AW: Battery (FLUFF)
-Ursprüngliche Nachricht- Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]Im Auftrag von Brandon Gesendet am: Sonntag, 2. Juli 2000 09:06 An: Multiple recipients of list Betreff: Re: Battery (FLUFF) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: am working on inventing a battery that stores AC, a drill that goes in and turns corners, and an aluminum magnet. What? No 'water to gas' conversion tablets? :^)) Brandon Hey ! That won't work with my brand new "Dehydrated Water" Pellets. Please bear that in mind Joerg AK Leonardo the Rocket Scientist
heat
Just a curious thing that I just noticed. Have found that the right side portions of the frame work gets noticeably hotter than the left. Have checked the venting and such to see if there's been some trash stuck about. Have not taken body panels off. Just thought that this might be just the way things are with the GTS and if anybody else had ever noticed. I have only noticed this just last night and then it was to wipe off a few bugs. Have noticed in this hot weather that anything inside the storage box a top the gas tank gets rather warm. It sure won't be good for foods that might melt. I feel that is expected because of the air box under it. Hopefully once during the winter when I removed all the body panels to do some general maintenance that I didn't block or miss align something that is causing the over heat on the right side. Have known other friends with top line sport bikes that use a water wetter additive (brand name skips me) that they use and they have no problems with. Seems it could be used for the GTS would like to know if there is some strange reason it isn't compatible with the GTS cooling system. Also what is the best brand name of coolant that any of you folks use? Ken Swartz
Tail light question
Over the weekend I noticed something I thought a bit odd. Remembering that the GTS has 2 tail/brake lights side by side. Both of my tail lights come on fine but when you either step on the rear pedal or pull the front lever, the right tail light goes out while the left brake light comes on. I tried switching bulbs, no change. Any ideas? Thanks
Re: Tail light question
On Mon, 3 Jul 2000, Argo, Timothy D. wrote: Over the weekend I noticed something I thought a bit odd. Remembering that the GTS has 2 tail/brake lights side by side. Both of my tail lights come on fine but when you either step on the rear pedal or pull the front lever, the right tail light goes out while the left brake light comes on. I tried switching bulbs, no change. You've got some damage in your wiring. When you are in a low power mode, both light. When it is high power (brake light), there is only enough for one, the other bulb is starved. Trace the wiring harness and find the bad connector. Take care, Mike Michael Weaver (706)542-6468 [EMAIL PROTECTED] UCNS Network Specialist LAN Support Group University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html
Re: Broken Bolt in swingarm adjuster
The aluminum is not hardened around the bolt. The most likely problem is it galled to the threads. In the good ol' US of A, a battery with 0 volts is of no use to us. Are you sure we did not throw that one away, and you rescued it? RSRBOB PS, use never seize when re installing bolts into aluminum, and be one better than the factory was!
Heat
Ken, I've also experienced this GTS phenomenon and believe this is normal. I try not to place anything other then a hat or "foot" for the side stand. That asphalt will collapse under the weight of this machine Only good thing is that a pastrami sandwich keeps nice and warm for those picnic stops "Every cloud has a silver lining"... "CruzTrooper"
Re: Tail light question
I suspect the hot lead for the brake light to that bulb has an open somewhere down the line. Check for power starting at the connector for the T/L bulb and work your way back to the switches, at some point, you will find power. Look for the break between the point where you have power and the last point where you had no power. RSRBOB
Re: heat (water wetter)
There is virtually no reason to use Water Wetter (that is the brand name) on a street bike. Basically, it is used for racebikes because it's not as slippery as anti-freeze should you crash on the track and spill coolant. It has no freezing protection (when leaving my racebike at the track overnight in the winter I have to drain the cooling system) and only cools marginally better than water, if at all. Using this stuff on the street is not a good idea. Use an antifreeze specifically designed for motorcycles. There are some other properties of automotive antifreeze that don't work well with some motorcycle coolant systems. Jay In a message dated 7/3/00 5:27:12 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Have known other friends with top line sport bikes that use a water wetter additive (brand name skips me)
Re: heat (water wetter)
In a message dated 7/3/00 11:15:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: There are some other properties of automotive antifreeze that don't work well with some motorcycle coolant systems. What? I know there used to be A-F that was not for aluminum engines/radiators. I have not heard of different properties for Mc and automotive applications. Also, prior to this year, Yamaha did not produce their own brand of coolant, so, they apparently were not too worried about it.
Re: heat (water wetter)
Perhaps it's not a problem for the GTS or Yamahas, but there are heavily documented issues regarding several Honda motorcycles that had pump failures on automotive antifreeze. Gold Wings in particularly are frequently affected. It's enough of a problem that I would use motorcycle anti-freeze in all my bikes (okay, not the air-cooled ones). Jay In a message dated 7/3/00 8:44:17 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have not heard of different properties for Mc and automotive applications.
Re: heat (water wetter)
Is Honda still in business?
Re: heat (water wetter) - now fluff
Ask Nicky Hayden. My money's on this kid to get the #1 plate next year, then move on to either World Superbike or MotoGP. And don't forget what happened the last time Yamaha tried to be brazen about taking over the number one spot in the m/c biz. (For those who don't remember the '80s, Honda flicked Yamaha off like a fly; then in a gesture of remarkable benevolence gave them a hand up again. The latter was a one-time deal. You don't wanna tick off Big Red.) In a message dated 7/3/00 9:48:19 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Is Honda still in business?
