[h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-18 Thread beweave1
I get digest so please excuse that I haven't got a quote to enter the 
conversation with.

There are several references in Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince to linen 
outer garments; some cloaks, a fighting jack, and something else (at work not 
at at home).  I think mostly from, wait for it, Italy.  14th century.  So, why 
not late 15th century?

Cynthia, the lurker
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[h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-18 Thread Julie
Thanks Rogin, Melanie, Cynthia  Gail for your help.  I have Cennini.  I'll use 
that quote.  I don't have FITAOTBP though - it's on my list at Amazon.  Can 
someone pretty please come up with a quote?

Thanks
Julie
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 There are several references in Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince to 
 linen outer garments; some cloaks, a fighting jack, and something else (at 
 work not at at home).  I think mostly from, wait for it, Italy.  14th 
 century.  So, why not late 15th century?
 
 Cynthia, the lurker

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[h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-17 Thread Julie
I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren, about 1490.  
I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me 
about using linen.  I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and 
wasn't used for outer garments.  Can any of you help me disprove that?

Julie

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Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-17 Thread Robin Netherton

On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, Julie wrote:

 I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren,
 about 1490.  I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the
 judges will hassle me about using linen.  I've been told that linen
 was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments.  Can
 any of you help me disprove that?

I get worried whenever I see that statement, because I think it is a
misapplication of something I originally wrote to this list years ago and
have repeated elsewhere. I've posted in the past (and still maintain) that
so far, I've seen no indication that linen was used for outer garments IN
MEDIEVAL WESTERN EUROPE. Now I sometimes hear people insisting that linen
wasn't period for the SCA -- which is far too broad a statement! For
example, linen for outer garments shows up with some frequency in
documents from Elizabethan England and the early American colonies.

In your case, 1490 Italy is neither medieval nor Western European. I
know Maureen Mazzaoui has shown use of cotton at this time (though I'm not
sure for what sort of garments). For linen, I'd start by looking at Carole
Collier Frick's Dressing Renaissance Florence -- perhaps someone on this
list has a copy they can check for linen references to see if there's
anything worth pursuing? Also Renaissance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500, by
Jacqueline Herald.

And anyone else interested in this -- when you hear someone say Linen
wasn't period for outer garments in the SCA, will you please find out
where they got that idea? If they say it's from me, tell them they didn't
get the whole story. I do like getting credit for my work, but I hate to
see it oversimplified to the point of error.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-17 Thread Melanie Schuessler
There is the reference in Cennini's _Craftsman's Handbook_ (from Italy, 
late 14th or early 15th century):


A section dealing with miscellaneous incidental operations:  First, 
block printing on cloth


Inasmuch as the execution of certain products painted on linen cloth, 
which are good for garments for little boys or children, and for certain 
church lecterns, still has to do with the profession of the brush, the 
way to do them is this. (p. 115-16 in my Dover edition)


In response to Robin's suggestion, the only mention of linen in the 
index of Dressing Renaissance Florence is linen merchants.  It's 
possible that there's something buried in the text that's not reflected 
in the index, though.  There's no linen mentioned in Herald's index at 
all, but it doesn't seem very comprehensive.


Melanie Schuessler


Julie wrote:
 I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren,
 about 1490.  I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the
 judges will hassle me about using linen.  I've been told that linen
 was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments.  Can
 any of you help me disprove that?

 Julie

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Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-17 Thread MaggiRos
Hi Robin, 

Broadly, Western Europe does include Italy, simply
looking left to right in the sense of Western
Civilization. It's not Eastern Europe, surely. 

Maggie

--- Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've posted in the past
 (and still maintain) that
 so far, I've seen no indication that linen was used
 for outer garments IN
 MEDIEVAL WESTERN EUROPE. 
snip

 In your case, 1490 Italy is neither medieval nor
 Western European. 
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Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen

2006-10-17 Thread Robin Netherton

On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, MaggiRos wrote:

 Broadly, Western Europe does include Italy, simply looking left to
 right in the sense of Western Civilization. It's not Eastern Europe,
 surely.

Europe is indeed in the West, or the Western World, or part of Western
Civilization, as distinct from the East (formerly called the Orient). But
Europe has internal regional divisions.

As medieval historians typically* use the term, Italy is not in Western
Europe. It is considered to be in Southern Europe. Scandinavia is not
Western Europe either; it's Northern Europe.

As modern historians use the term, Western Europe reflects political or
economic divisions and usually refers to the NATO countries of Europe or
the European countries that were not allied with the Eastern bloc. So
there's a difference -- one that I have to remember when I'm talking to
historians of other stripes!

--Robin

*Yes, I'm sure there are exceptions.

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