Re: [EVDL] Open source software to control donor ICE's CPUs

2014-10-05 Thread Adrian DeLeon via EV 


On 10/05/2014 11:37 AM, Michael Ross via EV wrote:

Automotive CPU, MPU, ECU, etc. are often designed using in ASICs
(Application Specific Integrated Circuits) and nowadays FPGAs (Field Gate
Programmable Arrays).  The software is not served up by a drive, or kept on
a flashable EEPROM, it is literally built into the silicon.

snip

It may require the
original the development system to reprogram it.  Or it can only be
reprogrammed by replacing chips and boards - meaning it is very unlikely a
DIYer will have the ability to hack it.


That's exactly what chipping an ICE does. Replaces or reprograms a 
memory chip that contains data tables used by the car's software. It's a 
relatively safe process as you can only screw up the ICE's power profile 
and emissions output but can't cause the onboard computer (and maybe the 
car) to crash.


The only viable open source solution would be to design a carputer that 
can read the car's original sensors, process the data, and use that to 
control the fuel injection, dash, door locks, etc. In the case of a 
Tesla, it might run the charger/inverter. Unfortunately, most 
EV-specific hardware probably has its own computer system that expects 
to send/receive proprietary and possibly encrypted data - making it 
close to impossible to control with a DIY computer unless MUCH help and 
documentation is provided by the OEM.


Related story: A  friend of mine converted a 2000-ish VW Jetta using a 
series DC motor. His biggest headache was the low oil pressure buzzer in 
the instrument cluster. Without a valid reading, the buzzer would go off 
constantly. He cooked up a circuit that would send a normal oil 
pressure reading, then proceeded to get startled at every stoplight! The 
dash computer would see the motor RPM drop to 0, notice the oil pressure 
was still normal... and set the buzzer off! Don't know if he ever 
managed to trick the instrument cluster into staying quiet. Didn't want 
to kill the buzzer as it is also used as a headlight reminder, seatbelt 
warning, etc.


-Adrian

___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Re: [EVDL] 4 to 12 Cell Lithium BMS

2014-09-16 Thread Adrian DeLeon via EV 
OK, it sounds like Steve is having a phantom current issue - the 
phantom being a contactor that is always on.


Are these packs plugged into the AC mains while sitting unused? I had a 
similar issue with the 12V auxiliary battery in my EV. After about 4 
days, the 12V battery would go dead from the small but constant currents 
drawn by the motor controller and mini-BMS board. I solved the problem 
with one of these:


http://batterytender.com/products/motorcycle/waterproof-800-usa-western-hemisphere.html

It's an 800mA trickle charger used to keep the batteries in ATVs and 
snowmobiles from going dead while in storage. It's a smart charger, 
weatherproof, isolated, and runs from 120/240 VAC. It came with both 
alligator clips and a set of ring terminals. Mine is wired to the 
charging plug of my EV, so as long as I'm plugged in, my 12V battery 
stays fully charged.


After retiring one of my EVs, I put the trickle charger to use on a 7AHr 
gel battery that runs an automatic chicken coop door. The battery stays 
charged and the door will still operate for days during a power outage.


If keeping your packs connected to AC power while in storage isn't 
possible AND this is a run contactor, you could wire the contactor 
coil through a connector adjacent to the main pack connector. When 
connecting a pack there would be the big connector (main pack) and the 
small connector (a small shorting plug that would activate the contactor 
coil).


If this is a charging contactor, find a way to power it via AC mains. 
That way when the pack gets disconnected from the mains, the contactor 
will turn off at the same time.


-Adrian


On 09/16/2014 07:24 PM, Mike Nickerson via EV wrote:

I have a Mini BMS system also.  I suspect the contractor might be for charging 
circuitry.  I have the same issues with an SSR in my system.

The Mini BMS is set up to terminate charging if necessary when a cell is over 
voltage and the ignition system is off.  It does this by turning off the SSR or 
contactor on the AC line to the charger when it detects a cell alert with the 
ignition off.

When you turn on the ignition system, it re-arms the contactor back to on, to 
prepare for the next charge cycle.  The problem is that the contactor stays on 
all the time the vehicle is parked.  On my car, it takes about 2 weeks to drain 
the auxiliary battery.

I solve this by pulling the fuse to the EV control circuits which includes 
power to the SSR.  I've wondered if there is a better way too.

Mike


On September 16, 2014 7:02:41 PM MDT, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

Steve Clunn via EV wrote:

I am working on some Golf Carts and portable 12V power packs that get

used

sporadically and may sit for months without use.

I have contactor on one 12V and 36V that draws about 1 amp.  The

problem

is, if everything is happy, the Mini BMS Circuit keeps the contactor

ON.

Which draws enough current, that at some point, will drain the

battery down.

I am trying to come up with a way that the owner can walk away from

this

system, and come back to it and have it ready to go without having to
switch switches OFF and ON.

Steve, could you elaborate a bit more on exactly what you need to do?
My
impression is that you have a 36v pack, with a contactor to connect it
to its load. You don't want to have an on/off key switch; just hop in
and drive. But that would mean keeping the contactor on all the time,
which would run the pack dead?

The best I can think of is something like a seat switch. When no one is

sitting on it, the switch opens and turns the contactor off, which
removes all loads from the batteries. When someone sits on the seat, it

turns on the switch, which turns on the main contactor, and away you
go.

Another possibility is that Albright (and others) make latching
contactors. There is a magnet as well as the solenoid coil. The magnet
is sized to hold the contactor on (once it is already on), but not
strong enough to pull it in (if it is already off). You then pulse the
coil with a positive pulse of current to turn it on, or a negative
pulse
of current to turn it off. In both states, the continuous power
consumption is zero.

___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)



___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)