Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 08 September 2015 00:23:58 MC Cason wrote:

> Gene,
>
>Not to take this too far off topic, but have you looked at any of
> these?
>
> http://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/product/9000-btu-110v-15-seer-dc-inv
>erter-mini-split-heat-pump-ac-by-klimaire
> http://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/category/9000_btu_mini_split_prices
> http://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/category/12000_btu_mini_split_prices
>
> On 09/06/2015 02:52 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >>> But I have a vent fan that comes on when the humidity or
> >>> temps go about 70 or so, just enough electric heat in the winter
> >>> to keep everything above the dew point.  I hate rusted tools.
> >>
> >> I hear that's a problem in England too, and they often use a
> >> dehumidifier. The power consumed by a small compressor has to be
> >> much less than a heater.
> >>
> >> Erik
> >
> > Yeah, if I could find an affordable heat pump, that would be a
> > treat.  If shaped right, I could build a "tube" in the wall, and use
> > a normal AC unit, turning it butt end in, in the winter time.  But
> > that idea has warts when the temps outside get below about 45F
> > because the now outside coils freeze up.  And WV winters spend a
> > considerable amount of time below 45F, sometimes in the - range. A
> > real heat pump, with the outside coil buried 10' deep in this yellow
> > clay gumbo would be ideal, but likely north of $1500 for an 10k btu
> > unit.  For that, I can let the thermostat turn on a 1500 watt
> > resistance heater for several years, holding it to something north
> > of 45F, or whatever is above the dew point.  I have a 2nd heater,
> > another 1500 if I am working out there, but its an electronic
> > thermostat that forgets to come back on if there's been a power bump
> > of 1/20th second.  Very nice little $26 heater otherwise.

$900 for a 24.3 SEER 9000 btu.  Over a thou by the time its on a pair of 
hand trucks at my place.  I don't think I've have enough time left to 
make it show a profit, so I'll pass.  Born 20 years too soon. :)  OTOH, 
I have lived thru some very interesting times, and done some stuff I'd 
never have had a chance to do if I was born in '54 instead of '34.
If I had been able to buy that unit 15 years ago (at 15 years ago's 
prices) then it would have been a no brainer.  Tehcnology does move on.

The indoor unit looks familiar, I think my fav greasy spoon installed 2 
of them about 18 months ago.  I'll have to ask Kathy how they work.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets

[MC Cason]

Gene,

   Not to take this too far off topic, but have you looked at any of these?

http://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/product/9000-btu-110v-15-seer-dc-inverter-mini-split-heat-pump-ac-by-klimaire
http://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/category/9000_btu_mini_split_prices
http://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/category/12000_btu_mini_split_prices


On 09/06/2015 02:52 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>>> But I have a vent fan that comes on when the humidity or
>>> temps go about 70 or so, just enough electric heat in the winter to
>>> keep everything above the dew point.  I hate rusted tools.
>> I hear that's a problem in England too, and they often use a
>> dehumidifier. The power consumed by a small compressor has to be much
>> less than a heater.
>>
>> Erik
>>
> Yeah, if I could find an affordable heat pump, that would be a treat.  If
> shaped right, I could build a "tube" in the wall, and use a normal AC
> unit, turning it butt end in, in the winter time.  But that idea has
> warts when the temps outside get below about 45F because the now outside
> coils freeze up.  And WV winters spend a considerable amount of time
> below 45F, sometimes in the - range. A real heat pump, with the outside
> coil buried 10' deep in this yellow clay gumbo would be ideal, but
> likely north of $1500 for an 10k btu unit.  For that, I can let the
> thermostat turn on a 1500 watt resistance heater for several years,
> holding it to something north of 45F, or whatever is above the dew
> point.  I have a 2nd heater, another 1500 if I am working out there, but
> its an electronic thermostat that forgets to come back on if there's
> been a power bump of 1/20th second.  Very nice little $26 heater
> otherwise.


