RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?

2006-09-18 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
How authentic does it have to be? if only quasi- authentic, make a tube,
lightly stuffed, with a wire inside (for shaping). Sew ends together and
tack on a short or tapered (short in front, longer in back) veil.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 6:15 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?




I am going to an event in a medieval building in York at the end of 
this month, and will be wearing a gown similar in style to this one, 
only in a plain fabric. I have a beautiful "horned" headdress which 
fits perfectly, and looks good, again based on the painting, but is a 
pain in the b*tt to eat in as the veil keeps deciding it's a part of 
the meal, and gets in my way.

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/euwl/ho_1975.1.110.htm

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could wear instead? A 
coif is unsuitable as I will be with other people, not in a domestic 
situation. My hair is very short and needs concealing. Bear in mind 
please I have two costumes for other people to make in that two 
weeks, and therefor have zero time to fiddle and make anything 
elaborate for myself. Oh, and hennins of any shape and size are not me!

Suzi

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RE: [h-cost] back from hollidays

2006-09-18 Thread otsisto
Your welcome. :)
De
-Original Message-
Hi De,
Thanks for the correction of my error. I have changed it.

Bjarne


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Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

2006-09-18 Thread Alexandria Doyle

However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy
dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing
it doesn't look "right" to me; I think I might be comparing it in my
mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period.

Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I
just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's
16th century?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.


Allison, I'd ay they look fine.  I know that if you've hips, or
something poofy that makes the tabs flair out, they work to make your
waist look smaller than it is.

I'd wonder though why you chose to add cotton batting to your doublet?
I have done rapier fencing in linen doublets and shirts, without
addition padding and was quite well protected.  It would seem to me
that the padding would add to overheating, which could hurt you more
than a small bruise or two.  Well, that's my opinion, ymmv, Alex
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Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

2006-09-18 Thread Glenda Robinson
I also think they do look just a little limp. I always interline my 1640s 
tabs with medium weight tent canvas, which gives them that extra bit of 
stiffness. I wouldn't try using cotton batting - a bit too much. These tabs 
have a lot of movement in them when being worn, and I think a heavy batting 
lining would leave the tabs sticking out too far after bending down.


Glenda.

- Original Message - 
From: "A. Thurman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet



I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/"skirts" on
men's doublets ca. 1600-1610.

Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing,
based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion
1560-1620" (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed
front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural
waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection.

Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted
on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip
beneath:

Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8

Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp

My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given
in Arnold and my "eyeballing", it seems like each of the tabs should
be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2" or so, which these
are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere
because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness.

However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy
dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing
it doesn't look "right" to me; I think I might be comparing it in my
mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period.

Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I
just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's
16th century?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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[h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

2006-09-18 Thread A. Thurman

I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/"skirts" on
men's doublets ca. 1600-1610.

Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing,
based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion
1560-1620" (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed
front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural
waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection.

Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted
on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip
beneath:

Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8

Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp

My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given
in Arnold and my "eyeballing", it seems like each of the tabs should
be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2" or so, which these
are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere
because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness.

However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy
dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing
it doesn't look "right" to me; I think I might be comparing it in my
mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period.

Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I
just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's
16th century?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?

2006-09-18 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 16:09 18/09/2006, you wrote:

note that the url continues in black. this means that the url was to long.
usually one needs to cut and paste to get it to work.
Try this
http://tinyurl.com/gjenv
but from the sound of things the hat probably won't work for what you want.
De

-Original Message-
>http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&vie
w
>mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28

I can't make the last one work - my fault I suspect. I love the
"something simple you have there - and I could do that - much lighter
weight and easier for the event. Thank you. Also the one you suggest
taking with a grain of salt - I have seen a similar one else where,
and could do that too as I have the shape ready made. I do have a
very low hairline though, and I think I'll go for the simple veil.
Thanks again.


Thanks for the URL. I did try cutting and pasting, several times, but 
still couldn't get it to work, so now I can see it, I agree with you, 
it won't work for this time. I still love the simple veil with dangly 
bits (technical term) and plan on wearing that I think, as I already 
have a second veil that only needs dangly bits sewing on.


Suzi 


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RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?

2006-09-18 Thread otsisto
note that the url continues in black. this means that the url was to long.
usually one needs to cut and paste to get it to work.
Try this
http://tinyurl.com/gjenv
but from the sound of things the hat probably won't work for what you want.
De

-Original Message-
>http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&vie
w
>mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28

I can't make the last one work - my fault I suspect. I love the
"something simple you have there - and I could do that - much lighter
weight and easier for the event. Thank you. Also the one you suggest
taking with a grain of salt - I have seen a similar one else where,
and could do that too as I have the shape ready made. I do have a
very low hairline though, and I think I'll go for the simple veil.
Thanks again.

