[hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Brandan
Hi there,

I have never tried one of what you are describing so I have no insights 
into the stitching. For the actually taking the photos can you shoot the 
photos on a cloudy day, or maybe yearly or late in the day when you have 
indirect lighting? I am hopeful that if you could get the right light it 
would cut down on the reflection that Marius Loots has in his photos. Which 
would have to help with the control point finding.

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Terry Duell

Hello Brandan,

On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 19:08:37 +1100, Brandan bran...@flyingtsalers.com  
wrote:



I am hopeful that if you could get the right light it
would cut down on the reflection that Marius Loots has in his photos.  
Which would have to help with the control point finding.


I have taken a number of shots of the walk, and auto control point finding  
can be a bit problematic, but it isn't too hard to manually add them. I  
don't think reflection is major issue.
I think the main issue is that it is probably impossible to stitch a pano  
that gives a clear view of all panels.


Thanks for your comments.

Cheers,
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Terry Duell

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Re: [hugin-ptx] How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Terry Duell

Hello Marius,


On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 17:57:03 +1100, Marius Loots mlo...@medic.up.ac.za  
wrote:



My biggest problem was control points. The granite is highly
reflective, which meant that I showed up in each photograph and
control points were added automatically linking up myself in all the
images. The same with all the images engraved in the granite. I have
now retrieved the photos and will gave it another attemp today. Let
you know how it went.



I don't have the same problems with reflections. The really big issue, I  
think, is the size and shape.

The size precludes a normal pano, and the shape precludes a linear pano.

This might be a silly idea, but is there any post processing you can do on  
the images to counter the reflections that will leave detail that CPFind  
can use to get control points? If so, then save your .pto and substitute  
your original filenames and restitch.

Please let us know how you get on with your new attempt.

Cheers,
--
Regards,
Terry Duell

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread paul womack

Terry Duell wrote:

Hello Brandan,

On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 19:08:37 +1100, Brandan bran...@flyingtsalers.com wrote:


I am hopeful that if you could get the right light it
would cut down on the reflection that Marius Loots has in his photos. Which 
would have to help with the control point finding.


I have taken a number of shots of the walk, and auto control point finding can 
be a bit problematic, but it isn't too hard to manually add them.


I don't think I've ever used auto control point creation. When I've tried it
I always spend more time editing points, and deleting bad ones,
than it takes me to create nigh perfect ones from scratch.

 BugBear

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Re: [hugin-ptx] How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread paul womack

Terry Duell wrote:

Hello All,
The attachment shows the Vietnam Veterans Commemorative Walk, in Seymour, 
Victoria.
It is approx. 80-ish metres long, with about 52 glass panels on each side, each 
panel approx 2m high, 1.5m wide.

.
.

Does anyone have any comments on whether a pano might be possible, and any 
ideas on how to tackle it?


It's clearly possible - if nothing else it would be possible, if tedious,
to simply take 52 shots, each centred on a single panel,
pick a single panel as a reference, and correct this panel
to be perfectly proportioned and rectilinear.

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/perspective/en.shtml

Then create 52 2-frame panos, each with the reference
panel as one picture, and a fresh picture as the other,
and correct the shot to the reference panel.

Stitch each panorama with the reference panel invisible, and the
panel precisely cropped.

The resulting images will tessalate perfectly.

 BugBear

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[hugin-ptx] Re: FOV and orientation

2014-03-04 Thread Torsten Bronger
Hallöchen!

Torsten Bronger writes:

 Bruno Postle writes:

 On 3 March 2014 10:25, Torsten Bronger torsten.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 How is the FOV lens parameter in Hugin defined?  Always the
 horizontal axis, always the longer axis, always the shorter
 axis?

 Always horizontal, this is inherited from the panotools lens
 model.

 Then, I'd like to define the FOV on the *shorter* axis for the
 Lensfun project.

I did it now this way, but for the *longer* axis.  This should be
compatible with Hugin in almost all cases.

 [...]

 However, Hugin must then re-calculate the FOV value returned by
 the Lensfun database for the particular projection and image
 orientation.

