KR> those pesky fiberglass splinters

[Peter Johnson]

Being involved with using the WEST system in large hull construction, I've 
found that one way to alleviate the itching is to get into as hot a shower 
as you can stand, and use a soft, plastic bristle brush and lots of soap to 
scrub as hard as you can.

Don't know if this so much removes the bities, but it does reduce their 
annoyance.


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario





Subject: KR> those pesky fiberglass splinters


> Okay, so maybe it's just me but it seems like anytime I have a 
> freshly-cured layup or any fiberglass with a ragged edge and I brush up 
> against it, I've got those itchy invisible glass splinters in my skin and 
> no easy way to see them or get rid of them.  Scratching and scraping only 
> breaks them off and leaves parts buried in the skin, still irritating and 
> itching.  Slapping a piece of duct tape on the area will sometimes pull up 
> most of them, but here's a way to get them all.
>
> Get some white or yellow wood glue (Elmer's, Titebond, whatever...NOT 
> epoxy and NOT super glue!)  Spread a layer of it around on the area where 
> the glass splinters are.  Let it dry and then gently peel it off, starting 
> at the edge.  If it's good and dry, the glue will peel off in one piece 
> and the splinters will come up with the dried glue.  Works for those tiny 
> wood splinters, too.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR

KR> Flaps & Spoilers

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Dan.

Are you going to install an electric contact/reaker switch on the flap 
screwjack?

Will you install a download spring to keep the spoilers down during slow 
flight?


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario


- Original Message - 
From: "bjoenunley via KRnet" 
To: "Dan via KRnet" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Flaps & Spoilers


>
>
>
> http://youtu.be/nGLz82kxDNY
>

KR> Conduit

[Peter Johnson]

It's also known as 'loom' if you're looking or asking for it.




Subject: Re: KR> Conduit




> Radio Shack has various sizes.  These are flexible and slit length-wise.
> http://www.radioshack.com/wire-ties-and-wraps#start=12=12

KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS - Pontiac Leaf Springs

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Bill.

I took a pair of the springs and tested them for flex.  They would have been 
a bit soft, but quite doable with some additional wrapping.

I wrote of the efforts some years ago, along with concerns for converting 
the springs to gear legs.  You'll have to search the archives.


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario




- Original Message - 
From: "ol' weirdo via KRnet" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 7:43 AM
Subject: KR> LANDING GEAR LEGS


> Has anyone made landing gear legs from the fiberglass rear springs that
> Pontiac used on vans a while ago?
>
> Bill Weir
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options 

KR> identify this brake cylinder?

[Peter Johnson via KRnet]

Would it be off a motorcycle?




- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford via KRnet" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:40 AM
Subject: KR> identify this brake cylinder?


> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
> 

KR> How many KRs in Canada

[Peter Johnson]

I'm in Kenora, Ontario.


- Original Message - 
From: "Global Solutions" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 12:08 AM
Subject: KR> How many KRs in Canada


> Who on this list is from Canada?
> Would be nice to arrange a get together in the warmer weather.
> Regards
> Stan
>
>
> ___
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> options 

KR> Type 4 Parts and Other Things Available

[Peter Johnson]

I don't think this showed up earlier.

You can contact me at

pjohn...@kmts.ca


Cheers!



> Hi Jose.
>
> I have a type 4 case, jugs, pistons, and crank that I'd like to get rid 
> of.
>
> I'm in Kenora, Ontario, Canada.
>
> I also have a Mazda 13B Wankel and a 3 cyl Firefly engine.  Anyone 
> interested in those?
>
> And, my KR-2Sexy is up for sale.  It's a KR-2S that's been widened, 
> deepened, lengthened, and curves added to the fuse and top moldings.  It's 
> a lovely aircraft.
>
> And...  I have four lengths of rough cut 1 1/8" x 6 1/4" x 18 ft long spar 
> grade sitka spruce.  These will plane out to 7/8" x 6".
>
> Peter Johnson
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Jose Fuentes" <jose.fuen...@gmail.com>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2011 7:35 PM
> Subject: KR> Type 4 Parts
>
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> Does anyone have an old Type 4 laying around with parts I could get?
>
> Also anyone have an DIELH assessory case and starter I can buy?
>
> Also looking for a GPA force 1 prop hub and bearing.
>
> Figured I would ask if anyone had anything from a failed or bad project.
>
> Thanks
>
> -- 
> Jose Fuentes
> Founding Father (one of and former Vice Prez) of Capital City.NET User's
> Group
> Former Microsoft MVP
> http://blogs.aspadvice.com/jfuentes
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> Type 4 Parts and Other Things

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Jose.

