Re: [h-cost] bodice fit question
> I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and > always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam, > the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center > back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back. > If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. > But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting > technique I am missing? The only way I can get a flat back panel is when I'm using a raglan sleeve construction and my neckline is quite low: http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/kampfrau.htm http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/beham.htm http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/annameyer.htm http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/1560.htm this one does have a centre back seam because of contraints in cutting (one blanket for the dress.) The lining and inteerlining however are one piece each. (I do have drafted patterns of each of these, they just aren't online yet.) My curve occurs above the shoulder blades (yay for genetics and prednisone;) ) Luckily the raglan sleeve construction works for this place and time as I have not seen a centre back seam on German dress of this era. If anyone has seen one please forward the address to me as it would ease my mind as I do have a centre back seam on two of them;) I drafted my original pattern by pinning the fabric to my dress form in a straight line down the centre back. I used my hand to smooth the fabric around to the sides and pinned where the side seam would be (pins folloing the direction of the seam.) In shaping the piece it does depend on where you start with the smoothing and where you direct the fabric to, especially with a pronounced curve. You can also lower the back neckline a bit to account for individual shapes. It might make the drafting a bit easier too. You could also make the side back seams curved or make the angles different for each. So you'd pin the fabric at centre back and possibly pin the side panels in place then take fabric from the side edges of the centre back panel. Thing is, if you are achieving a good comfortable fit with what you are doing, just treat other ideas as experimentation. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 28/07/2005 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Elizabeth Young wrote: or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. true, but depending on how much fabric you have to take up, the diameter is not big enough. That's why (after tons of calculations) I went with the 1/4" dowels. I had to involve a certain amount in the ruffle depth (think pleating depth). The gather thread allowed me to pull it in to fit the edge it was being attached to. -Judy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Chris wrote: What a great idea!!! Thank you so much for sharing Judy. no problem. Luckily there was a diagram in one of my Danish costuming books! Only trick is: make sure the dowels are longer than the width of the frame, that way when you wind the fabric over and under them you can pull them taut against the frame. Just don't leave it out to dry somewhere where a cat can investigate! -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: everything - newbie delurking
-Original Message- Two books I have been resourcing from (in addition to the multitude of web pages out there!) are "Medieval Costume in England and France: the 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries" by Mary Houston, and "Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It" by Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions on these two books? [Betsy Marshal] Sorry to be late getting back on this! I recently acquired the Hartley book, and most of her reconstructed examples appear to be from theater/stage designs, so be aware that the appearance may be close to some of the manuscript illos, but the pattern/detail drawings are aimed at getting the "Look" as simply as possible. The original was published in 1931, so does not include the last 70 years of improved research and recent finds. That being said, if you want a decent appearance of medieval garb, you could do worse than to follow some of her examples- (N*rris leaps to mind.) most of the construction is rectangular, rather than fitted, and so will suit many body types over a wider range of size fluctuations than the closely fitted styles of later years. I hope this has been some help, Betsy (Planning at least one of Hartley's clerk's (over)robes for Pennsic- some of us Ansteorrans get a mite chilled that far north!) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Your welcome. I love her work as well. I am not Deredere, I go by De because people have problems pronouncing and spelling my birth name. And since it isn't Debbie, Deloris,..(the norm) etc I choose using De instead of Dee. :) De aka: D'Lisa -Original Message- Hi Deredere, This is fabulous work she has done on her costumes, gosh i drolled of her renaissance dresses. Thanks for sharing the link Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bran
Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a
specific grain type?
Bran is grain husks, not whole grain. Health food stores and Organic
groceries will carry it.
The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with
bran or sawdust. While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I
don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting
together in the next two weeks.
Coarse sawdust can usually be gotten in the pet department, as cage-bottom
stuff for birds or small animals. Also there's a brand of kitty litter
that's compressed sawdust pellets, and crumbles down into very fine
sawdust. The rest of the bag will be very good for kitty litter (it's what
our cats use).
and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits
for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English
and 1570's Italian for just a few of them.
I'm all inspired now. I'd been trying to use wool for stuffing, and it
wasn't working well.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
\\\
-@@\\\
7 )))
((( <>
) ((
/\ /---\))
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than
matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. I think the
ones I have in a drawer are actually bamboo and were sold in the chinese
section of some grocery store.
