead.  If you have had trouble, I suggest you invest
in a new screwdriver.

I use my #1 Phillips more than most in my Elecraft repair activities, but if
I find my screwdriver does not firmly hold a screw when the screwdriver
shaft is held horizontally, that tip is worn sufficiently that it should be
replaced.  I do not want to strip out the screwheads on my customer's
equipment.  In other words, do not use worn screwdriver tips and all should
be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2012 5:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:
 Hi guys,
today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my 
 beloved K3.
 My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
 Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A 
 board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.

 Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably 
 overtightened (or defective).
 I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers 
 (little and big), to no avail.
 The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
 1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
 2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at
 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmy
 PJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)

 I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws 
 more, but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
 Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about 
 drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the 
 community...
 Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit 
 available (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?

 As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very 
 soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Barry
I have found Screw Grab helpful for situations like this:
http://www.screwgrab.com/screwgrab.html

Barry W2UP



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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Sorry you had trouble Fabio. Recall that this instruction was included in
the installation instructions for the KXV3A board:

Whenever you remove screws from a panel, if one screw seems too tight to
loosen
without damaging it, first loosen the other screws and then try again.
Sometimes one screw
binds in its hole when the other screws are tightened.

That may save you trouble if you open up your K3 again. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 2:47 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

Hi guys,
today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my
beloved K3.
My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A board;
so, I never unassembled the front panel before.

Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably
overtightened (or defective).
I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers (little and
big), to no avail.
The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmyPJy0li
ipFm0?feat=directlink)

I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws more, but
I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about
drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the
community...
Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit available (I
don't need the stainless steel ones)?

As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very
soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).

Thanks in advance for your suggestions,
73 Ciao
Fabio
  IZ4AFW - NZ1W - HI9/IZ4AFW
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Tom H Childers

Good advice Don.

Another thing that will destroy Phillips head screws is the use of a
reed and prince screw driver, so verify that you are REALY using a
Phillips screw driver.

The very tip of a Phillips screw driver is blunt, not sharp, but a
reed and prince screw driver (which looks very much like a Phillips)
is sharp on the tip and will not seat completely in a Phillips screw,
thus slipping and destroying the socket.

Beware when buying inexpensive screw drivers that are call Phillips
screw drivers.  Check the tip and make sure it's not sharp.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:15:05 -0500, Don Wilhelm
w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

Fabio,

That screw in into a 2D connector.
You will be able to remove the front panel by removing the other 2 
screws in the 2D connector, and then you should be able to rotate the 2D 
connector body in a direction that will loosen the screw threads.  
Elecraft does have replacement screws.  You do not have to purchase the 
SS kit, just order by the part number listed in the assembly manual - 
you can order one or any multiple you want.

The proper size screwdriver is a #1 Phillips which should be available 
worldwide.  Do not use a worn Phillips screwdriver, it is certain to 
slip and strip out the screwhead.  If you have had trouble, I suggest 
you invest in a new screwdriver.

I use my #1 Phillips more than most in my Elecraft repair activities, 
but if I find my screwdriver does not firmly hold a screw when the 
screwdriver shaft is held horizontally, that tip is worn sufficiently 
that it should be replaced.  I do not want to strip out the screwheads 
on my customer's equipment.  In other words, do not use worn screwdriver 
tips and all should be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2012 5:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:
 Hi guys,
today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my 
 beloved K3.
 My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
 Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A 
 board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.

 Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably 
 overtightened (or defective).
 I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers 
 (little and big), to no avail.
 The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
 1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
 2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at 
 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)

 I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws 
 more, but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
 Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about 
 drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the 
 community...
 Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit 
 available (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?

 As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very 
 soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).

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73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Ian White GM3SEK


In Europe, make sure you are not using a Pozidriv screwdriver.

A Pozidriv #1 screwdriver will kind-of work with the Phillips screws in 
the K3... right up to the moment when a screw gets stuck. Beyond that 
moment, a Pozidriv screwdriver is very likely to do damage.


