KR> In need of a propeller
Brad. Ed Sterba carved one just like that for my O-290, 64x74. Thanks, Rodger > Lyc. 0-290 Engine > 65" diameter x 75" pitch.
KR> Piston Rings
Bob, For O-290 rings, try Engine Components International, 1-800-ECi-2FLY(1-800-324-2359), 210-820-8101 www.eci.aero. Or try www.aeroinstock.com. There are also some airboaters in Florida still using the O-290. Try a search on the internet for that one. For the engine mount bushings I ordered the polyurethane bushings from Revmaster. A set of 8 bushings for $40! http://revmasteraviation.com/?p=189#more-189 Best of luck! Rodger KR2S with O-290-D
KR> Turbocharger
You might want to take a look at this article on the RV website about horsepower/altitude/flutter/etc. when considering a turbo. https://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/hp_limts.pdf Rodger
KR> Gathering/Rental
Evans, I arrive on Friday (9/4) at actually 05:30am (PDX) and depart on Sunday (9/6) at 20:50pm. I do have a rental car on reserve, but apparently you found a better deal than mine-$167). My cell number is 907-382-0512 if you want to discuss some arrangement (possibly getting one car and adding a second driver--you pick it up Thursday night and then I drop it off Sunday afternoon). Dan, It will be good to see you again and I owe you for your hospitality. So don't worry, we'll get you back and forth. I still plan on camping at the airfield. Rodger N292AK (reserved)
KR> Gear Legs
By chance, does anyone have a set of Diehl brackets for sale? Thanks, Rodger
KR> Carb temp sensor
Paul, That's what I was looking for. Thanks, Rodger > On Oct 19, 2014, at 2:16 AM, Paul & Karen Smith > wrote: > > Try this. > https://www.mcico.com/assets/products/InstallationManuals/B-5revF_im.pdf > Paul. >
KR> Carb temp sensor
Where would you place the carb temp sensor (type K) in an MA-3SPA carb? I notice a lead plugged orifice in the main body (bowl) just under the Venturi and another whole in the throttle place assembly just under the throttle plate. I assume I must melt the lead out and should find a threaded hole for the sensor. Ideas/opinions? Thanks Rodger
KR> George McHenry's KR2S
My typo--O-235. Jeff, I look forward to meeting you one of these days, as well as the many KR fans on this site. I follow these emails every day--have been since July 2005 when I purchased my plans and began the building process. Jeff, your comments, advice, and experiences motivate those of us still building. Thanks, Rodger
KR> Test
Out of school for a few weeks and dedicating time to finish canopy, front deck, sealing fuel tanks, and finishing wings. Hopefully starting on engine mount and cowling before work starts back up, and weather permitting. Rodger Nicolls > On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Lee Van Dyke wrote: > > Been busy working on the plane this weekend, any updates on other planes?
KR> Canopy and Spraylat
Hello everyone, I just received my new canopy from Todd's today. It's been quite an eerie nice today. First when I went to the trucking company to pick it up, I was told the box was "crushed and punctured"! I dismantled the box on the dock before accepting the shipment, but much to my relief, the canopy was undamaged. And this was after traveling by truck from Florida to Alaska during the last three weeks of storms out east. So now the Spraylat. After spending almost $600 on shipping, I started looking for Spraylat to protect this piece of art. It is no where to be found, but I found a new type of painters tape, 3M brand Deluxe Trim tape for Delicate Surfaces. It's advertised to peel off easily even after 60 days. So I laid 3 rolls of 2" tape on the inside and out. It looked great. I decided to take a break at that time because I was getting a headache, then my wife came home. She asked what the smell was, and of course I didn't know what she was asking about until I left the living room, where I was working on the canopy. Come to find out, the tape was off gassing some chemicals very toxic to both of us which had, by this time, given me a migraine. I later removed the tape and covered the canopy with plain white contact paper. I'm much happier now and the headache is gradually going away. Now to figure out how to install this canopy. Rodger Nicolls Anchorage, Alaska
KR> Thermal Insulating Paint
Does anyone have any experience/or/opinion of insulating paint? I found this website http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html as well as others, referring to NASA research using Ceramic microspheres, not glass balloons, mixed in paint. The thought is, this may help in UV and thermal protection, giving more possibilities for painting. Your comments are requested. Rodger
KR> Canopy
Just ordered the Todd's Canopy through Aircraft Spruce. Shipping to Alaska on this item is just about as much as the canopy! ouch! Rodger
KR> Staples
After pulling the staples with the tape/string you placed under the staples, try a steam iron over the holes. They seal up and only require light sanding-no filling. If you didn't place the tape/string under the staples and used a screwdriver to pry them out, then you will need to fill the dents with micro. Rodger Anchorage, Alaska
KR> Had a Nooner
