[h-cost] Catching Up

2008-04-25 Thread Penny Ladnier
First, I want to thank everyone who helped two weeks ago with the dance terms 
and origins from the Ringling Mansion's Ballroom murals.  I compiled most of 
your answers and put them on the slideshow.  I know have a website for all the 
slideshows.  You can see them at www.costumeslideshows.com .  Scroll down to 
the John and Mabel Ringling Museum of Art and click on the Ballroom to view the 
show.  The American Dance panels are still questionable.  But I am researching. 
 

I am sorry for being late with the thank yous.  I have been working on several 
slideshows.  My contract with Ringling is that all their images,  are free 
access but can not be saved to the visitors computers.  Last week, I added 
another slideshow from the Ringling Museum's Circus Collection.  This showcases 
30 costumes with 95 photos.  I am alternating between putting slideshows online 
for the Ringling collection and VCU's.  When I finish the VCU slideshow that I 
am working on, I will be putting online either John Ringling wardrobe from the 
1920s-early 1930s or Mrs. Ringling rose garden statues...all representing the 
1700s.

H-costume was also discussing the HBO mini-series John Adams.  A good bit of 
the show was filmed in the Richmond, Virginia area.  A large set was built just 
north of the Richmond and used for early Boston, early and late Philly.  My 
son, Patrick, worked as a CGI extra for the reading of the Declaration of 
Independence (DofI) scene.  He took my camera to set and photographed the 
fifteen CGI extras.  I have a slideshow of these people on my slideshow site.  
It is also free access.  The business owner who supplied these costumes for the 
JA series was a member of h-costume.  I am not sure if she is still on the 
list, but I met her here.  The mini-series has a special On-Demand about how 
CGI was used heavily in the making of the show.  For example, the bottom floor 
of Independence Hall was on set in Richmond, the upper floor and roof was 
CGI-ed in.  Well, this group of CGI extras, were not really present when the 
principal actors read the DofI.  They moved around on set and wer!
 e filmed then they were CGI-ed into the scene.  The first second of the 
Reading scene on film, we counted my son at least 10 times.  Easy to spot the 
long brown ponytail...which is his natural hair and hairstyle.   

I need more help, please (batting my eyelashes, if that would help.)  
I am writing descriptions for dresses from 1910-1914.  My memory is brain-dead 
on a couple of terms.   Can you please look at two photographs and let me know 
what the terms are called.

1.  Image: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030368.jpg .  This is a skirt 
section of a dress.   The overdress has two panels hanging from the waist.  
They are gathered on the hanging end and married by a rosette.  My questions: 
Is there a period term for these hanging panels?  I know I have seen this same 
type of treatment for curtains.  But I can not even recall the name for this 
type of curtains.

2. Image: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429.jpg .  These medallions 
are borders on a three-tiered net dress.  My question:  What is the name of the 
type of hand-crochet around the medallions?  It is a cotton thread very similar 
what is used on doilies.  I am so embarrassed that I can't remember this term. 
I have made this type of crochet so many times.  It is made by using a double 
or triple crochet, then chain two or three and then repeat.  There are three 
rows of this type of crochet around each medallion.   
 
Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread Sharon Collier
About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own? 
About 30-35 (but 2 of those are Moda a Firenze and QEWU (bought from
Amazon/Canada for $192, which included shipping)

What was the first one you purchased? 
Historic Costume for the Stage 1974
 
Where did you purchase it? 
Humboldt State University for a costume class

What was your most recent purchase?
QEWU

What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
a publication?
A friend found the 3 Janet Arnold books at a garage sale and bought them for
under $20, then gave them to me

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?
Loads, because my family took lots of photos, then threw them in a box. If
anyone wants copies (some very nice turn of the century ones, I will scan
and email to you

What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
you would take it with you.
Besides pics of my kids, nothing.

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!
Let There Be Clothes

Do you have a room devoted to your collection?
no

When did you start collecting?
When I had some money

Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?
pleasure

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own?
One  
What types and age?
Husquevarna/Viking new this year, finally had to bite the bullet and get new
machine when old one (Elna) wouldn't work unless you picked it up and shook
it really hard

How many sewing patterns do you own? 
Tons, my friend, who was a costumer, gave me all she had after she decided
not to do shows anymore
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 9:03 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

This could be really fun to poll the list.  Lurkers come out, wherever you
are!

About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?

What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?

What was your most recent purchase?

What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
a publication?

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?

What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
you would take it with you.

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!

Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

When did you start collecting?

Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?

How many sewing patterns do you own? 

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeslideshows.com 

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Re: [h-cost] Catching Up

2008-04-25 Thread REBECCA BURCH
I don't know about Image 1, but Image 2 is bordered by
what my Grandmother called lattice work. I don't know
if that is general usage, but that is what I know it
to be.

--- Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 1.  Image:
 http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030368.jpg . 
 This is a skirt section of a dress.   The overdress
 has two panels hanging from the waist.  They are
 gathered on the hanging end and married by a
 rosette.  My questions: Is there a period term for
 these hanging panels?  I know I have seen this same
 type of treatment for curtains.  But I can not even
 recall the name for this type of curtains.
 
 2. Image:
 http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429.jpg . 
 These medallions are borders on a three-tiered net
 dress.  My question:  What is the name of the type
 of hand-crochet around the medallions?  It is a
 cotton thread very similar what is used on doilies. 
 I am so embarrassed that I can't remember this term.
 I have made this type of crochet so many times.  It
 is made by using a double or triple crochet, then
 chain two or three and then repeat.  There are three
 rows of this type of crochet around each medallion. 
  
  
 Penny Ladnier, 
 Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
 www.costumegallery.com
 www.costumelibrary.com
 www.costumeclassroom.com
 www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
 
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Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and 
the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread REBECCA BURCH

--- Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This could be really fun to poll the list.  Lurkers
 come out, wherever you are!
 
 About how many costume/fashion related books or
 magazines do you own?

Let's see - way too many to count. I have 3 two drawer
file cabinets with needlework/cross stitch, quilting,
weaving/spinning, and craft mags. Plus all the
needlework charts and patterns garnered from years of
trading with friends. Books on the same subjects as
well as all my costume books take up 4  48 shelves. 
 
 What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you
 purchase it?
Survey of Costumes for Theater. Mary Washington
College Bookstore, 1972.
 
 What was your most recent purchase?
Most recently I replaced my Janet Arnold Patterns of
Fashion 1560. I was stupid enough to lend my original
copy to someone who was very careless and allowed it
to be trashed. 
 
 What do you think was the best deal that you have
 every made when purchasing a publication?
When I scored about 10 books from the needlework
section of the library during the Buck a Bag sale they
have every year. All ten fit into one bag. Pays to
belong to the Friends of the Library and go to the
pre-sale!
 
 About how many period photographs do you own just
 for the costuming?
Do old fashion mags count? 
 
 What book or magazine is your most treasured...if
 your house was on fire, you would take it with you.
 
 What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know
 Robin has a collection!
I have some of the Dover publications. I don't use
them, but my kids gave them to me because they know I
like to sew Old timey stuff.

 Do you have a room devoted to your collection?
Yes, I do. My workroom holds just about everything.
 
 When did you start collecting?
Books, I have collected since childhood.  Needlework
and sewing since Jr. High. Costuming since college.

 Do you consider your collection for business or
 pleasure?
Both - 
 
 Optional questions:
 
 How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and
 age?
4 - Great-grandmother's treadle (1890s?), Grandma's
cabinet Singer (prob 40s), Mom's Featherweight, my
Bernina Dressmaker from 1983. And a Brother overlock
that I use on occasion to make ditty bags for the
Scouts. I also have loaned out to family members
several machines inherited from my Great Aunt Mabel,
but since I don't really expect to ever get them back
I won't count them.
 
 How many sewing patterns do you own? 
Until about a month ago I would have said at least
1000. I've been sewing for other people since High
School. I also inherited the sewing room contents of
my Grandmother and her sister(Aunt Mabel)- who never
got rid of anything. Because you never know when you
might need just that color or a little bit of that
color yarn or whatever. And for years I used to go
yardsaleing every weekend and buy whatever
sewing/crafting stuff I could find. Amazing what you
can find that way.

Unfortunately, last month while searching for
something in the storage room off the garage my hubby
discovered that the pattern boxes had become nesting
sites for many generations of mice. So I didn't even
sort through the boxes - most of them hadn't been
opened since we moved here 14 years ago - I just sent
them to the burn pile. So now I am down to the ones in
the house - probably about 50.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and 
the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread AnnBWass
 
In a message dated 4/25/2008 3:24:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What was  your most recent purchase?
Most recently I replaced my Janet Arnold  Patterns of
Fashion 1560. I was stupid enough to lend my original
copy  to someone who was very careless and allowed it
to be trashed.  



Good thing it was one you could easily replace!  I don't let my books  out, 
ever.  Don't want to risk the loss of a long out-of-print book that  would cost 
$100s to replace, if available.
 
And, speaking of that, the most I ever spent for a book is the Ackermann's  
furniture one.  Don't remember the title, as it lives at my office.   Bought it 
used for about $300--a friend of mine was fortunate enough to get a  copy in 
England many years ago, and I had to have one, too.
 
First book I ever bought was Wilcox's Mode in Costume.  Yes, I know  now 
that it is terrible, but it was one of the few costume books in my high  school 
library, and it really got me started.  So, when I saw it for $10 in  Florida, 
many years ago, I bought it.  Still have it, too, for sentimental  reasons.
 