I have a type 4 case, jugs, pistons, and crank that I'd like to get rid of.

I'm in Kenora, Ontario, Canada.

I also have a Mazda 13B Wankel and a 3 cyl Firefly engine.  Anyone 
interested in those?

And, my KR-2Sexy is up for sale.  It's a KR-2S that's been widened, 
deepened, lengthened, and curves added to the fuse and top moldings.  It's a 
lovely aircraft.

And...  I have four lengths of rough cut 1 1/8" x 6 1/4" x 18 ft long spar 
grade sitka spruce.  These will plane out to 7/8" x 6".

Peter Johnson


- Original Message - 
From: "Jose Fuentes" <jose.fuen...@gmail.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2011 7:35 PM
Subject: KR> Type 4 Parts


Hi everyone,

Does anyone have an old Type 4 laying around with parts I could get?

Also anyone have an DIELH assessory case and starter I can buy?

Also looking for a GPA force 1 prop hub and bearing.

Figured I would ask if anyone had anything from a failed or bad project.

Thanks

-- 
Jose Fuentes
Founding Father (one of and former Vice Prez) of Capital City.NET User's
Group
Former Microsoft MVP
http://blogs.aspadvice.com/jfuentes
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KR> dual stick assembly

[Peter Johnson]

I haven't read all the posts about the dual stick assembly so this may have 
been mentioned...

Have you thought about installing a single, center stick and putting a 'T' 
or 'Y' on top?

The Zeniths have this and apparently there is almost no time required to 
adapt to it.

A thought.



PJ 

KR> Further to Coating With Epoxy

[Peter Johnson]

Since I posted yesterday about surface coating with epoxy I have been 
reminded that there are products on the market that are designed for this 
purpose.  International Paints 'Everdure', and Smith's 'Clear Penetrating 
Epoxy Sealer' are two.  These products are designed for coating without 
glass fiber reinforcement by remaining quite flexible after curing.  They 
are not structural adhesives!

Structural epoxies such as T-88, WEST, System Three etc, thinned or not, are 
not flexible when cured.  Without glass fiber cloth as a reinforcement in 
the layup they are unable to withstand tensile loads put upon them if the 
wood substrate should swell.



Cheers!


Peter

KR> FW: thinning t-88

[Peter Johnson]

For what it's worth, epoxy and wood could not be further from being good 
bedmates when coating wood with a thin layer of epoxy with no cloth.  Wood 
is indifferent to temperature changes but changes volume due to changes in 
humidity.  Epoxy is indifferent to humidity but happily changes hardness 
with temperature.  Cracks can begin to develop in the epoxy coat during 
periods of high temperature and humidity.

Once the epoxy coat is broken moisture enters the wood causing it to swell 
further causing further cracking.  It becomes a vicious cycle that ends when 
there is less wood in contact with the epoxy than not.  Rot will develop in 
the wet wood long before this lifting has occured.

Epoxy, with cloth or not, is not an impenetrable moisture barrier, it's 
close, but it's not 100%.

Coat the outside of your boat with epoxy and cloth.  The cloth will 
stabilize and strengthen the epoxy and the layup will only break where it's 
been sanded excessively or moisture has penetrated the wood from the 
opposite side.

Coat the interior of the boat with an oil or log house finish.  There are a 
number of such products on the market.  Clear Wood Preservative is a product 
that would work well in this application and is carried by all 
hardware/lumber stores.  These products are cheaper, lighter, and easier to 
apply than epoxy.  The one problem with using oil or similar is that you 
cannot bond anything to the wood once it's coated.

