[Elecraft] please be considered - postings to the reflector

2007-10-13 Thread Andrey Stoev
Guys,

 

I would like to ask everybody to be a little bit considered when starting new 
threads on the reflector!

Please use a convention which would allow for automatic sorting of the emails 
by the email client - it is very easy and it doesn't require much effort! 

For instance, please insert in the beginning of your email subject line the 
elecraft product which is actually the subject of the thread. Something like 
this: "K2 - Question about the IF amp alignment" or "K3 - shipping dates?" or 
"K2, K3 : Performance comparison"

This will help everybody to organize hundreds of emails per day coming from 
this reflector.

Please understand - there are many people out there that are interested only in 
a specific product and it is very hard to manually sort thru all of the emails.

With the release of the K3 the reflector became very busy but not everybody is 
interested in K3 (for instance I have no interest whatsoever in the K3 but I 
would like to read all of the K2 posts, the XV posts, KAT/KPA, etc). 

If everybody is using such Subject line convention it would be very easy to 
setup email rules so for instance all of the emails regarding K2 are moved to 
the corresponding K2 folder and all of the K3 post are moved to the K3 folder 
or Trash folder, the XV posts will go to the XV folder, etc. I am sure 
everybody will benefit from a little bit more organized traffic on the 
refflector.

Thanks in advance!


73
de Andrey, AE1Z
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Re: [Elecraft] please be considered - postings to the reflector

2007-10-14 Thread Andrey Stoev



Guess you missed the directive from Wayne/Eric earlier in the week
saying the same thing.


Sorry...I aplogize to everybody for the QRM than (I hope it is lost in the 
already high noise floor caused by the "K3 shipping status" subject)...I 
guess I did miss it, trying to sort  the 30+ emails per day coming from the 
reflectror just by reading the subject lines... (and I can't read all of the 
emails the same day btw. so if I miss just a few days than I have well over 
a hundred emails to soft thru - that's why I politely asked everybody to 
assist an automated sorting.


73,
de Andrey, AE1Z 


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Software for Learning Morse Code

2007-10-19 Thread Andrey Stoev

This one is pretty good too - http://justlearnmorsecode.com/

73
AE1Z
- Original Message - 
From: "Corboy-Poteet" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 1:08 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Software for Learning Morse Code



A friend of mine recently retired and has expressed a desire to learn
code (International Morse). I hope that someone on this list may have
taught code as part of an Amateur Radio class and will have a
suggestion of a good software package that my friend could use.

MikeW5FTD



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[Elecraft] KPA800 / KPA1500: status update?

2007-10-29 Thread Andrey Stoev
I guess this is a question for Wayne and Eric.
I am on the market for a linear amp and I would love to buy an Elecraft amp 
instead of Tokyo Hi-Power for instance. I am not in a terrible rush but I would 
really like to do it in the next 3 to 6 months. I was wondering if there is any 
progress with the KPA 800 and KPA 1500 and what is the rough estimated time of 
release for those amps? Any chance for one of those models to out by ... lets 
say April - May? Just want to know so I can make a decision what and when to 
buy - no sense for me to wait with the amp if the Elecraft models are not very 
close to turn from prototype to a real product.
Thanks in advance!!

73
de Andrey AE1Z
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Re: [Elecraft] Anyone using DeoxIT Gold?

2007-11-11 Thread Andrey Stoev
I am uing both DeoxIt and ProGold products and they are simply excellent!!! 
ProGold is perfect for Bird 43 slugs too! It also lubricates the slug in the 
directinal coupler! I use the standard DeoxIt on all of my RF connectors and 
my RF patch bay as wel as Mic connectors, phone and paddle jacks etc. It 
slows down the tarnishing process on any silver plated connector!
You can buy a smal combo pack of  ProGold and DeoxIt from Radio Shack (at 
least here in New England RS carries it)


73,

de Andrey, AE1Z 


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer

2007-03-13 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hi,

Take a look at Palstar ZM30 (http://www.palstar.com/zm30.php).
IMHO it is a pretty good analyzer. Check also the reviews at eham.net for 
more details on the performance!