Re: heat (water wetter)
Ok now guys don't get fluffy on me just yet. My understanding of "water wetter" is its supposed to help transfer more heat to the radiator by breaking down the surface tension of the water/coolant. I was also given the impression from the earlier literature on the stuff that it is also compatible with regular antifreeze/coolant. I ran "water wetter" and water in my bike for a track day and noticed it really did seem to run about 10 degrees cooler. Would this not also apply to using water wetter in regular coolant ? Darren
Re: Battery
Thanks, That's good info to have. As usual, this stuff happens to me when I'm in a hurry. I usually react before thinking about it when I rushed. I did put in a new battery in my GTS. Cost of $76.00. When I replaced the battery, I noticed the terminals were loose, so that could be the problem. I should have taken the 5 minutes to tear it down and look at the terminals first. Doing a quick voltage check would have been the next logical thing to do while the battery was exposed. The voltage seemed fine, although the battery is original as best I can tell so a replacement wasn't totally out of line. If I keep telling myself that, I'll feel better about it. Thanks! Dave, 93 GTS Fresno CA - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Multiple recipients of list" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 5:24 AM Subject: Re: Battery On the subject of charging systems and batteries, it is difficult to determine while riding which is causing the problem if you are having a dead battery symptom. One quick and easy way to get an idea if you are getting any out put out of your charging system is to watch the "brightness" of the headlight while the bike is idling, then, rev the engine up a couple thousand RPM's and look for an increase in brightness. Usually, you will see an increase in brightness if the charging system is OK. I have been thinking about this and it appears no one on the list has mentioned ever having to replace a stator or rectifier, which leads me to believe they are pretty reliable. Some other machines, the Nightmare, I mean Vision, has the stator running in oil inside the engine. This design makes it more susceptible to failure because overheated oil breaks down the insulation between the wire windings and shorts out the stator, usually to ground. Rectifiers can have diode failures as well, but this seems to be a result of heat as well. If the stator is trying to compensate for a weak battery, the diodes can get hot and fail. Bear in mind, this is a technician's observation, not an electrical engineer. My laymen's explanation for the rectifier is its purpose in life is to convert the alternating current produced by the stator into direct current so the battery, which is always direct current, DC, can store it. BTW. I am working on inventing a battery that stores AC, a drill that goes in and turns corners, and an aluminum magnet. If you have a volt meter and suspect a failing battery, connect it to your battery then observe the volts as you start the bike. If you have a dramatic drop in volts, the battery is weak. Normally, you would not expect to see more than a couple of volts drop. While you have it hooked up, observe the volts at idle, then, rev the bike slowly up to 4000 or 5000 RPM and see if the volts increase. An increase in volts shows it is charging. RSRBOB Summary, the battery is higher probability than the charging system. Usually cheaper and easier to change out!
Re: heat (water wetter) AntiFreeze
Water wetter can help greatly with diesels--not many diesel bikes though... Something called cavitation erosion. The current "wetters" replace what the EPA forced the anti-freeze makers to take out of the formulation a while ago. The dangerous ingredient (for that "other" bike, at least) in anti-freeze are the silicates. The new orange stuff from Havoline has NO silicates. My personal experience is DO NOT MIX with other anti-freeze. I like it enough to still use it, just make sure you drain the whole system and always replace with the same stuff! What about this? http://www.evanscooling.com/ No water, no pressure, no boil over, etc. Anyone try this stuff? --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Actually, plain water is the best cooling. Problem is it boils and freezes. Water Wetter will help maybe a little, but not much. It doesn't help your system resist corrosion nor does it provide any freezing protection. It might help prevent some boil over better than water. For street use, I'd stick with anti-freeze since it has other worthwhile properties. Mix it with water according to mfg. recommendations. No bike maker recommends water wetter. It's really a temporary solution for the track. I'm not sure about longevity, but would tend to believe anti-freeze is better in that regard too. In a message dated 7/3/00 10:36:18 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My understanding of "water wetter" is its supposed to help transfer more heat to the radiator by breaking down the surface tension of the water/coolant __ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/
Re: heat (water wetter)
Actually, I am inclined to believe their claims. I have seen other products that break surface tension of water. As I read the remember, it is adding an ounce or so per quart. A relative small percentage actually, of the total fluid content is the product. If you are protecting against high temps, you are probably not concerned about freezing over night. Since you are supposed to change coolant periodically anyhow, if you are in a climate where freezing is a problem, then, change to coolant with out water wetter.
Re: heat (water wetter)
Actually, that sounds like a design problem of that given motorcycle, incompatability to me... Not a problem with the coolants, since about everything else out there does not have the problem. I think you should make them recall all affected bikes, and not rest till you bring them to their knees.
Re: heat (water wetter)
The brand is REDLINE, the product is WATER WETTER. It does contain a corrosion inhibitor, I asked. for more information go here: http://www.redlineoil.com/wwti.htm Bill -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, July 03, 2000 2:55 PM Subject: Re: heat (water wetter) snip
Re: heat
On mine GTS the left fan gives more hot air at the fairing outlet than the right fan. So maybe the hot air is bouncing against te frame somewhere, the both sides of the bike are not identical. John Dreuning. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just a curious thing that I just noticed. Have found that the right side portions of the frame work gets noticeably hotter than the left
engine oil
I've been using Amsoil synthetic in the GTS for years, I just switched over to Royal Purple 15w40 synthetic.Have any list members used this product or heard anything about it ?
Re: Tail light question
Had the same problem. I replaced the harness. My cause was corrosion in the sockets. On 3 Jul 2000, at 9:15, Argo, Timothy D. wrote: Over the weekend I noticed something I thought a bit odd. Remembering that the GTS has 2 tail/brake lights side by side. Both of my tail lights come on fine but when you either step on the rear pedal or pull the front lever, the right tail light goes out while the left brake light comes on. I tried switching bulbs, no change. Any ideas? Thanks
