Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread Dianne

Get an old black Singer sewing machine, one that does straight stitch.
Cheap, and you can't kill it.  A model 201 or 15-91, or 301 slant stitch

Hear hear! I adore my Singer 99K, it does everything I want and it's 
gorgeous too.


Dianne 


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Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread cbellfleur

 Not the kind you are thinking of!? Just from the valleys between the hills of 
West (BG) VA.? 



 (It's a problem with AOL mail.)

Catherine


 

-Original Message-
From: Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2009 10:02 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines










Either that or she's a valley girl.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf 
Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 5:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

Cathy R.?

Just curious... how come your sentences all end with a .? Is that a  
PC/Mac issue?

 == Marjorie Wilser




 

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[h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Cherylyn Crill
Good Morning All,
 
I am attempting to help a friend who is having some trouble in drafting a 
sleeve pattern for her 16th dress. Awhile ago I ran into a ‘sleeve head’ 
drafting tutorial on the net: The document wasn’t really a ‘how to’ on drafting 
sleeve heads, so much as an explanation of why changes to the curve of the head 
changed the fit of the sleeve, etc.
 
Having done some Googling, I can’t seem to locate this same site. Anyone have 
any ideas on where it may be?
 
~Cherylyn


  
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Re: [h-cost] Gown Doublet for a King's Servant Esquire of The Body?

2009-10-08 Thread Maggie
I'm curious--and not wanting to start a range war or anything--but is the
Authentic SCA a different organization from the SCA, Inc.?



Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 4:57 PM, julian wilson smnc...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

[...]

   I do living history with the Authentic SCA - and have been thinking for
 some time that I should treat myself to some special clothes suitable for
 their Courts and Feasts,
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Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread Ann Catelli
I have a 15-91 (from 1951, for a bit of confusion) as my primary machine, and I 
adore it. 

Make sure you get the right bobbins, if you go this route.  
The 15 in my machine's name means it takes Class 15 bobbins.  The old metal 
ones are best, but every JoAnn's sells plastic class 15 bobbins. :)

The old straight-stitch machines are great workhorses, to make just about 
anything you could imagine.  
If you look, you can find specialty feet that do all sorts of things--
Hemming feet that turn in a tiny hem  hold it for the sewing, 
Gathering feet that put in tiny pleats after a set number of stitches,
Bias-feeding feet that help you put bias binding onto a piece of fabric,
Buttonholer, etc.

I'm currently playing with a hemstitcher, that puts holes into the fabric and 
pulls the fabric all around to put stitches where needed. :o The throat plate 
needs to be changed for this one, so the spike that pokes the holes does not 
damage the machine and to cover the feed dogs.

And you can use it a lot while considering if you need other bells  whistles.  
You can kill these machines, but learning how to oil the beastie will make it 
live nearly forever.

Good luck finding a machine that suits you.

Oh, and when you are test-driving a machine, make sure you bring some fabric 
samples; most machines sew pretty well on thin starched fabric like the samples 
the sellers will offer for your test drive.

Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 10/8/09, Dianne goo...@comcast.net wrote:

 Get an old black Singer sewing
 machine, one that does straight stitch.
 Cheap, and you can't kill it.  A model 201 or 15-91,
 or 301 slant stitch
 
 Hear hear! I adore my Singer 99K, it does everything I want
 and it's gorgeous too.
 
 Dianne 


  
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Re: [h-cost] Gown Doublet for a King's Servant Esquire of The Body?

2009-10-08 Thread julian wilson
Yes, you are quite right, Kimiko.
 Sorry, everyone, - posting this was a tired man's mistake.
Julian Wilson

--- On Thu, 8/10/09, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gown  Doublet for a King's Servant  Esquire of The Body?
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Thursday, 8 October, 2009, 4:24

OOOooops! I think you might want to take this off list. 
 Kimiko





From: julian wilson smnc...@yahoo.co.uk
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, October 7, 2009 4:57:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Gown  Doublet for a King's Servant  Esquire of The Body?

Debbie,
 I saw your posts on this List, and am reminded you make historical costumes 
professionally.


