[h-cost] period fastenings again
At first, I'd like to thank everybody who gave me an advice about this topic, it helped a lot and made me to search for more and more information - that's actually why I'm writing again: I've found a few web pages on this topic which might be helpful to those who are interested, too. The last one is a message board only on this topic. VERY recommended:-)) Zuzana http://inventors.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.white%2Denterprises.org/EDUCATE/buttons.html http://inventors.about.com/library/weekly/aa082497.htm http://inventors.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.aarf.com/febutt98.htm http://inventors.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.florilegium.org/files/CLOTHING/fasteners%2Dmsg.html - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] various fashion and black color
As you were talking about black, I remembered a movie about Nero - I don't remember when it was made, I guess in the 90s, but that's not so important. The movie was really, really bad and the thing that got me into thinking was that when somebody of tyhe emperor's family died, all people were then wearing black as an expression of sadness. The thing is, I think I read somewhere that black started to be a mourning dress color in the 16th century and that it was kind of invented by one woman who's name I unfortunately don't remember. But that's all a long time ago and I might be wrong. Anyway, does anybody know something about that? Was it possible in Nero's period to wear a black mourning dress? Many thanks Zuzana - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified
As to it's not showing much evidence of wear--another alternative is that the bride died not too long after the wedding. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 00:48:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified Im a goober. *LOL* In my enthusiasm I kinda FORGOT to mention the fundamental information: What underwear collection are you talking about? The collection is referred to as the Sicilian Brides' Trousseau Whose was it, No one is quite sure on an individual level. It has some kind of connection to a convent, but it's not quite clear to me what that connection really is. They figure it likely was a middle/lower class girl whom had learned to sew at the convent. I'm still not entirely certain of this connection though. It simply is a collection of under and night garments made by likely one person, a possible second one helping out, meant for a bride. However I see no evidence of any of it ever being used for more than a short period of time. Either that wedding was some special or she never got married. where was it made, It is classified generally in previously printed materials as 16th c. Italian but it's actually 16th c. Sicily. Arnold features a photo of the drawers in QEWU and the Cunningtons in History of Underwear, amongst others. and where is it currently located? The Metropolitan Museum of New York, Costume Institute currently holds it. My apologies for my ever exuberance. : Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert It?s never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] various fashion
Re the color black, some of you might find the chapter on Black in Anne Hollander's book Seeing Through Clothes to be very interesting..I myself have found the book to be very fascinating as well as useful for the social historian, in general. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: People wear black because it reflects the mood of the times. The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with safe neutral colors. As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State Dinners or Coronations. :) Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem. And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe issues. ) Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion business. Joannah ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ --- Five Rivers Chapmanry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kimiko, Ah! Another square peg! How delightful! You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm going for. And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined, thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag. Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the few number of special functions I attend. And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a bit of trim. Voila. Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords I purchased from Penningtons. Argh. Regards, Lorina _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French seams
At 13:33 26/02/2006, you wrote: Thank you. That is earlier than I have been able to find also. What country was the garment from? While I'm glad to see an attempt at finishing raw edges and seams in SCA costuming, almost no one seems (pun, sorry) to do period appropriate finishes... even if they stitch it by hand. Beth At 12:08 AM 2/26/2006, you wrote: Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:02:59 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer fabric. Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early. Ann Wass I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably English, but I seem to remember that the seams were finished. Some were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If they are french seams I could photograph it for you. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] various fashion
See? Progress in small increments! And you are warm, too! Hope you are feeling better. Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On Feb 26, 2006, at 2:29 AM, Carmen Beaudry wrote: (snip) How about wearing everyday clothing from your chosen time period? Not as much fun as a ball gown, but... Just think, people may think you are making a statement or you are just weird. At least it would be a good weird. Susan I've been doing something along those lines this winter. We've had a rather cold winter(by Pacific NW standards, ok, we don't have real winters here) and my fibromyalgia, arthritis and recent surgery have made me feel the cold rather badly. I have had my normal winter uniform of leggings under long skirts and boots, topped with layered sweaters just hasn't been working. For one thing, the fibro has been acting up enough that I can't stand to have most of my leggings next to my skin. So, I pulled out my 17th century drawers and long hose and petticoats and find that I am toasty warm, and the local Goth kids think I look cool and want to know where I got my stuff. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Cossack coat
Is Folkwear's Cossack pattern still available? In a word, no. Sigh. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French seams