Even with a good-quality Phillips #1 driver, my 700-series K3 is now on 
its second set of case screws. The originals were worn out by opening up 
the K3 to show it to people :-)



73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek


Tom H Childers wrote:


Good advice Don.

Another thing that will destroy Phillips head screws is the use of a
reed and prince screw driver, so verify that you are REALY using a
Phillips screw driver.

The very tip of a Phillips screw driver is blunt, not sharp, but a
reed and prince screw driver (which looks very much like a Phillips)
is sharp on the tip and will not seat completely in a Phillips screw,
thus slipping and destroying the socket.

Beware when buying inexpensive screw drivers that are call Phillips
screw drivers.  Check the tip and make sure it's not sharp.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:15:05 -0500, Don Wilhelm
w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Fabio,

That screw in into a 2D connector.
You will be able to remove the front panel by removing the other 2
screws in the 2D connector, and then you should be able to rotate the 2D
connector body in a direction that will loosen the screw threads.
Elecraft does have replacement screws.  You do not have to purchase the
SS kit, just order by the part number listed in the assembly manual -
you can order one or any multiple you want.

The proper size screwdriver is a #1 Phillips which should be available
worldwide.  Do not use a worn Phillips screwdriver, it is certain to
slip and strip out the screwhead.  If you have had trouble, I suggest
you invest in a new screwdriver.

I use my #1 Phillips more than most in my Elecraft repair activities,
but if I find my screwdriver does not firmly hold a screw when the
screwdriver shaft is held horizontally, that tip is worn sufficiently
that it should be replaced.  I do not want to strip out the screwheads
on my customer's equipment.  In other words, do not use worn screwdriver
tips and all should be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2012 5:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Hi guys,
   today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my
beloved K3.
My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A
board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.

Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably
overtightened (or defective).
I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers
(little and big), to no avail.
The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmy
PJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)

I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws
more, but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about
drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the
community...
Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit
available (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?

As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very
soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).




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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-717-1197

I found that JIS bits fit the screws really well.
What bits do they use at Elecraft for assembly?

73, doug


On 27-Dec-12 17:21, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:


In Europe, make sure you are not using a Pozidriv screwdriver.

A Pozidriv #1 screwdriver will kind-of work with the Phillips screws in
the K3... right up to the moment when a screw gets stuck. Beyond that
moment, a Pozidriv screwdriver is very likely to do damage.

Even with a good-quality Phillips #1 driver, my 700-series K3 is now on
its second set of case screws. The originals were worn out by opening up
the K3 to show it to people :-)


73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek


Tom H Childers wrote:


Good advice Don.

Another thing that will destroy Phillips head screws is the use of a
reed and prince screw driver, so verify that you are REALY using a
Phillips screw driver.

The very tip of a Phillips screw driver is blunt, not sharp, but a
reed and prince screw driver (which looks very much like a Phillips)
is sharp on the tip and will not seat completely in a Phillips screw,
thus slipping and destroying the socket.

Beware when buying inexpensive screw drivers that are call Phillips
screw drivers.  Check the tip and make sure it's not sharp.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:15:05 -0500, Don Wilhelm
w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Fabio,

That screw in into a 2D connector.
You will be able to remove the front panel by removing the other 2
screws in the 2D connector, and then you should be able to rotate the 2D
connector body in a direction that will loosen the screw threads.
Elecraft does have replacement screws.  You do not have to purchase the
SS kit, just order by the part number listed in the assembly manual -
you can order one or any multiple you want.

The proper size screwdriver is a #1 Phillips which should be available
worldwide.  Do not use a worn Phillips screwdriver, it is certain to
slip and strip out the screwhead.  If you have had trouble, I suggest
you invest in a new screwdriver.