73 


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[Elecraft] Looking for a scan of the front panel (faceplate)

2005-10-18 Thread Andrey Stoev
Hey guys,

While at the scanning topic, I am looking for a HQ 300 dpi scan of the 
faceplate of an unbilt K2. (pretty much what Tom needs but on the front of the 
K2).
Any help will be greatly appreciated!

73s
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer

2005-11-13 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hi,

If you consider yourself as "lucky" you can try the MFJ - it's a good idea 
as product but very slopy execution and on the top of everything seems there 
is no QC at the factory whatsoever - you might get a good unit but you might 
get pure junk as well!
A good choice (and just a bit more expensive) would be Palstar ZM30 - 
http://www.palstar.com/zm30.php - i think its a much better product then the 
mfj - well built, upgradeable firmware, VFO, PC interface, etc.

Hope this helps!

73s




Hello All,

I've decided that before I get too carried away with
antenna experiments (mag loops, etc.), it would
probably be a good idea to get an antenna analyzer.

Anyone have a favorite they would like to recommend?
I'm leaning toward the Micro908 from the American QRP
Club.   Anyone want to talk me into an MFJ or another
brand?

Too bad Elecraft doesn't offer one.  I would love to
see them do for antenna analyzers what they did for
antenna tuners with the T1.

Regard,

Kurt - ae6uj

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Glitch on Field Day

2007-06-27 Thread Andrey Stoev
In the same Physics 101 class they teach that black painted objects radiate 
heat better - one reason why the anode of a  tube and also heatsinks are 
black.
The black painted box of the K3 will dissipate the internally generated heat 
better.
I personally preffer the grey color of the K2. To me it looks better and 
gives a unique look like no other radio. When I asked Wayne at Dayton about 
K3's color he said that he thinks black looks better and that's why KX1 is 
black as it is the K3.
Anyway...I miss the gray look - maybe I can make a silk screen of the front 
panel and repaint the K3 once I get it in Grey. :-))

73
AE1Z

- Original Message - 
From: "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Glitch on Field Day



If anyone remembers their Physics 101 "Painted Tin
Can" experiment - one painted light, and one painted
dark - the K3 will naturally be an internally hot
rig, on field days.  In Physics 101 class - the
can painted black - took on like 20% more internal
heat, than did the can painted light. Heat
reflectivity, and all that .   Reason we
wear white T-shirts, etc.

Fred




Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. 
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

http://sims.yahoo.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] How do I unsubscribe?

2007-09-12 Thread Andrey Stoev
I think the whole reflector became too "heavy" with the introduction of the 
K3. It is difficult for me to keep track of what's going on, especially 
given the fact that I have no interest in K3 at this point. Eric and Wayne 
stated numerous times that they like to keep "the momentum" and don't want 
to split the reflector into different products but it is going to get even 
worse, once the amplifiers come to the scene. Now I have to sort thru 
hundreds of posts each month just to read only those posted about the K2.


If a specific word like the product name is included in the subject line I 
can have my mail client sort the mails for me into different mailboxes. For 
instance all the mails regarding K2 could start with "K2" in the subject, 
same for K3, etc. Then how do you make thousands of users to follow such 
naming convention?



73
AE1Z

- Original Message - 
From: "Julian G4ILO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "elecraft" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 3:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do I unsubscribe?



James,

Instead of unsubscribing altogether you could open a free GMail
account and change your subscription to that address. That way you
won't fill up your local mailbox with reflector messages. GMail has a
clever filtering system that allows you to select any messages based
on their content. I use it to highlight K3 related postings and
anything from Wayne or Eric, so I can ignore the rest.

I am one of the folks who in the past has suggested a web forum with
sub-boards for each Elecraft product (plus a general topic for the
off-topic chatter.) But there has been so much resistance to the idea
(not least from Elecraft themselves) that I don't think it will ever
happen. Although I predict the situation will get worse when the K3s
actually ship and we all start posting "Hooray, it's here" followed by
"How do you do this?" and then "Wow, what a great radio!"

