[h-cost] Paternoster beads: medieval dress accessory

[Chris Laning]

For anyone interested who hasn't already heard about it, my booklet  
"Bedes Byddyng: Medieval Rosaries and Paternoster Beads" has been  
published (finally!) as issue #135 of the Compleat Anachronist (an  
SCA quarterly). It's  available at $4.50 per copy at: https:// 
secure.sca.org/cgi-bin/stockclerk/ca.html (Go to page 14 of the site  
and scroll down)


This is a short introduction to the history of rosary beads (mostly  
Christian ones), along with a look at the social history: what  
materials were used for beads, threads and accessories; numbers and  
significance of beads; how rosaries were made, sold, worn, and used;  
and a few pointers on how to tell whether a string of beads is a  
rosary or not. There is also an appendix with full instructions on  
making a rather generic set of medieval-style beads.


It was stressful to write, but satisfying. I hadn't seen it since I  
turned in the manuscript six months ago, and I am now grimacing over  
the usual quota of typos, formatting mistakes and bits of authorial  
disorganization that made it into the printed version. I'll do better  
next time: but I'm happy to have it to offer.


I'd be interested in anyone's comments (on or off list) once you've  
read it.




OChris Laning <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com




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Re: [h-cost] Seeking names in early textile research

[Heather Rose Jones]

On Oct 14, 2007, at 3:59 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:



Passing along a question from a friend that I can't answer myself:
Can anyone point me to which researchers would be the "name"  
specialists studying and publishing about textiles from the Near  
East and Aegean from the fourth and third centuries B.C.?


I know there are plenty of people in pre-medieval periods, but  
because it's not my own area, I can't remember which scholars  
specialize in which periods and places, and I'd rather not e-mail  
all of them to find out.


This is to help a student working in a related material culture  
area in the period of Alexander the Great.


I'm not sure that there are enough textiles surviving from that  
period to support a focused expert.  The only textile that comes to  
mind from that narrow window are some fragments found in an elaborate  
box in a tomb supposed to be that of Philip of Macedon.  (The  
identification may be more certain than I'm making it sound.)  This  
is discussed in Flury-Lemberg's _Textile Conservation and Reserach_  
and mentioned in an article in _Athens Annals of Archaeology_  
discussing the site in general (there's an offprint of this article  
available as:  Andronikos, M..  1980.  Royal Graves at Vergina.   
Athens Annals of Archaeology, Athens.)


Somewhat earlier than that target period, but possible also relevant  
are some textiles from the burial known as "the hero of Lefkandi",  
which is mentioned in Barber's _Prehistoric Textiles_, as well as in  
Popham, Mervyn, E. Touloupa & L.H. Sackett. 1982. "The hero of  
Lefkandi" in Antiquity 56:169-174.


I'm almost hesitant to suggest Barber as a _specialist_ in this  
topic, since she covers such a broad territory, but she probably  
comes closest to fitting the description of anyone I'm familiar with.


Heather

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[h-cost] Robin Netherton/Laurellen de Brandevin Lectures

[Jamie Parker]

In case your wondering, yes there is still space available.  If you would still 
like to attend the Robin Netherton/Tammie Dupuis Lecture sereis next weekend 
(October 20, 21) in Eugene Oregon please visit our website at 
www.costumetalk.com for information on the event.   

Complete a registration form & bring it to you the day of the Lectures.  Space 
will be available on a first come first serve basis so plan to arrive early if 
you have not already mailed in your registration.  You may also contact either 
me or my partner via email from the website to let us know you are interested 
in attending & we will add you to our reservations list.   Payment will be due 
at check-in.
 
 Due to a plumbing issue with our original venue we have had to change 
locations.  The lectures will now be held at  The John G Shedd Institue for the 
Arts  http://www.ofam.org .  For directions, parking, hotel and restaurant 
information visit the links page on our website.
 
 I look forward to meeting new people, visiting with old friends and having the 
rare and wonderful opportunity to hear two amazing speakers do what they do 
best.  
 
 See you all next weekend.  
   
-
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. 
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[h-cost] Seeking names in early textile research

[Robin Netherton]

Passing along a question from a friend that I can't answer myself: 
Can anyone point me to which researchers would be the "name" specialists 
studying and publishing about textiles from the Near East and Aegean from the 
fourth and third centuries B.C.?
 
I know there are plenty of people in pre-medieval periods, but because it's not 
my own area, I can't remember which scholars specialize in which periods and 
places, and I'd rather not e-mail all of them to find out.
 
This is to help a student working in a related material culture area in the 
period of Alexander the Great.
 
Thanks!
 
--Robin
 
_
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Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[Leif og Bjarne Drews]

http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/
This is the company Suzi Clarke would give you to ask about cleaning 
tarnished metal-


Bjarne 



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RE: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[monica spence]

I read somewhere that mettalic lace was originally cleaned by rubbing it
with a piece of bread saturated with urine.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:48 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.


At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
>   TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.

