Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions .........How I'd try to fix it.....

2008-08-22 Thread Ruth Anne Baumgartner
It looks to me as though the pattern illustration shows the neckline  
sitting higher on the shoulder, so the shoulder seam actually falls  
atop the shoulder (and the neckline is somewhat squarer in  
appearance). If you put the shoulder seam just on your shoulder,  
would that give you any better range of motion? If not, perhaps the  
sleeve cap has to be lengthened?

(Wild speculation.)
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer


On Aug 22, 2008, at 2:52 PM, Melody Watts wrote:

I'd revert to old knowledge,  adjust the shoulder fit to correct  
lay, then split open the under arm of the sleeve and add a gusset.
  Its amazing they never actually try out these patterns in real  
life before running them off.
  Simplicity had the same problem with one of their most popular  
Lord Of the Rings patten.

  Guess Elf girls never had to raise an arm either.
  Hope that helps
  Melody

Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some  
fitting

issues with it.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg

Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:

http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg

I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was
killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model  
in the

first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had
trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't
lift my arms enough. How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on  
the
pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty  
wearing
this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even  
push my

hair out of my face without difficulty.


Dawn



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Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions .........How I'd try to fix it.....

2008-08-22 Thread Chris Laning
Dawn wrote:
I am going to go with the gusset idea, as it will allow me to salvage 
this piece  (even if I could find more of the silk fabric, it was $35 a 
yard) as I hate the idea of wasting what's gone into it so far.  When I 
make this again, and I'm sure I will, I will be making more substantial 
changes to the pattern itself.

For when you're working on the muslin for the next one: One common cause of not 
being able to raise your arms high enough is when the armhole is (somewhat 
paradoxically) cut too BIG. A bigger armhole with a lower bottom curve actually 
translates into LESS freedom of motion, not more, as you would think. This is 
because as you move your arm upward, the low meeting point of sleeve and body 
under the arm means the sleeve quickly begins to transfer the pull upward 
onto the body fabric -- which can't really move upward very far if it's at all 
closely fitted or confined at the waist. A higher meeting point means you can 
raise your arm further before it starts to pull. I know I've made this mistake 
;)

Try raising the bottom line of the armhole to make a smaller hole and see if 
that makes a difference.

(Of course, there are practical limits here, you don't want the armhole so 
small it binds or feels tight. But pattern companies, who have to make a 
pattern that attempts to fit all body shapes, often do rather large armholes to 
accommodate people who have heavy upper arms, and that simply doesn't fit 
everyone else correctly.)


0  Chris Laning
|  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com

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