-- 
MC Cason
Eagle3D - Created by Matthias Weißer
github.com/mcason/Eagle3D



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Re: [Emc-users] Emc-users Digest, Vol 113, Issue 18

[john...@superiorroll.com]

X

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Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 113, Issue 18
Date: Mon, Sep 7, 2015 5:55 PM

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Today's Topics:

1. Re: Machining a servo motor shaft. (Gene Heskett)
2. Re: Machining a servo motor shaft. (john mcintyre)
3. Re: Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets
(Gene Heskett)
4. Re: Machining a servo motor shaft. (rayj)
5. SCARA Kinematics WTF!? (Carsten Presser)
6. Re: Machining a servo motor shaft. (Jason Burton)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2015 07:49:40 -0400
From: Gene Heskett 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Message-ID: <201509070749.40736.ghesk...@wdtv.com>
Content-Type: Text/Plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"

On Monday 07 September 2015 06:09:42 andy pugh wrote:

> I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
> it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
> a Lathe X axis).
>
> I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
> make it into a shorter motor without a brake.
>
> The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
> the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
> do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
> remaining swarf, then cut it all off.
>
> Does anyone have a better idea?

If the brake can be removed but leave the shaft, it would make a great 
place to put a damper on it.  Not that x normally needs the speed 
because of the short travel range, but...

And I  can't think of a better way to keep the swarf out of it than what 
you are describing.  I'd likely do the same.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 



--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2015 22:17:26 +1000
From: john mcintyre 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.
To: "emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net"

Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Good day
I usually if possible wrap the shaft in a heavy plastic sheet first, as the 
adhesive tends to cling to the 
swarf ,then wrap duct-tape over the lot.
Regards john

> From: bodge...@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2015 11:09:42 +0100
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.
> 
> I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
> it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
> a Lathe X axis).
> 
> I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
> make it into a shorter motor without a brake.
> 
> The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
> the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
> do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
> remaining swarf, then cut it all off.
> 
> Does anyone have a better idea?
> 
> -- 
> atp
> If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
> http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto
> 
> --
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
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> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2015 13:12:04 -0400
From: Gene Heskett 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and
sprockets
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Message-ID: <201509071312.04199.ghesk...@wdtv.com>
Content-Type: Text/Plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"

On Monday 07 September 2015 07:33:16 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Monday 07 September 2015 04:14:46 Erik Christiansen wrote:
> > On 06.09.15 11:23, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > > Finding the stuff locally or on the web is a problem though.
> > > Henckle's own site isn't at all helpfull when the bury each
> > > products info in an individual downloadable pdf.  Nothing I could
> > > find gave me something that resembles a recipe, where if you want
> > > to do this, use this product sort of a list.
> >
> > Gene, the local homepage:
> > http://www.loctite.com.au/loctite-Australia-and-New-Zealand.htm
> > has on the LHS: "Products by Applications", which provides a pretty
> > straightf

Re: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.

[Jason Burton]

Assuming the bearings come off, maybe dip the end you are machining in hot
paraffin? After it sets up it should make a fair chip dam.

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 11:56 AM, rayj  wrote:

> Someone mentioned using modelling clay for removing chips from magnets
> on this list earlier.
>
> I was thinking: Wrap it with cling wrap or maybe cover it with grease so
> the clay doesn't adhere and then cover it with clay.  When finished,
> press all the swarf firmly into the clay and then remove the clay.
>
> Now that I've finished, I realize that the clay would probably get
> thrown off during the turning, but maybe the idea will lead to another
> solution.
>
> Back to lurking.
>
> Raymond Julian
> Kettle River, MN
>
> The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty,
> understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system.
> And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness,
> egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men
> admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second.
> -John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)
>
> On 09/07/2015 05:09 AM, andy pugh wrote:
> > I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
> > it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
> > a Lathe X axis).
> >
> > I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
> > make it into a shorter motor without a brake.
> >
> > The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
> > the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
> > do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
> > remaining swarf, then cut it all off.
> >
> > Does anyone have a better idea?
> >
>
>
> --
> ___
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[Emc-users] SCARA Kinematics WTF!?