      
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Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Marjorie Wilser
Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve  
heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and  
that set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial  
might not be ideal.


== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 8, 2009, at 8:29 AM, Cherylyn Crill wrote:


Good Morning All,

I am attempting to help a friend who is having some trouble in  
drafting a sleeve pattern for her 16th dress. Awhile ago I ran into  
a ‘sleeve head’ drafting tutorial on the net: The document wasn’t  
really a ‘how to’ on drafting sleeve heads, so much as an  
explanation of why changes to the curve of the head changed the fit  
of the sleeve, etc.


Having done some Googling, I can’t seem to locate this same site.  
Anyone have any ideas on where it may be?


~Cherylyn



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Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread Käthe Barrows
For a while in the 80s it seemed like fancy computerized sewing machines
were a status symbol among my costuming friends.  It seemed like they all
had to have the latest and greatest (and most expensive) electronic sewing
machines out there.  Some of their machines did cross stitch almost as nice
as mine, so they were very impressed that I did mine by hand.  In fact I
became known for my handwork.

This handwork is only partly because I discovered embroidery, and ethnic
surface decoration back in my Hippie days, before some of those folks were
born, and partly because I have the patience to recreate it.  But it's also
because I could never afford such a fancy machine, preferring my old,
all-metal machine that did nothing but sew.  I learned that I got more
control when I held the needle.  I learned things that a machine still can't
do, like putting the needle in one place and bringing it out another.  And I
learned to be more content with things that I had than things which money I
didn't have could buy.

Get a reconditioned workhorse of a machine and it will outlive you.


The old straight-stitch machines are great workhorses, to make just about
 anything you could imagine.
 If you look, you can find specialty feet that do all sorts of things--
 Hemming feet that turn in a tiny hem  hold it for the sewing,
 Gathering feet that put in tiny pleats after a set number of stitches,
 Bias-feeding feet that help you put bias binding onto a piece of fabric,
 Buttonholer, etc.


-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”   -William
Gibson
--
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Re: [h-cost] Gown Doublet for a King's Servant Esquire of The Body?

2009-10-08 Thread julian wilson
No, it's an informal sub-group of gentles all over the Known World, [with an 
online Group of that name], who seem to give especial attention raising their 
standards of authenticity in their hobby of medieval living-history...

Maggie, and everyone else on the List, - I could have sworn I'd sent that 
e-mail privately, too. Many apologies.
 Please disregard the content.

Julian Wilson

--- On Thu, 8/10/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote:


I'm curious--and not wanting to start a range war or anything--but is the
Authentic SCA a different organization from the SCA, Inc.?
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Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Cherylyn Crill
This is true, so I guess any historic sleeve tutorial would be appreciated as 
well!

--- On Thu, 10/8/09, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:


From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:15 AM


Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve 
heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and that 
set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial might not be 
ideal.

    == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 8, 2009, at 8:29 AM, Cherylyn Crill wrote:

 Good Morning All,
 
 I am attempting to help a friend who is having some trouble in drafting a 
 sleeve pattern for her 16th dress. Awhile ago I ran into a ‘sleeve head’ 
 drafting tutorial on the net: The document wasn’t really a ‘how to’ on 
 drafting sleeve heads, so much as an explanation of why changes to the curve 
 of the head changed the fit of the sleeve, etc.
 
 Having done some Googling, I can’t seem to locate this same site. Anyone have 
 any ideas on where it may be?
 
 ~Cherylyn
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Maggie
The problem is making the sleeve head match the armseye. You should be able
to do this with a flexible ruler and some graph paper. Someone who has
taken the sleeves workshop at Costume College (which I did but have no
useful notes from) might be able to elaborate on the process.

MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.comwrote:

 This is true, so I guess any historic sleeve tutorial would be appreciated
 as well!

 --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:


 From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:15 AM


 Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve
 heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and that
 set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial might not be
 ideal.



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Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Cherylyn Crill
*nods* Yeppers, that was why I was interested in finding the original website, 
it discussed some of the 'fit' issues and how certain modifications (depth of 
curve, width of curve, etc.) made a difference in this. 

