Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes
Bjarne, I don't know much about the period, but is there a difference between how close the garments are to the body? I'm thinking of a man's waistcoat and coat compared to a woman's dress, I would imagine a man's shirt is a more substantial garment than a woman's shift, and therefore offers more protection to the outer layers. Alternatively, does the silk help the waistcoat and coat move over the heavier linen of the shirt and the outer layer of the waistcoat, while women are not wearing layers that move against each other to the same extent? Jean Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote Hi. When i went to Frankfurt recently, we disgussed this strange thing that all of us has noticed. All gentlements garments in 18th century is lined with silk, but all ladies garments lined with linnen? Is there any natural explantation of this? Also Mauritia told me, when working on the wedding suit of Christian VII, that his suit was lined with linnen, very unusuall. I told her, that perhaps it was because of the insanity of the king ( he was suffering of skitsofrenia), and that perhaps he used to sweat exceptionally much because of this? I have no idea of that, but back to the difference of the sexes, why do you think they did this? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Jean Waddie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes
In a message dated 3/5/2006 11:25:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: All gentlements garments in 18th century is lined with silk, but all ladies garments lined with linnen? Is there any natural explantation of this? I don't think that is necessarily true. I'm sure there are men's coats and waistcoats lined with linen. However, my two cents' worth--a man's shirt covered him more completely than a woman's shift, I think, so he had a fuller under layer of linen next to his skin. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes
Jean Waddie wrote: Alternatively, does the silk help the waistcoat and coat move over the heavier linen of the shirt and the outer layer of the waistcoat, while women are not wearing layers that move against each other to the same extent? You may have something there... it also occurs to me that men wore their clothing open, and the lining showed. Women's gowns and jackets are worn closed, so maybe the lining doesn't need to be as fancy. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes
But the woman would have both a shift and the stays to protect, most of the bodice has the stays behind. Only the shoulder pieces perhaps is not protected. Could it simply be, that men was feeling a bigger rank, than a woman, and therefore was using silk in stead of linen. I know there are mens garments lined with linnen, but most aristocracy fashion is lined with silk. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 9:52 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes In a message dated 3/5/2006 11:25:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: All gentlements garments in 18th century is lined with silk, but all ladies garments lined with linnen? Is there any natural explantation of this? I don't think that is necessarily true. I'm sure there are men's coats and waistcoats lined with linen. However, my two cents' worth--a man's shirt covered him more completely than a woman's shift, I think, so he had a fuller under layer of linen next to his skin. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference of the sexes
Maybe it has to do with linen breathing better? Those of us going thru menopause would understand and appreciate a cooler outfit. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Diana Habra Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 11:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes Hi. When i went to Frankfurt recently, we disgussed this strange thing that all of us has noticed. All gentlements garments in 18th century is lined with silk, but all ladies garments lined with linnen? Is there any natural explantation of this? Bjarne, Maybe smells come out of silk easier? In my experience, men and women sweat the same but male sweat is...um...stronger smelling. So maybe linen holds smells longer than silk? Or it was easier to clean? Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] difference of the sexes
At 06:14 06/03/2006, you wrote: Maybe it has to do with linen breathing better? Those of us going thru menopause would understand and appreciate a cooler outfit. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Diana Habra Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 11:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes Early in the 18th century there are so many layers of horsehair, crin, and linen stiffening the silk lining was probably for comfort, but would not much be seen, except maybe inside the front opening at the chest. Later, in the middle of the century the lining can be seen on the back skirts, from in front, without the man ever taking off or opening his coat. It's just the way it is made. Many late 18th century coats are actually worn fastened only with a couple of hooks on the chest, allowing the fronts to fall open and reveal the lining. Facing the fronts with fashion fabric is not usually an option until very late in the century, when coats with tails become popular. Early the following century the tails are almost always fully lined in fashion fabric, and the fronts are faced back as far as the underarm with fashion fabric. The insides are tend to be left unlined except for some linen reinforcement across the shoulders. As someone else said, the inside of a woman's bodice would not be seen, so there would be no need to waste a comparatively expensive fabric on something unseen. Just my 2 penn'orth. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
