Re: [h-cost] Cranach Gown Project, was: Re: what is everyone working on?

2013-04-04 Thread Sheridan
That's the one. :0)   I could just wear my bra under my garb, but where is
the fun in that? 

Sheridan P.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sybella
Sent: April-04-13 2:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach Gown Project, was: Re: what is everyone
working on?

I think Sheridan was talking about this:

http://www.livescience.com/21691-600-year-old-medieval-bras-discovered.html
http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/20/medieval-bras-history-wo
men-support

Quite fascinating! Especially considering it changes everything we thought
we knew about bra history.

'Bella



On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 11:05 AM, Sharon Henderson <
henderson.sha...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a fun project, Sheridan!
>
> Is there a website or a reference where we could see the "bra finds", 
> and will you post pics of the resulting shift?  A Cranach gown has 
> been on my Wanna Do This List for ages.  :)
>
> Cheers,
> Meli
>
> On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 2:00 PM, Sheridan wrote:
>
> >
> > Currently I'm working on a Saxony/Cranach style gown, from the skin out.
> > Starting with a shift based on those Medieval 'bra' finds from a few
> years
> > ago, and finishing with a giant hat full of feathers. :0)
> >
> > Currently I have part of the shift draped, just needs to be sewn, 
> > trimmed and then turned into a final pattern. I've got the test run 
> > of a chemise/shirt currently on my dress form, awaiting some buttons 
> > and a bit of tweaking. (Not completely happy with the pattern I 
> > drafted) There is
> also a
> > gollar that I had to do some major re-working on (I used a 
> > commercial pattern, and I'm very un-pleased about the fit) and I'm 
> > now at the
> trimming
> > stage with it. Fabric for the gown has been sitting in my stash for 
> > over
> 10
> > years, I finally found and purchased my border fabric this weekend 
> > and I found my stash of ribbons/trims that I have been stockpiling 
> > for this outfit over the years.
> >
> > Finally hit critical mass with this one, so it's time to sew!
> >
> > Sheridan P.
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Re: [h-cost] Cranach Gown Project, was: Re: what is everyone working on?

2013-04-04 Thread Sybella
I think Sheridan was talking about this:

http://www.livescience.com/21691-600-year-old-medieval-bras-discovered.html
http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/20/medieval-bras-history-women-support

Quite fascinating! Especially considering it changes everything we thought
we knew about bra history.

'Bella



On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 11:05 AM, Sharon Henderson <
henderson.sha...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a fun project, Sheridan!
>
> Is there a website or a reference where we could see the "bra finds", and
> will you post pics of the resulting shift?  A Cranach gown has been on my
> Wanna Do This List for ages.  :)
>
> Cheers,
> Meli
>
> On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 2:00 PM, Sheridan wrote:
>
> >
> > Currently I'm working on a Saxony/Cranach style gown, from the skin out.
> > Starting with a shift based on those Medieval 'bra' finds from a few
> years
> > ago, and finishing with a giant hat full of feathers. :0)
> >
> > Currently I have part of the shift draped, just needs to be sewn, trimmed
> > and then turned into a final pattern. I've got the test run of a
> > chemise/shirt currently on my dress form, awaiting some buttons and a bit
> > of
> > tweaking. (Not completely happy with the pattern I drafted) There is
> also a
> > gollar that I had to do some major re-working on (I used a commercial
> > pattern, and I'm very un-pleased about the fit) and I'm now at the
> trimming
> > stage with it. Fabric for the gown has been sitting in my stash for over
> 10
> > years, I finally found and purchased my border fabric this weekend and I
> > found my stash of ribbons/trims that I have been stockpiling for this
> > outfit
> > over the years.
> >
> > Finally hit critical mass with this one, so it's time to sew!
> >
> > Sheridan P.
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[h-cost] Cranach Gown Project, was: Re: what is everyone working on?

2013-04-04 Thread Sharon Henderson
Sounds like a fun project, Sheridan!