[Carsten Presser]

Hi,

Sorry for the long confusing post in advance.
I am having some troubles with scarakins:

For reference, a copy of my current config:
https://ca.rstenpresser.de/~cpresser/20150907_linuxcnc-config-hirata-scara.tgz

First of all, I dont know which Axes/Joints I need to define in both the
.ini and .hal files.

The real machine has 4 Joints:
http://i.imgur.com/bhsfqXk.jpg
 - Joint0: Inner Arm
 - Joint1: Outer Arm
 - Joint2: Linear Z-Axis
 - Joint3: Rotary C-Axis (rotates around the Z-Direction)

In the example-config-ini-file the following AXIS are used:
(/usr/share/doc/linuxcnc/examples/sample-configs/sim/axis/vismach/scara)
 - [AXIS_0]
 - [AXIS_1]
 - [AXIS_2]
 - [AXIS_5]

The corresponding HAL-File however uses
net J0pos <= axis.0.motor-pos-cmd
net J1pos <= axis.1.motor-pos-cmd
net J2pos <= axis.2.motor-pos-cmd
net J3pos <= axis.3.motor-pos-cmd

This does indeed match the 'scarakins.c' source file. A comment in line
73 says:
/* joint[0], joint[1] and joint[3] are in degrees and joint[2] is in
length units */

With the example-config the C-Axis is slow as hell.
I tinkered around a litte and found that when I use axis.5.xxx for the
C-Axis the speeds are okay. It looks like is isn't a good idea to use
ini-entry [AXIS_5] with the axis.3.xxx-pins.

But now I have axis.3.xx and axis4.xx unused. This makes linuxcnc
unhappy, when trying to switch into world-mode it complains that those
two axis aren't homed.
So I added homing to those two axis, thats where I am now.

Now switching into world mode actually works. But with errors, the
GL-Preview isnt happy:
http://nopaste.linux-dev.org/?755109
(I fixed that by uncommenting those lines)

Now comes the FUN part. When I rotate the C-Axis by hand (servo amps
disabled) the B-Axis-Value on the DRO changes.
Video: https://ca.rstenpresser.de/~cpresser/MVI_2799.MOV

Any Hints (besides not using scarakins!?)

Kind Regards
Carsten



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Re: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.

[rayj]

Someone mentioned using modelling clay for removing chips from magnets 
on this list earlier.

I was thinking: Wrap it with cling wrap or maybe cover it with grease so 
the clay doesn't adhere and then cover it with clay.  When finished, 
press all the swarf firmly into the clay and then remove the clay.

Now that I've finished, I realize that the clay would probably get 
thrown off during the turning, but maybe the idea will lead to another 
solution.

Back to lurking.

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN

The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, 
understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system. 
And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, 
egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men 
admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second. 
-John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)

On 09/07/2015 05:09 AM, andy pugh wrote:
> I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
> it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
> a Lathe X axis).
>
> I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
> make it into a shorter motor without a brake.
>
> The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
> the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
> do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
> remaining swarf, then cut it all off.
>
> Does anyone have a better idea?
>

