[h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
Greetings all, In the new issue of Costume (the journal of the British Costume Society), there are four--count them, four!--articles of interest to Elizabethan mavens. The first is a very short posthumous article by the great Janet Arnold on the stays and drawers from QEI's effigy. She cautions that as the drawers are nailed on (ouch!), the pattern may be inaccurate. A very interesting editor's note to this article reads in part: It is an important piece of work to which she had given a substantial amount of time, but it does not fit with her plans for the forthcoming volume of Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Linen Clothes for Men and Women* *Work on this volume is progressing well and should be with the publisher by the end of 2007. It is hoped that a second volume and remaining patterns can be completed by November 2008. Whether this means any more than the previous we're working on it messages we've gotten about this material is anyone's guess, but I thought I would pass it along. The other articles are: 'To Cap it All': The Waterford Cap of Maintenance This cap was given in 1536, and the journal includes color pictures of a Mad Hatter-ish velvet hat and details of its materials and construction. I've not read the article in detail yet, so I can't tell you much more than that. Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe Queen Elizabeth I's wardrobe, that is--this is an analysis of the colors mentioned in the New Year's Gift Rolls, and there is a color page with names and little colored boxes. Also very useful are the appendices, which are tables of color definitions, years of appearance and what colors appeared on which garments, color combinations and what years they were used, and locations and shelfmarks of extant New Year's Gift Rolls (of which there are many more than I thought!). Also very interesting is a note saying that the author, Jane A. Lawson, is preparing a full annotated transcript of all the New Year's Gift Rolls, which will be published by the British Academy in their series Records of Economic and Social History. It doesn't say when, but the annotation will include indexes of people and biographical sketches. The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailor's Guild or Company of Merchants? I have not so much as skimmed this yet, but the intro says Part I of this article examines briefly the origins, nature and functions of the sub-company [of the yeomanry within the guild]. Part II explores the degree to which this body represented the continuation of the traditions of the medieval guild of London tailors and continued to embody the aspirations and interests of its artisan members. Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
Hi, Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled. Wich way is the best to iron it? Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, or should i just steam iron it? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
At 15:32 15/08/2007, you wrote: Greetings all, In the new issue of Costume (the journal of the British Costume Society), there are four--count them, four!--articles of interest to Elizabethan mavens. The first is a very short posthumous article by the great Janet Arnold on the stays and drawers from QEI's effigy. She cautions that as the drawers are nailed on (ouch!), the pattern may be inaccurate. A very interesting editor's note to this article reads in part: It is an important piece of work to which she had given a substantial amount of time, but it does not fit with her plans for the forthcoming volume of Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Linen Clothes for Men and Women* *Work on this volume is progressing well and should be with the publisher by the end of 2007. It is hoped that a second volume and remaining patterns can be completed by November 2008. Whether this means any more than the previous we're working on it messages we've gotten about this material is anyone's guess, but I thought I would pass it along. I was talking to Santina Levey and Jenny Tiramani about these books earlier this year, and Jenny told me that the Effigy Corset pattern would be included in the book on linens, even though it wasn't entirely suitable for the theme of the book. they wanted to make sure that it was included in one of her books, and it seemed that this was the most suitable. The book is indeed almost ready to go to the publishers, but both ladies have other work to complete, as well as working on Janet's book. The reason for the apparent anomaly in what was written and what was said is that I suspect the Journal went to press some time before our conversation. Suzi The other articles are: 'To Cap it All': The Waterford Cap of Maintenance This cap was given in 1536, and the journal includes color pictures of a Mad Hatter-ish velvet hat and details of its materials and construction. I've not read the article in detail yet, so I can't tell you much more than that. Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe Queen Elizabeth I's wardrobe, that is--this is an analysis of the colors mentioned in the New Year's Gift Rolls, and there is a color page with names and little colored boxes. Also very useful are the appendices, which are tables of color definitions, years of appearance and what colors appeared on which garments, color combinations and what years they were used, and locations and shelfmarks of extant New Year's Gift Rolls (of which there are many more than I thought!). Also very interesting is a note saying that the author, Jane A. Lawson, is preparing a full annotated transcript of all the New Year's Gift Rolls, which will be published by the British Academy in their series Records of Economic and Social History. It doesn't say when, but the annotation will include indexes of people and biographical sketches. The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailor's Guild or Company of Merchants? I have not so much as skimmed this yet, but the intro says Part I of this article examines briefly the origins, nature and functions of the sub-company [of the yeomanry within the guild]. Part II explores the degree to which this body represented the continuation of the traditions of the medieval guild of London tailors and continued to embody the aspirations and interests of its artisan members. Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
My personal experience has been that ironing dampened linen works better than steam ironing. But it probably depends on your steam iron. Mine just doesn't produce enough steam to work well with linen. Good luck. Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen. Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:16:45 +0200 Hi, Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled. Wich way is the best to iron it? Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, or should i just steam iron it? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Netscape. Just the Net You Need. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Linen Shirt
My mother always told me to sprinkle linen with water, put it in a plastic bag for an hour or overnight and iron. That way the linen gets really damp. Steam iron doesn't seem to do it for me. Tania - Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen.