--
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Ham-Directory: www.ham-directory.com


On 9/11/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hello,
I would like to know how to unsubscribe to this list. With easily well
over 100 emails average per day from this mailing list I find myself
deleting 99 percent of it (unless I have a problem with my K2.. but
it's been flawless for a long time now). This reflector is a great
resource for repairs, advice and seeking help but lately I have seen
more ratings, opinions and reviews of equipment which if I want to
see.. I'll go find it for myself. Someone suggested a while back moving
to a forum based system to ease the amount of email flowing in the
inbox and would allow you to go look at items that only interest you (I
have a K2 and some mini-modules..). I think it's a great idea to move
to a forum based system but that's only my opinion..and opinions are
like.. well you know the rest. I get far too many emails a day and just
find myself having to maintain my inbox by deleting all the elecraft
mails. Often if I don't check my mailbox for a few days I find hundreds
upon hundreds of elecraft emails to go through. Unfortunately I still
use crappy AOL for my email so I can't use it with outlook that has
nice sorting features. That would make deleting the emails even easier
(sorry, I just don't have time to go through 100+ emails a day. It's
overwhelming at this point. I'm sorry, but I have to leave this mailing
list.

Any information how to remove myself from the list would be greatly
appreciated.

73,

James KB2FCV

Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Schematics?

2007-09-26 Thread Andrey Stoev
Looks like I am not the only one who is interested in the schematics and the 
block diagrams - evrybody is saying how great K3 would be but why we cant 
see any schematics in the manual and make our own conclusions? What is the 
deal with the schematics - are they not public? cant belive they are not 
finalized already...hmm this doesnt fit with the spirit of  my beloved K2 
and the kit-building...


73
AE1Z

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 8:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Schematics?



Hi Everybody!
The "Lets build it" manual was great but the schematics are missing :^(

73's Bob K7HBG


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 Front Panel Extension, K2/PC

2006-08-30 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hey guys,



here are some thoughts about a front panel extension:



There is a special type PC out there called Mini-ITX ( also is known as 
CarPC) - this type PC is extremely small in size, some models are powered 
with 12V DC and in some solid state media (CF card) is used instead of a 
hard drive.


There are models which are even fanless.

Here are few links:

http://www.mini-itx.com/

http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.101/.f

http://minipc.aopen.com/Global/





Perhaps an enclosure can be made, something like a "docking station" where 
K2 will be installed along the side of such MiniPC. The actual front panel 
of the K2 will be fully accessible and next to it a 7 or 8 inch Touch-screen 
LCD will be showing the Ham Radio Deluxe interface. Griffin PowerMate will 
take care of the VFO control for added convenience.


I think HRD + touch-screen LCD will make a nice virtual control panel with 
all of the buttons needed, and the overall dimensions of such combo will not 
exceed the standard rack-mountable form factor.




One can also use touch screen LCD with an existing PC - there are many 
models of  7-8-10 inches touch screens for car installations which will do 
nice job. ( http://www.avdeals.com/xenarclcdmain.htm )




Another way to do it is with the so-called Tablet PCs - there are many 
models available even on ebay - some used ones are very inexpensive. That 
way an all-in-one virtual control panel interface utilizing HRD can be used 
with different rigs.




73s

KB1FZA

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 display line

2006-10-24 Thread Andrey Stoev
I think this is done on purpose as part of the design. In most cases the 
radio is placed on a desk and the operator looks down at the radio. Under 
such condition if the display is perfectly align then the top edge of the 
front panel display opening will obstruct the top portion of the LCD. (the 
actual LCD is recessed in the front panel). It will appear like the top edge 
is "touching" the numbers of the LCD. Depends on the angle it could be a 
pretty annoying effect. By lowering a little bit the LCD in the display 
opening, the designer compensates for the recessed display. As a side effect 
when you look straight at the faceplate or the radio sits above your normal 
line of sight, you can see a small "gap". This is completely normal! (note 
how small is the space between the top segments and the actual edge of the 
LCD. On other radios with bigger screens this is not a problem since they 
have a lot of "padding" around the actual display elements.