On surfaces that are already coated with just epoxy, keep an eye out for the 
development of fine cracks parallel with the wood grain.  If they develop, 
keep wetting the crack with gasline antifreeze/water remover (the cheap 
alcohol) for a number of days, allow the wood to dry for a couple of days, 
and treat the area with a thin product such as Clear Wood Preservative. 
Inspect closely to determine if the epoxy coat has lifted on either side of 
the crack.


Cheers!










Netters



I remember Dana Overall recently asked the KRnet what could be used to thin 
t-88 that he was planning to use to seal the wood on a boat that he was 
going to build.

What was the answer? I think I remember someone saying that acetone was what 
could be used? Am I correct or is there something else that can be used? I 
tried a search of the KRnet archive, but it came back with no matches.

I need to thin epoxy to coat the interior of my fuselage.

Thanks in advance for any info

Pete Klapp, building KR-2S N729PK,

Canton, Ohio







The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. 
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KR> Cvjetkovich CA-65 Skyfly

[Peter Johnson]

Hi John.

I'm quite familiar with the CA-65.  Though no I've not built one I have 
studied the plans in depth and talked with Anton Cvjetkovic a number of 
times.

The landing gear is quite functional.  To use it on a KR though would take 
some modification in-way of additional interior blocking.

Where did you buy the aircraft John?  I know of one fellow in Michigan who's 
selling his.

Thanks.


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario


- Original Message - 
From: "John Looby" <jlo...@eircom.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 6:32 AM
Subject: KR> Cvjetkovich CA-65 Skyfly


Does anyone know of this plane the Cvjetkovic CA-65. Need info on it as I 
have bought one. It has retract gear that might be usable on my KR2S. Or it 
might be repairable as well. Thanks in advance.

John Looby

-
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KR> floats for a Kr-2

[Peter Johnson]

A fellow I knew built a Jodel years ago, (they're all wood), and a set of 
wood floats.  Plans for both were available from Falconar Aviation in 
Edmonton.

He flew the package for years with nothing more than good inspections and 
regular maintenance.  Anytime he nicked the floats he'd repair them right 
away.  Regularly he inspected both the float and aircraft structures.  He 
used varnish in the interior of both the floats and aircraft.  I don't know 
what he used for adhesive.

The biggest complaint he had with the entire package was the capacity of the 
floats.  On the odd occasion that he buried the front of the floats he would 
always say that he wished he'd of enlarged them.

I'm trying to remember how long he flew it.  It had to be ten years at least 
before he lost his medical.

Falconar Aviation is now Falconaravia.  Google them, they're still in 
business.  Chris Falconar himself is now retired and the new business 
doesn't show the float plans.  Call them anyway and see what they say.

PS, My aerobatic instructor was the lead instructor at the time I was flying 
in the forces.  It's his SAL 2/3 Mustang that is pictured on the website. 
It's flying over Old Wives Lake south of Moose Jaw where the Snowbirds are 
stationed.  I got a couple of hours stick time in that machine and it 
changed my perception of flying forever!


Hope this helps.


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario

KR> floats for a Kr-2 - PS

[Peter Johnson]

I need to add to my previous email of a moment ago regarding Falconar Avia. 
I've just spent a few minutes perusing their website.  They are still 
offering the wood float plans.

And, Chris Falconar is also still involved with the business.  He's a HUGE! 
part of Canadian, and American, sport aviation.  Over the decades he's 
persued and promo'd conversions for the Corvair, the VW, and a couple of 
other engines including redrives.  He developed the HIPEC fabric covering 
method with eliminates the need for rib stitching.  He was extremly 
influential in making the various Flying Flea interations popular.  If you 
call him regarding the floats, do be sure to listen to him if he wants to 
talk.  He is a very interesting man.


PJ 

KR> Making Corner Blocks

[Peter Johnson]

Here's an idea that I found very helpful when cutting all the corner blocks: 
Make the blocks from 3/4" thick clear fir.  You'll find it much easier to 
cut the corner blocks using this material as you don't have to take the 
compound bevel into account.

The 1/8" additional thickness allows the blocks to be fit as needed.  When 
cured, the portion or edge of the block that is standing proud is easily 
sanded down flush with the surrounding material.

Hope this is of help to someone.


