Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing

2008-02-28 Thread Hilary Davidson
The earliest one I know of, remarkable for its rarity, is a man's  
tartan worsted cloak c 1828-1830 with a label stating it's made by  
John Eyre of New Bond Street, London.


Otherwise, Suzi is on the right track, they appear more and more from  
the 1860s. I don't know if you can count the imprints of manufacturers  
such as Thomsons on their crinolines as dressmakers/tailors. There are  
labels in hats from the 1830s at least, shoes even earlier. By the  
1880s it's quite common in produced clothing. I could put you in touch  
with someone who's researching this for a thesis if it would be helpful.


cheers, Hilary

Subject: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
From: Beth Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3.3.1  unnamed  [text/plain]  0.26 KB

Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know
House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
something earlier.



Beth Chamberlain


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Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing - resending

2008-02-28 Thread Hilary Davidson

Sorry all, the top bit of the post fell off. It was meant to read:

The earliest, rare example I know of is a man's worsted tartan cape  
dated 1828-30, with a label proclaiming it to be made by John Eyre of  
New Bond Street, London. Otherwise, Suzi is on the right track, they  
appear more and more from

the 1860s. I don't know if you can count the imprints of manufacturers
such as Thomsons on their crinolines as dressmakers/tailors. There are
labels in hats from the 1830s at least, shoes even earlier. By the
1880s it's quite common in produced clothing. I could put you in touch
with someone who's researching this for a thesis if it would be helpful.

cheers, Hilary


Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting  
labels
in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century.  
I know

House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for
something earlier.



Beth Chamberlain


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[h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources

2008-02-28 Thread Melissa B. Muckart
I've sending this in behalf of a friend who is looking for websites, 
books or other reseruces as reference for 18th and 19th century 
clothing. The paragraph below is a cut and paste from her email (with 
permission):


The book I am editing is set in late 1700's-early 1800's Scotland. The 
second book is early 1800's, set in the Caribbean islands (with English 
and French, and island people) as well as London and Scotland, perhaps 
Paris.  Anything you send on costumes will be tucked away and used. 
It's so important to get these details right, so having resources I can 
trust is huge.


If you have any suggestions of where she can look, please let me know, 
or you can email me off-list if you prefer.


Thanks in advance,

Melissa
goslomo at gmail dot com

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Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing

2008-02-28 Thread stilskin
 Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels
 in their goods?

TO BE PICKY, it goes way, way back to the idea of tradesmen or craftsmen 
leaving thier mark in or on thier work (remember the joke about the Nike flash 
on the armour in A Knight's Tale?).

It initially involved a notch, a hammered mark (in leather, for instance), a 
particular shaped stitch or letter stitched in to clothing to define the maker.

I have no hard evidence as to when these vanity marks became more formal such 
as manufacturers' tags but vaguely recall reading early-to-mid-19th century as 
when it came about, in line with factory production, mail order catalogues, and 
so on.

I hope this helps, if not, you can print it to line your cocky's cage,

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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RE: [h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources

2008-02-28 Thread Sharon Collier
I'm assuming you know about the ban on tartan and kilts after 1745. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Melissa B. Muckart
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 18th/19th century clothing resources

I've sending this in behalf of a friend who is looking for websites, books
or other reseruces as reference for 18th and 19th century clothing. The
paragraph below is a cut and paste from her email (with
permission):

The book I am editing is set in late 1700's-early 1800's Scotland. The
second book is early 1800's, set in the Caribbean islands (with English and
French, and island people) as well as London and Scotland, perhaps Paris.
Anything you send on costumes will be tucked away and used. 
It's so important to get these details right, so having resources I can
trust is huge.

If you have any suggestions of where she can look, please let me know, or
you can email me off-list if you prefer.

Thanks in advance,

Melissa
goslomo at gmail dot com

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RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

2008-02-28 Thread Sharon Collier
For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

Hi all,
I hate to do this, but i dont think that h-costume has any topics with my
interrests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i have desided to
leave.
Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope you will have
manny interresting disgussions in the future. 
Take care.

Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] What is a serious costumer?

2008-02-28 Thread Susan Carroll-Clark

Andrew Trembley wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Good evening to all of you and hope my series of questioning doesn't 
seem silly but for some reason I am still having trouble trying to 
decypher the difference between an amateur costumer (myself, one who 
has a general knowledge of a topic) and one who is a serious 
costumer, or professional.


A professional costumer is someone who loves costuming so much they're 
willing to work for far less money than they're worth so they don't 
have to do something else. It often involves a lot of production 
grunt-work making higher-margin dull and functional items so one can 
afford the time spent on fancy artistic projects.


An amateur costumer is anyone who does it for the fun and the art, 
regardless of skill level, without looking for financial compensation. 
Amateurs also can choose to only do the fun projects. 


I don't think the term professional costumer and serious costumer 
are synonymous, and neither of them are synonymous with costume 
scholar --although all three can and do overlap.


I know professionals who, frankly, are not nearly as talented as some 
amateurs I know.  I know professionals whose focus is outside the 
serious study of historical clothing and who are thus not costume 
scholars.  I know amateurs who are costume scholars, as well as a few 
who make some money off of costuming but not anything approaching a real 
salary.  Plenty of these are serious - but they're not professionals.


I also know costume scholars who are not in any real sense of the word 
costumers.  They study historic clothing and its aspects (textiles, 
etc.) but do not make costumes.


And I think the lines between all of these are not clear.  They're more 
like three intersecting circles describing one's involvement in costume 
and costume research.


I think we need to be careful about terminology.  Amateur has 
unfortunately lost most of its original, lovely meaning and is sometimes 
misinterpreted as unknowledgeable, second-rate, slapdash, etc.   The 
academic world has now evolved the term independent scholar, which is 
no longer quite the pejorative it once was.


Susan

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RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

2008-02-28 Thread otsisto
I think he has already left.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/

-Original Message-
For those of us, like me, who stupidly lost your website address, would you
please post it so that I can bookmark it and check out your wonderful work
from time to time?
Sharon C. 



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