KR> First day working with N86DK.....

2012-01-06 Thread Dave_A
For those following, I bought a KR2 while over in Afganhistan...

I'm on R&R now, and I flew down to FL to get started on making it 
flyable & set up the way I want...

Pics are posted at 
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/ (see 
sub-albums (left side of webpage) for engine & other details)

Things I knew before I came down here: The plane came with no avionics. 
I have radios & a BMA EFIS One (yes, I know, they're out of business, 
but when it comes to scrounging an EFIS (or primary instruments) that 
will fit in a KR's panel, and my budget... ) to fix that... Also, the 
taildragger thing... Working on that too...

The plane appears to have been painted with plain old rattlecan acrylic 
spraypaint (1986 variety)... Said paint is cracked & peeling off all 
over... So I'll be sanding it off & touching up with an epoxy-based 
paint

The right elevator (as viewed from behind the plane) looks good - 
although I have a question as to weather the red-brown substance (See 
photo with my hand in it, in the 'elevator' album) chipping off of it is 
delaminated structure, or just red-brown automotive primer. The 
left, OTOH, is a mess - a huge delamination bubble on the lower surface, 
plastic stuck to the resin & painted over, and the upper surface seems 
to have had almost no sanding before being painted...

There's damage to the rudder from where the prior owner struck part of 
his trailer trying to load the plane up... Easily fixable though

With that said, I have some questions for the community:

1) Can anyone help me identify which engine I have - both in CCs and 
manufacture (HAPI, Revmaster, roll-your-own-VW-conversion from an actual 
beetle)? All I can tell is that it's a VW-style with a diehl case & 
slick mag, and the carb is a POSA Supercarb (POSA + Mixture)...

2) The plane used to have a starter, now it has a block off plate... Do 
I have to buy the starter from Great Plains, or is there an 
alternate/common-automotive source for a starter that fits the Diehl case?

3) Is polyurethane resin (bondo-brand fiberglass resin) compatible with 
the adhesives commonly used to build the KR, or should I be thinking 
more in a boat-supply (eg West System - and if so which one/ones) vs 
auto-parts direction? I'm intending to fix the (small) glass/foam damage 
to the rudder using expanding foam & fiberglass cloth, and there are a 
few delaminations that need to be addressed Not having built the 
plane myself, I'm wondering what the consensus is on repair adhesives 
(epoxy vs polyurethane vs (something else))...

4) The crosspiece behind the instrument panel, shown in 
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/FE3B3553-orig.jpg, 
hits my knees...  I assume this is an important part of the 'boat' 
structure, so it can't just be removed.

I am wondering if replacing it with a taller board (and giving up some 
panel space), with 'arches' cut in it to accommodate a more comfortable 
flying position, would cause any problems... See 
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/KneeMod.png 
for sketch...


If you've gotten this far, thanks... I know it's a long post, but it's 1 
day worth of looking/planning/etc, then coming back to the computer to 
write it all up


KR> Opinion on O-290

2012-01-06 Thread Dave_A
O-290 is a bit big... Fuel burn of a 320 without the HP.

O-290s - specifically the GPU variety converted to aircraft use - were 
once used for the 'next size up from a KR' scratch-built birds (T-18, 
T-40, etc)...  Most of these designs, if built today, now use 320s. If 
you see an O-290 on ebay, most likely it either is or was an O-290G at 
one point (different mounts, 1 mag (2nd plug hole plugged with a bolt), 
and a special GPU sump and carbeurator)... The actual certified motors 
(And the 'right' certified parts) are somewhat rare now. Folks converted 
them to aircraft use by machining the mounts for 235-style conical 
mounts, adding a 2nd mag, and installing the appropriate aircraft 
sump/carb/etc (from a 235 or 320)

As the 'missing link' between the narrow-deck O-320 and the O235, it 
will take some parts from those motors, but also has some unique ones of 
it's own...

On 1/6/2012 4:18 PM, Rodger Nicolls wrote:
> Netters,
> What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S?
> (approximately 230-260 lbs dry weight and 125hp at 2600 and 130hp at 2800).
> The weight is about the same as the Corvair, but the horsepower is a bit
> more. What do you think?
>
> Rodger
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KR> Opinion on O-290

2012-01-06 Thread Larry&Sallie Flesner
At 03:26 PM 1/6/2012, you wrote:
>What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S?
++

If your KR is of reasonable weight, 100 hp is plenty of hp to fly 
well.  The 0-235 and 0-290 are similar in weight to the 0-200 but 
several components, like cylinders, are 50 percent higher in price 
then the 0-200, a high price to pay for a few extra ponies.  If you 
intend to go with a certified aircraft engine, the 0-200 is hard to 
beat.  Building to 650 pounds empty weight and not 725 to 750 pounds 
empty weight will more than make up for the 25 less 
horsepower.   Before laying your money down on a small Lycombing, 
check part prices in Trade-A-Plane, Aircraft Spruce, etc.

Larry Flesner



KR> Opinion on O-290...LONG post

2012-01-06 Thread Craig Williams
I thought about both the O-290 and O-235 engines but finally have settled on 
the O-200.  

It's
 been said here that some of the fastest KR's are running the O-200.  I 
am in the process of switching from the Corvair.  So, I have been doing 
alot of research on the O-200 mods.  Here a little of what I have found:



There are some fairly economical mods
which can yield tangible benefits.  First, up the compression ratio. 
The standard CR is 7.8:1 and upping it to 9.5:1 is a quick and easy mod. 
LyCon sells NFS pistons for about $800 set, http://www.lycon.com/
.  Klaus at Lightspeed also sells pistons, http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/
.  A slightly less expensive piston mod is to use a C85 piston in the
O200.  The C85 piston has a bit more crown than the 0200 and your can pick
up and easy 8-10 hp.