Thanks Suzi. I would appreciate it. Beth Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:10:34 + From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably English, but I seem to remember that the seams were finished. Some were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If they are french seams I could photograph it for you. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French seams
At 16:28 26/02/2006, you wrote: Thanks Suzi. I would appreciate it. Beth Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:10:34 + From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably English, but I seem to remember that the seams were finished. Some were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If they are french seams I could photograph it for you. Suzi I cannot seem to get mail to your private address. And this list does not allow pictures. Please mail me off list so I can send pix when I have taken them. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Cossack coat
Watch it! I made one of those! It was dark gray wool, had princess seams, and I put a real Persian lamb collar on it. No worries, Ann. I plan to make mine from dark chocolate cashmere and mink on the collar. I have a lovely black mink and sable fur hat, round crown and big brim, that looks vaguely Russian or Mongolian, so I would like to build a coat to go with it. I wear the hat all the time in the winter. Very warm. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Sorry about the late reply. You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see details by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture. http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabethobject=40row=4detail=magnify Hope this helps. Joannah ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ --- Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are attached. There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice or is it attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One description said the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What under layer? Was it attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it except for the poofs of white. I found a pdf of the costume by Nina . It has a white chemise with blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know. Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what she is talking about in this portrait. Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood? I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it myself. I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand. _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
Ladies, It seems that with all this talent and frustration, it is time for a true real size and quality oriented person to start a business that caters to the one- size doesn't fit all group. If women knew there was quality and fit, as well as style available, don't you think they would respond favorably and make someone happy as well as rich?! Ebay comes to mind as an inexpensive marketing tool to reach the masses. Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On Feb 26, 2006, at 8:55 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote: One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem. And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe issues. ) Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion business. Joannah ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ --- Five Rivers Chapmanry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kimiko, Ah! Another square peg! How delightful! You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm going for. And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined, thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag. Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the few number of special functions I attend. And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a bit of trim. Voila. Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords I purchased from Penningtons. Argh. Regards, Lorina _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
Yup... Coni Almaden-Crawford, at http://www.fashionpatterns.com/ gives seminars on patternmaking and draping and has a pattern line based on the figure of a mature woman. The seminar she gave here in Fresno was *really* informative, and I got a lot out of it (bought both her books, too). Roger Joannah Hansen wrote: One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem. And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe issues. ) Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
At 08:28 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote: It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most problems. Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever seen. Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?) slum it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of professional networking going on, most dress better than that. Trying to find clothes that look somewhat professional, that I can work in all day, with variations for unpredictable climatic conditions (one year it was up to 90 on the first week of May) and that I already own makes me crazy! It's so much easier to dress in costume! Janet Hi Janet, I am not sure if it would work for you, but I am remembering seeing Prof. Tara McGinnis at Costume College for her lecture on photography and costumes. She was dressed in a nice black frock-coat with a white shirt I think, and dark pants, with her hair pulled back a bit, iirc. It was that coat that was just the perfect period accent to an otherwise modern getup. I have her photo around here somewhere, but not online. And just in writing this, I may have to make something similar for myself, although frock coats are not my period. hth, Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006, JAMES OGILVIE wrote: It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most problems. Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever seen. Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?) slum it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of professional networking going on, most dress better than that. In my experience, most of the people in jeans and tee shirts are (a) graduate students, (b) spouses, (c) hobbyists/independents such as SCA members, (d) vendors, and (e) local residents (who, I believe, are allowed free attendance to the conference). Not to say that all of these people wear jeans and t-shirts -- not at all -- but that if you see that look, it's almost certainly on one of these. The overwhelming majority of faculty members wear nice casual. For the women, that's casual dresses, or slacks or skirts with blouses/sweaters. A sizable number of the men wear ties, often with casual jackets; suits are rarer. People who are presenting papers often dress up more on their presentation day. I have always made it a point to dress on the nicer end because, as an independent scholar, I needed to send signals that would suggest I'm here on business rather than I'm just here for fun -- and my hair is distinctly nonprofessional and nonconservative, so I have to balance it! I wear casual dresses with cardigans, skirts and sweaters or shells with blazers, and often a suit when I present papers or preside over sessions. Because I work at home, conference wear is the closest thing I have to office clothes. I try to sew a new outfit or two each year so I'm not always showing up in the same clothes every time, but I confess there are certain packable outfits that end up in my Kalamazoo suitcase year after year. This year I have a new dress half-finished and a vest-and-skirt outfit partly cut out. We'll see if either of them get done before the Congress -- I have a lot of other things to do in the next two months. About that vest-and-skirt outfit: I am tempted to cut the skirt as culottes, so I can use a line I heard by Shelly Nordtorp-Madson years ago. She stood up in front of a room full of mixed British and American costume scholars and said Since I'm going to be addressing the issue of terminology, I was tempted to dress for this paper in knickers and a vest. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006, Kathy Page wrote: I think that's it for now, I hope I have taken care of the immediate burning questions. I so far have approximate yardage requirements and cutting layouts scribbled out. Next will be to stew the rest of the information into something more palatable and to make mock ups to confirm my theories. Once that's done... I'll be ready to start writing it into a final finding paper. :-D Which you will be presenting ... where? A broad hit brought to you by the organizer of the Dress and Textiles track at the International Congress on Medieval Studies at Kalamazoo. (And yes, it's a very good idea to present before you publish. It's like a first layer of peer review.) --Robin == Robin Netherton Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles [EMAIL PROTECTED] voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1333 Life is just a bowl of queries. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward to: Underwear Mythbusting. Kathy, I finally was able to look at the pictures on Bella's website and see what you were talking about in your post. How totally cool that you were able to find out this info for yourself but also share it with us! Thanks! And I will certainly buy your book when it comes out ;~ Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Cossack coat
Katheryne, Yep, know Reconstructing History very well. We carry Kass's line of patterns in our online catalogue. :-) Failing all else, I'll use the kontusz for the Cossack coat. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Cossack Coat and other topics
Have you looked at Vogue 1266 or 7979 for your coat pattern? For something to wear at Kalamazoo--how about one of Reconstructing History's Elizabethan jackets over a pair of pants? Speaking of square pegs--I'm just over 5'2'' and most of the 35 excess pounds I carry are in the mid section. What fits in the waist is way too big elsewhere. Oh to be a pear rather than an apple, life would be much easier. My other pet peeve with current fashion is the lack of reasonably priced clothes for older women. My Mom is 88 yrs old and about 100 lbs. Try finding something petite enough but still covered up. A lot of her older friends have problems finding dresses with sleeves and longer skirts. I think there is a real niche market there as more and more people are living active lives into there 80's and 90's. Anna von Argenthal ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified
Thanks! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kathy Page Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:08 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified Sharon, I believe that the Realm of Venus website has a couple of the photos scanned from these books: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold The History of Underclothes by Cunnington (a husband and wife team) There are a couple of other smaller publications as well, one in German I believe. I have literally hundreds of photos of this collection, but since I intend to publish at some point, I am confined by their copyright. Until I know exactly what their limits are, I can't show off my new prized possessions. I am hoping I can draw images from the photos to avoid copyright chaos. I plan on contacting their images department to sort that out soon. Kathy Having recently joined the group, Where can I see pics of this underwear? Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert It's never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
At 23:44 26/02/2006, you wrote: obviously doens't apply to all, but bravissimo in the UK (bras in cups D and above) have been doing clothing for a while now, and their suits are a godsend if you're of ample bosom(!!!), and have the old 'if it fits on the waist it gapes over the chesr' thing. They come in normal sizes, with an extra sizing of curvy and super curvy, dependant on cup size. I just wish they'd expand the normal sizes they cover up a bit (I'm about the top end, and I'm only a UK size 16, (not counting chest!) so not *that* huge. but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is 'large'). I am always cutting 6 off the bottoms of things because I am an American size 20/22, and only 5'4, not the Amazonian height Debs complains of. Also I don't have huge shoulders, just 'cos I take a D cup!! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French seams
Sorry I don't remember for sure which collection it was. I think it was American, but am not sure. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 07:33:42 -0600 Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams Thank you. That is earlier than I have been able to find also. What country was the garment from? While I'm glad to see an attempt at finishing raw edges and seams in SCA costuming, almost no one seems (pun, sorry) to do period appropriate finishes... even if they stitch it by hand. Beth At 12:08 AM 2/26/2006, you wrote: Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:02:59 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer fabric. Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Cossack coat
