[h-cost] custom taxes

2005-10-25 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews


I have found, from my experience, that smaller and lighter packets are
less likely to get noticed by Customs. Under a certain weight and it
doesn't even require a customs form. YMMV.

Some time back i had exchanged goods with people from an embroidery list. I 
sended purses, and in exchange i received silk embroidery threads. Went very 
well, without the custom. I had parcels from USA, New Zealand and Germany. 
They also had no problems with customs.


Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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[h-cost] Re: holiday idea

2005-10-25 Thread Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth
Although I tend to lurk very quietly here, I'd love to join the holiday 
exchange.
 
I'm in the UK, and have had very few problems sending and receiving stuff from 
the US via customs.  Given that the value is will be clearly written on any 
customs slip as $10 or less, and a gift, we shouldn't be liable for anything.  
Of course, it's worth more to us and those that know what our time is worth, 
but we don't have to tell customs this!
 
So count me in.
 
Just a thought - should we say our strengths as well, so the organiser knows 
what we're likely to want to do.  Tablet weaving, for example.
 
Freyalyn, in Yorkshire, England.


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Re: [h-cost] dipping silk in cold water

2005-10-25 Thread elena_o_tighearnaigh
Hello, I've done a few gowns out of 'regular' (as opposed to moire) taffeta for 
my eldest daughter, but not silk taffeta.  I've discovered that with taffeta  
if I wash the whole thing in water (not in the washer or the whole thing is a 
wrinkled mess), it doesn't lose it's crispness or sheen in my eyes.  But if you 
put just a bit of water on it (like in spot cleaning) the spot is visibly 
obvious and (I think) I've not figured out a way to get that spot out, once 
it's there.  Even after washing it.  

My experiences with silk specifically, is with China silk, 'silk' velvet , raw 
silk and duponi.  China Silk and Silk velvet washes up beautifully if carefully 
hand washed.   Washing raw silk make the fabric 'stiffer'. Duponi loses it's 
sheen, becomes fairly stiff and loses it's resiliency for wear and tear.  

Just my .02 worth...

Elena/Gia

-- Original message -- 

 Hi, 
 Just wondered, what will happen if a silk taffeta was dipped in cold water? 
 Would it get spoiled? 
 Thoaght about the water solluble solution for transfer of embroidering 
 pattern to silk. 
 I could try a small sampler, but thoaght some of you already tryed? 
 
 Bjarne 
 
 
 
 
 
 Leif og Bjarne Drews 
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
 
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Re: holiday idea

2005-10-25 Thread AnnBWass
Well, I think the response is overwhelming.  The list would like to  give the 
gift exchange a try.  May I respectfully suggest that we now let  the 
organizer decide how she is going to do it, then await her instructions as  to 
how we 
give her our information?
 
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] a holliday idea

2005-10-25 Thread E House

(I'm in, too.)

It might be handy if, on the list of info we give about ourselves, we 
included our pattern size, because surely patterns are one of those things 
that most people have sitting around unused in their sewing stash.  Or, 
since there are so many pattern sizing systems, especially when you're 
dealing with an international list, include some basic measurements.


And along those lines, if you're male but go by a name that requires some 
knowledge of your period or culture if one wants to determine the gender, 
let us know!  I don't remember running into that on this list, but on a few 
other lists I've assumed that someone whose email came from his Welsh 
persona name was female when he definitely wasn't. Embarrassing.


-E House

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[h-cost] Re: holiday idea

2005-10-25 Thread Catherine Kinsey
 how much would I have to slip you to make sure that Bjarne is my gift

exchange?
===
So how about if we *all* have Bjarne's name?  

And of course then he gets all of ours :)?

Catherine
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Re: [h-cost] my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread ruthanneb
These colors are wonderful together, Bjarne--and using the taffeta is very 
resourceful. Can't wait to see the finished suit!
How is your wrist healing, by the way?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 25, 2005 9:02 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] my new suit

Hi,
I have uploaded a picture of the silks i want to use on the new suit. First 
to the right is the ribbed silk, second is a silk taffeta wich is very close 
to the colour of the ribbed silk, wich i will make a border of each side of 
the jacket to embroider on. It is very difficult to embroider on the ribbed 
silk, so that is why i use the taffeta. Finally to the right is the dark 
grey silk taffeta for the waistcoat.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mixedsilksuit..htm
Bjarme





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] dipping silk in cold water

2005-10-25 Thread Lalah
And just one other note - don't wad the fabric up.  Every crease will be 
permanent.  Good luck!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 19:33:43 -0400
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dipping silk in cold water

 Just wondered, what will happen if a silk taffeta was dipped in cold 
 water?
 Would it get spoiled?