--- On Thu, 10/8/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote:


From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:59 AM


The problem is making the sleeve head match the armseye. You should be able
to do this with a flexible ruler and some graph paper. Someone who has
taken the sleeves workshop at Costume College (which I did but have no
useful notes from) might be able to elaborate on the process.

MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.comwrote:

 This is true, so I guess any historic sleeve tutorial would be appreciated
 as well!

 --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:


 From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:15 AM


 Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve
 heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and that
 set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial might not be
 ideal.



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Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread LuAnn Mason

AND if you're addicted to magnetic pin-and-stuff-holders (like I am) your 
computerized machine will fry from the magnet.  Ugh.  Give me the old machines, 
any time.  

LuAnn

 Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 09:17:33 -0700
 From: kay...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines
 
 For a while in the 80s it seemed like fancy computerized sewing machines
 were a status symbol among my costuming friends.  It seemed like they all
 had to have the latest and greatest (and most expensive) electronic sewing
 machines out there.  Some of their machines did cross stitch almost as nice
 as mine, so they were very impressed that I did mine by hand.  In fact I
 became known for my handwork.
 
 This handwork is only partly because I discovered embroidery, and ethnic
 surface decoration back in my Hippie days, before some of those folks were
 born, and partly because I have the patience to recreate it.  But it's also
 because I could never afford such a fancy machine, preferring my old,
 all-metal machine that did nothing but sew.  I learned that I got more
 control when I held the needle.  I learned things that a machine still can't
 do, like putting the needle in one place and bringing it out another.  And I
 learned to be more content with things that I had than things which money I
 didn't have could buy.
 
 Get a reconditioned workhorse of a machine and it will outlive you.
 
 
 The old straight-stitch machines are great workhorses, to make just about
  anything you could imagine.
  If you look, you can find specialty feet that do all sorts of things--
  Hemming feet that turn in a tiny hem  hold it for the sewing,
  Gathering feet that put in tiny pleats after a set number of stitches,
  Bias-feeding feet that help you put bias binding onto a piece of fabric,
  Buttonholer, etc.
 
 
 -- 
 Carolyn Kayta Barrows
 --
 “The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”   -William
 Gibson
 --
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
  
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[h-cost] Magnets and machines

2009-10-08 Thread Kim Baird
LuAnn--

There is one exception to your statement--Bernina. Bernina computerized
machines do not use magnetic memory, and magnets will not harm them. I've
tried it, and it's true.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 12:21 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines


AND if you're addicted to magnetic pin-and-stuff-holders (like I am) your
computerized machine will fry from the magnet.  Ugh.  Give me the old
machines, any time.  

LuAnn

 

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Re: [h-cost] Magnets and machines

2009-10-08 Thread LuAnn Mason

Oh, good to know!  Bernina was always my favorite, and I'm in the market for a 
new machine.

LuAnn

 From: kba...@cableone.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 12:25:06 -0500
 Subject: [h-cost] Magnets and machines
 
 LuAnn--
 
 There is one exception to your statement--Bernina. Bernina computerized
 machines do not use magnetic memory, and magnets will not harm them. I've
 tried it, and it's true.
 
 Kim
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
 Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 12:21 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines
 
 
 AND if you're addicted to magnetic pin-and-stuff-holders (like I am) your
 computerized machine will fry from the magnet.  Ugh.  Give me the old
 machines, any time.  
 
 LuAnn
 
  
 
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Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Guenievre de Monmarche
I suspect you might mean this one?
http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/SleeveClass.pdf

Guenièvre



On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 1:03 PM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.comwrote:

 *nods* Yeppers, that was why I was interested in finding the original
 website, it discussed some of the 'fit' issues and how certain modifications
 (depth of curve, width of curve, etc.) made a difference in this.

 --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote:


 From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:59 AM


 The problem is making the sleeve head match the armseye. You should be able
 to do this with a flexible ruler and some graph paper. Someone who has
 taken the sleeves workshop at Costume College (which I did but have no
 useful notes from) might be able to elaborate on the process.