This is still necessary, for portrait orientation.

Tschö,
Torsten.

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[hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread kfj


On Tuesday, March 4, 2014 6:51:13 AM UTC+5:30, Tduell wrote:

 Hello All, 
 The attachment shows the Vietnam Veterans Commemorative Walk, in Seymour, 
   
 Victoria. 
 It is approx. 80-ish metres long, with about 52 glass panels on each side, 
   
 each panel approx 2m high, 1.5m wide. 
 The panels are etched with images from the war, and the names of all the   
 Australian veterans. 
 Shooting and stitching a pano of each side looks like a tricky project. 
 The right side of the attached image is roughly north, so shooting the   
 south side is always going to present a bit of a problem with the light,   
 i.e. the sun is always to the north. 
 On the north side the panels have much better light, but there is   
 vegetation about 4 to 5m from the panels. 
 Standing on the edge of the vegetation, a 24mm lens (36mm equiv) shooting 
   
 approx normal to the panels gives about 2.5 panel wide coverage. 
 Does anyone have any comments on whether a pano might be possible, and any 
   
 ideas on how to tackle it? 


If you can live without the curve of the wall, I would do this:

- In a drawing program like gimp, create a line drawing of a stripe with 
sections having the same aspect ratio as the individual images on the wall 
- imagine a ladder put down horizontal with rungs upright

- Mask the individual normal shots so that there is some of the left and 
right neighbouring image visible; enough to let the blending software 
create an invisible blend.

- 'pin' the four corners of each image to the corresponding points on your 
skeleton drawing (the ladder)

- use the ladder drawing as reference and optimize the other images for r, 
p, y, x, y and z. If the otimization fails, you could try adding line 
control points along the ladder's lines; in my experience with stitching 
mosaics from handheld shots this has always helped getting the optimization 
to work and achieving a good result.

- leave the placement of the seams to enblend; the curvature might be 
slight enough not to create too much parallactic error

This process might be less work than processing each individual image to be 
perfectly normal and of the right size and then mosaicing them together. 
And making a trial with just a few images won't cost you too much time.

Kay


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Re: [hugin-ptx] Batch files for making cubes

2014-03-04 Thread Brandan
With a bit of luck I will have a chance to have my hands on the mac in 
question for an hour or so later today. If I do not get it solved today, 
then I will give TeamViewer a try. Something like that would make this sort 
of thing a lot easier.

I am not able to find it right now, but I thought I came across a thread 
talking about if a person uses CPAN to install panotools on a mac and a few 
other things had already been installed(I forget what they were) that there 
would be problems and to instead only install a subset of panotools. Does 
that sound familiar at all?

For what it is worth, building a droplet to make cubes and include it with 
hugin would likely be something that a lot of people would use.I have tried 
2 other programs that make cubes and the fastest one that I found would 
take about 30 times as long for a big pano, and the slowest one I gave up 
on after an hour. In one case a lot of the users are already using hugin to 
make the panos, saving them the step of another program to make the cube 
would be something the whole group would benefit from.

Brandan

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Re: [hugin-ptx] How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Marius Loots
Hallo Terry,

Tuesday, March 4, 2014, 10:50:49 AM, you wrote:
 My biggest problem was control points. The granite is highly
 reflective, which meant that I showed up in each photograph and
 control points were added automatically linking up myself in all the
 images. The same with all the images engraved in the granite. I have
 now retrieved the photos and will gave it another attemp today. Let
 you know how it went.


Terry I don't have the same problems with reflections. The really big issue, I
Terry think, is the size and shape.
Terry The size precludes a normal pano, and the shape precludes a linear pano.

Terry This might be a silly idea, but is there any post processing you can do 
on
Terry the images to counter the reflections that will leave detail that CPFind
Terry can use to get control points? If so, then save your .pto and substitute
Terry your original filenames and restitch.
Terry Please let us know how you get on with your new attempt.