I've run out of room for books, so I'm being pretty good about new one  in, 
old one out--passing on books on eras or topics I figure I'm pretty much  done 
with--either to individuals who can use them, or to the Costume Society of  
America silent auction every year.
 
Ann Wass



**Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car 
listings at AOL Autos.  
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851)
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread Hope Greenberg
Penny Ladnier wrote:
 About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
   
Far fewer than I used to. In a fit of anti-consumerism a few years ago I 
gave away a substantial portion of my library. Now I simply rely on the 
university library or ILL as needed.
 What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?
   
I had a couple survey-type books, and maybe some Dover's picked up 
second-hand, but the first I remember paying serious money for was Hill 
and Bucknell's Evolution of Fashion. I had fit on semi-permanent loan 
from the college library but then found my own copy in a bookstore in 
Manchester Center, VT, around 1979.

 What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing 
 a publication?
   
Hmmm...not exactly a purchase--more of a barter: a copy of Hunnisett's 
19th century Period Costume for Stage and Screen for helping someone 
make a muslin for a corset.
 About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?
   
Well, not too many photographs were taken in the periods I'm interested 
in :-). But I do have a nice bunch of photos taken during a private 
visit to the attic of the Fleming Museum, Burlington, VT.
 What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire, you 
 would take it with you.
   
My Godey's, definitely.
 What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!
   
I hate to say: I gave them away (I hate to admit to foisting them off on 
some unsuspecting person) but they included Norris and Peacock.

 Optional questions:

 How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?
   
3. The one I use(Viking), the Singer my Mom bought us in the 60's to 
learn to sew on that we can no longer get parts for, and the 1920s 
Singer she inherited from her mother that still kind of works except for 
the popping noises and burning oil smell...
 How many sewing patterns do you own? 
   
Got rid of most of those too. I still have about 2 dozen that I use 
various bits and pieces of, but mostly I just draft or drape my own.
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[h-cost] How many costume books do you have?

2008-04-25 Thread Leif og Bjarne Drews
I have not counted my books, but if i include books about embroidery and lace 
making i think i have collected about 400 books.
My best buy was last year where i found a book with all fashion engravings of 
Moreau Le Jeunne from 18th century and i  payed about 1000 kr. for it wich is 
about 200 dollars in a second hand bookshop in Rome.
My most valued books are Janet Arnolds pattern books and also Norah Waughs, 
they have always ben my compannions, and still are when i need to get more 
informations about a special style of dress.
The best portrait book must be one i got this winter a book with all Alexander 
Roslins portraits from 18th century. They are incredible, you can see clearly 
the dust powder from the wigs has sprayed down on their clothes, wich i never 
noticed before in any other painter.
A future book would be a homemade one, where i print out all the fashion 
engravings in my database from 18th century, but this would become my most 
expensive projekt.

Bjarne
 
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[h-cost] The Home for Wayward Bad Costume Books

2008-04-25 Thread Robin Netherton
This seems like a good time to make my periodic request:

Hope Greenberg wrote:
 What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!
   
 I hate to say: I gave them away (I hate to admit to foisting them off on 
 some unsuspecting person) but they included Norris and Peacock.

For those of you who want to dump your Bad Old Costume Books, no need to foist 
them off on unsuspecting victims! I will gladly pay for shipping to receive 
donations to the Robin Netherton Home for Wayward Bad Costume Books. I do use 
them constructively to improve the field. For one thing, I often get inquiries 
from well-meaning scholars (beginning costumers, or historians in other 
fields) who have found something on the library shelves and want my opinion on 
it, so it helps if I have the books and can see what they're looking at. More 
important, one of my favorite research approaches is to track back modern 
misconceptions through the costume literature of the last 200 years, comparing 
different sources to figure out where mistakes originated and how concepts 
mutated from one author to the next.

Donations are always welcome! It's for a good cause, and better than letting 
these things fall into the hands of people who might actually use them for 
costuming ;-)

--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread REBECCA BURCH
Wow, the Fleming Museum. I spent many days there when
I was a kid. My dad taught at the UVM College of
Forestry in the 60's and we would play on the grounds
while waiting for him. Do they still have the theater
in the basement? That was where I got my first taste
of costuming. 

My sister (7)and I(10) were messing around and came
across students spray painting chain mail for the
Shakespeare Festival and let us help. I don't remember
now if the outfits were knit or macrame, but they were
made of rug type yarn and were being painted silver. I
talked my folks into taking me to the show and
remember being really struck by how very different
things looked on stage versus off.

I also broke my arm running down that big hill in the
front. Do they still have the ice cream factory? Man,
all sorts of memories popping up now! It was a really
cool place to grow up.
--- Hope Greenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  About how many period photographs do you own just
 for the costuming?