I use my #1 Phillips more than most in my Elecraft repair activities,
but if I find my screwdriver does not firmly hold a screw when the
screwdriver shaft is held horizontally, that tip is worn sufficiently
that it should be replaced.  I do not want to strip out the screwheads
on my customer's equipment.  In other words, do not use worn screwdriver
tips and all should be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2012 5:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Hi guys,
   today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my
beloved K3.
My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A
board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.

Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably
overtightened (or defective).
I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers
(little and big), to no avail.
The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmy
PJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)

I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws
more, but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about
drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the
community...
Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit
available (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?

As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very
soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).





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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-27 Thread Ken Chandler
What your looking for perhaps is the stainless steel screw sets available, 
these will probably withstand the harsh treatment you guys are handing out to 
the screws.

Ken..G0ORH - M3i

Sent from my iPhone 4
 
CW4EVER 


On 27 Dec 2012, at 19:13, Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-717-1197 fa...@panix.com 
wrote:

I found that JIS bits fit the screws really well.
What bits do they use at Elecraft for assembly?

73, doug


On 27-Dec-12 17:21, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
 
 In Europe, make sure you are not using a Pozidriv screwdriver.
 
 A Pozidriv #1 screwdriver will kind-of work with the Phillips screws in
 the K3... right up to the moment when a screw gets stuck. Beyond that
 moment, a Pozidriv screwdriver is very likely to do damage.
 
 Even with a good-quality Phillips #1 driver, my 700-series K3 is now on
 its second set of case screws. The originals were worn out by opening up
 the K3 to show it to people :-)
 
 
 73 from Ian GM3SEK
 http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
 
 
 Tom H Childers wrote:
 
 Good advice Don.
 
 Another thing that will destroy Phillips head screws is the use of a
 reed and prince screw driver, so verify that you are REALY using a
 Phillips screw driver.
 
 The very tip of a Phillips screw driver is blunt, not sharp, but a
 reed and prince screw driver (which looks very much like a Phillips)
 is sharp on the tip and will not seat completely in a Phillips screw,
 thus slipping and destroying the socket.
 
 Beware when buying inexpensive screw drivers that are call Phillips
 screw drivers.  Check the tip and make sure it's not sharp.
 
 73,
 Tom
 Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
 ARRL Lifetime Member
 QCWA Lifetime Member
 
 On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:15:05 -0500, Don Wilhelm
 w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Fabio,
 
 That screw in into a 2D connector.
 You will be able to remove the front panel by removing the other 2
 screws in the 2D connector, and then you should be able to rotate the 2D
 connector body in a direction that will loosen the screw threads.
 Elecraft does have replacement screws.  You do not have to purchase the
 SS kit, just order by the part number listed in the assembly manual -
 you can order one or any multiple you want.
 
 The proper size screwdriver is a #1 Phillips which should be available
 worldwide.  Do not use a worn Phillips screwdriver, it is certain to
 slip and strip out the screwhead.  If you have had trouble, I suggest
 you invest in a new screwdriver.
 
 I use my #1 Phillips more than most in my Elecraft repair activities,
 but if I find my screwdriver does not firmly hold a screw when the
 screwdriver shaft is held horizontally, that tip is worn sufficiently
 that it should be replaced.  I do not want to strip out the screwheads
 on my customer's equipment.  In other words, do not use worn screwdriver
 tips and all should be well.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 12/26/2012 5:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:
 Hi guys,
   today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my
 beloved K3.
 My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
 Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A
 board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.
 
 Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably
 overtightened (or defective).
 I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers
 (little and big), to no avail.
 The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
 1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
 2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at
 
 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmy
 PJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
 
 I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws
 more, but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
 Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about
 drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the
 community...
 Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit
 available (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?
 
 As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very
 soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).
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[Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-26 Thread Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W

Hi guys,
   today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my 
beloved K3.

My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A 
board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.


Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably 
overtightened (or defective).
I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers (little 
and big), to no avail.

The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at 
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)


I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws more, 
but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about 
drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the 
community...
Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit available 
(I don't need the stainless steel ones)?


