Re: [h-cost] Can someone remind me what painting this is?
*The Mass at Bolsena* is a painting http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Painting by the Italian http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italy renaissancehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance artist Raphael http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raphael. It was painted between 1512 and 1514 [1]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mass_at_Bolsena#cite_note-1 as part of Raphael's commission to decorate with frescoeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresco the rooms that are now known as the Raphael Roomshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raphael_Rooms, in the Apostolic Palace http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apostolic_Palace in the Vatican http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vatican_City. It is located in the *Stanza di Eliodoro*, which is named after *The Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Expulsion_of_Heliodorus_from_the_Temple*. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mass_at_Bolsena Challe Hudson On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote: Poor old brain can't remember where this is from. http://www.oocities.org/i2amsocial/2-55_1__1_.jpg Thanks ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] mid to late 15th century English women's clothing
This time period is just prior to my favorite research era, England in 1495-1503 (when Elizabeth of York, Henry VII's queen, was on the throne and fashion was in transition between the gown you cite and the styles of Henry VIII). I have not attempted to make a gown quite like this one, but I have hunted for images. There pretty much AREN'T any. Either they were destroyed, or they never existed. I can send you one gem of an image from Writhe's Garter Book. It is black and white, but crisp, and shows a noble woman from the side, so you have an excellent view of the gown (with a clear waist seam) the back of the collar (with an interesting -- not smoothly rounded -- shape in the back down her spine), her cuffs (presumably fur) and hat (not matching the cuffs) plus a faint idea of some jewelry around her neck, and a clear view of her belt and attached pomander. According to a history of illumination book (sorry, can't find my notes with author or title right now...grrr) there were no illuminators working in England during that span of time who painted books of hours or other devotional materials -- the illuminations from which we can glean useful costume ideas. The English painters only did things like charters and rolls of arms (no people on them) -- all devotional materials were imported from the continent. I also haven't found portraits except the one you mention. I know that memorial brasses are hard to use to design costume, but I've collected lots of images of those, and my interpretation of them is that the hatch lines on the collars and hems indicated fur. Look at the man's gown in the third image you link -- it appears to me that his outer garment is fur lined, and toward the bottom the edges turn back so that you can see that fur. The hatch marks there look like the marks on the woman's collar. Based on the histories of Memorial Brasses that I've read (this time I have references! see Monumental Brasses as Art and History edited by Jerome Bertram) brasses in this era were purchased not by the most elite nobility -- they more often bought carved tombs and effigies -- but were bought by the more wealthy gentry and less fortunate noble families. Presumably they represented their best dress. Being England, where wool was a source of patriotic pride, I would venture the guess that wool is highly appropriate for the gown, and that fur is the best collar but a fancy silk velvet brocade might be acceptable if you were, say, Elizabeth of Woodville. I suspect that the silk you have would be best employed on the hat itself. Challe On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 8:01 AM, Elizabeth W elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com wrote: I'm seeking images of mid to late 15th century (Yorkist or early Henry VII era) women's clothing in England Thus far the only portrait I've found is Elizabeth Woodville http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ElizabethWoodville.JPG I like that slightly rounded neckline and the contrasting collar but I'm hoping to try for something that would be more plausible lower down the social scale e.g. gentry level best dress I've found some brass rubbings e.g. http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/page245.html http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1406326 http://professor-moriarty.com/info/section/church-monument-art/15th-century-church-monuments-thomas-andrewes-brass-church-charwelton-no but they don't really help with fabric choice. I'm trying to find more examples so that I can work out if Elizabeth Woodville's use of a plain fabric for the gown and a fancier fabric for the collar and cuffs is normal or an anomaly and especially if matching her mini hennin to the collar and cuffs is normal (as I've got about 1/2 yd of silk which should just cover the collar and cuffs but won't manage the hat as well) -- -- Elizabeth Walpole http://magpiecostumer.wordpress.com/ http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress
My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday gown for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case that makes a difference). These pages have information she's found useful (though she hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her with fittings and we've made up patterns as we went along). What she needs to know now is: where is the opening in the skirt so that you can get it on? And how does the skirt close? If you have any other useful links, images, or construction tips, that would be appreciated, too. http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm thanks! Challe ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] making a c. 1500 Venetian Men's shirt
I am trying to recreate a young Venetian man's costume of roughly 1495-1500. I am looking at a lot of Carpaccio paintings -- I especially like Healing of the Possessed Man at the Rialto Bridge (http://www.vittorecarpaccio.org/The-Healing-of-the-Madman-c.-1496-large.html) because I like the detail of the shirts and zupons worn by the gondoliers. This detail from The Arrival of the English Ambassadors is useful for seeing noblemen, who have on (roughly) the same shirt and zupon layer, and then another layer over that. (http://www.1st-art-gallery.com/Vittore-Carpaccio/The-Arrival-Of-The-English-Ambassadors,-Detail,-From-The-St.-Ursula-Cycle,-1498-%28detail%29.html). I've made a first pass at recreating the zupon, and am satisfied with it. But I can't get to contemplating the outer layer, because I can't even figure out that shirt. It has got to be huge, to have so much fabric puffing out at the neck and sleeves. Stella Mary Newton, in The Dress of the Venetians 1495-1525, describes a publication from 1506 forbidding “shirts taking six braza of linen each to make (1 braza = c. 1 yd)” which was issued because this “evil and damnable custom” had been adopted by the young men in the city. So it was puffy, and took a lot of linen. But how was it shaped? Was all the fullness in the front, given that the gondoliers clothes look trim and fitted on the backs? What was the neckline like? How did it slip over the head and close, when the only traces in portraiture I can find of the neck show a single unbroken, unfolded edge of white? (See, for example, this portait, http://www.vittorecarpaccio.org/Portrait-of-an-Unknown-Man-with-Red-Beret-1490-93.html, or some by Giovanni Bellini.) I have a guess that those many tiny folds may have been secured by rows of smocking stitches at the collar, but I have no evidence to support this theory. Has anyone attempted to recreate this? Know of other sources I should peruse? (The images I cited are available larger and better at Web Gallery of Art -- I just can't link to them there.) Many thanks, Challe ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