Mark J., How many hours do you have on Dan's Fifth Bearing now? Rodger I still plan on using Dan's Fifth Bearing!! Sent from my iPhone On Jan 10, 2012, at 12:21 PM, "Mark Jones" <flyk...@charter.net> wrote: > What a beautiful day here in Wisconsin. Clear blue skies with the temp at 47 > degrees. Feels like summer out there. Needless to say I could not pass up > this opportunity to fly. So I went to the airport and had a nooner. The winds > were right down the runway at 11 mph. I hit a few minor bumps but when I > passed through 3000' it was as smooth as glass. I climbed on up to 5000', sat > back and enjoyed the ride. Forty five minutes later I decided I had better > get back to work so I reluctantly brought her back to Earth. That may be the > last flight for a while as temps will be only a high of 17 degrees by > Thursday and snow is once again a possibility. Love my KR and love flying it. > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Stevens Point, WI > E-mail: flyk...@charter.net > Web: www.flykr2s.com > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Opinion on O-290
Netters, What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S? (approximately 230-260 lbs dry weight and 125hp at 2600 and 130hp at 2800). The weight is about the same as the Corvair, but the horsepower is a bit more. What do you think? Rodger
KR> Gathering update / 211LF update
Larry wrote: We now have Gathering hats and shirts being proudly worn as > far away as Canada, New Zealand, and Brazil. Make sure you puff your > chest a bit when wearing them out in public. :-) Larry, As far North as Alaska!!! Rodger Anchorage, Alaska
KR> Re: Proseal help?
Thanks all, I think I found my answer. According to an article on Van's website, it will take up to 3-4 days for it to cure tack free and another 2-3 days for it to fully cure. What a pain! Note to self: Get tanks welded on next project. Rodger Sent from my iPhone On Nov 20, 2011, at 11:27 AM, Rodger <bandenok...@gmail.com> wrote: > FYI: I mixed the entire 1 pint resin and hardener (100/10 mixture) while > working in about 65 degrees ambient temp. > Rodger > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 20, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Rodger <bandenok...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Netters, >> Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey tar >> like mess? I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not set >> up. I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do to >> fix this? >> Rodger >> bandenok...@gmail.com >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Re: Proseal help?
FYI: I mixed the entire 1 pint resin and hardener (100/10 mixture) while working in about 65 degrees ambient temp. Rodger Sent from my iPhone On Nov 20, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Rodger <bandenok...@gmail.com> wrote: > Netters, > Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey tar > like mess? I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not set > up. I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do to > fix this? > Rodger > bandenok...@gmail.com > > > Sent from my iPhone
KR> Proseal help?
Netters, Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey tar like mess? I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not set up. I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do to fix this? Rodger bandenok...@gmail.com Sent from my iPhone
KR> RE: Fuel tank pick up and vent
Joe, Thank you. That's kinda what I was thinking for the vent. Rodger On Nov 17, 2011, at 8:37 PM, "Joe Beyer" <joe2387...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> I'm about ready to close up my aluminum wing fuel tanks and need some > advice on the pick up and vent. These tanks are very similar to those on > Mark Jones' website. >> 1: I'm thinking of eliminating the pick up tube and installing the AN > fitting, with a finger screen attached, right near the bottom of the tank. I > think this setup would prevent the possibility of a loose pick up tube > falling off inside the tank. >> 2: I'm installing the filler/ cap toward the wing tip end of the tank. > What are your thought of a simple 1/4" tube attached on the filler neck > pointing toward the airstream above the wing like the header tank design in > the KR plans? Or should I attach the tube to the filler neck and route it > out the bottom of the wing? Which would perform better? Pro and cons? >> Your thoughts and ideas are welcomed. >> >> Rodger Nicolls >> bandenok...@gmail.com >> >> Blue skies! > > > I would install the vent line into the lower skin, extend it through the > underside pointing downward. Cut a 50deg. angle in the tube on the foreword > face to give you positive air flow. I did this on my composite tank, > extending the vent tube through the firewall and downward with that angle. I > didn't want a ram air effect that pressurizes the tank with increased > airspeed speed. Also I attached a little screen to the bottom of the vent. > > Joe > > Valley View, Ore. > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Fuel tank pick up and vent
> I'm about ready to close up my aluminum wing fuel tanks and need some advice > on the pick up and vent. These tanks are very similar to those on Mark Jones' > website. > 1: I'm thinking of eliminating the pick up tube and installing the AN > fitting, with a finger screen attached, right near the bottom of the tank. I > think this setup would prevent the possibility of a loose pick up tube > falling off inside the tank. > 2: I'm installing the filler/ cap toward the wing tip end of the tank. What > are your thought of a simple 1/4" tube attached on the filler neck pointing > toward the airstream above the wing like the header tank design in the KR > plans? Or should I attach the tube to the filler neck and route it out the > bottom of the wing? Which would perform better? Pro and cons? > Your thoughts and ideas are welcomed. > > Rodger Nicolls > bandenok...@gmail.com > > Blue skies!
