Re: [Elecraft] FW: Building Advice Wanted

2006-01-13 Thread Dave G3VGR
You may wish to consider the rework eliminators  from WB2ART/KI4GGX 
(see  http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs/ )
That will save you having to remove some links  a capacitor when 
installing the KSB2, K160RX, KDSP2

73, Dave G3VGR
K2/100  #4783

Solosko, Robert B (Bob) wrote:
Hello - 


My K2 kit is in the mail and is expected to arrive next week. I ordered 
the K2, KSB2 and K160RX, so I'll be building those right away. Eventually I 
plan to add the KDSP2 and KPA100. It appears that all of these add-ons require 
some modifications to the basic K2. What should I do, or not do, when building 
the K2 to make it easier and to avoid problems when I need to modify it for the 
add-ons? All advise and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

Bob Solosko
W1SRB


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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Building Advice Wanted

2006-01-13 Thread Larry Phipps


You might want to look at the unpcbs that Gary, KI4GGX sells. His 
webpage is


http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs/

The unpcbs are installed at the time of construction, and make all 
future upgrades a plug-and-play deal. The advantages are that you don't 
have to rework the board to add options (unsolder things), and it also 
makes troubleshooting easier since you can unplug an option and plug 
it's unpcb counerpart in instead, making it easy to narrow down problem 
areas.


He has obviously spent a lot of time on the documentation, and the price 
is very reasonable for a full set of unpcbs.


73,
Larry N8LP



Solosko, Robert B (Bob) wrote:

Hello - 


My K2 kit is in the mail and is expected to arrive next week. I ordered 
the K2, KSB2 and K160RX, so I'll be building those right away. Eventually I 
plan to add the KDSP2 and KPA100. It appears that all of these add-ons require 
some modifications to the basic K2. What should I do, or not do, when building 
the K2 to make it easier and to avoid problems when I need to modify it for the 
add-ons? All advise and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

Bob Solosko
W1SRB
   


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RE: [Elecraft] FW: Building Advice Wanted

2006-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

Do exactly like the manual states unless you have done it before and know
the pitfalls of taking shortcuts (and more importantly, recognize when one
of those shortcuts 'slaps you in the face').  Most of the option
installation do not require 'rework' as in removing and adding components,
but they do require the addition of headers, standoffs and the removal of
jumpers that were previously installed - the removal of C167 from the RF
Board when adding the KSB2 is one exception and the KNB2 needs the removal
of 3 resistors in the 5 dB pad location.

The K2 manual has a section which instructs you when to add which pieces of
the option set you will have in hand.  If you are ordering the KPA100 later,
it would be nice to acquire one of the headers for the AUX RF (Elecraft PN
E620012 or DigiKey WM5224-ND) normally supplied with the KPA100 and solder
it in place so you do not have to remove the heat sink when adding the
KPA100.  (there are 2 such connectors, but the AUX 12V can be installed
without removing the heat sink).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

  Hello -
 
  My K2 kit is in the mail and is expected to arrive next
 week. I ordered the K2, KSB2 and K160RX, so I'll be building
 those right away. Eventually I plan to add the KDSP2 and KPA100.
 It appears that all of these add-ons require some modifications
 to the basic K2. What should I do, or not do, when building the
 K2 to make it easier and to avoid problems when I need to modify
 it for the add-ons? All advise and suggestions are welcome.
 
  Thanks.
 
  Bob Solosko
  W1SRB


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RE: [Elecraft] FW: Building Advice Wanted

2006-01-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Bob W1SRB wrote:
   My K2 kit is in the mail and is expected to arrive next week. I 
 ordered the K2, KSB2 and K160RX, so I'll be building those right away. 
 Eventually I plan to add the KDSP2 and KPA100. It appears that all of 
 these add-ons require some modifications to the basic K2. What should 
 I do, or not do, when building the K2 to make it easier and to avoid 
 problems when I need to modify it for the add-ons? All advise and 
 suggestions are welcome.

--

The K2 was designed to be modular and to be added to as you see fit. To add
modules, there are a few jumpers to cut or remove, in one case a cap to
remove (that moves signal across the place where a module would be if you
had it installed), etc, and you install the appropriate jacks to accept the
new module.

For me it was absolutely a non-issue and a no-brainer to add the modules one
at a time.

That said, there are at least some builders who found it onerous to remove
the screws in some places and remove jumpers in others. Some guys developed
a set of special plugs that you can put into the sockets for the add-on
modules to jumper the proper circuits until you add the module. They call
them rework eliminators. Others here can give you the scoop on them. 

The biggest value in those I would think would be for troubleshooting to
allow you to pull modules and see if a problem goes away, but that's not
been an issue for me (no troubleshooting yet on ol' 1289 now going on six
years old!). 

That said, it's an excellent idea to build the basic K2 and do all the
testing and alignment, then add the modules one at a time, doing all the
tests and checks for each one, one at a time, as you go. That way if you do
make a mistake you will find it the moment you add the new module, and
you'll know where to look. 

Ron AC7AC 

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