Oh, mine was really something. The lining was a (GASP!) gray cable pattern bonded knit--I think I chose that primarily for low cost, but also for warmth. The only thing that would have been worse is if it had been maxi length. -Original Message- From: Five Rivers Chapmanry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 10:55:08 -0500 Subject: [h-cost] RE: Cossack coat Watch it! I made one of those! It was dark gray wool, had princess seams, and I put a real Persian lamb collar on it. No worries, Ann. I plan to make mine from dark chocolate cashmere and mink on the collar. I have a lovely black mink and sable fur hat, round crown and big brim, that looks vaguely Russian or Mongolian, so I would like to build a coat to go with it. I wear the hat all the time in the winter. Very warm. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] (no subject)
-Original Message- I don't need an insurance inventory, fortunately! Well, everybody might need to claim insurance some day. My in-laws' house burned down in the firestorm in the East Bay some years ago, and it turned out their policy required listing every single item they wanted to claim, down to the skillets and the towels--along with current values. I'm well aware how much work that is, because I did most of it. I'd like to second that. I learned that hard lesson after the San Diego fires in 2003. The insurance company expected us to list each and every item we'd lost AND give them an idea of what they were worth. They also wanted to see the burned carcasses or photos of same. They had a hard time believing $1000 for a tent and hundreds for period camping furniture. Fortunately the books weren't touched. Julie in Ramona/San Diego ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
Ditto-but I am 5'2 Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On Feb 26, 2006, at 6:52 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote: I am always cutting 6 off the bottoms of things because I am an American size 20/22, and only 5'4, not the Amazonian height Debs complains of. Also I don't have huge shoulders, just 'cos I take a D cup!! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified
Well frankly, since this is my first crack at the really serious, I know what I'd *like* to do with it just not quite sure how to achieve the goal. That's kinda where my mentor steps in and starts pointing in the right directions. *grins big at Susan* Hope your cat herding skills are sharp. ;-) I want to start smaller first; I have my Bocksten Bog Man paper written a couple years ago that I would like to modify into publishable format through TI or CA (SCA publications for those not involved in the group) and see if hard core editing of my blood sweat and tears is something I can handle. I also need a fast and dirty lesson or two on publishing issues and copyright laws. That is a completely foreign language to me. The Met are aware of my goals and weren't shocked by them, which is a positive step in the right direction. I have little clue what K'zoo will expect out of a presentation - but yes, that is one of my goals. I've already been told that going just as a spectator to get a grip of how things are done first is my best bet, so I hope to wind up there this year. By that time, I should be part way through stewing this stuff into something palatable and still able to modify the current draft to better fit expectations. I should know if I am able to present at the following year right about the time you are organising things. :-) Ultimately, I do want this published so that those who can't necessarily see this stuff in person can run with it based on clinical evidence. Once that's done... I'll be ready to start writing it into a final finding paper. :-D Which you will be presenting ... where? snip (And yes, it's a very good idea to present before you publish. It's like a first layer of peer review.) I giggled like a school girl when I read this. That is the best encouragement I could get. *big grin* And I will certainly buy your book when it comes out ;~ Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert Its never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: sizing/quality of clothing
I'm on the other end - plus size but tall (5' 11). If it comes in talls, it only goes to U.S. size 16 or 18. Almost none of the plus sizes come in talls. In fact, they're often shorter in arm and leg than non-plus sizes, and the armholes are so big they cover half the bust as well. Which means when you raise your arm, the whole thing hikes up. Then with the obsession with putting spandex in everything, and cutting it shorter in the hem as well, leaves me with midriff tops that show every bulge. Yuck!! I was SO happy when my workplace went to casual dress. I now live in knit pants and either T-shirts, polo shirts, or sweatshirts, depending on weather. We may even wear shorts in summer. I own 'one' pair of jeans, and that purchased only recently when I found a catalog that had Plus Talls. I buy men's coats and casual shirts to get the length. I do wish that there was SOMETHING available that was stylish and comfortable for us plus sizes. I don't make everyday clothes because I sew very slowly and barely get the needed costumes done. Thanks for listening to my rant. Sandy At 11:06 PM 2/26/2006, you wrote: Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 18:44:57 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is 'large'). debs From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing I am always cutting 6 off the bottoms of things because I am an American size 20/22, and only 5'4, not the Amazonian height Debs complains of. Also I don't have huge shoulders, just 'cos I take a D cup!! Suzi Those Who Fail To Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -- Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C.Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sizing/quality of clothing
Sandy, I hear you girl! I wear a 14 or 16 depending on the cut. I am 5' 10. I have been buying men's pants and shirts for years. You can dress them up to make them look feminine. Women's pants are too short in length and the sleeves are too short. The other day I heard on a fashion show that 12 is considered a plus size. I think I was born a size 12 in clothing and shoes. Actually I crammed my feet into size 10 until a few years. Now I could find size 12 shoes at places like DSW. Most people look at me and think or ask if I wear a size 0 or 2. I am not round but wide and thin. I weigh the most I have every weighed and people still think I am underweight. My 5 y.o. granddaughter is going to have the same problem. She has my long legs and arms. Tonight I pulled her pants up because they were falling off of her. She said, Grandma, I can never get pants to work right. They are either too short or too big in the waist. Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