Peter Johnson
KR-2Sexy
Kenora, Ontario 

KR> Composite Van Spring Info

[Peter Johnson]

> Hi Kevin and Steve.
>
> A couple of years ago I persued the composite leaf springs on the Chevy 
> Astro/GMC Safari van. If you look in the archives under my name you will 
> find the results of my testing.
>
> The leaf spring will need to be "..cut down.." some yes, but in lenght 
> only. It will need some bi-directional cloth wrappings to provide 
> stability to the uni-dirctional fibers used in it, and to distribute 
> landing loads at attach points.
>
> To remove the rubber components that are bonded to the composite spring, 
> DO NOT USE HEAT!  If your destroying the bond that holds the rubber to the 
> composite, you're also destroying the bond in the composite.  It doesn't 
> take long with an 8" diameter, slow turning grinder and 40 or 36 grit disk 
> to remove what's needed.
>
> I'm planning on using the composite leaf spring on the nose gear of my 
> aircraft.  The nose gear alone retracts on mine and the width of the 
> spring will be an asset.
>
> Hope this helps.  Contact me if you'd like to discuss this more.
>
> Peter Johnson
> Kenora, Ontario
>
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: <tinya...@aol.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> carbon fibre tail spring
>
>
>> Chevrolet Astro vans (some not all) had rear leaf springs that were 
>> fiberglass.  I bought a set out of the salvage yard and plan to use them 
>> on a project for the main gear.  They will require some cutdown to work 
>> but it is easier to cut off then add on.
>> Kevin.
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: rsb...@hotmail.com
>> To: kr...@mylist.net
>> Sent: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 6:44 AM
>> Subject: Re: KR> carbon fibre tail spring
>>
>>
>> A while back we were talking about this on the VP list I think and 
>> someone was talking about a
>> some small cheap car equipped with composite rear leaf springs. From the 
>> way he talked they would be cheap and easy to come by and had more than 
>> strong enough. I think he cut them at the arch and bolted them on. I 
>> think I can dig it out if anyone's is interested.
>>
>> Might be worth looking into.
>>
>> Steve Bray
>> Jackson, Tennessee

KR> Re: Nose Retract System

[Peter Johnson]

To Darren and Robert who asked about my retracting nose wheel.

I don't have any photos of the arrangement, only autocad drawings.  It's a 
simple arrangement.  A hinge point is located beneath and just aft of the 
firewall.  The nose gear strut is a portion of the Safari/Astro van spring 
that just happens to almost match the curve of the bottom of the fuse. 
(Finding this out is what started me moving to design the retract system.)

The wheel is attached to the bottom of the spring with a common self 
aligning caster to ensure it remains streaming aft while in flight and while 
being retracted.  There is no manual steering.  The wheel retracts into a 
box that is located forward of the front spar.  The retract system is 
entirely manual, a simple push/pull system with a bellcrank.  To keep the 
nose spring strut from collapsing up and forward when the plane's on the 
ground, the top of the strut hits a bracket that is part of the retract 
hinge/mounting system.  There are tubes running from this point to the motor 
mount like the Diehl nose gear mount.  When retracted the hinge/mounting 
plate is hidden by the cowl, just a small portion of the castor is showing, 
and the leaf spring kinda blends in with the fuse bottom.  There will be 
simple, slit rubber 'doors' the close the wheel box when the wheel is 
retracted.

The reason I moved away from retracting the mains also is that the nose gear 
alone can produce 30% and 40% percent more drag than the mains combined. 
That's because it's dragging in the prop wash.

You should know that my KR-2S is 10% longer, 10% wider, and 10% deeper than 
stock.  I've got tons of room in it.  I'm 5-10/170 lbs, and a buddy and I 
sitting in the plane have to lean towards each other to touch shoulders. 
The box ahead of the spar that the nose wheel retracts into isn't even 
noticeable while entering and exiting the plane nor when sitting in it.

I redrew the fuse truss so the top longeron is flat now that it's in boat 
form and there are curves in the fuse sides, bottom, turtle and aft moldings 
that makes it kinda look like a Lancair.  The widest portion of the fuse is 
at the shoulder and carries forward a bit.

Please feel free to contact me atpjohn...@kmts.caif you'd like to 
chat about this more.