Spoiled no. But you'd probably lose some of the shine and crispness. It 
works well on any kind of silk I've tried (though I've never tied taffeta). 
Fix your dye with vinegar though, or use silk specific dye. You might also 
want to try with a little more than a small sample, something big enough 
to judge changes in the way fabric will drape, because that can change after 
the fabric got wet. 
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[h-cost] 19th Century Fashion in Detail

2005-10-25 Thread Abel, Cynthia
 

 I just got 19th Century Fashion in Detail by Lucy Johnston from
Amazon.com and it is worth every penny. For those of us on the U.S. side
of the pond, it is a companion volume to Fashion in Detail(17th and 18th
centuries)and the photographed fashions(from the VA collections)are
every bit as drool worthy. The format is the same as the previous book
and the World Fashion in Detail(I don't own both have seen this one):
The left-hand page has a complete description and line drawing of an
entire garmet or garmets. The right hand side of the page has a stunning
full-color view of a detail and sometimes the entire garment or
garments. The book covers men's and women's fashions, including shoes.
It is divided into the usual sections like the other books that are a
little offbeat as it is subjects, not strictly chronological.  On the
cover is a stunning magenta bustle dress of the mid 1870's that lovers
of the bustle era will itch to copy. The dress is actually three pieces
with two separate bodices which was pretty common among surviving
dresses of the last half of the 19th c, and has both a back view of one
bodice and a side view of the entire ensemble. One bodice is for day and
the other a dinner(not short sleeved formal ball)bodice.

Get this as a Christmas gift for self or a friend who loves beautiful
surviving fashions.

Cindy Abel

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Re: [h-cost] dipping silk in cold water

2005-10-25 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 10/25/2005 5:47:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Duponi  loses it's sheen, becomes fairly stiff and loses it's resiliency for 
wear and  tear.  



I dyed down a dark with white stripes [to tone down the  contrast] dupioni in 
HOT water in the machine and it looked exactly  the same when it came 
outbut now had a soft hand. Mind you it wasn't  particularly shiny to start 
with.
 
Made an early 1840s gown out of it.
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Re: [h-cost] my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread AlbertCat
Lov-er-ly!
 
I was just thinkingit's important, I think, to make sure somehow that  
the appliqued embroidery looks, without a doubt, that it was MEANT to be  
appliqued.
 
Y'know what I mean?
 
I'm not sure how this can be achieved, but somehow the applique process  must 
be part of the embroidery process too. Maybe some element, leaves or fruit  
or something, can be the quilted taffeta. Or appliqued lace is also  
incorporated. [I don't mean to design things for you, I'm just thinking out  
loud]
 
In Fashion in Detail somewhere is some embroidery on a waistcoat  that is 
made up of multiple techniquesan appliqued lace with embroidery over  it 
and sequins or something like that.
 
Am I making sense? I just don't want someone to look at your suit and think  
Oh he took the embroidery off a bed hanging and applied it to the coat. It  
must look like it was meant to be appliqued from the start.
 
Then of course you have to do it to the waistcoat.  :-P
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Re: [h-cost] my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread Sue Clemenger
Oooh, Bjarne, they look just yummy! What kind of colors will you be using
for the embroidery?
--Sue, thinking Bjarne must be the best dressed guy in Denmark

- Original Message -
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 7:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] my new suit


 Hi,
 I have uploaded a picture of the silks i want to use on the new suit.
First
 to the right is the ribbed silk, second is a silk taffeta wich is very
close
 to the colour of the ribbed silk, wich i will make a border of each side
of
 the jacket to embroider on. It is very difficult to embroider on the
ribbed
 silk, so that is why i use the taffeta. Finally to the right is the dark
 grey silk taffeta for the waistcoat.
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mixedsilksuit..htm


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Re: [h-cost] a holiday idea

2005-10-25 Thread Tania Gruning
I would like to be part too.
 
Tania

Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Oh, yeah. Put me down, too.

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi,
Yes i know exactly what you have in mind, have ben thinking about adding a 
fine mesh tulle into the taffeta and make an embroidered border of a ribbon 
between the ribbed and the taffeta. I am making embroidery drafts in the 
evenings. Also got a box full of hand twisted Mulberry silk threads, wich i 
want to use for the embroidery, together sith flosses from Eterna and 
Scallamandre. And and and, also tiny tiny silver spangels from Hedgehog.
But i force myself to work on the chenille dress, and i have made quite a 
progress, finished all the embroidery and are sewing on the bullion 
trimmings. I wont start the embroidery of this jacket untill i have 
finnished thisdress. Ill post some pictures of the yellow dress soon.


Bjarne
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new suit



Lov-er-ly!

I was just thinkingit's important, I think, to make sure somehow that
the appliqued embroidery looks, without a doubt, that it was MEANT to be
appliqued.

Y'know what I mean?

I'm not sure how this can be achieved, but somehow the applique process 
must

be part of the embroidery process too. Maybe some element, leaves or fruit
or something, can be the quilted taffeta. Or appliqued lace is also
incorporated. [I don't mean to design things for you, I'm just thinking 
out  loud]


In Fashion in Detail somewhere is some embroidery on a waistcoat  that 
is
made up of multiple techniquesan appliqued lace with embroidery over 
it

and sequins or something like that.

Am I making sense? I just don't want someone to look at your suit and 
think
Oh he took the embroidery off a bed hanging and applied it to the coat. 
It

must look like it was meant to be appliqued from the start.