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Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 07 September 2015 07:33:16 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Monday 07 September 2015 04:14:46 Erik Christiansen wrote:
> > On 06.09.15 11:23, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > > Finding the stuff locally or on the web is a problem though.
> > > Henckle's own site isn't at all helpfull when the bury each
> > > products info in an individual downloadable pdf.  Nothing I could
> > > find gave me something that resembles a recipe, where if you want
> > > to do this, use this product sort of a list.
> >
> > Gene, the local homepage:
> > http://www.loctite.com.au/loctite-Australia-and-New-Zealand.htm
> > has on the LHS: "Products by Applications", which provides a pretty
> > straightforward illustrated menu. OK, it is only at the bottom of
> > the "retaining" page that 638/648/680 and "Learn More" appear, so
> > some patient scanning is needed. Is there less at "www.loctite.com"?
> > (Didn't see any 640 there. Beats me.)
> >
> > > A web search for loctite 626 returns nothing of use though.
> >
> > The first hit:
> > http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797952638977
> >
> > has a "Technical Information" tab, which gives a basic but useful
> > list of properties - enough to check whether it'll do for your
> > thread size, applied torque, and operating temperature. (I just whiz
> > off an email to 'em for anything more specific than that.)
> >
> > > Amazon says the high strength sleeve retainer is #640. 9 bucks a
> > > 6ml tube.
> >
> > No hits for that on a site search, but a web search finds it on a
> > Henkel page. It is a bit like spotlighting for rabbits in scrubby
> > country - you catch the glint of their beady eyes in the spot, and
> > the next instant they're round a tussock, and vanished in the
> > shrubbery.
> >
> > Erik
>
> It sounds as though one should have a tube of each in the toolbox
> drawer.
>
> So I'll see what NAPA can supply tomorrow.
>
> In the meantime the permagoo threadlocker red has been curing since
> mid afternoon yesterday, and I am mentally going thru my midden heap,
> trying to find a table riser I can use to bring the clamped up motor
> up to a height I can reach on the z down limited GO704.  And except
> for a piece of wooden 4x4, or carving up a big block of alu, coming up
> empty.
>
> By the time I get clamping pressure on the fitted flywheel holders I
> made out of a full inch thick scrap of white ash yesterday, that piece
> of 4x4 may as well be a wet kitchen sponge.  Not rigid enough by a
> long ways.
>
> Grizzly has a riser, but I don't think its tall enough at 3 & 9/16"
> and its north of $200 by the time the freight is paid.  And its a week
> away. I may have to pay a visit to one of the local scrap yards for
> raw materials.  That has been fruitful in the past.  I once bought a
> nearly 40 lb block of aluminum, about 6.5x6.5" cross section about 20"
> long that way.  Been nibbling on that for smaller bit & pieces for a
> while, but it would take quite a large bag to hold the swarf if I
> sacrificed whats left of that, and its dead soft gummy stuff, wanting
> to pack up the flutes of your tools way to easily.  And I'm not yet
> rigged for coolant on this mill.  The table has a drain, but its way
> to small at 1/4" bore and would be plugged with swarf in less than 2
> minutes.  But I can see a small pool pump and a 5 gallon bucket of
> water if I could figure out how to rust proof it.  I assume there is
> such a product.
>
> Humm, I wonder how long an aquarium pump would last pumping the usual
> parts cleaner, aka K2 or similar?  Has anybody tried that?  I'll see
> what TSC may have for small electric fuel pumps. A gravity feed
> dribbling on the tool would help a lot, and a tanks, a 5ver on the
> floor with a pickup 2/3rds of the way up the side, pumping into a
> smaller one about 6 feet up and dribbling out of that might work. But
> with K2 and its ilk, the fire people would have a whole litter of
> elephants.  So treated for rust prevention water would be better.
>
> I'm rambling and its time to go make some coffee to see if I can make
> sense with my mutterings. :)

So, I sawed about 2.5" off the end of the remainder and machined the top 
and bottom flat, although the first pass disclosed that I needed to take 
up the gibs, which I did, and now both faces sit nice & flat on the 
table.  But the table slots lack about 1/8" of spacing on each side, 
forcing the bolts to the rear where they can get past the cooling fins.  
But that made me make a wedge block to put under the back of the motor 
because the lopsided grip on the smooth part of the flywheel angles it 
tail down about 5 degrees as I tighten the bolts.  That seems solid 
enough but too much bolt draw could bend the motor shaft, so Its a 
balancing act.

