RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
How authentic does it have to be? if only quasi- authentic, make a tube, lightly stuffed, with a wire inside (for shaping). Sew ends together and tack on a short or tapered (short in front, longer in back) veil. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 6:15 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande? I am going to an event in a medieval building in York at the end of this month, and will be wearing a gown similar in style to this one, only in a plain fabric. I have a beautiful "horned" headdress which fits perfectly, and looks good, again based on the painting, but is a pain in the b*tt to eat in as the veil keeps deciding it's a part of the meal, and gets in my way. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/euwl/ho_1975.1.110.htm Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could wear instead? A coif is unsuitable as I will be with other people, not in a domestic situation. My hair is very short and needs concealing. Bear in mind please I have two costumes for other people to make in that two weeks, and therefor have zero time to fiddle and make anything elaborate for myself. Oh, and hennins of any shape and size are not me! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] back from hollidays
Your welcome. :) De -Original Message- Hi De, Thanks for the correction of my error. I have changed it. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing it doesn't look "right" to me; I think I might be comparing it in my mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period. Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's 16th century? Thanks in advance, Allison T. Allison, I'd ay they look fine. I know that if you've hips, or something poofy that makes the tabs flair out, they work to make your waist look smaller than it is. I'd wonder though why you chose to add cotton batting to your doublet? I have done rapier fencing in linen doublets and shirts, without addition padding and was quite well protected. It would seem to me that the padding would add to overheating, which could hurt you more than a small bruise or two. Well, that's my opinion, ymmv, Alex ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
I also think they do look just a little limp. I always interline my 1640s tabs with medium weight tent canvas, which gives them that extra bit of stiffness. I wouldn't try using cotton batting - a bit too much. These tabs have a lot of movement in them when being worn, and I think a heavy batting lining would leave the tabs sticking out too far after bending down. Glenda. - Original Message - From: "A. Thurman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 11:03 AM Subject: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/"skirts" on men's doublets ca. 1600-1610. Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing, based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620" (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection. Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip beneath: Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8 Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given in Arnold and my "eyeballing", it seems like each of the tabs should be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2" or so, which these are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness. However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing it doesn't look "right" to me; I think I might be comparing it in my mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period. Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's 16th century? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/"skirts" on men's doublets ca. 1600-1610. Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing, based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620" (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection. Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip beneath: Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8 Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given in Arnold and my "eyeballing", it seems like each of the tabs should be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2" or so, which these are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness. However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing it doesn't look "right" to me; I think I might be comparing it in my mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period. Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's 16th century? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
At 16:09 18/09/2006, you wrote: note that the url continues in black. this means that the url was to long. usually one needs to cut and paste to get it to work. Try this http://tinyurl.com/gjenv but from the sound of things the hat probably won't work for what you want. De -Original Message- >http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&vie w >mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28 I can't make the last one work - my fault I suspect. I love the "something simple you have there - and I could do that - much lighter weight and easier for the event. Thank you. Also the one you suggest taking with a grain of salt - I have seen a similar one else where, and could do that too as I have the shape ready made. I do have a very low hairline though, and I think I'll go for the simple veil. Thanks again. Thanks for the URL. I did try cutting and pasting, several times, but still couldn't get it to work, so now I can see it, I agree with you, it won't work for this time. I still love the simple veil with dangly bits (technical term) and plan on wearing that I think, as I already have a second veil that only needs dangly bits sewing on. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
note that the url continues in black. this means that the url was to long. usually one needs to cut and paste to get it to work. Try this http://tinyurl.com/gjenv but from the sound of things the hat probably won't work for what you want. De -Original Message- >http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&vie w >mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28 I can't make the last one work - my fault I suspect. I love the "something simple you have there - and I could do that - much lighter weight and easier for the event. Thank you. Also the one you suggest taking with a grain of salt - I have seen a similar one else where, and could do that too as I have the shape ready made. I do have a very low hairline though, and I think I'll go for the simple veil. Thanks again. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