Peter

KR> Further Note to Eurethane Glue Use

[Peter Johnson]

One thing I've not seen mentioned in the discussion about polyurethane glues 
is the fact that they produce a 'flexible' joint.

If you take two thin pieces of wood and glue them together with epoxy the 
finished work becomes stiffer.  If you take two thin pieces of wood and glue 
them together with a poly adhesive you'll find the finished work is more 
flexible.  Glue two comparitive large pieces of work together and the 
difference is really apparent!

Epoxy by nature is hard when it cures, poly adhesives are not.  You'll 
understand this immediately when you go to scrape excess of the two off your 
work bench.

So, in my experience, use 'hard' glues on major components that will 
experience load and therefore possible flexing, and use 'flexible' glues for 
bonding small blocks, foam, templates etc in place.

Just my two cents worth.


PJ

KR> ?????

[Peter Johnson]

Hey Mark, did the cheque from that fellow you sold your airplane to finally 
clear?

PJ



- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Jones" 
To: "KR Net" 
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: KR> ?


> Sure is quietsomebody stir something up...start a rumor or 
> something.
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI  USA
> E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
> Visit my NEW
> KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at www.flykr2s.com
>
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> Any projects close to manitoba??

[Peter Johnson]

Hi John.

Hi tried emailing you direct, my note bounced back so I'm sending this to
you via the KRNet.

I'm in Kenora, Ontario and have a KR-2S that's stretched, widened, and
deepened.  I have two Corvair RH engines that I intend to use.

You can email me direct at the addy below.


Peter Johnson


mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca

KR> Importing project to Canada

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Chris.

I suggest you look at the 'MDRA Inspection Services' website.  If the info
you're looking for is not there then there will be a link to where you will
find it.


Peter Johnson
KR-2Sexy with a Corvair
Kenora, Ontario


mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
- Original Message -
From: "Chris Angela Barber" <aji...@hotmail.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 6:40 AM
Subject: KR> Importing project to Canada


> Does anyone know what's involved in buying a project from the U.S. and
> importing it into Canada to complete?  Or can anyone point me into the
right
> direction to look?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Barber
>
> _
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KR>Angle of Attack Indicator-Gauge Option

[Peter Johnson]

Just because this is something I'm familiar with I thought I'd add some
input to John's description of his friends homemade AoA's.

The use of a low speed ASI in the cockpit as a gauge is a good one.  Another
option that could be used is a mini magnahelic gauge.  These gauges are very
common in industry and are used for heating and ventilating pressure
readouts, induced air pressure measurement, etc.

The gauges come in a variety of 'high-low' capacitys and ranges.  Go to your
yellow pages and look under 'Industrial Supply' or 'Heating and Ventilating
Design'.  If the firms you call don't sell them directly, they can tell you
who does.

I would also like to say that of all the different homemade AoA's that I've
looked at and designed myself, I like this one the best, especially for it's
'tuning' capability.  Thanks for posting John.

Hope this is of help to someone.

Peter Johnson
KR-2Sexy with a Corvair
Kenora, Ontario
Canada

mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca


- Original Message -
From: "Martindale Family" <johnj...@chc.net.au>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Angle of attack indicator


> Folks
>
> A friend of mine designed his own AoA indicator. Simply a 1/2" tube,
sealed
> at the end with row of small holes drilled into it. The tube is mounted
out
> of the fuselage wall on the extended chord line 8"or so ahead of the
leading
> edge root and is parallel to it. He has the holes pointed down at right
> angles to the chord so that at zero AoA there is minimal pressure in the
> tube. As the wing/fuselage is rotated to provide an AoA so too does the
> tube, the holes present to the air flow and the pressure increases.  A
> reading is obtained on some sort of sensitive pressure gauge (maybe just a
> low speed ASI) that has it's face recalibrated in arbitary units (he just
> uses numbers 1 to 5 and has the dial named " partner's pressure level").
> The tube can be rotated to provide calibration (or desired absolute needle
> movement) and the readings noted as he approaches the stall. He flies this
> gauge on approach, more so than the ASI.
>
> John

KR>Angle of Attack Indicator-One Problem

[Peter Johnson]

I must apolgise for not seeing this sooner.