KR> Fuel tank sealer
Has anyone had experience with Red-Kote fuel tank liner in an aluminum fuel tank? I does state that "Gasoline and additives should not contain more than 10% methanol (methyl alcohol)"; does anyone see a problem with using this product in a KR running a Corvair on 100LL or pump gas? Here is the link to the product at O'Reilly (Which happens to be available here in Anchorage. POR-15 is not available here.) http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAM0/REDKOTE.oap?ck=Search_N2392_-1_3107=N2392=C0126 Thank you for your input, Rodger Nicolls Anchorage, Alaska "Building aluminum wing tanks at present"
KR> Re: Hemlock
I must also add that the fuselage, spars and tail feathers were built over two years ago (thus the current infestation of hemlock doesn't effect my project) and they are still as straight and true as the day they were built. Although hemlock is approximately 10% heavier than sitka spruce, it only adds about 10 to at the most 15 lbs overall, and that includes the extra 22" added to the length of the fuselage. With the input received from the KR list, I am going with the largest split flaps possible and will continue to keep things simple and light, no fancy extras. On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Rodger Nicolls <bandenok...@gmail.com>wrote: > Pat, > I'm using hand selected western hemlock with better than 1:15 grain > deviation, > which, according to AC 43.13-1B, can be used as a direct replacement for > Sitka Spruce.. > > Rodger >
KR> Composite Gear Legs
|Pat wrote: I did make a gear spring as you describe, 55 layers in all of Bid and uni, came out to 7/8" thick and weighed in 20% heavier than the cessna spring I was copying and was not as stiff. I was surprised. Perhaps I used too much resin.| I laminated the the 78 layers for the gear legs on a cool day, about 50F. It took 5 hours to wet out each layer individually and press them into the mold. After curing, I took them to a commercial composite aircraft fabricator in town. He was impressed at how much less resin I used than he had anticipated. (Each layer was thoroughly wetted out.) I then wrapped them with BID, installed the brake line tubing and wrapped that. They are stiff, but with 200lbs they bend about 1/8", and are light, approximately 4.3lbs each at 29" in length. I still need to test them with more weight. As I cut out each leg from the single mold, 8"x30" I inspected to insure there were no air pockets. I will post pictures when I get a website setup. Rodger
KR> Hemlock
Pat, I'm using hand selected western hemlock with better than 1:15 grain deviation, which, according to AC 43.13-1B, can be used as a direct replacement for Sitka Spruce.. Rodger
KR> Flap and belly board combination.