I couldn't find them on line, but have put a request out on another
list I'm on, as we have people who make military uniforms there.

Suzi

>
>   yoursgratefully,
>   Julian Wilson
>
>Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> SNIPPED
> > However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also
> heavily ornamented with  "gold" lace and trimmed with white
> ostrich  feathers - was not so carefully stored-away,  and -
> SNIPPED - the metallic lace has  tarnished badly, and is now green
> instead of a bright gold.
> > We would welcome suggestions as to how we  might clean the
> metallic lace and restore it to  a shine at least equal to that of
> the lace  ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.SNIPPED
>   REPLY
>   You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in London, who very
> possibly supplied the braid in the first place. I will try and get
> an address for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the Royal
> School of Needlework's conservator department at Hampton Court
> might be able to help.
>
>Suzi
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Reply - [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[julian wilson]

Aha! Margaret Street, London? 
  Way back when the world was young, & rocks were soft, - one of my very first 
jobs was clerking for the Performing Rights Society whose HQ was in Margaret 
Street! Hand't thought of that for years.
  Anyway, TYVM for giving-up some of your Sunday morning to be so helpful.  My 
lady will now take action on that data.
   
  Best Wishes and Thanks,
  Julian

Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Suzi,
> TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.
>

86 Margaret Street London W1W (0207 580 7488)

http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/

Suzi

Apparently they have moved and changed hands and so on! (No pun intended!) 
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Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[Suzi Clarke]

At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:

Dear Suzi,
  TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.



86 Margaret Street London W1W (0207 580 7488)

http://www.hand-embroidery.co.uk/

Suzi

Apparently they have moved and changed hands and so on! (No pun intended!) 
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Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[Suzi Clarke]

At 11:43 14/10/2007, you wrote:

Dear Suzi,
  TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.


I couldn't find them on line, but have put a request out on another 
list I'm on, as we have people who make military uniforms there.


Suzi



  yoursgratefully,
  Julian Wilson

Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
SNIPPED
> However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also 
heavily ornamented with  "gold" lace and trimmed with white 
ostrich  feathers - was not so carefully stored-away,  and - 
SNIPPED - the metallic lace has  tarnished badly, and is now green 
instead of a bright gold.
> We would welcome suggestions as to how we  might clean the 
metallic lace and restore it to  a shine at least equal to that of 
the lace  ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.SNIPPED

  REPLY
  You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in London, who very 
possibly supplied the braid in the first place. I will try and get 
an address for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the Royal 
School of Needlework's conservator department at Hampton Court 
might be able to help.


Suzi
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Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[julian wilson]

Dear Suzi, 
  TYVM for your prompt response. I shall look them up online today.
   
  yoursgratefully,
  Julian Wilson

Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
SNIPPED
> However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also heavily 
> ornamented with  "gold" lace and trimmed with white ostrich  feathers - was 
> not so carefully stored-away,  and - SNIPPED - the metallic lace has  
> tarnished badly, and is now green instead of a bright gold.
> We would welcome suggestions as to how we  might clean the metallic lace and 
> restore it to  a shine at least equal to that of the lace  ornamenting the 
> swallow-tail coat and the trousers.SNIPPED
  REPLY
  You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in London, who very possibly 
supplied the braid in the first place. I will try and get an address for you. 
Otherwise museum conservators, or the Royal School of Needlework's conservator 
department at Hampton Court might be able to help.

Suzi
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Re: [h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[Suzi Clarke]

At 10:59 14/10/2007, you wrote:

  Ladies & Gentlemen of the List,
  this List seems to be honoured by a number of 
people whose professional work is - or has been 
- Costuming - for Museums, Theatre, Films, and 
the like. Reading many past Posts while I have 
been lurking in the shadows and learning from 
you all, I suspect that some of you also have 
expertise in the conservation and cleaning of historic clothing.


  I plead for help on behalf of my Lady and her 
sister, from such of you as have experience in 
the restoration/conservation of historic 
clothing - especially the metallic lace which 
so often is to be found upon "dress" uniforms.
  "Old" Jersey's Catholic "cathedral" has just 
undergone a £1Million+plus renovation, to 
restore the building to it's original 1870's "Gothic Revival" splendour.
  The Canon [Jersey's most senior Catholic 
priest] has subsequently -  and as a part of 
the renovation - created a small exhibition - 
in purpose-made display-cases - in one of the 
underused side-chapels - of many religious 
items which have languished hidden in storage for years.


  Near-on 40 gorgeously-embroidered Copes and 
Chasubles have been discovered, for example, 
secreted in various cupboards and chests in 
seldom-visited corners of various Church 
properties. Some of these robes are believed to 
be over a century old, dating from the 1870's-80's.
  These robes will be displayed in rotation, so 
that visitors and Congregation may marvel at 
the High Craft of these wonderful examples of the highest-quality Embroidery.