Just shows that Wayne and Eric thought of everything while designing the 
radio!




Btw.  My radio also has this feature and nothing is wrong with the way my 
display board is mounted in the front panel.


Hope this helps!

73s

- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Carpenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "elecraft list" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 7:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 display line


I took my K2 (5703) to the lake cabin last week and noticed that the 
display has a line that slants down across the top from left to right.  I 
sit much lower in relation to the rig there than here at home so I had not 
seen it before.  At first I thought the display had moved but of course 
it's held in place very well so that wasn't it.  Do I have a problem or is 
this normal?


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[Elecraft] LCD Voltmeter mod for KPA100/KAT100 in EC2

2005-04-30 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hey guys,



Recently somebody was nice enough to post information about some LCD front 
panel meters he found on internet (Thanks!!!). I thought that such meters 
will be a nice addition to my KPA/KAT in EC2.


The front panel looks empty and it is only occupied by the LED indicators at 
the bottom so there is a plenty of space. I got two meters from Martel 
Electronics - QM-100V  (voltmeter 4 - 25V) and QM-110T (thermometer with 
internal and external sensors, Fahrenheit or Celsius). The voltmeter shows 
the voltage of the main supply and the thermometer shows the temperature of 
the heatsink. The LCD meters are very nice and quick to install (just a 5mm 
hole is needed). They are pretty accurate too - dead on with my recently 
calibrated Fluke. Both meters can be calibrated if needed. The thermometer 
can show the external temperature from a sensor which I installed on the 
heatsink or the internal temperature from a build-in sensor. Both sensors 
can be calibrated if needed (small adjustment screws on the back of the 
meter). I left also space for future addition of an amp-meter, but it will 
require pretty big shunt, which I might install in a separate box outside of 
the EC2. I used different computer connectors (from an old motherboard) so 
everything can be plugged or unplugged easy should I decide to move the 
KPA100 into my K2. There is also a jumper on the back of the front panel to 
switch the thermometer between F and C and EXT/INT sensor).


The voltmeter is also very useful with an adjustable power supply to get the 
exact voltage for charging the SLA battery in K2


Here are some pictures - (sorry, didn't have time to write a HTML).

http://pages.cthome.net/itv/KPA100_LCD1.jpg
http://pages.cthome.net/itv/KPA100_LCD2.jpg
http://pages.cthome.net/itv/KPA100_LCD4.jpg
http://pages.cthome.net/itv/KPA100_LCD5.jpg

73s
Andrey E. Stoev
KB1FZA 


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Re: [Elecraft] LCD Voltmeter mod for KPA100/KAT100 in EC2

2005-04-30 Thread Andrey Stoev

The URL for the meters :
http://www.marteltesttools.com/products.php?cat=113&action=detail&id=69

QM-100V
QM-110T

QM-130M or QM-140V might work for an amp-meter. Proper current sensing 
resistor (shunt) will be needed and some other components.


The thermistor is from Mouser Part# 594-2322-640-63103

73s
Anrey E. Stoev
KB1FZA 


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Re: [Elecraft] LCD Voltmeter mod for KPA100/KAT100 in EC2

2005-05-01 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hi Sverre,

You are absolutly right! I totally forgot about the current sensor in 
KPA100 - i havent looked at the schematics for awhile. I think i can even 
use the I SENSE signal which already has swing 0-5V. Using an op-amp buffer 
with high impedance input should not affect the signal and than it is a 
matter of an adjustable voltage divider to get it down to 0-1V (QM-130V). 
Peak-holding feature might be a good ideas since QM-130V samples 10 times 
per sec and its not difficult to add. QM-130V has 9 segments so choosing 
swing 0 to 27A will result in an exact 3A per unit display - should be 
accurate enough to detect current anomalies at high power levels..
Small PCB attached to the back of the front panel should do the trick. Now I 
have to find time to build it :-)


