[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 563

[Debloughcostumes]

In a message dated 8/5/06 7:01:36 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> [h-cost] Pattern making books
> 

metric pattern cutting by winifred aldwych (sp??)

as the title suggests, it's in centimetres, etc, but it's a standard text (in 
the uk at least), and the patterns (and blocks) are quite simple (once you 
get over the scary look of the thing!!) pretty much foolproof if you can do 
basic geometry and maths.

I started using it when I was about 11 and found it in the local library, so 
it can't be that hard!  it was later a required text for my university course.

only thing I'll say is don't trust the standard sizes in the size charts - 
they're based on the british standard, which is way out of date.
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[h-cost] Re: Pattern Making Books

[Lavolta Press]

years ago. But they don't sell only magazines, they also sell books - 
f.ex. book on making evening dresses. These books are actually 
collections from the magazines in which there was a section on the 
corresponding topic. The good
 new is that they have books on costumes, too! One for women's costume 
and one for men's. The periods they cover are all from renaissance to 
the beginning of the 20th century. The patterns out there are 
surprisingly good and the final shape looks quite period, the seams are 
all on the good places and the shape of the pattern pieces looks very 
accurate. There are, of course, little mistakes, but not very significant.

-
Could you post the titles, authors, and any other relevant publication 
data on the books?

---
  I've once found an ordering/subscription card and all the books and 
things you may purchase from them on the internet, but I think it isn't 
there any more or at least I can't find it. Again, if very interested, I 
could scan it for you, or send it to you by post.

--
Yes, thanks.
-


Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Costume Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] Pattern making books

[Zuzana Kraemerova]

I know some very, very good source I've once briefly mentioned on this list 
before. It's all in German, however, but once you know the principe you don't 
really need to read the instructions, you just look at the pictures.
  It is a monthly magazine issued by a clothing academy in Münich (Deutsche 
Bekleidungsakademie München) called "Rundschau", which is probably the only 
magazine which concentrates on patternmaking. There are two magazines: one for 
women, one for men. In each issue, there are about 15 pages on patternmaking 
and the rest tells you about contemporary fashion, designers, modern techniques 
and general news for professional tailors. The pattern section itself teaches 
you how to make all sorts of clothes reaching from basic patterns for dress, 
trousers and skirts to very special items like ballet dress or even historical 
costume. Unfortunately, the costume part was more fashionable in the past than 
today, I think the latest costume part came out about ten years ago. But they 
don't sell only magazines, they also sell books - f.ex. book on making evening 
dresses. These books are actually collections from the magazines in which there 
was a section on the corresponding topic. The good
 new is that they have books on costumes, too! One for women's costume and one 
for men's. The periods they cover are all from renaissance to the beginning of 
the 20th century. The patterns out there are surprisingly good and the final 
shape looks quite period, the seams are all on the good places and the shape of 
the pattern pieces looks very accurate. There are, of course, little mistakes, 
but not very significant. 
  I purchased the women's costume book and I'm now waiting for it to get to the 
CZ, so I could then maybe scan one page or so for you to get an idea about what 
it is, if you were interested.
  The only problem is that they do not explain in each issue what do all the 
measurements mean and how to take them, and they tell you the instructions 
about how to make the slopes only once in about three years. And you have to 
learn their system, which may seem quite complicated on the first sight, but is 
actually quite nice when you get into it:-)) Well, if you were VERY interested, 
I think I could help you there a bit...
   
  Unfortunately, they don't have any real website, but here you can find some 
general info (in DE): 
http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67
  I've once found an ordering/subscription card and all the books and things 
you may purchase from them on the internet, but I think it isn't there any more 
or at least I can't find it. Again, if very interested, I could scan it for 
you, or send it to you by post.
   
  After an extensive search, I think I can afford to say that this source is 
probably the best patternmaking source (of modern fashion) that exists. As for 
historical costume making, I don't really know, but I think it's a real help. 
At least I haven't found anything similar.
   
  Don't hesitate to ask for more details:-))
   
  Zuzana
   
   
   

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RE: [h-cost] Pattern making books

[Kelly Grant]

"The Metric cutting system" books by Winifred Aldrich!  Amazing books!  
There's one for men, one for woen, and another for childern.


Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"

Caius Merlyn Britannicus






From: Michelle Plumb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Pattern making books
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 12:06:00 -0400

Hello, all.

I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be time 
to make a few of my own designs.  I never follow sewing patterns to the 
letter anyway, they're just a launch point.


Can anyone recommend good pattern making books?

Thanks,
Michelle
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Re: [h-cost] Pattern making books

[Chiara Francesca]

Actually ... Vogue patterns has a booklet that you can purchase about this. 
It is pretty damn good. Everyone that I know of that has ever used it loves 
it.


They even have a drafting pattern kit, well, they used to, that would be 
hidden in the very back of the last pattern case in the stores that carries 
their patterns.


Good luck!
Chiara

- Original Message - 
From: "Michelle Plumb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 11:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Pattern making books



Hello, all.

I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be time 
to make a few of my own designs.  I never follow sewing patterns to the 
letter anyway, they're just a launch point.


Can anyone recommend good pattern making books?

Thanks,
Michelle
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[h-cost] Pattern making books

[Michelle Plumb]

Hello, all.

I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be 
time to make a few of my own designs.  I never follow sewing patterns to 
the letter anyway, they're just a launch point.


Can anyone recommend good pattern making books?

Thanks,
Michelle
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Re: [h-cost] white cotton gloves for detail work.

[Judy Mitchell]

Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez wrote:
sadly, I've had to buy white cotton gloves off ebay. I can't seem to 
find any in stores. The price isn't too bad.





	have you tried Vermont country Store? They carry both cotton dress 
gloves, sleeping gloves (not sure what the diffrence is, 0ther than 
price), and a sheer crocheted dress glove. I understand military supply 
places also carry them.





-Judy Mitchell
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[h-cost] white cotton gloves for detail work.

[Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez]

sadly, I've had to buy white cotton gloves off ebay. I can't seem to find 
any in stores. The price isn't too bad.




Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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Re: [h-cost] straight front corset

[Carolyn Kayta Barrows]

However, this beautiful S-shape of the edwardian times can only be 
achieved by such a corset...


It can be faked to some extent by pooching out the front of the bodice or 
shirtwaist, and adding a little fullness to the back of a straight-front 
skirt.  This enhancement seems to have been done in the period, in addition 
to the use of the straight-front corset.



   CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
 www.FunStuft.com

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Re: [h-cost] straight front corset

[Zuzana Kraemerova]

"A friend and I made me a corset from the Past Patterns straight front corset 
pattern. However, it was not a simple/easy project. (...)"
   
  This sounds exactly like I was afraid the pattern might be. As for comfort, I 
know very well that the straight-fronted corsets were actually the most 
uncomfortable and dangerous ones. However, this beautiful S-shape of the 
edwardian times can only be achieved by such a corset...
   
  "In the interest of not being negative...I would like to add that Past  
Patterns makes a pattern for my favorite corset of all time...
#708  1845-1860 corset"

  I've never used that pattern, but I have one favorite as well: the simplicity 
#7215. I've seen a 1869 corset which looks almost the same as the simplicity 
corset: http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/freepatterns/w1869scorsetpatt.html 
  So it should be accurate:-)) And it is very comfortable even when 
tight-laced. It is not, however, a straight-front corset:-((
   


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