Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

[michaela de bruce]

http://artflsrv02.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/philologic/getobject.pl?c.25:24.encyclopedie0513
Just found this in a hunt for other images. It certainly contains more
information than I have seen from published snippets.
Diderot, I think the entire encyclopedia in fact, but the tailor stuff is
all here, including cloth layouts.

On 9 February 2016 at 12:11, michaela de bruce 
wrote:

> There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are
> now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the
> Danish National Museum (some of which are online as pdfs- and there are a
> range of garments tidenstoj*- but I understand the books are really huge-
> or maybe I'm thinking of a Swedish series of books? I know there are many
> European books not in English anyway) and Blanche Payne. The Tailor's
> manuals all focus on men's gear and women usually are listed after the
> clergy and horses. Even two of Arnold's books has men's garments (and there
> are more male garments than female in the 3rd book.
>
> Anyway, women's extant garments tend to be a lot bigger, so when you are
> talking a rigid torso and pleated and draped skirts that's incredibly
> difficult to carefully explore without damage. And so much damage happened
> to women's dress especially in the 19thC that they often need more
> restoration. That is if they survive. During periods of heavy fabrics and
> patterns skirts became very handy to recyle in to church vestments or to
> redress effigy/figures. The garments LACMA started with are ideal as they
> can be carefully laid quite flat- and they can also confirm the shapes seen
> in the tailor manuals at the time.
>
> so for those who want more patterns:
>
>
> https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Minister+and+co%2C++ltd%22
> 3X copies of "Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion" 1860s
>
>
> https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22edward+minister+and+son%22
> 4x copies of Gazette of fashion. 1870s-1881
>
> All seven books focus on mens' garments.
>
>
> http://costumes.org/wiki/index.php/History100pages1893to1898cuttersguide
> or http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Cutters_Practical_Guide
>
> Part 1, 1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Every Kind
> of Garment Made, in a series of parts, Part One. Young Men's, Youths' and
> Juvenile Garments, Embracing also Treatise on Trousers, Vests, Military
> Garments, Liveries, etc., etc., etc.
> Part 2, 1893 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting every type
> of Garment made by Tailors, With detailed instructions as to their
> production, Part II, Body Coats of every description, embracing Morning,
> Frock and Dress Coats, Livery, Clerical, Naval, Military, Police and other
> Special Garments
> The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making all Kinds of
> Trousers, Breeches, & Knickers, to which is added chapters dealing with the
> cutting & making of Highland kilts, leggings, gaiters, etc. in Gallery
> View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library]
> Part 4. date unknown, Livery Garments in all their varieties, including
> coats, vests, trousers, breeches and gaiters as worn by livery servants
> [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library]
> Part 9,1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and
> Making, Embracing Lounges, Reefers & Patrol Jackets, in all their
> Varieties, Also Including the Cutting and Making of Robes and Gowns, Being
> Part IX of The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting and Making of all
> Kinds of Garments
> Part 10: (edition date unknown)
> The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of Waistcoats
> for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, Livery Servants, etc.,
> etc. in Gallery View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library]
> Part 11 . date unknown, Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, and
> Specialty Clothing for Various Occupations [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the
> Lakewood Library]
> Part 12 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making
> all kinds of Clerical Dress [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library,
> includes also British Legal and Academic robes]
> Part 13 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making
> all kinds of British Military Uniforms [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the
> Lakewood Library, includes also British Legal and Academic robes]
>
> https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=UulhcAAJ
> L'Art du tailleur. The Tailor's Guide; a complete system of cutting every
> kind of garment to measure, etc. 2 vol
> Charles Compaing, Louis Devere
> Simpkin, Marshall, 1855 - 128 pages
>
> https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=TSNhcAAJ
> The Art of Cutting Breeches ... Fourth Edition
> Front Cover
> George WALKER (Tailor.)
>
> There is a huge resource out there, it's just that those of us going out
> and looking are probably looking for our areas of focus. So I've had most
> of these links for ages but I don't use 

Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

I believe those same patterns have been up for a good couple of years. But yes, 
quite nice to have more men's patterns!

Michael Deibert, NRP
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 1, 2016, at 20:25, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:
> 
> Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns 
> are being sold.
> 
> ==Marjorie 
> 
>> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb  wrote 
>> (in part):
>> 
>> So far they're showing 4:
>> 
>> Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50,  Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60
>> 
>> Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740
>> 
>> Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750
>> 
>> Man's Coat, France, 1790–95
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and
>> whether more patterns are going to become available?
> 
> 
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

[Marjorie Wilser]

Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns are 
being sold.

==Marjorie 

> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb  wrote (in 
> part):
> 
> So far they're showing 4:
> 
> Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50,  Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60
> 
> Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740
> 
> Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750
> 
> Man's Coat, France, 1790–95
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and
> whether more patterns are going to become available?


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[h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

[Christine Robb]

Description from their website:

Thomas John Bernard (pictured with assistant curator Clarissa
Esguerra), a theatrical costume designer, worked with the curators and
conservators of the Costume and Textiles Department at LACMA to draw
these patterns approximating the design of garments in our collection.

http://www.lacma.org/patterns

So far they're showing 4:

Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50,  Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60

Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740

Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750

Man's Coat, France, 1790–95




Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and
whether more patterns are going to become available?

Christine
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