  Chalices, pattens, monstrances, reliquaries, 
small shrines, and other items, - many 
presented to the new Church when it was first 
consecrated in 1873 - have now been cleaned and 
restored by my Lady and her sister, and are 
on-display for the first in over 60 years. One 
Monstrance is said to have been donated  to the 
newly-consecrated St. Thomas'' Church by Louis 
Napoleon III, ex-Emperor of the French. A small 
coffered shrine, of over-gilded wood and 
plaster, now in restoration by myself - is 
known to have been donated by the Papacy of the Time.


  One of the exhibits is the Uniform of St. 
Thomas'  "Suisse" [from the French "suivre" - 
to follow, rather than from the 
"Swiss"  denoting a connection with the Papal Guard].
  The Suisse led all the Church processions - 
carrying a Mace and a Spontoon, to "clear the way".
  The single-breasted swallow-tail coat is 
edged- and the "overall" trousers are  striped 
down the side seams - with metallic "gold" 
lace, almost a bright as the day they were 
delivered from the Tailors, [because they were 
properly stored-away when the "office" of the 
Suisse was not filled by the local priest in 
the early 1960's, following the retirement of the previous Suisse].
   However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn 
"athwartships"] - also heavily ornamented with 
"gold" lace and trimmed with white ostrich 
feathers  - was not so carefully stored-away, 
and - though the base fabric and feathers are 
untouched by Time, - the metallic lace has 
tarnished badly, and is now green instead of a bright gold.


  We would welcome suggestions as to how we 
might clean the metallic lace and restore it to 
a shine at least equal to that of the lace 
ornamenting the swallow-tail coat and the trousers.


Thanking you in advance for your suggestions,
  Julian Wilson


You could try contacting "Hands" - (Lacemen) in 
London, who very possibly supplied the braid in 
the first place. I will try and get an address 
for you. Otherwise museum conservators, or the 
Royal School of Needlework's conservator 
department at Hampton Court might be able to help.


Suzi



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[h-cost] Help, please? Cleaning tarnished metallic lace.

[julian wilson]

  Ladies & Gentlemen of the List,
  this List seems to be honoured by a number of people whose professional work 
is - or has been - Costuming - for Museums, Theatre, Films, and the like. 
Reading many past Posts while I have been lurking in the shadows and learning 
from you all, I suspect that some of you also have expertise in the 
conservation and cleaning of historic clothing.
   
  I plead for help on behalf of my Lady and her sister, from such of you as 
have experience in the restoration/conservation of historic clothing - 
especially the metallic lace which so often is to be found upon "dress" 
uniforms.
  "Old" Jersey's Catholic "cathedral" has just undergone a £1Million+plus 
renovation, to restore the building to it's original 1870's "Gothic Revival" 
splendour. 
  The Canon [Jersey's most senior Catholic priest] has subsequently -  and as a 
part of the renovation - created a small exhibition - in purpose-made 
display-cases - in one of the underused side-chapels - of many religious items 
which have languished hidden in storage for years. 
   
  Near-on 40 gorgeously-embroidered Copes and Chasubles have been discovered, 
for example, secreted in various cupboards and chests in seldom-visited corners 
of various Church properties. Some of these robes are believed to be over a 
century old, dating from the 1870's-80's.
  These robes will be displayed in rotation, so that visitors and Congregation 
may marvel at the High Craft of these wonderful examples of the highest-quality 
Embroidery. 
   
  Chalices, pattens, monstrances, reliquaries, small shrines, and other items, 
- many presented to the new Church when it was first consecrated in 1873 - have 
now been cleaned and restored by my Lady and her sister, and are on-display for 
the first in over 60 years. One Monstrance is said to have been donated  to the 
newly-consecrated St. Thomas'' Church by Louis Napoleon III, ex-Emperor of the 
French. A small coffered shrine, of over-gilded wood and plaster, now in 
restoration by myself - is known to have been donated by the Papacy of the Time.
   
  One of the exhibits is the Uniform of St. Thomas'  "Suisse" [from the French 
"suivre" - to follow, rather than from the "Swiss"  denoting a connection with 
the Papal Guard]. 
  The Suisse led all the Church processions - carrying a Mace and a Spontoon, 
to "clear the way". 
  The single-breasted swallow-tail coat is edged- and the "overall" trousers 
are  striped down the side seams - with metallic "gold" lace, almost a bright 
as the day they were delivered from the Tailors, [because they were properly 
stored-away when the "office" of the Suisse was not filled by the local priest 
in the early 1960's, following the retirement of the previous Suisse].
   However the Suisse's cocked hat, [worn "athwartships"] - also heavily 
ornamented with "gold" lace and trimmed with white ostrich feathers  - was not 
so carefully stored-away, and - though the base fabric and feathers are 
untouched by Time, - the metallic lace has tarnished badly, and is now green 
instead of a bright gold.
   
  We would welcome suggestions as to how we might clean the metallic lace and 
restore it to a shine at least equal to that of the lace ornamenting the 
swallow-tail coat and the trousers.
  
Thanking you in advance for your suggestions,
  Julian Wilson

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