But I think its tight enough I can drill the holes _if_ the bit is 
sharpened first and I drill a small pilot hole first.  After lunch as I 
have not yet rotated the head.

But now its lunch time, gotta go see what my baby wants.  And where I can 
get 

Re: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.

[john mcintyre]

Good day
I usually if possible wrap the shaft in a heavy plastic sheet first, as the 
adhesive tends to cling to the 
swarf ,then wrap duct-tape over the lot.
Regards john
 
> From: bodge...@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2015 11:09:42 +0100
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.
> 
> I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
> it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
> a Lathe X axis).
> 
> I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
> make it into a shorter motor without a brake.
> 
> The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
> the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
> do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
> remaining swarf, then cut it all off.
> 
> Does anyone have a better idea?
> 
> -- 
> atp
> If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
> http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto
> 
> --
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
  
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Re: [Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 07 September 2015 06:09:42 andy pugh wrote:

> I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
> it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
> a Lathe X axis).
>
> I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
> make it into a shorter motor without a brake.
>
> The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
> the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
> do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
> remaining swarf, then cut it all off.
>
> Does anyone have a better idea?

If the brake can be removed but leave the shaft, it would make a great 
place to put a damper on it.  Not that x normally needs the speed 
because of the short travel range, but...

And I  can't think of a better way to keep the swarf out of it than what 
you are describing.  I'd likely do the same.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 07 September 2015 04:14:46 Erik Christiansen wrote:

> On 06.09.15 11:23, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Finding the stuff locally or on the web is a problem though.
> > Henckle's own site isn't at all helpfull when the bury each products
> > info in an individual downloadable pdf.  Nothing I could find gave
> > me something that resembles a recipe, where if you want to do this,
> > use this product sort of a list.
>
> Gene, the local homepage:
> http://www.loctite.com.au/loctite-Australia-and-New-Zealand.htm
> has on the LHS: "Products by Applications", which provides a pretty
> straightforward illustrated menu. OK, it is only at the bottom of the
> "retaining" page that 638/648/680 and "Learn More" appear, so some
> patient scanning is needed. Is there less at "www.loctite.com"?
> (Didn't see any 640 there. Beats me.)
>
> > A web search for loctite 626 returns nothing of use though.
>
> The first hit:
> http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797952638977
>
> has a "Technical Information" tab, which gives a basic but useful list
> of properties - enough to check whether it'll do for your thread size,
> applied torque, and operating temperature. (I just whiz off an email
> to 'em for anything more specific than that.)
>
> > Amazon says the high strength sleeve retainer is #640. 9 bucks a 6ml
> > tube.
>
> No hits for that on a site search, but a web search finds it on a
> Henkel page. It is a bit like spotlighting for rabbits in scrubby
> country - you catch the glint of their beady eyes in the spot, and the
> next instant they're round a tussock, and vanished in the shrubbery.
>
> Erik

It sounds as though one should have a tube of each in the toolbox drawer.  

So I'll see what NAPA can supply tomorrow.

In the meantime the permagoo threadlocker red has been curing since mid 
afternoon yesterday, and I am mentally going thru my midden heap, trying 
to find a table riser I can use to bring the clamped up motor up to a 
height I can reach on the z down limited GO704.  And except for a piece 
of wooden 4x4, or carving up a big block of alu, coming up empty.

By the time I get clamping pressure on the fitted flywheel holders I made 
out of a full inch thick scrap of white ash yesterday, that piece of 4x4 
may as well be a wet kitchen sponge.  Not rigid enough by a long ways.