 MaggiRos


 Maggie Secara
 ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
 Available at your favorite online bookseller
 See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


 On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.com
 wrote:

  This is true, so I guess any historic sleeve tutorial would be
 appreciated
  as well!
 
  --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
  From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:15 AM
 
 
  Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve
  heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and that
  set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial might not
 be
  ideal.
 
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)

2009-10-08 Thread Cherylyn Crill
*ding ding ding*
 
Yes! Thank you!

--- On Thu, 10/8/09, Guenievre de Monmarche guenie...@erminespot.com wrote:


From: Guenievre de Monmarche guenie...@erminespot.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 10:49 AM


I suspect you might mean this one?
http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/SleeveClass.pdf

Guenièvre



On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 1:03 PM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.comwrote:

 *nods* Yeppers, that was why I was interested in finding the original
 website, it discussed some of the 'fit' issues and how certain modifications
 (depth of curve, width of curve, etc.) made a difference in this.

 --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote:


 From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:59 AM


 The problem is making the sleeve head match the armseye. You should be able
 to do this with a flexible ruler and some graph paper. Someone who has
 taken the sleeves workshop at Costume College (which I did but have no
 useful notes from) might be able to elaborate on the process.

 MaggiRos


 Maggie Secara
 ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
 Available at your favorite online bookseller
 See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


 On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.com
 wrote:

  This is true, so I guess any historic sleeve tutorial would be
 appreciated
  as well!
 
  --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
  From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:15 AM
 
 
  Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve
  heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and that
  set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial might not
 be
  ideal.
 
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread CC2010Milw
Anyone here familiar with the model 830? There is an auction for one here 
in Wisconsin. Opening bid is $20.

Henry W. Osier
Chairman, Costume-Con 28
May 7 to May 10, 2010
www.CC28.org
Look for our fan page on Facebook!
And on Twitter: CostumeCon28
Got questions? 
Join the CostumeCon Yahoo group! 
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Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread Kim Baird
The 830 is an older model, it is NOT electronic or computerized.

However, everyone who owns one LOVES it. I've known owners to put a new
motor in an old 830 rather than buy a newer Bernina.

It must be a real workhorse. 

If you are considering buying this one, see if it has lots of presser
feet--they are getting harder to find. And if you don't know the history of
the machine, I wouldn't bid much over that $20. It could need costly service
or repairs.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cc2010m...@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 4:45 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines

Anyone here familiar with the model 830? There is an auction for one here in
Wisconsin. Opening bid is $20.

Henry W. Osier
Chairman, Costume-Con 28
May 7 to May 10, 2010
www.CC28.org
Look for our fan page on Facebook!
And on Twitter: CostumeCon28
Got questions? 
Join the CostumeCon Yahoo group! 
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Re: [h-cost] Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy

2009-10-08 Thread Susan Farmer

Quoting sunshine.k.buch...@kp.org:




*blush* should've checked on the spelling of Birbari's name, thank you for
the correction! I like her for a couple reasons, although you are right;
she is limited. I appreciate the time she spends analyzing styles (like
the sheer overdress) that in the survey books are glossed over in favor of
the more standard Italian Renaissance look. From a purely academic
standpoint I admire the time she takes to argue that you _can_ use Italian
paintings c. 1460-80 as an accurate portrayal of construction. While with
Van der Wyden and the northern painters that seems like an obvious
statement, for the Italian style I thought it was an assumption worth
questioning.
Best of luck acquiring a copy!


Thanks!  That is a very good point about Birbari.  And I got a good  
hint there on how to do the sleeves in the Cossa paintings (those  
things that looks sorta like leg-o-mutton sleeves).


susan
-
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines

2009-10-08 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On Oct 8, 2009, at 2:45 PM, cc2010m...@cs.com wrote:
Anyone here familiar with the model 830? There is an auction for one  
here

in Wisconsin. Opening bid is $20.


The Bernina Record 830 is a tank. I think Karen and Ricky use them as  
shop machines.


andy
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