73s

- Original Message - 
From: "Sverre Holm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Andrey Stoev'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 5:25 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] LCD Voltmeter mod for KPA100/KAT100 in EC2



-Original Message-
The URL for the meters :
http://www.marteltesttools.com/products.php?cat=113&action=detail&id=69

QM-100V
QM-110T

QM-130M or QM-140V might work for an amp-meter. Proper current sensing
resistor (shunt) will be needed and some other components.
---
Nice idea with the KPA1100 metering. The KPA100 already has a current
sensing resistor in the 12V line: R7 0.005 ohms. At 20A it gives 100 mV, 
so

maybe it can be used?

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 EXTERNAL VFO CONTROL

2005-05-05 Thread Andrey Stoev

Chris,

If you have a computer close by, you could use a remote control software - 
there are few good ones...including Ham Radio Deluxe or the one by Elecraft 
and you can use Power Mate from Griffin Technology as your VFO knob - 
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powermate/.
It is USB device and comes in aluminum and black metal finish, look very 
neat!. You can even configure the driver to perform specific key strokes, 
while rotating or pressing the encoder.

You can even attach the Finger Dimple which Elecraft sells.

73s
Andrey E. Stoev

- Original Message - 
From: "Chris Page" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 3:45 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 EXTERNAL VFO CONTROL



Has anyone built an external VFO for the K2, please?

I took the plunge last Sunday and sold my UK main station
transceiver, a Ten-Tec Omni VI, and have replaced it with one of my
K2s.  I am now an all Elecraft K2 station at both my UK and at my
Florida QTHs (SO2R in Florida and shortly SO2R in the UK).

The only thing I miss with the Omni is the external VFO control (Ten-
Tec model 301) and wondered if anyone has built an external VFO for
the K2?

Perhaps one of our technically minded members on the Reflector can
tell us if it would be possible and/or very difficult to build such a
control for the K2, possibly from Elecraft spare parts?

I found a short thread in the Reflector Archives in July 2000 about
it but without any firm conclusions.

I didn't realise just how much I have come to use and depend on the
external VFO of the Omni, especially in contests, until operating
without it this week!

73 de Chris, G4BUE






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Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging

2005-05-19 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hi Ron,



The proper charging voltage is 13.8 V across the battery terminals (!). To 
get this voltage I have to supply my K2 (sn 2894) with ~14.1 V from the 
power supply because of the forward votage drop caused by the diode.


Looks like you either need a separate power supply for charging or even 
better - an adjustable one. I am using Alinco DM-330MV which has an 
adjustable "PRESET" function. My PRESET is set for 14.1 volts and there is a 
little switch on the back of the PS which activates the preset voltage when 
I need to charge the battery. If you supply K2 with exactly 13.8 volts at 
the external power supply you risk damaging the battery by undercharging it 
(!) especially if you run K2 at the same time which will cause the voltage 
to drop further.


You won't overcharge the battery as long as the voltage across the battery 
terminals does not exceed 13.8 Volts. The SLA battery will be in "float" 
charge mode where the battery will self-regulate the charging current when 
supplied with 13.5-13.8 volts. In this mode the charging current will equal 
the self-discharge current and the battery can (float) stay indefinitely in 
a fully charged state. Less than 13.5 volts is considered "undercharge" 
which will decrease the capacity of the battery and will lead to "sulfation" 
shortening its life. More than 13.8 V  is charging mode (usually at around 
14.1-14.5 until the current drops to a specific level indicating fully 
charged battery) but if the battery is already fully charged, then it will 
be overcharging if you maintain higher then 13.8 voltage. Both 
"undercharging" and "overcharging" will damage the battery and severe 
"overcharging" can damage even your K2. In overcharge mode the SLA battery 
produces excessive amounts of hydrogen and as the pressure builds up it is 
vented from a special relief valve, along with corrosive fumes from the acid 
and the battery dries out. When severely overcharged, the battery also heats 
up and as it heats up will accept more current and this will make it event 
hotter - it's called thermal runaway and the battery will be permanently 
damaged and may lead to damage of your K2 - not a pretty sight.