Then of course you have to do it to the waistcoat.  :-P
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Re: [h-cost] my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Sue,
I am forceing myself to work on the stumpwork dress, it must be made first.
But i have gotten a box full of wonderfull collours from Mulberry silk and 
ill post pictures soon.
My every day clothes are not worth writing about, i dont give a damn about 
how i look, as long as it is clean clothes, i am happy.


Bjarne

Bjarne
- Original Message - 
From: Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new suit



Oooh, Bjarne, they look just yummy! What kind of colors will you be using
for the embroidery?
--Sue, thinking Bjarne must be the best dressed guy in Denmark

- Original Message -
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 7:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] my new suit



Hi,
I have uploaded a picture of the silks i want to use on the new suit.

First

to the right is the ribbed silk, second is a silk taffeta wich is very

close

to the colour of the ribbed silk, wich i will make a border of each side

of

the jacket to embroider on. It is very difficult to embroider on the

ribbed

silk, so that is why i use the taffeta. Finally to the right is the dark
grey silk taffeta for the waistcoat.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mixedsilksuit..htm



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[h-cost] Male or Female Name Was :a holliday idea

2005-10-25 Thread Red Bear
Trust me it does not have to be any place but the good old USA for there 
to be problems.  I am Stephen on most list, Red Bear on others.  And I 
still get people who think I must be a Stephenie, just because I am into 
clothes.  They have been rather surprised to find out that I am 6' 2 
tall with a 53  chest, and a full red beard.


So for the record I am male, so is Bjarne, and what Teddy is, if he 
were still on the list is up for grabs.  GRIN


Stephen
E House wrote:


(I'm in, too.)

And along those lines, if you're male but go by a name that requires 
some knowledge of your period or culture if one wants to determine the 
gender, let us know!  I don't remember running into that on this list, 
but on a few other lists I've assumed that someone whose email came 
from his Welsh persona name was female when he definitely wasn't. 
Embarrassing.


-E House

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Re: [h-cost] Male or Female Name Was :a holliday idea

2005-10-25 Thread E House
- Original Message - 
From: Red Bear [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Trust me it does not have to be any place but the good old USA for there 
to be problems.  I am Stephen on most list, Red Bear on others.  And I 
still get people who think I must be a Stephenie, just because I am into 
clothes.  They have been rather surprised to find out that I am 6' 2 tall 
with a 53  chest, and a full red beard.


Good point!  With Stephen I'd never have thought Stephenie, but with Red 
Bear I'd have played the odds and guessed wrong.  I always go by my first 
initial, so most people guess I'm male (I'm not) until I've posted a few 
times.


(Nice to have you on the list, by the way.  There's a whole lot more garb 
guys out there than are represented on this list; wish we had more.)


-E(lena) House 


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[h-cost] Re: my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread Kahlara
Ohh! Those colors look absolutely gorgeous together!
 
Annette M


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 15:02:17 +0200
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
Subject: [h-cost] my new suit

Hi,
I have uploaded a picture of the silks i want to use on the new suit. First 
to the right is the ribbed silk, second is a silk taffeta wich is very close 
to the colour of the ribbed silk, wich i will make a border of each side of 
the jacket to embroider on. It is very difficult to embroider on the ribbed 
silk, so that is why i use the taffeta. Finally to the right is the dark 
grey silk taffeta for the waistcoat.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mixedsilksuit..htm
Bjarme

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 

--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 10:43:28 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new suit

Lov-er-ly!

I was just thinkingit's important, I think, to make sure somehow that 
the appliqued embroidery looks, without a doubt, that it was MEANT to be 
appliqued.

Y'know what I mean?

I'm not sure how this can be achieved, but somehow the applique process must 
be part of the embroidery process too. Maybe some element, leaves or fruit 
or something, can be the quilted taffeta. Or appliqued lace is also 
incorporated. [I don't mean to design things for you, I'm just thinking out 
loud]

In Fashion in Detail somewhere is some embroidery on a waistcoat that is 
made up of multiple techniquesan appliqued lace with embroidery over it 
and sequins or something like that.

Am I making sense? I just don't want someone to look at your suit and think 
Oh he took the embroidery off a bed hanging and applied it to the coat. It 
must look like it was meant to be appliqued from the start.

Then of course you have to do it to the waistcoat. :-P


--

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 10:43:21 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new suit

Oooh, Bjarne, they look just yummy! What kind of colors will you be using
for the embroidery?
--Sue, thinking Bjarne must be the best dressed guy in Denmark


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[h-cost] leg o' mutton sleeves

2005-10-25 Thread Kathryn Parke
Please forgive me if this comes through twice!
 
Since there was a recent discussion on the list about leg o' mutton sleeves, I 
thought you might be interested in seeing this lovely example currently on eBay:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:US:1Item=8344957062
 
I was suprised to see in the back view that the puff is joined to a second, 
flat piece, rather than being puffed all the way around (showing my ignorance, 
I'm sure).  I think of that more as men's tailoring, so it was interesting to 
me to see it applied here.  
 
KP
 
 


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