The AoA sensor that John described is a great idea, but it won't work (or is
not accurate) in the location he described it to be.

The AoA sensor must be out of the propwash flow!  "Duh!"

Such a tube could be easily mounted beneath the wing in a horizontal
fashion, with one hole on the bottom and one on the side or front.  Someone
has already posted a sketch of this layout in the past, and it's the way the
production models work.  Do a google search for 'reserve lift indicators'
and you will come to a site right away that has an image of their commercial
sensor.

Thanks for the info on the mini magnahelic Eduardo.


PJ
mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
- Original Message -
From: "Eduardo M. Iglesias" <emigles...@cpenet.com.ar>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: KR>Angle of Attack Indicator-Gauge Option


> It´s the Dwyer Minihelic II, serie 5000 from Dwyer Instruments Inc.
> e-mail i...@dwyer.inst.com  http//www.dwyer-inst.com
> If you want I have a draw of the sensor. It has two holes guided forward
and
> they has 90° between it, so that the differential pressure measured among
> them is shown in the instrument.
> Eduardo
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Peter Johnson" <pjohn...@voyageur.ca>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: KR>Angle of Attack Indicator-Gauge Option
>
>
> > Just because this is something I'm familiar with I thought I'd add some
> > input to John's description of his friends homemade AoA's.
> >
> > The use of a low speed ASI in the cockpit as a gauge is a good one.
> Another
> > option that could be used is a mini magnahelic gauge.  These gauges are
> very
> > common in industry and are used for heating and ventilating pressure
> > readouts, induced air pressure measurement, etc.
> >
> > The gauges come in a variety of 'high-low' capacitys and ranges.  Go to
> your
> > yellow pages and look under 'Industrial Supply' or 'Heating and
> Ventilating
> > Design'.  If the firms you call don't sell them directly, they can tell
> you
> > who does.
> >
> > I would also like to say that of all the different homemade AoA's that
> I've
> > looked at and designed myself, I like this one the best, especially for
> it's
> > 'tuning' capability.  Thanks for posting John.
> >
> > Hope this is of help to someone.
> >
> > Peter Johnson
> > KR-2Sexy with a Corvair
> > Kenora, Ontario
> > Canada
> >
> > mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Martindale Family" <johnj...@chc.net.au>
> > To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 2:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: KR>Angle of attack indicator
> >
> >
> > > Folks
> > >
> > > A friend of mine designed his own AoA indicator. Simply a 1/2" tube,
> > sealed
> > > at the end with row of small holes drilled into it. The tube is
mounted
> > out
> > > of the fuselage wall on the extended chord line 8"or so ahead of the
> > leading
> > > edge root and is parallel to it. He has the holes pointed down at
right
> > > angles to the chord so that at zero AoA there is minimal pressure in
the
> > > tube. As the wing/fuselage is rotated to provide an AoA so too does
the
> > > tube, the holes present to the air flow and the pressure increases.  A
> > > reading is obtained on some sort of sensitive pressure gauge (maybe
just
> a
> > > low speed ASI) that has it's face recalibrated in arbitary units (he
> just
> > > uses numbers 1 to 5 and has the dial named " partner's pressure
level").
> > > The tube can be rotated to provide calibration (or desired absolute
> needle
> > > movement) and the readings noted as he approaches the stall. He flies
> this
> > > gauge on approach, more so than the ASI.
> > >
> > > John
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > ---
> > [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-)

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Dana.

Good move deciding on using a wankel.  Your description of them being
'bullet proof' is absolute!  And 180 hp topsnaturally asperated in somethng
the size of a large breadbox IS impressive!

I got into the rotary about 6 years ago, bought and rebuilt one, and am
amazed that there are not more in vehicles and airplanes!  I think auto
dealers don't like them because of the minimum service required after sales.

Enjoy the rebuild, it's not like anything you've rebuilt before. But then
you know that already, like you said, no valves, no cams, no springs, no
pins, no bunch of bearings, no heads, no jugs...  Heck, it's almost NO fun
if you're a gearhead!



Will you be using the airconditioning condensers for cooling?
Keep us abreast.
mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca

KR>Bowden cables

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Russ.

