[h-cost] Late 18 century questions
I am gearing up for a production of Amadeus next year and have several questions. For those who might not know the show, it takes place in Vienna 1780-1791, with very brief bits of 1823. Starting with the men's shirts: How different from 1860's? I assume the body area is basically the same (right?), but the collar/neck band changes? Cuffs? Always white? Ruffles and laces on the stock? Wigs: Powdered white for scenes at the Emperor Joseph's court, but natural hair -- long and pulled into ponytail for men; done up high but not necessarily powdered for women -- for non-court scenes, right? Men: Waistcoats/vests are about hip length by now, not down to thigh? Right? And the coats are curving to the back? Were any men wearing a coat that has a 90(or near 90)degree angle at the front lower edge? Emperor Joseph was German, Salieri was Italian, Mozart was influenced by German, French and Italian. What were the differnces in fashion in these three countries? Women: Same kind of question - would French influence have dominated? Would the women still be wearing panniers at this time? The director really wants to incorporate some wild touches to Mozart (he was sort of the 18th century equivilant to a punk rocker) so any references to outlandish fashion styles would be good. The director wants to have a pink or blue streak in his powdered wig, for example. Good online images/sources would be fast and easy, but ILL can get me some books as well. Any and all recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks! Kate Pinner ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Late 18 century questions
Mozart (he was sort of the 18th century equivilant to a punk rocker) This is why I hate the film Amadeus. Not only do the costume look like a high school student designed them and are just plain tacky, but Mozart was in no way like a Punk rocker. I saw the play on Broadway with Tim Curry and Jane Seymour. There were no outlandish costumes or wigs (Mozart just had bad taste in clothes). In fact, all the Mozart scenes were in pale, muted colors... because, the thing takes place in Salieri's demented mind. There is a huge question as to whether any of it happened at all (not so in the dreadful film). The final scene in the 1820's was bright and crisp. As for shirts, the main difference are in the collars (a plain rectangle about 3 high, 3 buttons, for the 18th century - a slightly shaped collar, 1 button at the neck with a scooped out bit CF under the chin which creates points just in front of the ears for the later shirt) The cuffs (18th C- an inch or so rectangle - 19th C -2 to 3 long with the button at the top so the cuff covers the hand a little.) Also sleeves tend to be fuller in the 18th C. Lace and ruffles are added to both at the neck slit and the cuffs in both periods though you see pleating and less lace the later it gets. Panniers are out by 1780's... but maybe not at court. The pulled up a la Polonaise is in fashion. That's all the research I'm doing for you. Have fun! (Get the director to nix the punk bit!... If not, don't worry about accuracy) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
