Re: [HG] images of new pegs
Hi Arle, Alden and Matt, Thanks a lot for explanations, illustrations and questions. I'll figure out howmany left and righthanded pegs I need, and contact Brian. Greetings from Holland, Cor - Original Message - From: Arle Lommel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: hg@hurdygurdy.com Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 2:19 AM Subject: Re: [HG] images of new pegs Hi Matt, The mounting threads do in fact differ for each kind of peg and I think that's the important difference. The cores differ as well, however: the teeth on the core do not run vertically on the shaft, but instead at a slight angle and the left- and right-handed seem to be mirror images (which makes sense). I think that by using the proper one, there is a tendency for the natural pull of the peg when under tension to keep the head pulled down as a result rather than tending to force it up a little. But I think it is so slight a difference that it wouldn't matter under normal string tension. So I believe that the operative difference is the threading and since I've glued them in, as you note, it doesn't really seem to matter much. I certainly haven't (yet) noticed any problems from having put them in backwards, and as Alden noted, their supplier tells them to do them backwards. Best, -Arle On Feb 10, 2008, at 6:25 PM, Matthew Szostak wrote: Perhaps this is a question for Brian, but maybe some other list members would be interested, so I'll start here. Why are these pegs left- and right- handed? From what I understand about the way these planetary gearing systems work, I would think that, like banjo tuners, they would work the same regardless of which side of the peg the string wound on. Is there something about the construction which makes these only work in one rotational direction? Perhaps it's the *mounting* threads which are different? The tensioning motion of the left-handed peg (our tourne-a-gauche) would naturally have a tendency to unscrew the threaded housing unless the threads were reversed. But if they're glued in... ~ Matt -- Mijn Postvak In wordt beschermd door SPAMfighter. 481 spam-mails zijn er tot op heden geblokkeerd. Download de gratis SPAMfighter via deze link: http://www.spamfighter.com/lnl
Re: [HG] Hurdy Gurdy handbook
Hi David, the book's translator, Arle Lommel, is a list member (and my neighbor in town , incidentally). You may be able to ask him directly, unless he has already written you by now... best, Vlad Wolodymyr Smishkewych wolodymyrsmishkewych.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Feb 12 2008, at 15:40, David Smith wrote: Hello, Would anyone know if the Hurdy Gurdy Handbook by Nagy Balazs is available for purchase anywhere in the USA? Also, if you have the book, do you have any thoughts on how good a book it is? Thanks, David Smith Michigan, USA Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[HG] Hurdy Gurdy handbook
Hello, Would anyone know if the Hurdy Gurdy Handbook by Nagy Balazs is available for purchase anywhere in the USA? Also, if you have the book, do you have any thoughts on how good a book it is? Thanks, David Smith Michigan, USA - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
RE: [HG] Bearings
I'll throw in my 2 cents: 3-in-1 oil turns gummy after a while, leaving deposits that require disassembly and cleaning. We recommend a light bearing oil or a sewing machine oil that has less additives. One possibility is this Trinity oil available from Tower Hobbies or wherever else you can find it: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXKC43P=M Your mileage may vary. Alden I have not followed this about oil and I suppose you are oiling metal bearings. 3 in 1 or any light oil should do. But if you are oiling a wooden bearing you should never us oil made from petrochemicals because it breaks down the cell walls. For this you should use 50/50 castor oil and pure natural turps. If it gets a bit sticky wash out with turps. Michael
Re: [HG] The Hurdy Gurdy Kit Lady Fanatic Responds
Hello Kathy, In answer to your question where do you anchor the keybox I use a long wheel shaft, it runs up to a structure where the keybox ends. This cross structure is 5 mm short of touching the sound board, runs from side to side in the body, is glued to both sides and back of the body. There are two 10 mm holes in the sound board above this structure, the end block of the keybox has two feet that run through these holes, two small screws and glue hold them in place. the keybox floats so to speak approx. 4 to 5 mm above the sound board, allowing the sound board to vibrate freely. I also add on the underside of the sound board, on each side a question mark shaped piece of bent wood (plywood will not carry the sound) that runs from where the bridge rests, around the wheel slot, then up both sides of the keybox, firmly glued in place, this carries the sound from the bridge through the entire sound board as well as stiffening the sound board somewhat. There is a Dutch luthie r that also builds this way, his gurdys are very nice and not to expensive. -- Original message -- From: Kathy Hutchins [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Its the grumpy old man again, I have a very good machinist who uses drill rod in the requested size, and turns the shaft between centers, for, the amazing sum of five dollars! I request a least a 90 percent thread and get it every time. If you require his services send me a drawing and I get back to you asap. OK, thanks. John has already glued the soundboard down, so it may be too late to make some of these changes. But if a truer rod would improve things without extending the shaft to the head side of the wheel hole, I could certainly see investing five bucks. I am going to pass all this info on to John in any case. As for roller bearing, don't, they make all kinds of noise, just look for the Teflon bearing sleeves at a Lowes or Home Depot they work fine. The kit actually came with nylon bushings -- I think this is a change from the set-up Alden/Cali described, which sounded like the shaft just ran through wood. It would be a simple enough matter to change these out if the Teflon is better. Someone else recommended delrin. I have issues with both the wheel assembly and key-box resting on or connecting to the sound board, and build so that neither touch the sound board. Where do you anchor the keybox then? Kathy Hutchins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