Suzi


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re: [h-cost] cataloging the #$%&#^ growing pile of patterns

2006-09-18 Thread MaggiRos
Jeeze you guys make me SOOO happy that all my
costuming interest is in a very limited range of time
and place. I have a rather small, rather crowded
2-bedroom apartment shared with hubby and 2 cats, and
hardly enough room to sew, never mind stock thousands
of books and hundreds of patterns. No attic, no
garage, no cellar.

My patterns are in ziplocks stored in 3, countem, 3
rectangular baskets. That includes comercial patterns
(except for Margo's which are in binders) and the
manila envelopes marked Collars & Cuffs, Bodyces &
Corsets, Sleeves and Sleeve Parts, etc. Every now and
then I go through those envelopes and actually throw
things away!

Bodices, Doublets, Shifts & Shirts, and such are also
marked with who they were used for, date, and where
appropriate, weight. Happily, I also no longer take
commissions, so it's not much of a hardship. :-)


MaggiRos

--- Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I use 2 legal size file cabinets.  All patterns,
> whether designed for
> me or for someone else, are in the cabinet, as are
> the few commercial
> ones.  The patterns are sorted by historical date of
> the target
> garment.  This works very well for me as I have
> little interest in
> sewing anything after WWII or so. 
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Re: [h-cost] back from hollidays

2006-09-18 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi De,
Thanks for the correction of my error. I have changed it.

Bjarne


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Re: [h-cost] 1690s undergarments

2006-09-18 Thread Kate M Bunting
As far as I know, shirts of that period just had a narrow neckband or a
minimal collar. The cravat would be a separate long strip of linen.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 15/09/2006 22:47 >>>
Hi guys! I just bought this pattern: _www.reconstructinghistory.com_ 
(http://www.reconstructinghistory.com)   
(_http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/ridingoutfit.html_ 
(http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/ridingoutfit.html) )  .
So far it looks great, but it doesn't include the undergarment, 
which I'm  going to assume is a high-necked chemise with a collar like
a 
man's shirt. Can  someone show me what kind of collar I need for this
look? The 
version I'm making  is from 1692 France; it's the one on the right in
that link, 
with the foofy hat.  (What? Isn't that the technical term?) :)
 
Tea Rose  
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RE: [h-cost] back from hollidays

2006-09-18 Thread otsisto
Welcome back! :)
I was once told that if you don't like hot weather then you need to go to
Venice and not Sicily. Of coarse the person telling me this was from Venice.
:)

Alexia looks like the Lady of the ball in that gown.
The Anglaise gown's embroidery is a lovely pattern.

small note: On the bottom of Alexia's page (stumpwork2) it says:

"I want to thank my costumer, Alexia S Jacobs"

I believe you are wanting "customer" and not "costumer" unless Alexia was
the one who sewed the garment.

As always, you do beautiful work.
De


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RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?

2006-09-18 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 10:48 18/09/2006, you wrote:

Some possible ideas.
Memling
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_048.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_049.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_071.jpg
no veil
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14586
take with a grain of salt
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14606
Something simple,
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14601
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28


I can't make the last one work - my fault I suspect. I love the 
"something simple you have there - and I could do that - much lighter 
weight and easier for the event. Thank you. Also the one you suggest 
taking with a grain of salt - I have seen a similar one else where, 
and could do that too as I have the shape ready made. I do have a 
very low hairline though, and I think I'll go for the simple veil. 
Thanks again.


Suzi 


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[h-cost] back from hollidays

2006-09-18 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews


Hi,
I'm back from wonderfull Scicilly again and subscribed back to h-costume.
I dont have much news, except i got more pictures from Alexias ball:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork2.htm
Working on an anglaise dress now, wich off cause also is going to be 
embroidered:

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm
I had taken with me the embroidery, but i had to give up making much on it, 
it simply was two hot, and my fingers got oily all the time. I really feel 
sorry for all you, who lives in warm parts of the world, at least its not 
god for a scandinavian like me...
But otherwise the holliday was lovely. I got to know quite many interresting 
spots there, visiting greek and roman theaters, and temples..


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?

2006-09-18 Thread otsisto
Some possible ideas.
Memling
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_048.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_049.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_071.jpg
no veil
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14586
take with a grain of salt
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14606
Something simple,
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=14601
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
mode=1&item=50%2E145%2E28

De


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RE: [h-cost] Alternative headdress for 1460's houppelande?

2006-09-18 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 07:36 18/09/2006, you wrote:

If the veil is the same length and it is pinned correctly there really
shouldn't be a problem.
Otherwise Flemish/Netherland/Burgundian tended to share fashions around this
period.
http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-hennin.html

This gives a variation of yours with location of pins
http://www.virtue.to/articles/arnolfini.html
http://www.virtue.to/articles/butterfly.html

De


I don't have a hennin, but that was one of the pages I "lost" so 
thank you for that.


I have my veil pinned, with proper medieval style pins, but because 
it is not as fine  as the ones apparently used in medieval times, it 
seems to have a life of its own. I really wanted something slightly 
less formal, as it really is quite a responsibility!


Suzi 


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