These are bamboo and make nasty splinters, so be careful.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
\\\
-@@\\\
7 )))
((( <>
) ((
/\ /---\))
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bodice fit question
You probably have seen this but just in case not, http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/florentine.html she has a contact link. Hope this helps, De Hi Deredere, This is fabulous work she has done on her costumes, gosh i drolled of her renaissance dresses. Thanks for sharing the link Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bran
Bran is fed to horse in the form of a mash for a light feeding. You can get bran at a feed store. Wendy -Original Message- From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Jul 29, 2005 1:16 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bran Technically speaking, the bran would have been a waste product left over from processing grain. It would be what was left after cleaning and winnowing. It wouldn't have been the whole grain (wheat, barley, whatever). I suppose you could pop out to the store and buy a box of bran (not bran cereal, just the bran) but it would be easier (and less expensive) to go to your local Lowes, Home Depot, etc and just ask them if you can have the leavings of their wood sawing area. They might look at you a little funny, but I'm sure they'd be happy to get rid of it. Just a thought, Karen Seamstrix -- Alex Doyle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but more of a language question. Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century art/artifacts and records as I can. My base sources include the basic doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or American, and therefore I ask this question. Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a specific grain type? The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with bran or sawdust. While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting together in the next two weeks. and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English and 1570's Italian for just a few of them. alex ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bran
Technically speaking, the bran would have been a waste product left over from processing grain. It would be what was left after cleaning and winnowing. It wouldn't have been the whole grain (wheat, barley, whatever). I suppose you could pop out to the store and buy a box of bran (not bran cereal, just the bran) but it would be easier (and less expensive) to go to your local Lowes, Home Depot, etc and just ask them if you can have the leavings of their wood sawing area. They might look at you a little funny, but I'm sure they'd be happy to get rid of it. Just a thought, Karen Seamstrix -- Alex Doyle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but more of a language question. Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century art/artifacts and records as I can. My base sources include the basic doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or American, and therefore I ask this question. Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a specific grain type? The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with bran or sawdust. While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting together in the next two weeks. and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English and 1570's Italian for just a few of them. alex ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Have you tried asking on one of these three sites? [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] There are 4 locations wear the bodice can be seam. Back, side back, front and side. You probably have seen this but just in case not, http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/florentine.html she has a contact link. Hope this helps, De -Original Message- I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, of the fitted bodice, gathered or pleated skirt, and contrasting sleeves variety (like the ones described on this website and seen in this painting). http://www.geocities.com/kamillavh/01.html http://tinyurl.com/aoyzd (birth of St. John the Baptist by Domenico Ghirlandaio (particularly the woman reaching out for the baby or the servant in the red dress and green sleeves)). I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam, the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back. If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting technique I am missing? This time, I added a c/b seam to my original draft. I took 2 inches total from the neckline, tapering to nothing at the level of the bottom of the armscye, and then an inch from the waist, again tapering to nothing at the armscye. This bodice ends just above my natural waist and has a center front opening. It has slanted side back seams. It is very similar to the bodice draft seen on Drea's site: http://costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/kirtlepat.jpg Thanks liz young ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bran
Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but more of a language question. Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century art/artifacts and records as I can. My base sources include the basic doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or American, and therefore I ask this question. Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a specific grain type? The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with bran or sawdust. While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting together in the next two weeks. and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English and 1570's Italian for just a few of them. alex ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Elizabeth Young wrote: I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back. If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting technique I am missing? You could try taking darts along the top of the neckline in order to produce a curve that fits you, like wise along the waist. Personally, I think using the CB seam is going to be the best way to get you a good looking fit, even if the style doesn't normally have one, because of your unique fitting issues. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Liz, I have a sway back as well. I think the answer is using side front seams. All of my garb has the back on the straight, both with and without CB seams, and I don't have that problem at all. You can use the side front seams to shape the bodice to you and eliminate the gapping. Hope that helps. Sarafina -- The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE http://ladysarafina.home.att.net -- Original message from Elizabeth Young <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: -- > I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, of the fitted bodice, > gathered or pleated skirt, and contrasting sleeves variety (like the > ones described on this website and seen in this painting). > http://www.geocities.com/kamillavh/01.html > http://tinyurl.com/aoyzd (birth of St. John the Baptist by Domenico > Ghirlandaio (particularly the woman reaching out for the baby or the > servant in the red dress and green sleeves)). > > I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and > always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam, > the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center > back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back. > If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. > But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting > technique I am missing? > > This time, I added a c/b seam to my original draft. I took 2 inches > total from the neckline, tapering to nothing at the level of the bottom > of the armscye, and then an inch from the waist, again tapering to > nothing at the armscye. > This bodice ends just above my natural waist and has a center front > opening. It has slanted side back seams. It is very similar to the > bodice draft seen on Drea's site: > http://costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/kirtlepat.jpg > > Thanks > liz young > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] bodice fit question
I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, of the fitted bodice, gathered or pleated skirt, and contrasting sleeves variety (like the ones described on this website and seen in this painting). http://www.geocities.com/kamillavh/01.html http://tinyurl.com/aoyzd (birth of St. John the Baptist by Domenico Ghirlandaio (particularly the woman reaching out for the baby or the servant in the red dress and green sleeves)). I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam, the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back. If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting technique I am missing? This time, I added a c/b seam to my original draft. I took 2 inches total from the neckline, tapering to nothing at the level of the bottom of the armscye, and then an inch from the waist, again tapering to nothing at the armscye. This bodice ends just above my natural waist and has a center front opening. It has slanted side back seams. It is very similar to the bodice draft seen on Drea's site: http://costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/kirtlepat.jpg Thanks liz young ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Kimiko Small wrote: At 09:23 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote: Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available in every supermarket. -Helen/Aidan The only toothpicks I seem to find are the round ones with plasticy things on the ends. I will have to see if I can find more square ones. Thanks for the suggestion. Kimiko or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. I think the ones I have in a drawer are actually bamboo and were sold in the chinese section of some grocery store. liz young ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine women's clothing
Yeah, Levanita is good, but earlier than the 14th century. I'm on the road this week, but I'll take a look at my resources and see what I can find early next week. -- Eirene Tzimiskina Kontostephanina > I apologize if someone else has already posted this -- I'm a little behind > on my e-mails -- but I liked the Levantia website: _www.levantia.com/au_ > (http://www.levantia.com/au) . I think they're a little bit earlier than > 14th > Century, but it's somewhere to start. I acquired a bunch of references for > Byzantium recently by pestering this list, but as I was researching an > earlier > period, most of them probably won't apply. I'll look through my list of > references > again and see if I have anything you'd want. > > Tea Rose > > From: Lynda Boots <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [h-cost] Byzantium women's clothing > > Hi, > > I'm helping a friend research women's apparel in 14th > C. Byzantium. Anything not ecclesiastical or for a > coronation would be appreciated. > > Thanks. > > Lynda > > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
What a great idea!!! Thank you so much for sharing Judy. Chris G. Judy Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Kimiko Small wrote: > That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing > that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think > matchbook types would work.) > Matches might be too small. When I made my Danish day dress (which has a tulle cap with a ruffle pleated this way), I made a long frame sorta like a picture frame and cut a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels. I wanted to use straws, but they weren't sturdy enough. then with the tulle wet I anchored one end to the frame and wound it over a stick on top of the frame, then under a stick beneath the frame, then over a stick on top of the frame... until the length of the ruffle was all wound in and then I let it dry. After it's dry and you take it off the dowels, you can gather it in a little tighter (assuming you ran a gather thread before you started pleating) to fit along the edge you need. Apparently this was the method used at least in the 1860s for ruffling. - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. Learn more. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Kimiko Small wrote: That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think matchbook types would work.) Matches might be too small. When I made my Danish day dress (which has a tulle cap with a ruffle pleated this way), I made a long frame sorta like a picture frame and cut a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels. I wanted to use straws, but they weren't sturdy enough. then with the tulle wet I anchored one end to the frame and wound it over a stick on top of the frame, then under a stick beneath the frame, then over a stick on top of the frame... until the length of the ruffle was all wound in and then I let it dry. After it's dry and you take it off the dowels, you can gather it in a little tighter (assuming you ran a gather thread before you started pleating) to fit along the edge you need. Apparently this was the method used at least in the 1860s for ruffling. -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] No Subject
I think the fashion for piling stuff on your hat came later than the Renaissance. For straw hats, just a simple hatband would be appropriate. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29/07/2005 00:19 >>> I'm interested too...but for Renaissance. We see beautifully decorated hats at Ren Faires, but I don't think I've ever seen big decorated straw hats in pictures - just plain ones. Julie > > I made my own hat! > I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a > hat to go with my bustle gown. > But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated. > Schould I put more stuf on it? > Like ribbons or flowers? > The dress is very simple... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email __ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