Phil and Larry, Thank you for the replies. I am looking at dropping the stall/landing speed, increasing the visibility, and contending with a heavier empty weight (using hemlock, 10% heavier than spruce, with extended fuselage). I have moved the controls in front of the rear spar and plan to use the entire area behind the spar for the flaps. On anther note: I completed building my gear legs: 50 layers S-glass-BID and 38 layers S-glass-UNI, with a total compressed/cured thickness of .80". Now I just need to get the mount welded. If anyone is interested in the story (with pictures) of an experimental Cub being destroyed by a calving glacier, let me know and I'll forward those to you. It's a shame that after spending all that time on a lovely project to see it lost in a matter of seconds. I will continue to build. Thanks, Rodger
KR> Re: Repost: Flap and belly board combination
Third times a charm or three strikes you're out. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 1, 2011, at 9:33 PM, Rodger <bandenok...@gmail.com> wrote: > I realize I sent this while everyone was at Oshkosh, and I got no responses, > so... Here's the original: > >> During the annual Alaska Aviation Trade Show held in April I was impressed >> with the full length flap on the Mustang II (see the forth add down on this >> page for an example: >> http://www.barnstormers.com/Experimental,%20Mustang%20Classifieds.htm ). Has >> anyone considered doing something similar on the KR? I'm about to work on >> the flaps and was thinking of doing split flaps (approximately 11" x 21" on >> each side) and am possibly considering adding an integrated small belly >> board of 9" x 30". These could be operated independently or jointly. >> Thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated. >> >> Enjoy Oshkosh!! >> >> Rodger Nicolls >> bandenok...@gmail.com
KR> Repost: Flap and belly board combination
I realize I sent this while everyone was at Oshkosh, and I got no responses, so... Here's the original: > During the annual Alaska Aviation Trade Show held in April I was impressed > with the full length flap on the Mustang II (see the forth add down on this > page for an example: > http://www.barnstormers.com/Experimental,%20Mustang%20Classifieds.htm ). Has > anyone considered doing something similar on the KR? I'm about to work on > the flaps and was thinking of doing split flaps (approximately 11" x 21" on > each side) and am possibly considering adding an integrated small belly board > of 9" x 30". These could be operated independently or jointly. Thoughts and > opinions would be greatly appreciated. > > Enjoy Oshkosh!! > > Rodger Nicolls > bandenok...@gmail.com
KR> Flap and belly board combination
During the annual Alaska Aviation Trade Show held in April I was impressed with the full length flap on the Mustang II (see the forth add down on this page for an example: http://www.barnstormers.com/Experimental,%20Mustang%20Classifieds.htm ). Has anyone considered doing something similar on the KR? I'm about to work on the flaps and was thinking of doing split flaps (approximately 11" x 21" on each side) and am possibly considering adding an integrated small belly board of 9" x 30". These could be operated independently or jointly. Thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated. Enjoy Oshkosh!! Rodger Nicolls bandenok...@gmail.com
KR> Young Eagles
Joe, When I was in the third grade I had the privilege of hearing an Air Force pilot come to our mixed Third/Fourth grade class and teach us about aerodynamics. Even at that age, I understood the Bernoulli principle and the principles of flight from the way in which he presented it. Since then I have a keen interest in aviation. As a teacher and father of five, I want to thank you for taking the time to visit and share your knowledge with students in school. It's the adult connections kids make that help them succeed in life. Kudos to Joe and to all of you who share with the upcoming generation. Rodger Nicolls KR2S #1212 Anchorage, Alaska
KR> Another KR/Corvair Newbie!
Hello everyone, I've been watching, reading and learning for the last year from each of you on KRnet. I haven't got a web site for my construction project, but I just wanted to get the word out that I have begun to gather materials for construction of KR2S #1212 in Anchorage, Alaska. I'm a high school educator and part time skydiver with a background in stock car racing and auto and diesel repair. I did a lot of VWs when I was younger and have been interested in constructing the KR for some time. I even bought a set of plans in the early 80s, which got lost in one of my overseas moves in the military. Last summer I bought a new set of plans, #1212, and today my two sons and I brought home two 1966 110hp Corvairs (the last two in the junk yard in the state as far I can gather). I paid $400 for the two, serials RH-auto and RD-manual, which I feel is a deal that doesn't involve shipping to Alaska. They are complete, minus the fan belt. (Does anyone need some Corvair carbs, alternators, starter, or torque converter?) I took some pictures of the engines (wish I had taken some pictures of the cars I found them in, buried under a pile of station wagons and birch trees in the back forty!). I will post the pictures when I get a chance to build a web page. The RD has headers and the RH has aluminum valve covers which should polish up nicely (IECO brand--an out-of-business high performance company that produced parts for heads and intake systems). It will be interesting to see what I find inside each. I'm planning on stretching and widening the fuselage, and use hemlock. I've toyed with the idea of cutting a spruce tree and having it cut up, but that's going a bit far for this plans built project (lol). Looking forward to being a part of the community. Rodger Nicolls
