Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Hi there, I've started posting a few photos from my collection in an old blog I found unused today at http://www.reproductions.blogspot.com Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming Events: Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009 Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Aylwen, I would build a corselet into the gown's bodice. It's a period thing to do (if the wearer isnt too zoftig) and it gives the correct high-bust silhouette. Your performers get period appropriate modesty (er, more or less) and reasonable support. They also *must* wear the correct undergarment as it's built in. Ha! You can trick them into it! You can find a croquis for a bib-front gown c1803 in the patterns section of Blanche Payne's book. While I rather doubt your antique is the same style, this one will show you some methods to attach the corselet inside the gown. This isnt a solution for all age groups or body types, but as you've said they're performing dancers, I've assumed a certain level of mobility body carriage. Wont you please post a photo (or two) of your antique? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com - Original Message From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 1:40:28 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage them to wear period undergarments? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Brilliant!! We're really lucky that we have so many professionals on this list to guide us through some of this stuff. I knew there had to be a percentage to use, but I'm just not math-savvy enough to have figured it out. Thanks, AlbertCat! On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 5:27 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 12/17/2008 6:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sha...@collierfam.com writes: Don't know about official methods, but when I want to size something up or down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenlybut this is a good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily. The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce: Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2 places. It's easydon't be put off by the math. Let's say the waist is 20 and the new size waist should be 28. You get out your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28. Then hit divideand put in the old size: 20. What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you're blowing it up 140%. It works the other way too. The size of the bust in the pattern is 40. You need it to be 35. Put in the NEW size 1st: 35. Now divide by the old size: 40. And you get 0.875. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you need to reduce the image 87.5%. Just remember NEW size... divide... OLD sizemove decimal 2 spaces to the right. (Of course if you're going bigger it will always be over 100% and if you're going smaller it will always be less than 100%. If you're making something bigger and you get a number less that 100% when you move the decimal...you're wrong. Did you accidentally put the old size in 1st? NEW SIZE 1ST) **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-d picid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
As to your question: is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? I may be over generalizing, but I think every garment manufacturer and pattern company on the planet uses a different one. Period garments from before, say, 1960 (again, generalizing) weren't designed to fit with the same ease as modern garments, so modern measurement tables may not be appropriate anyway. Claudine - Original Message From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:42:54 PM Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases. My favorite grading book is Grading Techniques for Modern Design by Price and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very close. Happy sewing, Deb Salisbury The Mantua-Maker Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming, Spring 2009: Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions Uses www.mantua-maker.com http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Aylwen, What you actually want is called pattern grading if you Google that you might have more success (you'll probably find techniques for modern garments that you should hopefully be able to adapt for your pattern). Elizabeth -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Aylwen Garden Sent: Wednesday, 17 December 2008 4:43 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage them to wear period undergarments? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Ph/sms 0409 817 623 On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 7:07 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker d...@mantua-maker.com wrote: There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases. My favorite grading book is Grading Techniques for Modern Design by Price and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very close. Happy sewing, Deb Salisbury The Mantua-Maker Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming, Spring 2009: Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions Uses www.mantua-maker.com http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Don't know about official methods, but when I want to size something up or down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. Kind of hit or miss, but sizes up proportionally. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Aylwen Garden Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:43 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
In a message dated 12/17/2008 4:47:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com writes: Regency is tricky, to my eye if the best attempt at the historic look isn't made, the dress just looks like a modern, empire waist gown. Agreed. There's the way the breasts are raised, and supported from underneath that a modern bra just doesn't do. And the general posture is changed with a corset. Even a loose corded corset that is snug but not binding will change the body so it is round at the waist. Naturally, looking down from the top, one is oval, with the long way from side to side, at the waist. Even the gentle snugness of a light corset makes this shape round and thus looking narrower at the waist if viewed from the front (or the back). Of course now it is wider at the waist if viewed from the side, but fortunately, one usually has arms there to obscure this fact. I've seen costume Regency gowns that had lightly boned linings cut along the lines of the corset with gussets at the bust...that give a good shape. The actual gowns were cut completely differently sorta mounted on a corset like foundation. Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
In a message dated 12/17/2008 6:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sha...@collierfam.com writes: Don't know about official methods, but when I want to size something up or down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenlybut this is a good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily. The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce: Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2 places. It's easydon't be put off by the math. Let's say the waist is 20 and the new size waist should be 28. You get out your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28. Then hit divideand put in the old size: 20. What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you're blowing it up 140%. It works the other way too. The size of the bust in the pattern is 40. You need it to be 35. Put in the NEW size 1st: 35. Now divide by the old size: 40. And you get 0.875. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you need to reduce the image 87.5%. Just remember NEW size... divide... OLD sizemove decimal 2 spaces to the right. (Of course if you're going bigger it will always be over 100% and if you're going smaller it will always be less than 100%. If you're making something bigger and you get a number less that 100% when you move the decimal...you're wrong. Did you accidentally put the old size in 1st? NEW SIZE 1ST) **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-d picid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
cool beans! Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenlybut this is a good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily. The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce: Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2 places. It's easydon't be put off by the math. Let's say the waist is 20 and the new size waist should be 28. You get out your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28. Then hit divideand put in the old size: 20. What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you're blowing it up 140%. It works the other way too. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