At 08:16 AM 8/15/2007, you wrote: Hi, Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled. Wich way is the best to iron it? Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, or should i just steam iron it? Bjarne When I iron linen, I try to take it directly from the washer and iron it while still damp. In my experience, a steam iron does not do a very good job on dry linen. I would recommend getting it thoroughly damp before ironing. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen.
I wear lots of linen so am ironing it all the time. I use a spray bottle. You can usually get these from stores that sell plants or, like I did, just wash out a spray bottle from window cleaner or a similar product. - Hope ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007, Melanie Schuessler wrote: In the new issue of Costume ... 'To Cap it All': The Waterford Cap of Maintenance The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailor's Guild or Company of Merchants? Authors? --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
My mother always ironed her embroidered linen tablecloths by taking them out of the washing machine, putting them into the dryer for 5 to 10 minutes (so they became steamy rather than soaking wet), then spreading them on a large flat surface (sometimes the table itself, with heat- and wet-protective padding), and ironing them until they were dry. BEAUTIFUL results. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Aug 15, 2007, at 12:40 PM, Lynn Downward wrote: When I was a child, my mom didn't have a steam iron. She'd take the clothes out of the washing machine and put them into a large heavy-duty plastic bag in the refrigerator until she could get to the ironing, usually after we all went to school the next day. I had a lot of linen to iron recently, did NOT do this (I was traveling) and spent 3 1/2 hour ironing 10+ yards of linen just smooth enough to cut out. When these shirts are finished, I'll have to get them wet to iron them because steam irons just won't work well on their own with linen. But I don't have a Rowenta with the extra tank for the heavy steam. LynnD On 8/15/07, Lalah [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My personal experience has been that ironing dampened linen works better than steam ironing. But it probably depends on your steam iron. Mine just doesn't produce enough steam to work well with linen. Good luck. Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen. Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:16:45 +0200 Hi, Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled. Wich way is the best to iron it? Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, or should i just steam iron it? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Netscape. Just the Net You Need. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen
Why did i have to read this article before going to iron all our underlinen from last weekend's event? It's much too dry, but time just doesn't allow for me to catch it while it's wet. Spray bottle, where are you? Jean Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Hi, Manny manny thanks for your help with this. Ill wet it a little and put it in a plasticbag for the night, so that i can start ironing early tomorrow. Thanks again. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Linen Shirt
My mother said the same except the bag (with the dampened linen) went in the refrigerator first. Patty -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tania Gruning Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 11:34 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Linen Shirt My mother always told me to sprinkle linen with water, put it in a plastic bag for an hour or overnight and iron. That way the linen gets really damp. Steam iron doesn't seem to do it for me. Tania - Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
Absolutely. Would you do me a favor and add in the author names, as Robin rightly suggested? To Cap it All by Cliodna Devitt Rainbow for a Reign Jane A. Lawson The Merchant Taylors' Company Nigel Sleigh-Johnson Thanks! Melanie On Aug 15, 2007, at 4:18 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote: Melanie Schuessler wrote: a bunch of good stuff. Melanie, May I quote your post in its entirety on other relevant email lists, with attribution? And Suzi, ditto for your comment about the corset? cv/cynthia -- Vandeverre's Emporium, Caledon II: for a subset of your Victorian Second Life needs! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new Janet Arnold article, etc.