Is there a website or a reference where we could see the "bra finds", and
will you post pics of the resulting shift?  A Cranach gown has been on my
Wanna Do This List for ages.  :)

Cheers,
Meli

On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 2:00 PM, Sheridan wrote:

>
> Currently I'm working on a Saxony/Cranach style gown, from the skin out.
> Starting with a shift based on those Medieval 'bra' finds from a few years
> ago, and finishing with a giant hat full of feathers. :0)
>
> Currently I have part of the shift draped, just needs to be sewn, trimmed
> and then turned into a final pattern. I've got the test run of a
> chemise/shirt currently on my dress form, awaiting some buttons and a bit
> of
> tweaking. (Not completely happy with the pattern I drafted) There is also a
> gollar that I had to do some major re-working on (I used a commercial
> pattern, and I'm very un-pleased about the fit) and I'm now at the trimming
> stage with it. Fabric for the gown has been sitting in my stash for over 10
> years, I finally found and purchased my border fabric this weekend and I
> found my stash of ribbons/trims that I have been stockpiling for this
> outfit
> over the years.
>
> Finally hit critical mass with this one, so it's time to sew!
>
> Sheridan P.
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[h-cost] cranach gown

2007-10-08 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
I'll rather send this to all so that everyone who is interested can order 
something. Here:

http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/rundschau.pdf  

is a list of things they offer, and there should be all information necessary 
for the order. The first two books are the ones that come in question, and the 
"Kleider and Blusen" book for the sloper (they claim there is one, so let's 
hope they're right).Anyway, I can give you this necessary "sloper" information 
myself, so that you have something to start with. Just contact me privately:-)

I've called them and asked whether there was any additional information (like 
sloper) for the men's historical patterns necessary, and they told me no. So no 
need to order anything more for the men's patterns. (Actually, I wouldn't be 
too sure about this, but as soon as I get this book I'll let you know - I 
should get it till the end of October, but I hope it'll come sooner:-))

It's all in German, unfortunately, BUT as I said, you won't need it much... I 
don't read the texts either...even though they are interesting, but I wouldn't 
say necessary. You only have to understand the basics, but then it's ok... 
Anyway, Bambi said she would be so kind and translate something, if you needed 
it, and you can ask me too, but since I'm not an English native speaker, I'll 
never be so good:-)

Zuzana



   
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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-08 Thread Bambi TBNL

Hi,
  I dont mean to inturrupts but..
  If you need help with the captions nd such,I spent 5 years in German schools 
and though I 'm no official trnsltor,and it hs been  while, Id love to help.
  Bambi

Saragrace Knauf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Page 8 of this pdf document looks promising. It is pretty small, but I bet 
you the first 3 are what you are looking for.

Sg


- Original Message - 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

>
> Here's some information:
>
> http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67
>  

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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-08 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Page 8 of this pdf document looks promising.  It is pretty small, but I bet 
you the first 3 are what you are looking for.

Sg


- Original Message - 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

>
> Here's some information:
>
> http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67
>  

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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-08 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
Yes, it is. It's a company that specializes on drafting patterns, modern, of 
course, and they sell a magazine which includes a pattern drafting section. The 
magazines are two: "Damenrundschau" and "Herrenrundschau". They publish books 
that collect the articles in the magazines, sorted by topic, like "Dresses", 
"Coats", and "Historical patterns - for men" and "Historical patterns - for 
women". I think the men's historical patterns are better, they include more 
patterns. But I've just glanced through, I don't have them, but am going to 
order them.

The point is that you need to know how to make the basic dress sloper. That's 
explained once in a few years in the magazines or, it's in a separate book 
called "Kleider und Blusen". But that one costs around 100 euros and there are 
many modern garments, variations of dresses and such. 

It is a very good drafting method that they use, the best and most detailed one 
I've tried. You've got to learn quite a lot of thinks at the beginning to 
understand it, but when you get into it it's quite ok.

Unfortunately, they don't have any real webpage, so the only thing I could do 
for you is to scan what they offer and the ordering card (but I believe you can 
order by mail too).

Here's some information:

http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67

I think Fran from Lavolta Press has it, so you can ask her for her opinion, I 
don't know how much was she able to use it as, I think, she didn't have any 
information on how to do the sloper.

Zuzana

P.S.: All the publications are in German but you can do without the text. The 
only thing you have to understand is the sloper and you can get someone 
translate it for you - that's for all others who read this, as I believe that 
Bjarne can speak German...



Bjarne og Leif Drews <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Do you have a title and ISBN 
nr.?
Seems to be a very interresting book!

Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown


> If you do pattern drafting, there is a German book on drafting historical 
> costumes and the Cranach gown is in it, it includes the drafting of the 
> top, sleeves (just the basic ones, all the puffs are on you), and three 
> possibilities of how to make the skirt. I use this book a lot and though I 
> haven't made directly this costume, the drafting methods are good and 
> usually lead to a good solution:-)
>
> It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting 
> magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting 
> instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th 
> century.
>
>
>
> Beteena Paradise  wrote: I already have the 
> Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so 
> much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the 
> pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get 
> Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
>
>  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by 
> sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or 
> regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight 
> between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton 
> velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking 
> of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and 
> then do one in the grander fabrics.
>
> Amy Cooper
> wrote:
>
> Have you given any thought to patterns yet?
>
> -Amy
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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-07 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Do you have a title and ISBN nr.?
Seems to be a very interresting book!

Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown


If you do pattern drafting, there is a German book on drafting historical 
costumes and the Cranach gown is in it, it includes the drafting of the 
top, sleeves (just the basic ones, all the puffs are on you), and three 
possibilities of how to make the skirt. I use this book a lot and though I 
haven't made directly this costume, the drafting methods are good and 
usually lead to a good solution:-)


It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting 
magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting 
instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th 
century.




Beteena Paradise <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I already have the 
Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so 
much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create the 
pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get 
Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?


 Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by 
sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or 
regular). That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight 
between the damask and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton 
velvet which might work better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking 
of doing a plainer version in wool first to get the kinks worked out and 
then do one in the grander fabrics.


Amy Cooper
wrote:

Have you given any thought to patterns yet?

-Amy
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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-07 Thread Amy Cooper

I haven't tried their patterns before.  I was in a rush and ended up using a 
modified version of the bodice from Simplicity 7756 and the sleeves from8735.  
They work well enough, but the back neckline of the bodice is quite high and 
the sleeves require some adjustign and fitting as well.  I've heard good thing 
about Kass' pattern.

I think you should be fine on the skirt construction.  As was mentioned before, 
the velvet will probably try to slip around, so lining it is a good idea.  
Personally, while I love the rich fabrics, I think the wool versions come out 
just as nice.  Most of the ones I've seen online are done up in wool too.

Beteena Paradise  wrote:

I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is 
that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create 
the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-) Otherwise I may get Kass' 
german ladies pattern. What did you use?

Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewing 
together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). That is 
why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask and the 
silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work better 
and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version in wool 
first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander fabrics.


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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-07 Thread Beteena Paradise
I'll definitely have to look for that. Thanks for the info!

Zuzana Kraemerova <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  It's a publication from 
Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting magazines. I believe it costs 
about 60 euros and it includes drafting instructions on women's garments from 
the rennaissance to the 19th century.

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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-07 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
If you do pattern drafting, there is a German book on drafting historical 
costumes and the Cranach gown is in it, it includes the drafting of the top, 
sleeves (just the basic ones, all the puffs are on you), and three 
possibilities of how to make the skirt. I use this book a lot and though I 
haven't made directly this costume, the drafting methods are good and usually 
lead to a good solution:-)

It's a publication from Rundschau, a company that makes (modern) drafting 
magazines. I believe it costs about 60 euros and it includes drafting 
instructions on women's garments from the rennaissance to the 19th century.



Beteena Paradise <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I already have the Period Patterns 
one, but my previous experience with them is that it is so much work to refit 
the pattern that I could just as well create the pattern from scratch. Which I 
might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get Kass' german ladies pattern. What did 
you use?
   
  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewing 
together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). That is 
why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask and the 
silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work better 
and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version in wool 
first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander fabrics.

Amy Cooper 
 wrote:
  
Have you given any thought to patterns yet?

-Amy
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Re: [h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-06 Thread Alexandria Doyle
I made something similar for a friend in broad cloth with limited
fabric available.  I cut my bands as needed, and I had an under layer
skirt of cotton sheeting, that I sewed the bands to.  With the layers
the skirt has the weight that it needs to drape properly and even
though it's in cotton, and meant as a test, it's still one of her
favorites.


On 10/6/07, Beteena Paradise <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them 
> is that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well 
> create the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may 
> get Kass' german ladies pattern. What did you use?
>
>   Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by 
> sewing together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). 
> That is why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask 
> and the silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work 
> better and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version 
> in wool first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander 
> fabrics.
>
> Amy Cooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Have you given any thought to patterns yet?
>
> -Amy
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[h-cost] Cranach gown

2007-10-06 Thread Beteena Paradise
I already have the Period Patterns one, but my previous experience with them is 
that it is so much work to refit the pattern that I could just as well create 
the pattern from scratch. Which I might just do. ;-)  Otherwise I may get Kass' 
german ladies pattern. What did you use?
   
  Also, I was thinking of doing the alternating colors of the skirts by sewing 
together the bands of fabric instead of applique (reverse or regular). That is 
why I was concerned about he difference in weight between the damask and the 
silk velvet. But I could get a heavier cotton velvet which might work better 
and not be as slippery. I am also thinking of doing a plainer version in wool 
first to get the kinks worked out and then do one in the grander fabrics.

Amy Cooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  
Have you given any thought to patterns yet?

-Amy
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