If you have an adjustable power supply you can connect a DMM across the 
battery terminals and start slowly increasing the voltage until your DMM 
reads 13.8 V. Then disconnect the DMM from the battery and connect it to the 
power supply and note the voltage coming from the power supply. Maintain 
this voltage when K2 is not in use. This will keep the battery fully charged 
at all times.




If you are using the radio and you are transmitting for prolonged periods of 
time it is better to check how much the voltage drops across the battery 
terminals when transmitting at full power with K2 and the radio is supplied 
with the voltage necessary to maintain 13.8 v at the battery terminals. If 
at full power the voltage does not drop under 13.5 volts you don't have to 
turn the battery switch off.


You MUST turn the battery switch off when you power your radio from an 
external 12 V battery - for example when mobile with the engine not running.


What I usually do is to charge my battery for few days when not using K2 - 
every 2-3 weeks, ill leave my battery on "float" for 2-3 days and then turn 
the battery switch off and use my K2 as usual.




73s
Andrey E. Stoev
KB1FZA

- Original Message - 
From: "Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:20 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging


According to the builtin volt meter on my K2, my old Astron RS-20A is 
putting out 13.3V (which I understand to be really more like 13.5-13.6 
because of voltage drop across the diode).  A couple questions regarding 
that and the KBT2:


1.  Is that adequate voltage for charging the KBT2?  The battery manual 
calls for 13.8V.


2.  Is it OK to leave the red battery switch on the back of the rig ON 
whenever I'm using the K2 on the power supply...in other words, am I 
running any risk of overcharging the battery?  Or should I switch the 
battery off unless I'm running from (or charging up) the battery?


Thanks for the input!
--
72, Ron - W5RCM / ZS1MCD
Austin TX / Hermanus ZA

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Re: Sal Ammoniac (WAS: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tips)

2005-10-07 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hi Ron,

The sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride) which was widely used back in the days 
to clean the soldering iron tips is very corrosive agent when heated.
Under hight temperature the ammonium chloride breaks down as NH4CL + heat 
to NH3 (ammonia) and HCL (Hydrocloride, which when solved in water is known 
as Murratic acid).
The HCL does the cleaning of the soldering iron tip and it  is an extremly 
corrosive agent (not to mentioned what will do to your lungs - it turns into 
murratic acid and can cause swelling, inflamation, etc). Just the vapours 
and the particles on the soldering iron tip will cause corrosion to the 
electronics if used during the soldering process.


Its OK to clean the iron every once in awhile but its very BAD idea to use 
it as soldering aid (as flux). On other hand it is used as a component of 
the flux in the plumbing.



73s
KB1FZA

- Original Message - 
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 10:38 PM
Subject: Sal Ammoniac (WAS: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tips)


Steve, AA4K wrote:

I'd be very reluctant to use a soldering iron tip cleaned with sal ammoniac
on electronic equipment. For some manufacturers, it will void the warranty.

--

Now that's an interesting thought. What possible harm does a common salt
(NH4)Cl do, especially if it's used as a cleaner that is long gone before
the iron ever approaches an electronic component, not as a soldering aid.

It's been a long time since I fiddled with that strange stuff, but Jerry
reminds me that it is an excellent de-oxidizer. One of its interesting
properties is that it is NEVER a liquid. It is either a solid or a gas,
depending upon the temperature. It's the gas boiling off of the solid
material when heated that provides the cleaning action.

I've never seen an electronics company that worried about irons that had
been cleaned with the stuff, Steve. Please fill us in!

Ron AC7AC
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[Elecraft] Need K2 Front panel scan

2005-10-07 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hey guys,

I am looking for a scan (JPG file would be perfect - 300 dpi will work the 
best for me) on the front panel of the K2.