 Well, not too many photographs were taken in the
 periods I'm interested 
 in :-). But I do have a nice bunch of photos taken
 during a private 
 visit to the attic of the Fleming Museum,
 Burlington, VT.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and 
the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Re: [h-cost] The Home for Wayward Bad Costume Books

2008-04-25 Thread Pixel, Goddess and Queen

Do you by chance have a list of the ones you already own, so you don't end 
up with duplicates?

Jen

On Fri, 25 Apr 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:

 This seems like a good time to make my periodic request:

 For those of you who want to dump your Bad Old Costume Books, no need to foist
 them off on unsuspecting victims! I will gladly pay for shipping to receive
 donations to the Robin Netherton Home for Wayward Bad Costume Books. I do use
 them constructively to improve the field. For one thing, I often get inquiries
 from well-meaning scholars (beginning costumers, or historians in other
 fields) who have found something on the library shelves and want my opinion on
 it, so it helps if I have the books and can see what they're looking at. More
 important, one of my favorite research approaches is to track back modern
 misconceptions through the costume literature of the last 200 years, comparing
 different sources to figure out where mistakes originated and how concepts
 mutated from one author to the next.

 Donations are always welcome! It's for a good cause, and better than letting
 these things fall into the hands of people who might actually use them for
 costuming ;-)

 --Robin

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Re: [h-cost] The Home for Wayward Bad Costume Books

2008-04-25 Thread Robin Netherton
Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:
 Do you by chance have a list of the ones you already own, so you don't end 
 up with duplicates?

I ask people to e-mail me first before sending, and then I can check. They're 
all one one bookcase together, about 30 of them, so it's easy to see what I 
have.

--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread monica spence

About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
Hundreds. My library is better than most public libraries-- at least for
art,  history and costume.

What was the first one you purchased?  197O (when I was in college)  Where
did you purchase it? Have no clue. Memory fails after a certain age. :-)

What was your most recent purchase? The new Henry VIII book (I can't
remember the title-- We are doing kitchen renovation and my brain is fried)

What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
a publication? Roy Strong-- English Icons. Bought used for about $20. Also
his Elizabethan  Jacobean Portraits-- 2 volumes. Pristine. $45.00

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming? A
gazillion. I keep them in photo protective sheets in the largest 3 ring
binder made.

What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
you would take it with you. Moda di Firenze. I have two copies (one is a
gift). Since I am writing about Cosimo and Eleonora, it is my best
reference. Of course, if push came to shove, I'd grab my manuscripts for the
3 books I've written. (on portable hard drive sticks)  

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!
Me too. Mode in Costume by Ruth Turner Wilcox tops my list.

Do you have a room devoted to your collection? Actually several. We have a
library which houses Art and History. My dressmaking patternmaking and
costume history are in the sewing room. The other books are in our bedroom,
our guest room and the computer room. Not to mention the stuff under the
eaves. 

When did you start collecting? 1970
Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure? Both. I was a
costume designer for 6 years, a fashion designer for 24, and now I teach
fashion history. Plus I am in the SCA.

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own? 4 . What types and age? 3 straight
stitch (one lives with my brother) and  a serger. The straight stitch
machines are 1940s and 1950s vintage Singers. The Serger is probably 15
years old and also a Singer. 

How many sewing patterns do you own? Commercial: less than 30. I make my own
patterns for the SCA garb since I am also a professional patternmaker.

Monica Spence


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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You

2008-04-25 Thread A. Thurman
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
  Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
  Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 9:03 PM
  To: h-costume
  Subject: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

  This could be really fun to poll the list.  Lurkers come out, wherever you
  are!

  About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?

[looks around at several shelves] I don't know. I'm guessing 100, at
least, and probably more.


  What was the first one you purchased?  Where did you purchase it?

2nd ed. of Survey of Historic Costume for the college costume
history course that started me on this crazy path!

  What was your most recent purchase?

North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment (waiting for it to get here)

  What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
  a publication?

Without question, the ~$35 copy of QEWU acquired when Amazon.co.uk
misprinted the price on their site a few years back :P

  About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming?

Photos- none, but quite a few art books just for the paintings.

  What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
  you would take it with you.

I can't even begin to choose!

  What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!

I probably have Peacock lying around here somewhere. I sold the Norris
a few years back.

  Do you have a room devoted to your collection?

Yes.

  When did you start collecting?

I'm not exactly when it turned from occasional purchases building up
to full-on collecting - possibly when I discovered the joys of
half.com :P

  Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure?

Pleasure, definitely, though I do think some costume
construction/design philosophies translate to other practical creative
endeavors.

  Optional questions:

  How many sewing machines do you own?  What types and age?

3 - one fairly new; two from ca. 1975 that I need to do something with
(either fix and use or sell)

  How many sewing patterns do you own?

I'm scared to know! I started collecting Vogue patterns by Miyake
about the same time I started collecting books...

  Penny Ladnier,

Allison T.
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