I'm going to use Teleflex, or Morse cables for the elevator and aileron
controls on my aircraft.  I'm in Kenora, Ontario and here on Lake of the
Woods we've had experience with the 'push-pull' cables for years in the
marine industry.  When installed properly they are a maintenance free item.

The one issue that I am going to look into for my own curiosity is the
weight difference between a Morse cable and a
pushrod/bellcrank/pushrodorcable/bellcrank assembly.  IMO the difference is
going to be neglibible and quite acceptable for the speed and ease of
installation of the Teleflex or Morse cables.

Dial into the net and look for 'Teleflex' or 'Morse' Controls and you will
find the technical info.  I think it's the 44C cable that I will be using.
It has the 1/4" diameter ends with the bulkhead fittings.

Hope this helps Russ.

Peter Johnson
KR-2S stretched, widened, deepened with a Corvair

mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
- Original Message -
From: "francis fenlason" <asir...@702com.net>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 9:55 AM
Subject: RE: KR>Bowden cables


>
> Is anyone out thee using Bowden cables for their control linkages? If
> so, are their pictures of "how to" on the net?  It seems like it would
> be a lot less complicated, but would like to know if someone has tried
> it and it didn't work.
> Thanks Russ Breckenridge,mn
> ___
>
>
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Looking for Wood

[Peter Johnson]

Hi David.

Where are you located?   I'm in Kenora, Ontario and can pick and chose
between local white and pine, and white cedar at the local saw mills.  I've
completed a couple of boat projects using local woods and am using a lot of
local white pine in my KR.

Email me direct if you want.


Peter Johnson
Kenora, Ontario
mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
- Original Message -
From: "David Mikesell" <skyguy...@skyguynca.com>
To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 9:27 PM
Subject: KR>Looking for Wood


Okay guys and gals, I am getting ready to start on my next project ..but
I am looking for a source to buy  Northern White Pine, Hemlock, or Fir  for
the spars and fuselage ...any sources that you have would be greatly
appreciated. I have tried all the local places and the only thing around
here in a 2 hour drive has only #1, which has knots in it and I need long
runs for the spars, I do not wish to make scarfs if I don't have to. Any way
thanks for the help.


David Mikesell
skyguy...@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Fuselage sides

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Gavin.

Just food for thought, but have you looked in the archives to review the
option of using Chev composite leaf springs for your KR?

I bought mine for $35 CDN, prep'ed them, tested them, and posted the results
about two years ago.  The end result a set of legs with sufficient capacity
and flexure.

Hope this is of help Gavin.  If you want to, please email me at the addy
below.


Peter Johnson
KR-2Sexy with a Corvair
Kenora, Ontario


mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca
- Original Message -
From: "Gavin Donohoe" <gavinandlou...@bigpond.com>
To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 5:01 AM
Subject: KR>Fuselage sides


> Hi again,
> Things are progressing fairly quickly here, though I've looked hard I
can't seem to work out wether the fuselage sides and bottom are eventually
covered with glass !! Doesn't seem to say anywhere.  Help???
> Has anyone formed their own gear legs from multiple lay-ups of glass ? If
so how was it done ?
>
> Gav
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.521 / Virus Database: 319 - Release Date: 23/09/2003
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Glue joints

[Peter Johnson]

Hi Gavin.

Definetly clean up excess glue before it sets up.  If you wait till it cures
and then chip if off, it's not only a lot of hard work, messy when you're
finished, and you run the risk of shattering the joint!

As for your spar, laminate it up in 1/4" sections or so.  1" thick laminates
would be too thick and you would have spring back after you pulled the
finished layup off the form.


mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca


> Hi all,
> I've started to lay the timber out ready for gluing the fuselage sides,
and was wondering, what's the best way to clean up excess glue from the
joints?? Am I better to wipe it off while  still wet? or am I better to let
it dry  and chip it off? Which is less messy and most successful?
>
>   Gavin
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 11/09/2003
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Stratomaster Glass Panels

[Peter Johnson]

Has anyone looked at the Stratomaster line of glass panels?  Does anyone
have any experience with them?

They look like a heck of deal...!


mailto:pjohn...@voyageur.ca