Any help will be apreicated

73s
KB1FZA 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need K2 Front panel scan

2005-10-08 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hi guys,

I am sorry for not beeing very specific - I need a scan of the actual 
faceplate - the image on elecraft.com is a drawing. I am looking for a 
scanned image of the faceplate - not the front panel PCB, should someone has 
it handy or has an unassembled kit and he is willing to scan the faceplate 
for me!


Thanks in advance!!!

73s
KB1FZA

- Original Message - 
From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Andrey Stoev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need K2 Front panel scan



Ingo already provided the answer if you were looking for the front panel
layout and artwork, but if what you meant was the FP board itself, you can
find scans of most all the Elecraft boards at Tom Hammond's website
(www.n0ss.net).

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-



I am looking for a scan (JPG file would be perfect - 300 dpi will
work the
best for me) on the front panel of the K2.

Any help will be apreicated

73s
KB1FZA


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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[Elecraft] Question about KX3 display brightness and contrast

2024-01-04 Thread Andrey Stoev
I have question about the KX3 LCD backlight.
Looking at the schematics, it appears that Elecraft designed the Backlight to 
have 2 levels of brightness besides being turned OFF.
Watching an old KX3 demo by Wayne, when he entered the Menu system, the LCD 
Brightness menu item displayed "2" as level, instead of "ON" but the current 
firmware only allows for ON/OFF.
Why was this abandoned?

When I operate in my shack, I like to keep it dark and the KX3 display is just 
way too bright - actually brighter than anything else I have running.

Any chance to see also a contrast adjustment for the LCD - this will help when 
viewing the LCD at very steep angles when operated in the field - Wayne 
mentioned that he will put this on the "whishlist" for firmware updates years 
ago and both of these feature doesn't seem to require a lot of codding 
(considering that the brightness level seems to have been implemented at one 
point).

73
de Andrey, AE1S
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Re: [Elecraft] I need some guidance regarding the equalizer in the KX3

2024-01-21 Thread Andrey Stoev
The equalizer is an audio level equalizer much like your stereo system's EQ and 
it is used to enhance or suppress certain audio-range frequencies in order to 
"model" the output audio response to your listening preferences. Look at it as 
your Audio Treble / Bass adjustment
It is NOT intended to eliminate / filter interference - for this you have to 
use Pass Band Tuning and in addition you can get help from the DSP noise 
reduction.
Move the PBT to narrow the pass band or use it as HI CUT/LO CUT IF Filter 
(depending on where the interference is located).
The EQ is downstream from there and will have a marginal effect - the skirts 
are not steep but rather gradual and the amount of attenuation is minimal to 
remove offending interference but enough to change how a signal sounds . There 
is also Tx EQ which you can use for your mic to adjust how your voice sounds 
when Tx.

73
de Andrey, AE1S
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[Elecraft] K2 - LCD front panel meters for KPA100/KAT100 in EC2

2008-08-05 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hey guys,
I posted on my blog ( http://blog.kotarak.net/ ) some text and pictures of 
KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 modification I did a few years ago.
I installed a couple of LCD meters on the front panel of the EC2. This is a 
fun project and easy to do! Its been working just fine all those years.


73
de Andrey, AE1Z 



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[Elecraft] Question about the display LEDs

2005-02-13 Thread Andrey Stoev
Hey guys!

I am looking for yellow/orange display LEDs like the ones used in K2.I would 
like to change the original green LEDs in the LCD of my K2 with yellow ones. 
Most of my equipment is using yellow/orange display lights and i really like 
the "warm" feeling of the yellow glow - like the tungsten lamps used in the 
vintage radio sets.
The LCD display of the K2 is very uncommon and i dont have luck finding LEDs 
for the backlighting of any color.
I am aware that the current draw might go up few miliamps depending on the type 
yellow LEDs used.
Any help would be greatly apreciated!

73s
Andrey E. Stoev
KB1FZA
K2 #2894

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