Grizzly has a riser, but I don't think its tall enough at 3 & 9/16" and 
its north of $200 by the time the freight is paid.  And its a week away. 
I may have to pay a visit to one of the local scrap yards for raw 
materials.  That has been fruitful in the past.  I once bought a nearly 
40 lb block of aluminum, about 6.5x6.5" cross section about 20" long 
that way.  Been nibbling on that for smaller bit & pieces for a while, 
but it would take quite a large bag to hold the swarf if I sacrificed 
whats left of that, and its dead soft gummy stuff, wanting to pack up 
the flutes of your tools way to easily.  And I'm not yet rigged for 
coolant on this mill.  The table has a drain, but its way to small at 
1/4" bore and would be plugged with swarf in less than 2 minutes.  But I 
can see a small pool pump and a 5 gallon bucket of water if I could 
figure out how to rust proof it.  I assume there is such a product.

Humm, I wonder how long an aquarium pump would last pumping the usual 
parts cleaner, aka K2 or similar?  Has anybody tried that?  I'll see 
what TSC may have for small electric fuel pumps. A gravity feed 
dribbling on the tool would help a lot, and a tanks, a 5ver on the floor 
with a pickup 2/3rds of the way up the side, pumping into a smaller one 
about 6 feet up and dribbling out of that might work. But with K2 and 
its ilk, the fire people would have a whole litter of elephants.  So 
treated for rust prevention water would be better.

I'm rambling and its time to go make some coffee to see if I can make 
sense with my mutterings. :)

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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[Emc-users] Machining a servo motor shaft.

[andy pugh]

I have a motor that would be about right for my lathe conversion, if
it didn't have a brake on the back. (a nice short motor is useful for
a Lathe X axis).

I am considering re-machining the rotor shaft and the end cover to
make it into a shorter motor without a brake.

The problem, clearly, will be that all the swarf will want to stick to
the magnet. My idea is to wrap it in masking tape and then duct tape,
do the machining, add another layer of duct-tape to immobilise any
remaining swarf, then cut it all off.

Does anyone have a better idea?

-- 
atp
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets

[Erik Christiansen]

On 06.09.15 11:23, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Finding the stuff locally or on the web is a problem though.
> Henckle's own site isn't at all helpfull when the bury each products
> info in an individual downloadable pdf.  Nothing I could find gave me
> something that resembles a recipe, where if you want to do this, use
> this product sort of a list.

Gene, the local homepage:
http://www.loctite.com.au/loctite-Australia-and-New-Zealand.htm
has on the LHS: "Products by Applications", which provides a pretty
straightforward illustrated menu. OK, it is only at the bottom of the
"retaining" page that 638/648/680 and "Learn More" appear, so some
patient scanning is needed. Is there less at "www.loctite.com"?
(Didn't see any 640 there. Beats me.)

> A web search for loctite 626 returns nothing of use though.

The first hit:
http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797952638977

has a "Technical Information" tab, which gives a basic but useful list
of properties - enough to check whether it'll do for your thread size,
applied torque, and operating temperature. (I just whiz off an email to
'em for anything more specific than that.)

> Amazon says the high strength sleeve retainer is #640. 9 bucks a 6ml 
> tube.

No hits for that on a site search, but a web search finds it on a Henkel
page. It is a bit like spotlighting for rabbits in scrubby country - you
catch the glint of their beady eyes in the spot, and the next instant
they're round a tussock, and vanished in the shrubbery.

Erik

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Re: [Emc-users] Lathe conversion to all metal gearing and sprockets

[Erik Christiansen]

On 06.09.15 05:56, Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> > "Unfortunately, LOCTITE anaerobic products (like the 680) can only be
> > used on metal surfaces. Zirconia is a non metal (i.e. ceramic) and a
> > Primer is not suitable for this application."
> >
> 
> Wouldn't this be good information to use if you wanted to build up a
> shaft/bore?
> You could use a non metal that should be easily removable?

Hadn't thought of that, but the info sheet mentioned upthread claims
upgraded 680 to be 100% the strength of steel for a 0.05 mm gap,
reducing to ~65% for a 0.25 mm gap. Some folk build precision machines
by whacking through slightly oversized holes in a frame, then epoxying
bearings in place already mounted on their shaft, which is precision
jigged in place, so your approach might work for a small build-up, I
figure.

Erik

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