Balancing the crank, rods and pistons is a good
mod, but expect to pay about $1000- $1500 for this service.  Balancing, in
effect, lets the crank spin easier with less resultant stress and helps
preserve the bearings.  


Bumping the ignition timing from 28 to 30-32
degrees is also good for a couple of easy horsepower.  When setting up the
mags, the internal cam may need to be profiled to ensure that the spark is
symmetrical from lobe to lobe.  The Slick mags usually have a "cam
spread" of a few degrees.  For example the mag is set t fire at 28
degrees on cylinder #1, but when the crank is turned to fire the next cylinder,
the timing may be at 25 or 33 due to the unequal lift of the cam.  Sanding
the Slick cam to make it lift evenly will really smooth out the engine. 
An aftermarket electronic ignition, like Klaus' at Lightspeed will yield some
benefits at altitude. 


The O-200 35 deg stock cam actually works pretty well up
through 3200 rpm, but will definitely need to be re-indexed above 3400
rpm.  There are probably some exotic cams available, but, given the
relative bang for buck ratio, it is hard to beat a stock cam.  I think
that the C90 cam has a slightly different profile which may give a bit more
torque.  There is a slight difference between an original 1940's C90 cam
and the O200 cam.  I think that TCM may now sell the O200 cam as a
replacement for the C90.  At one point in the past, the C90 was optimized
to drive a wood prop, and due to the thickness of the prop, a bit more torque
was required.  


The C-90 and 0-200 both are.410"lift cams.
The C-90 is 245 degree duration on both Intake and Exhaust with a 24 degree
overlap.
The 0-200 is 259 degree duration on both Intake and Exhaust with a 35 degree
overlap.
The C-90 cam will produce it's peak torque at a lower rpm due to it's shorter
duration and overlap.
The 0-200 cam will produce more power up top.



Use a 4 into 4 exhaust.  See Jeff Scotts page:  
http://jscott.comlu.com/KR/exhaust.html

It seems to me the O-200 done right is a 100Hp engine and perfect fit for the 
KR2S.

My plan is to use the O-200 and do the following mods to get a solid 100Hp.

C-85 pistons, crank balance, vac pump removal, Ellison EFS-3A TBI, timing 
advance, custom exhaust.

The final mod might be a dry nitrous system to add 10% additional power on 
takeoff.  I really am intrigued by possible effects of a mild nitrous boost. 

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com










 From: Rodger Nicolls 
To: kr...@mylist.net 
Sent: Friday, January 6, 2012 3:18 PM
Subject: KR> Opinion on O-290

Netters,
What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S?
(approximately 230-260 lbs dry weight and 125hp at 2600 and 130hp at 2800).
The weight is about the same as the Corvair, but the horsepower is a bit
more. What do you think?

Rodger
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KR> Opinion on O-290

2012-01-06 Thread GaryH
There is a point of no return.  More HP still may not benefit in speed.
Build it light and clean.  Also, more HP is more $$$ both in initial cost
and fuel burn.
Good luck.
Gary


-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Rodger Nicolls
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 3:18 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Opinion on O-290

Netters,
What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S?
(approximately 230-260 lbs dry weight and 125hp at 2600 and 130hp at 2800).
The weight is about the same as the Corvair, but the horsepower is a bit
more. What do you think?

Rodger
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to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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KR> Opinion on O-290

2012-01-06 Thread Rodger Nicolls
Netters,
What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S?
(approximately 230-260 lbs dry weight and 125hp at 2600 and 130hp at 2800).
The weight is about the same as the Corvair, but the horsepower is a bit
more. What do you think?

Rodger


KR> Parts for sale

2012-01-06 Thread Daniel Root
Toward the end of December, I posted a several messages regarding a slew of 
parts for sale, and a snapfish link to view pictures.  I still have the Dan 
Diehl mains with obrien brakes and 5" azusa wheels, which are boxed and ready 
to ship.  I still have 
the engines as well, but I've not had time to test them as I'd planned. Thanks 
to those who bought my panel, wingtips and tank.  


KR> Billet Crankshaft Reply

2012-01-06 Thread michael a. TURNER Owner
How much are these billet crank shafts and will they do the job?---with or 
without a 5th bearing?  

Below is the reply that I got back from Corvair Specialties about the billet
crankshaft they are offering. Apparently I'm not the only one who inquired
about it.


Hello Barrett,


I've made an offer to a few flight Corvair owners that I will share with
you...if I can get 12 deposits of $500 each...I will get a run of stock
stroke crankshafts done to an agreed upon set of specifications...I
encourage you to talk it up.

Rgards,

Keith Wood
Keith Wood [ke...@corvairspecialties.com]



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KR> remove me from KR net please

2012-01-06 Thread Alan Wray

Thanks Eric, Ive found it nowHappy Flying Alan

> From: eric.pi...@starband.net
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 07:05:02 -0500
> Subject: Re: KR> remove me from KR net please
> 
> Only you can leave the KR net,just look at the bottom of this message on how 
> to leave.
> 
> Sent from my MOTOROLA ATRIX? 2 on AT&T
> 
> -Original message-
> From: Alan Wray 
> To: kr net use this one , krnet 
> , KR  Forum I 
> Sent: Tue, Jan 3, 2012 08:48:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: KR> remove me from KR net please
> 
> 
> HiSadly, I have sold my KR. Could someone remove me from the forum please or 
> tell me how to do it?ThanksAlan Wray   
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