At 21:18 15/08/2007, you wrote: Melanie Schuessler wrote: a bunch of good stuff. Melanie, May I quote your post in its entirety on other relevant email lists, with attribution? And Suzi, ditto for your comment about the corset? cv/cynthia Yes, the conversation was not to be kept a secret, as far as I know. However, because the book had not yet gone to the publishers when I was talking to Jenny, I think I would prefer that you say something to the effect of Janet's literary executors are hoping to be able to include her pattern for the effigy corset in the Linen book, just in case there is a problem at the publishers. Unless you want to wait while I e-mail her to check? Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
I tend to spray with water and steam iron. that's with cloth or clothes for other people. my own linen clothes I tend not to bother ironing at all. I find that the creases drop out of pure linen in less than an hour anyway. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
Please be warned--ironing wet or even just damp linen stretches it out a LOT. This can have all sorts of annoying effects if you plan to make/have made a fitted or supportive garment out of it, or if it's being used as a lining for wool, or if you don't want to have to iron the garment EVERY SINGLE TIME before wearing it to keep the seams from puckering horribly. Voice of experience, in case you couldn't tell... -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen. Hi, Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled. Wich way is the best to iron it? Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron it, or should i just steam iron it? Bjarne I spray my linen with a spray bottle of lavender water, then use a dry iron (ok, actually my mangle)on a very hot temperature to iron it. It comes out beautifully. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
Greetings. I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto: http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Venetomode=artistfrm=1 Specifically, I'm looking for a detail of the tulip motifs on the camica. I remember seeing one, but, of course, can't find it now. Thanks so much. kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
A wee bit better http://tinyurl.com/2n6r4o I remember once upon a time that there was a site that zoomed in on the portrait but I can't seem to find it. De -Original Message- Greetings. I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto: http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Venetomo de=artistfrm=1 Specifically, I'm looking for a detail of the tulip motifs on the camica. I remember seeing one, but, of course, can't find it now. Thanks so much. kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for detail of image ca. 1510
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings. I'm looking for detail images of this portrait by Bartolomeo Veneto: http://www.nationalgalleryimages.co.uk/search.aspx?q=BARTOLOMEO%2C+Venetomode=artistfrm=1 Ahh... good luck getting anything out of them. I broke down and got this book from the library The sixteenth-century Italian paintings. Volume 1, Paintings from Bergamo, Brescia and Cremona by Penny Nicholas - National Gallery of Great Britain -- Adele de Maisieres - Habeo metrum - musicamque, hominem meam. Expectat alium quid? -Georgeus Gershwinus - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
An interesting topic today... I ran into a problem today with a linen mix dress. I have a cotton / linen blend off-white dress that I had not worn in a couple of years. I was cleaning out my closet and noticed the dress had turned a dark tea color. I took the dress to the dry cleaners today and they said that they could not get the tea color out. She stated the reason this happened was because of the hot temperatures in my closet. Last week we had 100 degree temperatures and my closet has two exterior walls. I opened my closet door and the air was really hot. So I started leaving the closet door open on hot days to let the air conditioning get into the closet. Tonight, I washed the dress with hot water, Shave shampoo, and a little bleach. To get rid of the bleach in the fabric, I rinsed it several times in clear water. The dress color is now its natural off-white! YEA! I am going to try the refrigerator trick to see how it works on this dress. BTW, I have found that Shave shampoo is gentle enough to wash white delicate natural fabrics. I have been using Shave for the past year and it works wonders! I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated. Some of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this. It makes me wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the generations. I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and cooling the linen is not mentioned. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning
I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing originated. Some of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this. It makes me wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the generations. I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and cooling the linen is not mentioned. Penny Ladnier, Actually my mother used to put things in the refrigerator or freezer in order to keep them from developing mildew before she got around to ironing them. She had a full time job as a Hospital pharmacist and clothing could be washed on one Saturday and ironed when she had the time and energy to do so. Wanda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