As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very 
soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).


Thanks in advance for your suggestions,
73 Ciao
Fabio
 IZ4AFW - NZ1W - HI9/IZ4AFW
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fabio,

That screw in into a 2D connector.
You will be able to remove the front panel by removing the other 2 
screws in the 2D connector, and then you should be able to rotate the 2D 
connector body in a direction that will loosen the screw threads.  
Elecraft does have replacement screws.  You do not have to purchase the 
SS kit, just order by the part number listed in the assembly manual - 
you can order one or any multiple you want.


The proper size screwdriver is a #1 Phillips which should be available 
worldwide.  Do not use a worn Phillips screwdriver, it is certain to 
slip and strip out the screwhead.  If you have had trouble, I suggest 
you invest in a new screwdriver.


I use my #1 Phillips more than most in my Elecraft repair activities, 
but if I find my screwdriver does not firmly hold a screw when the 
screwdriver shaft is held horizontally, that tip is worn sufficiently 
that it should be replaced.  I do not want to strip out the screwheads 
on my customer's equipment.  In other words, do not use worn screwdriver 
tips and all should be well.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/26/2012 5:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Hi guys,
   today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my 
beloved K3.

My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A 
board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.


Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably 
overtightened (or defective).
I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers 
(little and big), to no avail.

The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at 
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)


I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws 
more, but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about 
drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the 
community...
Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit 
available (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?


As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very 
soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).


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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-26 Thread Tony Estep
On Wed, Dec 26, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W iz4...@iz4afw.orgwrote:

 ...2) now the screw head is damaged...

===
Fabio, I did this on my K3 the first day I got it. The solution provided by
the Elecraft service stars was to take off the side panel and take all the
other screws out of the little corner joiner. Then you can get the panel
off, and even if damaged the screw will come out of the joiner okay.

Tony KT0NY


-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw - suggestions needed

2012-12-26 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Fabio,

I think I can help you. I had exactly the same problem and posted this
message some time ago:

I wanted to share a very successful procedure to remove one of the flat head
4-40 cover screws from my K3. The screw head was damaged beyond use. There
was a long thread on the subject last year and one poster suggested using a
left hand drill bit. I purchased a 3/32 left hand bit, chucked it into my
hand drill, masked off the screw to avoid any cover damage, drilled very
slowly, and 5 seconds later the drill bit with the entire screw was in my
hands. The threads of the 2-D fastener were totally undamaged and a new
screw was easily put into place. My thanks to the poster that made the
recommendation.

73,
Mike K2MK


Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote
 Hi guys,
 today I decided to try to apply a mod (Audio Low Pass filter) to my 
 beloved K3.
 My K3 was born in September, 2009 and I bought it factory assembled.
 Up till now, I just added a couple of additional filters and the KV3A 
 board; so, I never unassembled the front panel before.
 
 Today I found that one of the upper front panel screws was probably 
 overtightened (or defective).
 I tried to unscrew the screw with several phillips screwdrivers (little 
 and big), to no avail.
 The side effect of my (unsuccessful) tentatives was that:
 1) I was not able to unscrew the screw
 2) now the screw head is damaged (see pic at 
 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V1aTCoSq5qkgs3y-beE_DdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink)
 
 I got to unassemble the front panel unscrewing a couple of screws more, 
 but I'd like to solve this little problem (moreover, it's ugly).
 Before going with some more destructive methods (I am thinking about 
 drilling the screw??), I'd like to have some savy suggestion from the 
 community...
 Moreover, do you know if Elecraft has an additional screw kit available 
 (I don't need the stainless steel ones)?
 
 As a side note, I found that almost all the flat-head screws were very 
 soft and damage-prone (differently from the other round-head screws).
 
 Thanks in advance for your suggestions,
 73 Ciao
 Fabio
   IZ4AFW - NZ1W - HI9/IZ4AFW





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