I have uploaded my next attempt at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/marius_loots/12927837453/

One correction, it wasn't my reflection giving so much problems, but
the reflections of trees that are repeated across the whole section.
But, the 2012 version of hugin CPfind deals a lot better with this
than whatever I used with the version current in 2006.

The result is still relatively uneven, even with horisontal and
vertical control points added and correcting for barrel distortion.
The barrel distortion being quite visible in the original images. I
think if one has a tripod and keep the distance from the wall constant
using a tape measure, the results would be a lot better. In the case
of the curved wall one would maybe also keep the angle towards the
panel the same.

I will give it another go, using the various suggestions that has been
made. In summary, I think it would be possible, given a little more
time on the photographs than I took (five minutes for 66 photos of a
50 meter stretch).

Will update on the revised attempts.

Groetnis
 Marius  
 mailto:mlo...@medic.up.ac.za
-- 
add some chaos to your life and put the world in order
http://www.mapungubwe.co.za/
http://www.chaos.co.za/
skype: marius_loots

Hierdie boodskap en aanhangsels is aan 'n vrywaringsklousule 
onderhewig. Volledige besonderhede is by 
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beskikbaar.

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Re: [hugin-ptx] How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread dgjohnston
My best suggestion would be to make sure that you are always at 90 degree to 
the tangent of the centre point of the section of the wall you're 
photographing. And have lots of overlap so you only use the vertical centr of 
each image. 

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Terry Duell tdu...@iinet.net.au
Sender: hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2014 16:18:10 
To: hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [hugin-ptx] How to best shoot and stitch this?

On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 13:25:35 +1100, Terry Duell tdu...@iinet.net.au  
wrote:

[snip]

 Because of the considerable curve of the walk I don't think it is  
 possible to shoot it as a linear pano...i.e. many different camera  
 positions. There is a continual change in Trz value, which is small from  
 one panel to the next and may allow a linear pano stitch of 2 images,  
 each with 2 panels, overlapping one panel for a 3 panel linear stitch,  
 but would I then be able to stitch all these linear panos together?
 One other approach I have pondered on, is to shoot a couple of panels to  
 my right and and a couple to my left and stitch as normal, and make  
 about 12 or 13 of these sub-panos, each with one panel overlap on the  
 ends with the next sub-pano. Then try to stitch these normal sub-panos  
 together using the one panel overlap and do these as linear panos, but  
 I'm not sure that the overlap will be enough.
 So, not really sure if any of the above has any hope of success.

The more I think about this, the more I am convincing myself that none of  
the above can produce a reasonable result.


Cheers,
-- 
Regards,
Terry Duell

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Re: [hugin-ptx] How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Terry Duell

Hello Paul,

On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 20:43:24 +1100, paul womack pwom...@papermule.co.uk  
wrote:





It's clearly possible - if nothing else it would be possible, if tedious,
to simply take 52 shots, each centred on a single panel,
pick a single panel as a reference, and correct this panel
to be perfectly proportioned and rectilinear.

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/perspective/en.shtml

Then create 52 2-frame panos, each with the reference
panel as one picture, and a fresh picture as the other,
and correct the shot to the reference panel.

Stitch each panorama with the reference panel invisible, and the
panel precisely cropped.

The resulting images will tessalate perfectly.



Thanks for your thoughts on this.
As you say, possible, but tedious.


Cheers,
--
Regards,
Terry Duell

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Terry Duell

Hello Kay,

On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 21:19:46 +1100, kfj _...@yahoo.com wrote:




If you can live without the curve of the wall, I would do this:

- In a drawing program like gimp, create a line drawing of a stripe with
sections having the same aspect ratio as the individual images on the  
wall - imagine a ladder put down horizontal with rungs upright


- Mask the individual normal shots so that there is some of the left and
right neighbouring image visible; enough to let the blending software
create an invisible blend.

- 'pin' the four corners of each image to the corresponding points on  
your skeleton drawing (the ladder)


- use the ladder drawing as reference and optimize the other images for  
r, p, y, x, y and z. If the otimization fails, you could try adding line

control points along the ladder's lines; in my experience with stitching
mosaics from handheld shots this has always helped getting the  
optimization to work and achieving a good result.


- leave the placement of the seams to enblend; the curvature might be
slight enough not to create too much parallactic error

This process might be less work than processing each individual image to  
be perfectly normal and of the right size and then mosaicing them  
together.

And making a trial with just a few images won't cost you too much time.



Thanks for that. I'll have a try and see how it goes.

Cheers,
--
Regards,
Terry Duell

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread Terry Duell

Hello Kay,

Sorry if I am a bit dense, but a couple of questions on detail, if I may.

On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 21:19:46 +1100, kfj _...@yahoo.com wrote:

[snip]



If you can live without the curve of the wall, I would do this:

- In a drawing program like gimp, create a line drawing of a stripe with
sections having the same aspect ratio as the individual images on the  
wall

- imagine a ladder put down horizontal with rungs upright

- Mask the individual normal shots so that there is some of the left and
right neighbouring image visible; enough to let the blending software
create an invisible blend.

- 'pin' the four corners of each image to the corresponding points on  
your skeleton drawing (the ladder)


Where is this to be done, in Gimp or Hugin?
Can you be a bit more explicit as to what you mean by 'pin' an image to  
another, it isn't a term I see used in Gimp or Hugin.




- use the ladder drawing as reference and optimize the other images for  
r, p, y, x, y and z.


What is the ladder drawing in this context...the bare drawing, or the  
drawing with all the images 'pinned'?
By 'reference' do you mean (in hugin terminology) the 'anchor' for  
position?



Cheers,
--
Regards,
Terry Duell

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: How to best shoot and stitch this?

2014-03-04 Thread kfj


On Wednesday, March 5, 2014 10:00:48 AM UTC+5:30, Tduell wrote:

 Hello Kay, 

 Sorry if I am a bit dense, but a couple of questions on detail, if I may. 

 On Tue, 04 Mar 2014 21:19:46 +1100, kfj _k...@yahoo.com javascript: 
 wrote: 

  - 'pin' the four corners of each image to the corresponding points on   
  your skeleton drawing (the ladder) 

 Where is this to be done, in Gimp or Hugin? 
 Can you be a bit more explicit as to what you mean by 'pin' an image to

another, it isn't a term I see used in Gimp or Hugin. 


Okay, sorry for the sloppy terminology. By 'pinning' I mean setting control 
points between a reference image with reference points and corresponding 
points in partial images which need placement. Imagine, for example, having 
a set of image tiles and a reference image showing a grid. Pinning would 
then mean that you set CPs from the four corners of each tile to the grid 
points where the image is to be placed. Another use of pinning was my 
method of fixing prominent features in landscape panoramas to an artificial 
panorama which is used as reference, resulting in what I labeled a 
'canonical' panorama with near-perfect horizon and orientation, see

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/hugin-ptx/l32L3Iffv6w

 - use the ladder drawing as reference and optimize the other images for   
  r, p, y, x, y and z. 

 What is the ladder drawing in this context...the bare drawing, or the   
 drawing with all the images 'pinned'? 


The ladder drawing, in this context, is the line drawing made in gimp which 
serves as the surface you 'pin' your individual images to.

By 'reference' do you mean (in hugin terminology) the 'anchor' for   
 position?


Yes, that's what I mean. You are right, anchor is the hugin term, or to be 
more precise, position anchor. And when you finally stitch the panorama, 
you simply deactivate this anchor image, resulting in a panorama from the 
individual photos, held by the invisible 'spine' of the hidden artificial 
anchor image.

The 'pinning' technique has quite a few interesting applications, but I 
think it isn't used much, since it doesn't occur to many people to mix in 
images which don't visibly contribute to the final product. Another example 
of pinning is using a reference showing an azimuthal grid, possibly with 
the sun's position marked which can be found by using the techniques 
discussed here:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/hugin-ptx/vWRO7SxdFxQ

If your set of photographs show both the nadir and the sun, you are just a 
few clicks away from a level horizon and a good orientation.

Kay

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