re: [h-cost] cataloging the #$%&#^ growing pile of patterns
Jeeze you guys make me SOOO happy that all my costuming interest is in a very limited range of time and place. I have a rather small, rather crowded 2-bedroom apartment shared with hubby and 2 cats, and hardly enough room to sew, never mind stock thousands of books and hundreds of patterns. No attic, no garage, no cellar. My patterns are in ziplocks stored in 3, countem, 3 rectangular baskets. That includes comercial patterns (except for Margo's which are in binders) and the manila envelopes marked Collars & Cuffs, Bodyces & Corsets, Sleeves and Sleeve Parts, etc. Every now and then I go through those envelopes and actually throw things away! Bodices, Doublets, Shifts & Shirts, and such are also marked with who they were used for, date, and where appropriate, weight. Happily, I also no longer take commissions, so it's not much of a hardship. :-) MaggiRos --- Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I use 2 legal size file cabinets. All patterns, > whether designed for > me or for someone else, are in the cabinet, as are > the few commercial > ones. The patterns are sorted by historical date of > the target > garment. This works very well for me as I have > little interest in > sewing anything after WWII or so. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] back from hollidays
Hi De, Thanks for the correction of my error. I have changed it. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1690s undergarments
As far as I know, shirts of that period just had a narrow neckband or a minimal collar. The cravat would be a separate long strip of linen. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor >>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 15/09/2006 22:47 >>> Hi guys! I just bought this pattern: _www.reconstructinghistory.com_ (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com) (_http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/ridingoutfit.html_ (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/ridingoutfit.html) ) . So far it looks great, but it doesn't include the undergarment, which I'm going to assume is a high-necked chemise with a collar like a man's shirt. Can someone show me what kind of collar I need for this look? The version I'm making is from 1692 France; it's the one on the right in that link, with the foofy hat. (What? Isn't that the technical term?) :) Tea Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email __ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] back from hollidays
Welcome back! :) I was once told that if you don't like hot weather then you need to go to Venice and not Sicily. Of coarse the person telling me this was from Venice. :) Alexia looks like the Lady of the ball in that gown. The Anglaise gown's embroidery is a lovely pattern. small note: On the bottom of Alexia's page (stumpwork2) it says: "I want to thank my costumer, Alexia S Jacobs" I believe you are wanting "customer" and not "costumer" unless Alexia was the one who sewed the garment. As always, you do beautiful work. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
At 10:48 18/09/2006, you wrote: Some possible ideas. Memling http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_048.jpg http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_049.jpg http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_071.jpg no veil http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14586 take with a grain of salt http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14606 Something simple, http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14601 http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28 I can't make the last one work - my fault I suspect. I love the "something simple you have there - and I could do that - much lighter weight and easier for the event. Thank you. Also the one you suggest taking with a grain of salt - I have seen a similar one else where, and could do that too as I have the shape ready made. I do have a very low hairline though, and I think I'll go for the simple veil. Thanks again. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] back from hollidays
Hi, I'm back from wonderfull Scicilly again and subscribed back to h-costume. I dont have much news, except i got more pictures from Alexias ball: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork2.htm Working on an anglaise dress now, wich off cause also is going to be embroidered: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm I had taken with me the embroidery, but i had to give up making much on it, it simply was two hot, and my fingers got oily all the time. I really feel sorry for all you, who lives in warm parts of the world, at least its not god for a scandinavian like me... But otherwise the holliday was lovely. I got to know quite many interresting spots there, visiting greek and roman theaters, and temples.. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
Some possible ideas. Memling http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_048.jpg http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_049.jpg http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_071.jpg no veil http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14586 take with a grain of salt http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14606 Something simple, http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14601 http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28 De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?
At 07:36 18/09/2006, you wrote: If the veil is the same length and it is pinned correctly there really shouldn't be a problem. Otherwise Flemish/Netherland/Burgundian tended to share fashions around this period. http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-hennin.html This gives a variation of yours with location of pins http://www.virtue.to/articles/arnolfini.html http://www.virtue.to/articles/butterfly.html De I don't have a hennin, but that was one of the pages I "lost" so thank you for that. I have my veil pinned, with proper medieval style pins, but because it is not as fine as the ones apparently used in medieval times, it seems to have a life of its own. I really wanted something slightly less formal, as it really is quite a responsibility! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume