I also use DxO. And hugin of course. The nice thing about DxO is that
correction modules are available for most cameras and lens combinations. It
corrects for distortion, vignetting etc. Then hugin can do its magic without
having to also correct all that stuff.
Sent from my Samsung device
-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Brody <awbr...@gmail.com>
Date: 2015-11-06 9:27 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: hugin and other free panoramic software <hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [hugin-ptx] Shooting and stitching to make Giclee prints
I suggest a prime lens rather than any kind of zoom. They are much sharper.
Many lens are sharpest at f8. Check the literature for your lens.
Assuming a size of six feet for the largest dimension of the canvas, then at
300 ppi you will need your output to be 300 x 12 X 6 or 21,600 pixels along
that side. This comes out to 466,560,000 or about 450 megapixels. You do not
want to use the entire frame of each source image since the peripheral pixels
are always less sharp than the ones closer to the center. Even though I use the
free hugin for stitching, I use a commercial product, DXO, for preprocessing
my images.
One way to ensure that your images are all taken with the lens pointing
directly at the portion of the canvas you want is to mark that point with
masking tape or using two crossed segments of mason twine. Both artwork and
camera should be absolutely level, something you can accomplish ith a
carpenter's level. Attach a laser pointer alng one leg of a large 45 degree
right triangle. Place the other leg of triangle at the intersection point and
swing it back and forth to see if the laser points at the center of the lens.
If it does with the triangle oriented along the two perpendicular lines define
by the mason twin, then your camera is in exactly the right spot. The laser
pointer method is from watching James Barker, a professional photographer, take
professional medium format slides. You will have probably do better if you hire
him to do the photography for you.
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